Project Screamer - '72 GMC K2500 + DD 4-53T

[superduty_59]

Awesome metal work!

[nsulacountry]

I don't know where to begin. WOW!

I am subscribed to this one!

CT

[burnitg]

I've been working on the transmission "hump".

The first step was to split it down the middle.



Then I fabricated supports for the rear of the hump. The rear had to be raised to clear the air hoses and the interlock valve for the transmission range shift.



It all clears!



Here's the hump tacked together and ready for welding. I will cut the hole for the transfer case shift lever and boot after I mount the transfer case and fabricate the linkage.



Determining the location for the transfer case shift lever will be a challenge since the range shift interlock valve is in the spot that I would like to use for the transfer case shift lever.

[Dieselwrencher]

That turned out really nice. It's always something isn't it?

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That turned out really nice. It's always something isn't it?

Yes, there is always something. In my experience, it is linkage. The linkage for the transfer case shift, clutch and throttle on this project are all going to be interesting...

[Average Joe]

Very cool project and nice work!!! I digg the sound of those old Detroits.

[burnitg]

A new definition of tedious...

I finally finished the weld-out and grinding of the welds for the firewall and high hump. Next to sanding plastic filler, grinding welds and finding/filling pinholes has to be the most tedious job in automotive repair.

Here's the firewall after the repairs:



Here's the inside driver's side:



Here's the inside passenger's side:



Here's the hump:



I will fill the weld seams with body filler and smooth them down after the cab is stripped and primed. The inside of the cab floorboards and firewall will be coated with Lizard Skin so that won't be a big deal. The engine side of the firewall will be visible.

I'm delighted to have that out of the way and have moved on to the transfer case. Here it is mocked-up in position:



Next I will have to make the cross member and brackets to support it. I am concerned that the front drive shaft may interfere with the flywheel housing at full articulation. If it does, I will have to have a carrier bearing and support or a suspension lift in addition to the body lift. I'm hoping that neither will be required...

[1947ratrod]

do you have a part number for the yoke for the rto6610 I'm working on a same set up I have a 1963 k20 with a 4-53n turn in to a turbo motor I have a 1 ton frame for mine with a Dana 60 for the front and a aam rear end out of a chevy 2002 diesel truck

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by 1947ratrod

do you have a part number for the yoke for the rto6610 I'm working on a same set up I have a 1963 k20 with a 4-53n turn in to a turbo motor I have a 1 ton frame for mine with a Dana 60 for the front and a aam rear end out of a chevy 2002 diesel truck

1947Ratrod: Sounds like a great build! The Fuller part number for the 1610 size output flange (companion flange) is 86734.

Fuller has a great website with manuals, illustrated parts lists, etc.
http://www.roadranger.com/rr/Custome...eratureCenter/
I recommend that you download the service manual for the RT/RTO-6610 (TRSM0515) and the illustrated parts list. They sure have helped me a lot.

Parts for our transmissions are readily available except for the overdrive conversion kit which I had a little trouble finding.

[1947ratrod]

thanks I found a few of the overdrive kits all depends what you want to pay for them

[burnitg]

Not much work on the truck lately.

I received and installed a new gear driven starter. The OEM starter is enormous and very heavy. I had difficulty getting it installed with just the engine and frame so I can't imagine having to remove/install it with the body on (without the ability to pull from above). The new starter clears everything and turns the engine over - success!



I received my restored & modified instrument cluster from Redline Gauge and Clock Repair. John did a fantastic job on it. It is gorgeous!

Here's the front:



Here's the rear:



After some measurement and trial fitting, I have determined that I will need a 2" suspension lift in addition to the 2" body lift. The 4-53 is so tall and wide at the rear that I will need the lift for all the hard parts to clear at full suspension articulation. The thought of raising the truck even higher put me into a funk and I decided to work on other things for a while.

I assembled my new blast cabinet from Eastwood. It took a couple of days - it only has 150 or so bolts...



I fixed my snow plow. One of the casters came loose and got very bent. I received the new part this week and got it back together. We live at 9000' and usually get snow into May. It's good to have the plow back to 100%

[ryanroo]

i think 4" will still be a managable truck. most newer rigs are much taller than that stock.

I have snow plow envy. i found a 'Mog on CL the other day and had to stop myself. i would LOVE a 404.

i worked on this bad boy several years ago. it was getting outfitted with a big 'blower and we put the bank vault worth of HID's on it for the customer. what a riot that thing was.

[burnitg]

Nice U-500. I'll bet it is a real beast.

I understand that the 404's are very good off road. The suspension and frame are both very compliant. My 406 is really a tractor disguised as a truck. It is quite heavy (7500 lbs empty) and the suspension is very stiff - it has to be, the plow weighs 3500 lbs. It would suck on the rocks.

I got this Mog pretty cheap because the cab was really rusty. I learned how to make my own sheet metal repair panels while fixing it - no one manufactures replacement panels.

[Dieselwrencher]

That's a sweet plow rig! These trucks look just right at 4". A 285 tire would look good too and still make it appear stockish. Those gear reduction starters sure are nice to help save on room, plus the weight. Nice addition.

[burnitg]

A cross member for the NP-205.

I have completed the cross member for the NP-205.

Here's the transfer case mocked into position:



I made several versions of the cross supports in cardboard. I'm a big fan of making templates. Cardboard is much cheaper and easier to cut than 1/4" steel plate.



Here's the completed cross member. The cross supports and braces are 1/4" plate. The diaphragms on the top are 12 ga sheet metal.





The front output is lower than I would like. I thought about clocking it up; but, I am afraid that clocking it up would cause lubrication problems and I am sure that it would interfere with the 4" exhaust that I have planned.



I took a look at the divorced transfer case for my 1959 Ford F-100. It hangs down much lower to the point that the front drive shaft is nearly horizontal. That gave me some encouragement. I've had that truck over stumps and rocks all around our ranch without any problems. This GMC won't be going off road; but, one never knows...

At any rate, it is what it is. Now I will start work on a skid plate...

I have been looking for a 4" universal exhaust kit. I was hoping that someone would make a kit with a number of mandrel bends like the smaller diameter ones that are made by all the major aftermarket manufacturers for hot rods. So far no luck. What have you done for your exhaust?

BTW - It's a good thing I got the plow fixed. We got 2 feet of snow about 3 days after I completed the repair.

[ryanroo]

looking great!

[brimc]

The transfer case looks great. I am a big fan of the cardboard templates too. Are you bolting it in on the top and bottom of the frame channel or from the sides? It is little hard to tell in the pictures. Saving this for reference if I go this way on mine.

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by brimc

The transfer case looks great. I am a big fan of the cardboard templates too. Are you bolting it in on the top and bottom of the frame channel or from the sides? It is little hard to tell in the pictures. Saving this for reference if I go this way on mine.

Brian:

I have attached the cross member to the top and bottom flanges with 3/8" bolts like the original cross member. I thought that bolting to the flange would provide the greatest resistance to twisting of the frame rails.

Burnett

[brimc]

Originally Posted by burnitg

Brian:

I have attached the cross member to the top and bottom flanges with 3/8" bolts like the original cross member. I thought that bolting to the flange would provide the greatest resistance to twisting of the frame rails.

Burnett

Cool. Are you able to remove it if needed? It looks like it is welded solid and it would be hard to twist it enough to clear the rails.

[burnitg]

Yes, it can be removed. I tacked it together in place, removed it to weld it and then reinstalled it.

[ryanroo]

i really like watching your progress! its obvious that you plan out your mods well and execute the plan very well!

i always feel so untidy when i see your pics too! i envy your work space almost as much as the snow plow!

[burnitg]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

i really like watching your progress! its obvious that you plan out your mods well and execute the plan very well!

i always feel so untidy when i see your pics too! i envy your work space almost as much as the snow plow!

Thanks for the complement Ryan. I aspire to weld as well as you some day!

When my wife and I retired to her family ranch here in CO, I decided to build a dedicated workshop. With the climate here, I could not see trying to work in the garage/driveway like I had for 25 years in CA. I love working in my shop. I finally have the room and (some of) the tools required to do every job right.

[burnitg]

Brackets are a bother!

One of the great things about a project like this one is that there is always something different for me to do. I got tired of working on the sheet metal so I switched to the cross member for the transfer case, when I got tired of working on that, I decided to make the brackets to mount the A/C compressor and power steering pump to the engine.

I didn't realize how much time it would take to make these brackets! I had hoped to use at least part of the brackets from the truck that I pulled the engine from; but, that was not to be. There was a lot more room in the engine bay of the old C-70 and the brackets came out too far. So I had to start from scratch.

Here's the bracket for the A/C compressor:





Here's the compressor mounted:





The power steering pump is just temped in, I will need to move it down so that the A/C compressor belt clears the pulley.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work on the A/C bracket. I know what you mean on how much time you can get wrapped up in them. Getting them in line and true can be a bear.

[ryanroo]

engine accessory bracketry is always fun stuff!

the joint in denver is Interstate Turbo and supply, i seem to have left the invoice somewhere farther away from my computer than is reasonable to walk while my coffee is still warm.

https://www.google.com/search?safe=o....0.fhX8nZTNM5w

the invoices come from fleetpride, so i assume they are a division of, or somehow interconnected.