my 63 upgrade

[Mjminino]

should help for ya

got it from HERE, read through a few pages. It might help you.

The guy got the image from here if you dont want to read a few pages on that guys build thread

[Captainfab]

Yes those are Ford brake drums. As I mentioned previously, someone has converted your 12 bolt to pressed on wheel/axle bearings. Apparently they used the Ford axle housing ends, axles and drums. There are better ways to accomplish the same thing, but that is how many people feel they need to do it.

When I installed the 454 in my '66 Suburban, I fabricated my own engine mount brackets to keep the engine as far back and as low as possible. With the short water pump, I ran a mechanical fan for a short time. I now have electric fans.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yes those are Ford brake drums. As I mentioned previously, someone has converted your 12 bolt to pressed on wheel/axle bearings. Apparently they used the Ford axle housing ends, axles and drums. There are better ways to accomplish the same thing, but that is how many people feel they need to do it.

When I installed the 454 in my '66 Suburban, I fabricated my own engine mount brackets to keep the engine as far back and as low as possible. With the short water pump, I ran a mechanical fan for a short time. I now have electric fans.

ok, is it why (with the ford parts) my brake hardware don't match properly the brake shoes and the brake plate? my brake shoes are the same F/R but at the rear the pin holding the shoe on the plate is not perpendicular to the plate it's ****ty.

i do have a short water pump on my engine but i cannot run a fan with the fan clutch, a fan only like it was on the big block is ok but it'll be to long with a clutch and the fan.
i'll go with electric fan wath size are you running a big one (like 18")or two smaller (12") how many cfm should we run for a BB?

thanks séb

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

should help for ya

got it from HERE, read through a few pages. It might help you.

The guy got the image from here if you dont want to read a few pages on that guys build thread

thanks! now i see i have more troubles ahead! so both u joint of the 2nd part of my driveshaft must be angled the same, that's mean that i'll have a lot to do on the 1rst part of the driveshaft to mount the tranny and the center bearing properly.
but my question is what is the correct angle of the engine? i guess the front should be a bit higher than the back but how much?

[Captainfab]

It's hard without actually seeing or knowing what was done to your differential as to what brakes should be used on it.

I run 2 fans that I believe are 12" diameter. I don't remember the CFM for certain, but I believe they are about1800 to 2000 cfm each.....that was done about 23 years ago.

Originally Posted by 1strong63

ok, is it why (with the ford parts) my brake hardware don't match properly the brake shoes and the brake plate? my brake shoes are the same F/R but at the rear the pin holding the shoe on the plate is not perpendicular to the plate it's ****ty.

i do have a short water pump on my engine but i cannot run a fan with the fan clutch, a fan only like it was on the big block is ok but it'll be to long with a clutch and the fan.
i'll go with electric fan wath size are you running a big one (like 18")or two smaller (12") how many cfm should we run for a BB?

thanks séb

Typically the engine should sit at about 3 to 4 degrees down at the rear. . It should sit at an angle that is parallel to the pinion angle

Originally Posted by 1strong63

thanks! now i see i have more troubles ahead! so both u joint of the 2nd part of my driveshaft must be angled the same, that's mean that i'll have a lot to do on the 1rst part of the driveshaft to mount the tranny and the center bearing properly.
but my question is what is the correct angle of the engine? i guess the front should be a bit higher than the back but how much?

[1strong63]

hi i'm maybe looking to have a lower ratio for cruising, i was around 2500rpm at 55 mph with the SM420, 3.73 rear end and 275 60R15 tyres. I saw that some guys did use a tremec T5 tranny.
there is one for sell here but i saw they are only rated to 300 lb-ft. of torque capacity. Is it constant duty torque or peak duty torque?
Does it handle more with some stronger parts like chromo shafts or so?
http://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_a...59.htm?ca=21_s

[LVPhotos]

Not for a Rat Motor. The T5 will snap the aluminum housing under load. Step up to a TKO 600 like I did or get over drive for your trans. NV 4500 or the like from a truck.

[1strong63]

thanks LVPhotos. i quest for an overdrive at the beginning but i've only found the gear vendors that is out of budget for me and an old unit from Power Torque Industries that no longer exist and now is sold at advance adapters under the name Ranger Torque Splitter but i've call them and send 2 e-mail and they don't answer me.

maybe i can find an option for a divorced overdrive unit as i have a 2 pieces driveshaft?

i'll have a look at the trans you recommend. i've already heard about the 4500 it's coming in dodge truck with cummins right?

[Captainfab]

The NV4500 was also used in GM trucks starting in 1992.

[1strong63]

can you guys please have a look to the link below and confirm if it's a 235 ci engine. from what i've found the distributor location is a good indication for the model of engine (230, 235, 250, 292)
thanks
http://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_a...98.htm?ca=21_s

[1strong63]

captainfab i see in you signature you are doing some adapters, i don't mind a bit of safety with stronger brakes can you have a look at the link bellow and tell me if the brake and MS combo will work with your adapter?
http://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_a...86.htm?ca=21_s

should i ask the guy a PN to confirm?
cheers

[Mjminino]

Ask him for the serial/casting number

Then go HERE and HERE for correct identification.

[1strong63]

i'll do thanks.

[1strong63]

does any of you already rebuild a non power steering box? mine is pretty solid with no rust or play but it's leaking. i've found the seals and a few other parts but i just wonder if there is a tutorial somewhere as my manual only covers the power steering set up.
didn't find some on the forum.

[Mjminino]

If it were me, i wouldn't rebuild a non p/s box when it is so easy to switch to a p/s one. I have a rebuild tutorial on that.

[Captainfab]

That master/booster combo looks like it should work, but there is not enough info to say for sure. If you go to the for sale thread for the '63-'6 brake booster bracket, in post #183 on page 8 there is a complete listing of compatible brake boosters. The booster hole dimensions are in post #1.

Originally Posted by 1strong63

captainfab i see in you signature you are doing some adapters, i don't mind a bit of safety with stronger brakes can you have a look at the link bellow and tell me if the brake and MS combo will work with your adapter?
http://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_a...86.htm?ca=21_s

should i ask the guy a PN to confirm?
cheers

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

If it were me, i wouldn't rebuild a non p/s box when it is so easy to switch to a p/s one. I have a rebuild tutorial on that.

it probably would be smarter but from what i see i have to run a different steering column and linkage plus i'll have to buid another bracket for the pump on the engine and plumb all that stuff.
with a proper caster/camber the manual steering is just a bit harsh when stopped as soon as you're rolling it's pretty good.
i have big arms that's ok

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

That master/booster combo looks like it should work, but there is not enough info to say for sure. If you go to the for sale thread for the '63-'6 brake booster bracket, in post #183 on page 8 there is a complete listing of compatible brake boosters. The booster hole dimensions are in post #1.

great, thanks a lot i've been to your post and get the list hope this match.

[1strong63]

hi, how do you guys in USA do to swap a diesel engine in a gas truck? legaly what documents should you have to be covered by the insurance company or do a DOT registration?

[1strong63]

just play a bit with the SM465 today, the rebuild kit came with bearings, seal, synchros and an upgrade to avoid the 3rd gear to jump out of gear (heavier springs for the rails and a solid sleeve for the countershaft instead of clips)
i didn't know how put the bearing on the mainshaft so i put them on a steel plate and with the torch, heated them from under. It turns out that the 2nd gear bearing slide with ease. the 1rst speed and 3rd speed bearings just need a bit of press once heated to get in.

[1strong63]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

Ask him for the serial/casting number

Then go HERE and HERE for correct identification.

well it's a 1973/1979 250ci engine in a Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, or Pontiac

[1strong63]

i also replace my trailing arms bushes, it came out pretty easily with a chisel and a hammer once i did a small cut in the outter shell. but the new one comes in without any effort, just with the fingers. i see an overbore in the new one i have but it shouldn't be as big as it should.


i don't feel it must be loose in the arm

[1strong63]

and look what the guy use to shim the diff.

[1strong63]

i was able to spend all the afternoon at the shop so i've done a few stuffs.
first build my clutch slave cylinder bracket

i use 7 mm steel for the side on the bellhousing and 5 mm thick to hold the SS.

i'd like to do an additionnal bracket to connect the brachet to the perpendicular hole on the bellhousing but i cannot find a bolt threaded correctly. i'll see in the future how it holds.

i put the rod travel of the SS as it is on the vehicule it comes from but i don't know if it'll work for the chevy clutch. the donor truck and the chev both use a 12" clucth, the fork is just a little bit shorter on the toyota than the chev so i guess i'll have enough travel for the release bearing to disengage the clutch.
can someone can measure the travel of his fork from the SS just to get an idea?
thanks.

then when i tried to change my brake hose i screw the nut on the brake pipe that does a 90° twist in the frame. so i cut the pipe did a new flare and build a small bracket to make it straight.

[Captainfab]

If you can not shrink the bore in the trailing arms, you may have to make a few tack welds to hold them in place.

Originally Posted by 1strong63

i also replace my trailing arms bushes, it came out pretty easily with a chisel and a hammer once i did a small cut in the outter shell. but the new one comes in without any effort, just with the fingers. i see an overbore in the new one i have but it shouldn't be as big as it should.

i don't feel it must be loose in the arm