I'm Back!

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

Interesting twist to my wheel question...turns out that the PO swapped out the 16.5 wheels for 16"......split rims. I'll be hitting the local junk yards for a set of original 16.5's

On another note, I scraped off some of the crud from the engine, to find the date code and was successful. The problem is that I'm more versed in the SBC and BBC, and AMC I6 engine decoding.

Does anyone know what this code translates to? I'm pretty sure the "F" is for Flint; 03I3=? No clue what the "P" means. Also, I'm used to seeing a three-letter suffix; my '72 Suburban 402 code was T0108TLM.

Here's the pic of the date code.

just thought I would mention that 16.5 tires are getting harder to find,most tire shops don't carry them,I have switched some of mine to 16" they look the same and you can easily find tires,I know they aren,t original,but who cares. ..I still run 16.5 aluminum wheels on a couple of my trucks ,but have to buy expensive BF Goodrich all-terrain tires for them in a 33-12.50 16.5,other companies make them but only in 35's or bigger for the rock crawlers......

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

Went out, turned the barn lights on and snapped a few pics.

Nice find for $650.00

[Motherfrog402]

Thanks for the link, Jim.

Yeah, I know that 16.5 tires aren't exactly found at the local tire shop that easily, but I'm a weirdo for originality. Firestone still makes the TransForce HT in a 16.5 and that's probably what I'll go with.

[rusty76]

Cool truck. I had a '74 Cheyenne Super with that was blue and white, just like the pic. I should have kept it but needed money at the time....oh well. I like the looks of your truck. Reminds me of my '76.

[Motherfrog402]

The Rochester Monojet 7044026 arrived today and I promptly took it apart and put all the parts in the carb dipping paint bucket....it was filthy. One of the choke valve shaft screws broke, as did a throttle valve shaft screw....thank God for www.quadrajetparts.com The new oversized screws have been ordered.

About an hour ago, I took the big parts out of the dipper and took a toothbrush to them...it's amazing how much carbon was on it. I put them back in the can and I'll leave them in overnight.

Still waiting on the rebuild kit and choke parts.

Does anyone know where I can buy pre-made fuel and vacuum hard lines, or will I have to make my own? The PO hacked up the fuel line and stripped the nut.

[Motherfrog402]

The Monojet rebuild kit arrived today; after soaking for the better part of several days, the carb looks great...let's hope it runs great...I set everything to spec, so we'll see. Replaced almost all my fuses...forgot to buy 10amp...and replaced all my bulbs, because I like to start with a clean slate, good thing too, because the PO used some of the wrong bulbs.

This evening I ordered some NOS goodies....turn signal switch, ignition switch, dome lamp lens and I also got a really nice lightly used steering wheel, to replace the existing melted one....how the hell does a steering wheel melt????

Tomorrow I go to the parts store to pick up fuel line, which I'll bend myself to fit and some fuses.....oh yeah, the PO took a blown fuse and stuffed it with tin foil, that idjit!!!!

Here are some pics.

[greg64]

Funny coincidence, Fred. I just ordered a new turn signal switch today. Mine's been a bit flaky for years, but now it no longer self-cancels on left turns. I guess it's time to replace the 38 year old thing.

Nice looking wheel, by the way.

[Motherfrog402]

Originally Posted by greg64

Funny coincidence, Fred. I just ordered a new turn signal switch today. Mine's been a bit flaky for years, but now it no longer self-cancels on left turns. I guess it's time to replace the 38 year old thing.

Nice looking wheel, by the way.

I'm not looking forward to seeing what the existing switch looks like. When I push the Hazard button in, I have to wiggle it, so that it stays on, and then it's a PITA to turn off; I have to keep the turn signal on by hand, otherwise it doesn't work. I had to do the same thing with my '76 CJ-5 too.

There were several wheels on ePay, but this one was the nicest and cheapest...we'll see what it looks like in person, because I know the seller put some kind of vinyl dressing on it. I'll give it a good cleaning and see what's what.

[Hankster]

Where is everyone getting NOS parts?

[Hankster]

Oh, and them parts look good! Now go get them on!

[Motherfrog402]

Originally Posted by Hankster

Where is everyone getting NOS parts?

Knowing the correct part numbers for what you want is the most important part; after that, Google is your friend.

Originally Posted by Hankster

Oh, and them parts look good! Now go get them
on!

As soon as they get here!

[Motherfrog402]

Well, I miss the hell out of my CJ-5, but working on this truck sure is scratching the itch. I got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser and points, as well as a new air cleaner, steel fuel line, steel vacuum line and new rubber hoses.....I love it when an engine comes together! It still looks like crap, but at least it runs good. The carburetor is nice and smooth.

I still need to get manifold gaskets, because I have one hellacious exhaust leak. I also need a new headlight switch...the knob just floats in and out, without grabbing anything. The wipers don't work worth a spit and neither does the radio, the odometer or the interior dome light.

[Hankster]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

Knowing the correct part numbers for what you want is the most important part; after that, Google is your friend.




As soon as they get here!

Thanks for the info sir!

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

I got new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser and points,

Woah, woah, woah. Condenser and points? Here's a chance for an upgrade. Either go to a Pertronix or use the later distributor (HEI). Either is really simple to do, and you won't believe how much better the engine starts with HEI.

My 250 used to be points, and I ran it like that for a few years, and that was okay. But then I found an HEI at a swap meet. What a difference. I'd never go back now.

My current 292 has a Pertronix, and that works good too.

[Motherfrog402]

It's a farm truck and it's also going to be my daughter's truck to take to school. It'll get HEI down the road but for now points will work.

[Motherfrog402]

Went back to Jalopy Jungle today and scored a tailgate that is in great condition, speedometer, headlight switch and the circuit board for the gauge cluster....$34 for everything.

I installed the heater control today as well as the speedo....I now have a working odometer!

[Motherfrog402]

Next problem....gauge cluster lights don't work; courtesy light doesn't work; dome light doesn't work. Fuses all replaced; bulbs are intact.

[Hankster]

Same as my truck.. Lights and fuses are there, but no working lights..

[Motherfrog402]

Changing out the light switch worked....gauge cluster lights now work.

Next issue is the wiper motor doesn't work. I have power at the wires, so I know it's the motor.

And, yes, I have seen the proverbial light, when it comes to HEI. I don't remember points distributors being that much of a PITA.

[Motherfrog402]

Question for you electrical gurus...the PO bypassed the ignition and installed a push button starter on the instrument panel, connecting the wires to each pole of the starter solenoid. Figuring that the ignition switch was bad, I got a NOS unit and installed it....no dice. I confirmed that the ignition rod is actuating the ignition switch; I have power to the junction block on the firewall, and I have power at the starter solenoid pole, where the resistor wires connect.

Here's the question...I'm pretty sure that the purple wire on the solenoid should have power, when the key is in the "Start" position, correct?

If the solenoid is bad, would running the push button starter to both poles make it engage?

I'm at my wits end on this. It's a simple system, but that's the only thing I can think of that's wrong with it.

Thanks for the answers.

[Hankster]

I don't have an answer, but I am sure someone on this site does!

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

Question for you electrical gurus...the PO bypassed the ignition and installed a push button starter on the instrument panel, connecting the wires to each pole of the starter solenoid. Figuring that the ignition switch was bad, I got a NOS unit and installed it....no dice. I confirmed that the ignition rod is actuating the ignition switch; I have power to the junction block on the firewall, and I have power at the starter solenoid pole, where the resistor wires connect.

Here's the question...I'm pretty sure that the purple wire on the solenoid should have power, when the key is in the "Start" position, correct?

If the solenoid is bad, would running the push button starter to both poles make it engage?

I'm at my wits end on this. It's a simple system, but that's the only thing I can think of that's wrong with it.

Thanks for the answers.

the purple wire goes to a connector for a neutral safety switch/clutch start switch. The PO may have bypassed that. Check to make sure that switch is in and working. A quick way is to jump those two purple terminals to complete the circuit. Just be careful on an automatic it will start in gear jumped.
Neutral safety is located at the bottom of the column
Clutch start is located off the clutch pedal and pedal support

[Motherfrog402]

Crap didn't even think about the clutch start switch to start it. I didn't think that was a truck that old you would have to push the clutch in. I'll give it a try and report back real quick.

[Motherfrog402]

Okay, still no start. Looked under the dash and the clutch start switch is there and connected, but for the life of me I don't understand how pushing in the clutch does anything....maybe the switch is boogered up. I also looked further up the harness and it looks like it was re-wrapped, so I'll be taking the instrument panel out again, to get better access and see what's what. It's been raining like hell today, so I'll tackle it when it's dry.

Does anyone have a pic of what the clutch start switch is supposed to look like, when properly working?

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Motherfrog402

Okay, still no start. Looked under the dash and the clutch start switch is there and connected, but for the life of me I don't understand how pushing in the clutch does anything....maybe the switch is boogered up. I also looked further up the harness and it looks like it was re-wrapped, so I'll be taking the instrument panel out again, to get better access and see what's what. It's been raining like hell today, so I'll tackle it when it's dry.

Does anyone have a pic of what the clutch start switch is supposed to look like, when properly working?

I don't have any photos of them but they are a simple contact switch. The test is to jump across the two terminals. Disconnect the harness connector and jump the 2 wires to test the start circuit. The switch completes the circuit when the pedal is depressed. If this does not help trace the wires from the PO's start button. I can not even guess how the PO wired in the push button start switch. Most likely the push button was done to bypass a problem that he could not figure out. I would assume at least one wire to it was a purple lead. But there is no telling what some people do when it comes to wiring.

I seem to remember GM first started using clutch start switches around 1972 or 1973.