Rico F. - 1954 3600 Long bed S10/LS conversion

[skymangs]

Here is the installation on the door weatherstrip. I let it sit overnight to be sure that the trim adhesive has completely adhered.

Pic 3 is routing/crimping AC lines for the vintage system.

I had a little issue with the core support. This is the first build I've used the stock Denso compressor. The lower hose opening on the radiator was interfering with the AC clutch, so I had to move the lower radiator channel higher to clear it. pics 4 and 5 are what I did to get around it.

[skymangs]

Here's how the radiator and fan setup came out. VERY tight. there is about 1" of clearance between the water pump pully and the fan motor. The fan is controlled by the PCM, and comes on at 200 degrees.

[skymangs]

Finishing some interior work. 1 piece headliner installed (covered in charcoal material), battery, seat frame, and power locks are installed.

[skymangs]

Passenger door glass and vent installed. second pic is how I made the stock inner handles operate the bear claws. I cut the stock rods down, and added a few inches to them, so then you pull them back, the lower the mechanism.

Third pic is the boots I used to run the wires from the dash to the power lock solenoids

Last pic is the driver side vent and window installed

[skymangs]

Door panels and window trim installed.

AC condenser and trans cooler installed (the trans cooler is a mid 90's Ford explorer plate style cooler)

Air intake and MAF finished up.

[skymangs]

This is how I re-rust repaired spots. It's a mix of Hydrgen Peroxide, White vinegar, and salt. If sprayed on bare metal, you can watch it rust before your eyes. let it dry and re-spray to get the rust darker. Seal it with Pentrol when you've achieved the proper amount of surface rust.

[skymangs]

This is the used tailgate I had to work with. I needed to make it match the truck if possible.

the rest are in progress pics

[skymangs]

Here is the tailgate finished and mounted up. The dark spots over the bare metal are from the pentrol (still wet).

The last pic is just after the initial test drive. Ran great, lots of power, and smooth as glass!

[skymangs]

Exhaust finished up, duals hide nicely just below rear cross-sill height. Front and rear bumpers installed.

[skymangs]

Rear fender rust repair.

[skymangs]

Caps and trim rings installed. Spare tire carrier modified to handle the HUGE spare (255/60R15)

The last few are the DX oil can I modified to cover the fuel filler neck. I cut the lower inch off the can and flipped it so the lower portion gets captured by the upper half. Then I riveted some latches to the base, and used a holesaw to cut and access hole for the fuel cap.

[skymangs]

Here's the oil can installed in the bed. The bed is made of 3/4" roofing grade plywood (bedlined on the underside), and skinned in tongue and groove.

The last two are the buttoned up engine bay. Ready to hit the road!

[skymangs]

Here's some finished shots. I'm pretty pleased with it, and so is the owner!

[skymangs]

Final few shots. Truck is home now, and the family loves it.

[wibas]

Hey your truck looks great. What did you use for door panels? Did you do your own seat upholstery?

[skymangs]

Door panels and seat are one off custom, built by Ron's Auto Trim in Warsaw MO. Yer nice work for a VERY reasonable price. He kept a template so he can make them any time I need a set.

Speedo finally arrived from Red Line Gaugework, all new electronic guts, original look. Pretty damned nice work if you ask me!

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Door panels and seat are one off custom, built by Ron's Auto Trim in Warsaw MO. Yer nice work for a VERY reasonable price. He kept a template so he can make them any time I need a set.

Speedo finally arrived from Red Line Gaugework, all new electronic guts, original look. Pretty damned nice work if you ask me!

The gauge does look good. Did they refurbish the original one?

[RCbowtie69]

Nice work & looking good.Keep up the good work & keeping these trucks on the road.Keep on Truckin"

[Uncle Jimi]

Skymangs, this truck turned out incredible!

I'm wondering about the remote power door locks??? Who do you suggest to get them from? Are the cheap kit's on amazon ok? Or go with something from speedway?

Thanks!!

[skymangs]

Thanks all. The owner is VERY happy with the truck. It's been in his family as long as he can remember.

Redline cleaned the old gauge face and bezel, but we wanted to keep it matching the other side, so they left the patina. Was damned expensive though.

I buy door lock motors and the remote from ebay. Inexpensive kits work just as well as the high dollar stuff. I think I had $60 in the power locks on this truck.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Thanks all. The owner is VERY happy with the truck. It's been in his family as long as he can remember.

Redline cleaned the old gauge face and bezel, but we wanted to keep it matching the other side, so they left the patina. Was damned expensive though.

I buy door lock motors and the remote from ebay. Inexpensive kits work just as well as the high dollar stuff. I think I had $60 in the power locks on this truck.

Thanks Skymangs...appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience.

[chuckmc8]

Very Nice. I like the battery location also

[tlorber]

Sarge,
Do you have any close up pics of where the wiring harness enters the firewall on this build, and also, any pics of the PCM/TAC module mounted in the interior?

I'm trying to figure out which holes to weld up in the firewall and which to keep.
Much appreciated.

[skymangs]

Thanks guys. Post number 40 and 51 show where the engine harness enters the firewall. The PCM is mounted across the dash support rods behind the speedo and the TAC module is mounted about 6" above the throttle pedal on the firewall brace (sorry, no pics). I really enjoyed this build. Check out my new one "Cecil". Going back a couple decades with a TPI motor.

[skymangs]

I weld them all, except the steering column and the left side wiring harness hole.