47-55.1 Danforth Cross Member Install

[Coach529]

Did get some time in the shop today, but did not get near enough done. The frame was totally stripped. Those rivets are a pain in the ass. Most came out by cutting the head off with a skinny wheel and a punch. Some others required more persuasion.



Layout of the 1.5" notch that Scott suggested for the ride height I was looking for.



I did read the instructions....

[Elder Rogue]

In the picture with the notch mock up,,,

Did you level the frame then measure up 1.5" in the back and then keep that line level moving toward the front of the frame?

I have been doing this step in my mind for months and it was always the way I thought it would work.

The other was to level frame, set the cross member up to the bottom of the frame and take a incline reading on the cross member. Then cut the notch to match the incline (if any)

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Coach529

Great info.....I will have to do some digging. Finding a 2WD Blazer up here is going to be tough.

Yep, When you get outside of Southern California or the Phoenix area or maybe south Texas two wheel drive Blazers of any year are pretty well non existent in any year model or series. Show up with a lowered one and the 4X4 brigade in town is ready to fight because you "destroyed" a Blazer.

[mr48chev]

Looks like you did the center punch and drill method on the rivets. I've found that it is easiest when you use a smaller pilot drill bit and then go up by steps rather than try to drill the head in one shot.

From experience that wasn't necessarily all good you want to have the main straight part of the frame rails dead level when doing any front suspension mods no matter what they are. The exception might be a T bucket with a radical frame rake in the style of the Kookie car that needs to be setup a bit different but a normal rubber rake on an AD truck shouldn't require having the frame set up at an angle to get the caster right.

Are you raising the notch in the frame enough to get the truck as low as you want it?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Elder Rogue

In the picture with the notch mock up,,,

Did you level the frame then measure up 1.5" in the back and then keep that line level moving toward the front of the frame?

I have been doing this step in my mind for months and it was always the way I thought it would work.

The other was to level frame, set the cross member up to the bottom of the frame and take a incline reading on the cross member. Then cut the notch to match the incline (if any)

The frame is leveled on jack stands. I then cutout the template Scott provided and marked the frame. I then doubled checked the horizontal cut and made sure it was level.

The only problem I ran into is the template Scott provided for the notch only references the center line of the front shackle as 2.59" from the front of the frame. My measurement was different. Once I compensated for that difference all my other measurements on the instructions worked out.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Looks like you did the center punch and drill method on the rivets. I've found that it is easiest when you use a smaller pilot drill bit and then go up by steps rather than try to drill the head in one shot.

From experience that wasn't necessarily all good you want to have the main straight part of the frame rails dead level when doing any front suspension mods no matter what they are. The exception might be a T bucket with a radical frame rake in the style of the Kookie car that needs to be setup a bit different but a normal rubber rake on an AD truck shouldn't require having the frame set up at an angle to get the caster right.

Are you raising the notch in the frame enough to get the truck as low as you want it?

I cut the rivet heads off with a 4-1/2" skinny wheel and then pushed them out with punch and BFH. Once I ran out of skinny wheels I resorted to a sawzall. It was not a pretty scene.

The truck is sitting dead level front to back and side to side currently.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Are you raising the notch in the frame enough to get the truck as low as you want it?

Yes.

Below is a quote from Scott:

My kit will allow you to put the ride height where you want it. As-is out of the box, you keep the truck near stock height (about 1” lower). However if you want to have the truck lower, I have frame notching templates (raising the crossmember, lowering the truck). This will get you up to 1-1/2” of drop. Beyond that, you can get dropped spindles for another 2” of drop.

[Coach529]

After measuring.....then measuring again, checking the level, then measuring again.....I finally go the cross member tack in.



Should be able to finish up the welding on the top half this weekend if all goes right. I then will mock up the motor and see if I can use the existing transmission cross member, or if that will need to be moved or modified. Hoping I do not have to modify my floor to clear my transmission. One I get that all done the can will come off and I will flip the frame to do the welding underneath.

[Elder Rogue]

Looks good.

Very clean.

Keeping a close eye on this update.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Elder Rogue

Looks good.

Very clean.

Keeping a close eye on this update.

Thanks!!

[Coach529]

I had a couple hours available today and was able to button up most of the install cross member today!!












Next step is to pull off the cab and flip the frame and finish up the welding on the bottom side.

[oldman3]

Looks good...Jim

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Looks good...Jim

Thanks!!

[Coach529]

I have been plugging away at the IRS in the back......so the IFS has not gotten a lot of attention.

Last night I mocked up the S-10 donor parts.



According to some rough measurements with a 27" tall tire, and stock spindles my running boards will be about 4" off the ground.

I am loosing some travel due to the upper ball joint binding up.

So the question is:

• Pie cut stock UCA?
• Buy Pro Forged Super Travel Upper Ball Joints
• Buy Tubular Upper Control Arms

I plan on dehumping the Lower Control Arm to accept my bags

[Coach529]

Some duplicate pictures from my "Henry" build thread.

Here it is layed out. I pie cut the UCA to give the ball joint some relief and it gave me the additional drop I needed. Running board brackets are on the ground with no weight on the chassis,

[Coach529]

Since I am dealing with a bare chassis I was able to flip the chassis and make sure I had a good weld on the bottom side.

[Coach529]

Some other info from dwcsr.

Rack and pinion will be out of a 1988 FORD THUNDERBIRD 5.0L 302cid V8,
ATSCO 6406 ( 3 turn) Rack and Pinion

Tie rod ends will be Moog-ES3238RL.

[dwcsr]

Here is a bit more info on that rack so you can get the correct hose fittings. Most hose fittings the aftermarket vendors sell are metric but a lot of Ford racks are Imperial port threads. There are 3 racks Ford used, A TRW, a Ford and a Ford two piece. This one below is a Ford single piece 3 turn rack with imperial port threads. I.E. 9/16-18 and 5/8-18 they are very close in size to the metrics and the metrics will appear to thread in but will leak or pull out when you tighten them.

There is also a Sport steering which is 2.5 turns, this is NOT the sport steering.


Rack & Pinion Type - Power Steering
Rack Length - 45.25
Total Turns Lock To Lock- 3
Steering Input Shaft Type- Splined, Single Flat
Inlet Size - 9/16'' X 18
Inlet Attachment Type- Teflon
Outlet Size - 5/8'' X 18
Outlet Attachment Type- Teflon
Tie Rod Ends Included- Inner

For you junk yard crawlers the years it came in

FORD FAIRMONT 1980-1983
FORD GRANADA 1981-1982
FORD LTD 1983-1986
FORD LTD CROWN VICTORIA 1983-1986
FORD MUSTANG 1980-1993
FORD THUNDERBIRD 1980-1988
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 1982-1987
LINCOLN MARK VII 1984-1992
MERCURY CAPRI 1980-1986
MERCURY COUGAR 1980-1988
MERCURY MARQUIS 1983-1986
MERCURY ZEPHYR 1980-1983

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Here is a bit more info on that rack so you can get the correct hose fittings. Most hose fittings the aftermarket vendors sell are metric but a lot of Ford racks are Imperial port threads. There are 3 racks Ford used, A TRW, a Ford and a Ford two piece. This one below is a Ford single piece 3 turn rack with imperial port threads. I.E. 9/16-18 and 5/8-18 they are very close in size to the metrics and the metrics will appear to thread in but will leak or pull out when you tighten them.

There is also a Sport steering which is 2.5 turns, this is NOT the sport steering.


Rack & Pinion Type - Power Steering
Rack Length - 45.25
Total Turns Lock To Lock- 3
Steering Input Shaft Type- Splined, Single Flat
Inlet Size - 9/16'' X 18
Inlet Attachment Type- Teflon
Outlet Size - 5/8'' X 18
Outlet Attachment Type- Teflon
Tie Rod Ends Included- Inner

For you junk yard crawlers the years it came in

FORD FAIRMONT 1980-1983
FORD GRANADA 1981-1982
FORD LTD 1983-1986
FORD LTD CROWN VICTORIA 1983-1986
FORD MUSTANG 1980-1993
FORD THUNDERBIRD 1980-1988
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 1982-1987
LINCOLN MARK VII 1984-1992
MERCURY CAPRI 1980-1986
MERCURY COUGAR 1980-1988
MERCURY MARQUIS 1983-1986
MERCURY ZEPHYR 1980-1983

Thanks Dave, your input is amazing. I know this rack ordeal is a huge trouble spot with the guys installing a Danforth rack. Glad to see someone finally found a solid solution.

I actually sent a email to Borgeson this morning to get part numbers and prices on premade lines and pump options.

I have never had power steering lines made, maybe I will look into that option as well.

Mike

[Coach529]

Below is the response I got from Borgeson:

800310 black pump $166.34
800311 chrome pump $234.43
801001 2 row black pulley $58.05
801101 polished aluminum single row pulley $65.86
802400 pump bracket for small block with short water pump $72.56
802402 pump bracket for small block with long water pump $72.56
925102 hose kit $75.00

When I questioned what fittings are on the 925102 hose kit, the response I got is below:

The pressure port should be a 14mm X 1.5 thread and the return a 16mm X 1.5; those are the fitting sizes supplied with the 925102 hose kit.

[Coach529]

Any thoughts on a Borgeson pump set up for the Ford Pressure and Volume vs a Chevy type 1 pump and Borgeson shim kit?

[Coach529]

I contacted tech support at Atsco and they confirmed what Dave mentioned.

The inlet (pressure) port 9/16 X 18
The outlet (return) port 5/8 X 18

[Coach529]

And Borgeson Tech support has no credibility at all. They claim the imperial and metric are interchangeable.

Buyer beware........

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Coach529

And Borgeson Tech support has no credibility at all. They claim the imperial and metric are interchangeable.

Buyer beware........

Been down this road. The metric will seem to screw in but it wobbles in the bore and when you crank it tight it may well pull the treads out of it. Borgeson swears they are all metric and no one sells imperial any longer. Well except Speedway, Jegs, Summit, Russell.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Been down this road. The metric will seem to screw in but it wobbles in the bore and when you crank it tight it may well pull the treads out of it. Borgeson swears they are all metric and no one sells imperial any longer. Well except Speedway, Jegs, Summit, Russell.

What did you do for hoses?