48 Chevy COE custom diesel build

[lower50's]

Great progress. Our motors are the same weight I know yours is going to be mid engine. Just some air bag info I have 7" on the front and 8" on the back. I need 120 psi on the front and 40 psi on the rear to get to my ride height. With out fuel. I am thinking my truck will be just over 5000lb when done. Just don't want to see you have to redo something later.

[Chance48]

Hey Lowers,

You can basically swap our wieght bias' around. I'm gonna be real light in the front as apposed to yours, well light comparatively speaking. I really believe the 5 7/8" bags up front will do it. Actually fixin to get on the phone with Universal Air Suspension and get their opinion on the front and am definitely gonna see about swapping the rear smaller bags in the kit to some 8" bags. This truck with the bed I'm gonna use is gonna be ass heavy.....what's that song? .....those fat bottom girls make the rockin world go round!.... Lol

Thanks for you guys concern, hopefully universal air can hook me up the way I want.

Chance

[Chance48]

Also, how do you guys put the link to your builds under your posts like that??

[Chance48]

I took you guys advice and looked around a bit more for suspension. I found thorbros and talked to Jason. He was on the fence about my situation with the mid engine and running a smaller bag up there. After some thought and understanding a little more about air ride and how the bags are positioned, I'm pretty sure I can fit the bigger bag pretty easily aswell so I went that route. And, I'm very happy with the cost. I went all manual. Got all the air parts plus my HD 4-link and pan hard kits for 1900.00. So I'm under my projected budget so far. I had figured on 3G's for those items.

Ya"ll check out Thorbros if you need suspension parts. He does a lot for s-10 builds. Guy is friendly and doesn't try to sell you what you don't need. I had the VU4 setup in my sites, and while that's awesome or even the e-level kit, he advised, manual doesn't break and it is much more affordable and practical.

Peace, Chance

[lower50's]

Cool Glad you found a good air shop to help. The price seems really good. As for signature go to "User CP" top left then "Edit Signature" and copy past your build
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=686729

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by Chance48

I took you guys advice and looked around a bit more for suspension. I found thorbros and talked to Jason. He was on the fence about my situation with the mid engine and running a smaller bag up there. After some thought and understanding a little more about air ride and how the bags are positioned, I'm pretty sure I can fit the bigger bag pretty easily aswell so I went that route. And, I'm very happy with the cost. I went all manual. Got all the air parts plus my HD 4-link and pan hard kits for 1900.00. So I'm under my projected budget so far. I had figured on 3G's for those items.

Ya"ll check out Thorbros if you need suspension parts. He does a lot for s-10 builds. Guy is friendly and doesn't try to sell you what you don't need. I had the VU4 setup in my sites, and while that's awesome or even the e-level kit, he advised, manual doesn't break and it is much more affordable and practical.

Peace, Chance

Chance, I'm glad you got your front suspension sorted out. It's always better to err on the side of caution anyway and be larger than not big enough.


I know you are going mid engine in this project, just be careful not to get your weight bias off. If you are planning a heavy bed and are going mid-engine, you may end up shifting your weight bias too far to the rear. If you get too far from a 50/50 split front to rear, as in more weight on the rear suspension than on the front, your truck will not drive like you want it to. It will push going in to turns and could potentially become unstable. Think of a pickup pulling a heavily loaded trailer with the back squatting and the front suspension riding on the upper snubbers. It will go down the road, but when you want to turn left or right, the truck wants to go straight (push). With your air bags, the truck will ride level, but when you try to turn, it will want to push.

I know you're not looking at racing your build when it's complete, but you still want to be able to enjoy driving it. Just something to keep in mind. The Cummins drivetrain is heavy, so be careful how far back you go. It may be worth while to borrow some chassis scales if you know anybody at the local dirt racing track or a State Trooper that works size and weights enforcement.

-Joe

[Chance48]

Thanks Purcell, I've been keeping that in mind. I'm moving the axle back 28". The engine will be a good piece on the front side bias. I should be fine. It still will never be as heavy in front as if engine where between the fenders, that's why I was saying gonna be light, but I don't think it will be dangerously light....I hope.

I love the coe's and diesels but I don't think I'll ever do another unless I do a lifted 4x4 version so that the cab can be raised higher and engine put under. Would then have to put your rad behind cab but that's no biggie. this truck is gonna be right at 30' long when complete....

[Chance48]

Got my front cab mounts in. I repurposed some of the dodge frame mounts and rubbers. It turned out good but it seems a lil to squishy. I'm gonna add another on each side just right about center of the door and once I sort the front end mountings, everything should firm up nicely and still have some dampening......compared to the basically solid mounted way it was in the old days.






Then I lopped the front of the frame off, getting ready for front end mock up....










Goal is get front end fitted and mountings done, then I'll move back to suspension and engine mounts.

[lower50's]

That looks sick!! I love COE's slammed.

[Dieselwrencher]

I have a radiator and intercooler from a bread truck I was going to use in mine. It might be pricey to ship though. I can take some pics and get some measurements for you if you'd like. I was planning to put it under the hood behind the grill for max air flow across the cores. Great work on the body mounts!

[47 Fasttoys]

Man Chance you are making some fast work of this project. 30 foot is a boat for sure, mine ended up at 20 foot and that's with a 12 foot bed. So let's see here, your gonna have a 23 foot bed? If the engine/trans is 7 foot plus 2 foot for a drive shaft, around 3 more for the rear tires maybe 3 more for overhang. That's a 15 foot bed which by the way is the perfect length for a car hauler. 30 foot, that's RV time. Oh, and another thing, I'm here to help you out as far as the diesel/COE idea, sell me your cab without the Dodge stuff at your cost and all your problems will go away, 6 months later I'll let you test drive it sitting on a 2002 Silverado 4WD chassis, and because I'm such a nice guy I'll even drive it to you for your test drive. You see I'm here to help, LOL.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

I got an idea, get yours completed, I'll drive mine down with my wife's Mini on the back, we can load all that on the back of yours and drive around town looking for low power lines. LOL , please don't me serious, just cutting up (except the purchase offer) I think it's coming along great. I need to play with this idea on photoshop.
Rob

[Chance48]

Wrencher, I'm interested. Plz get some detailed pics and measurements. How many cores and all that. What size are the inner cooler inlet/outlets? The mounts might be temporary. They are to soft for only having two of them. I gotta come up with something in the front for mounts and maybe add a rubber mount on each side about mid cab, under the door. That should firm things up but still be insulated and quiet. If that doesn't do it then solid mounts are in order.

47, lol....I felt the sarcasm and I don't know why I said 30 ft.! I guess I had a beer to many or something. It is gonna be around 21+ ft . As you know the visual balance on it will be a little awkward. You gotta like these trucks to like the look. With a 14 1/2ft bed and the axle pushed back a smidge its gonna be interesting to see how she turns out. In My mental picture it is badass, haha. Oh, and I'll sell it to ya... I'll give the wife your info and if I pass away unsuspectadly you can pick it up off of her...lol.

[Chance48]

*unexpectadly*

[Chance48]

ok, I looked at this forever trying to think of mounting the front end and finally snapped to it that I needed to install all my inner fender sheet metal first as this gives the structure....some structure. So, I fit everything, trimmed where needed. Everything firmed up nicely. Now I'll build my frame drops for the bumper and cross member . At that time I'll devise a simple front mount. It turned out good though. I shaved the bumper and got it back as far as it will go, hugging the fender. I'll leave a 1/4" gap. I think that's enough room for flexing and whatever may happen. I'll fill in the bumper gaps with 3/16" Steel welded directly to the bumper, I'm going to weld the bumper on solid and simply treat it as part of the frame, painting it black. Was gonna send it to chrome but that's a big ordeal and I'm happy with the bumper being black anyways.



Thought I was gonna have to do custom latches, turns out I can retro the originals!!



Well, photo bucket took a crap on me this morning. It won't let me copy links right now. I'll post my pics later.

Peace, Chance

[Dieselwrencher]

I went to measure that radiator and some one dropped a starter on the center and it's junk. Not too happy right now. Sorry, it won't do you much good now.

[47 Fasttoys]

Looks good Chance, I started my air bag set up for the front today, my front suspension looks similar to yours. I will post up some progress pics soon. Your steering hook up doesn't look to bad, maybe a double U-joint?
Rob

[Chance48]

No worries wrencher....that sucks, I'd be finding out who did that!!

Rob, I'll be checking out your thread to see how it's going with your bag setup. I might could get away with that on the steering but I think I'm gonna go with a shorty column so I can get a more comfortable angle on the wheel and also get the column up off the floor, then use a side winder gear box to drop down. I hate to drop that kinda coin on that but I think it's best long term solution.

[Dieselwrencher]

My COE had a mid 70's to early 80's chevy van tilt cut down. It worked pretty nice.

[SS_madness]

hello i have been looking for a coe 47 through 54 chevy or gmc like to find a 5 window not a deal breaker... any idea on where to look or go these days


happy thanksgiving

[Chance48]

SS, try hotrodgarage.net. He usually has something.

Chance

[SS_madness]

I wish i unerstood what you were doing.... Looks real good....OK SO I OOKED UP hotrodgarage.net DO YOU HAVE A LINK I CAN USE TO SRT8 THERE?......
WENT TO A GERMANY WEB SITE. THEN LOOKIED AGAIN SENT ME TO FACEBOOK.... WHAT SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR ? TY THAT BLUE COE IS SOMETHING HOW I WOULD DO MINE IF I HAD 1.. BUT ALL STOCK LIKE THE OLD RIMS GRANNY TRANS SLOW BUT POWER FUL MOVEMENT... I WANT TO TRY SO START SOMETHING GOING FOR ME NO WAY I CAN BUY SOMETHING NEW.... I NEED SOMETHING BIG LIKE A COE PERFECT NOW TRYING TO FIND 1 IN SO CAL IF I CHANGE THE THE CHASIS TO ANYTHING OTHER THEN STOCK IT WILL BE REGISTERED AS WHAT EVER THE FRAME IS IN THIS CASE NEWER IS NOT GOOD .
THATS WHY I NEED ALL STOCK..... IF THERE WAS A WAY TO KEEP THE STOCK STR8 6 CYLINDER EVEN BETTER GAS IS ALWAYS HIGHER HERE...

SAYING IT NOW...PLEASE AND THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME .

[Chance48]

Been peckin around on this thing a little lately. Got the front end mounting sorted, filled my bumper gap, finished the bumper mounts(decided to make bumper removable). Then, I made some phone calls in search of rad and intercooler. Called TCP, the guy informed me that using electric fans on the rad was a bad idea. The stock engine driven fan, at high working rpm' swill put out almost double the cfm's of two good 16" fans together. Which, will not cool the engine sufficiently , especially should I really use the truck. So...back to the drawing board I went. Only solution I could see was put engine under back half of cab so I could fit the rad infront of engine and use engine fan and I'll put the intercooler up front with electric fans on it. The tranny cooler and condenser will go infront of rad. 47fastoys suggested I go under the cab so props to him for foreseeing my future, haha. Now I don't have to move the axle and the drive shaft will be about 30" long. That's a plus, the truck will look better like this. The seat will be fun to figure out. Gonna be a 10" high engine house that will be same size as the seat . That gives about 5 inches of seat frame and cushion . I got a few ideas but if any of you got an idea speak up. I thought about using tractor seats. Good quality with the suspension and arm rests.....the tractor seats are thin, I just don't know how they will feel on a long road trip.

A few pics....
















Chance

[47 Fasttoys]

Looks good Chance. Dang that engine is tall. OK, a couple of questions; how are you setting your ride height? It's a good idea to remove your coil springs and build some adjustable rods to put in place of the shocks and then set the front suspension with the lower control arms parallel to the ground. Your cab may need to come up a little because once you put all the other stuff (interior, radiator, inter-cooler, turbos. steering, brakes etc.. those coils are going to settle a little. You also may want to adjust the rear suspension at the same time to give a rake of around 3 degrees. Some guys like a nice flat stance so rake or no rake is a matter of taste. What kind of final oil pan ground clearance are you looking for at normal ride height?
Not trying to tell you how to build your truck at all, just making sure you build it the way I want it for the future. LOL.
Love the tuck job on the front bumper, I may copy that at a later date.
One more thing, the 90s Silverado seat may work for you also. If you don't use the adjusters it's gonna be close to the 5" you are looking for.
Rob

[Chance48]

47, I'll try and find the seat in junk yard, thanks. Ok, here's the deal, because the engine is so tall I really can't go up anymore, or definitely don't want to anyways. I'm kinda setting all this up as suspension unloaded, guessing a couple inch drop from wieght. I've got the chassis setting level now. I like level but can always pop a little rake in there with no adverse effect. I've got the oil pan bout 1/2" above the running boards/steps. Ride height is 9" unloaded so I'm thinking a fully aired right height of 6-7" and a cruising height of around 5" and a fully aired out height of 1 1/2" or 2" roughly. I don't like the engine and rad and tranny brace that close to the ground but it's a hot rod hauler, it's gotta be low right? Haha. And, I can't really do anything about it, cuz raising the cab is outta the question, lol. Think I'm gonna build a skid plate/pan that will do two things....channel ram air from grill to rad/engine and also keep any little debris from kicking up into rad and condenser. I'd really like to have had my suspension sorted but I didn't realize the guy I got my 4 link and bags from would need two weeks or more to fab and ship. Called him and he nonshalantly said, oh yeah they'll be going out this week I think, in welding now...Jesus, I said!! So, I'm approaching this way. I think I'm right on the money with it and definitely close enough that no "major" adjustments will be needed.

I've said it before and I'll say it again....don't think I'll ever do a cummins/COE cross again!! Damn engine is just to big....bout 34" square is needed to put it in and that's not giving any wiggle room, not to mention its length aswell. I hope it's not like riding on top of a tornado like wild bill or something....that engine fan makes some serious noise when you bury the hammer. Think I'll build a double wall and insulate the **** outta it, inside and out, plus carpet...might keep it quiet enough in the cab?

Also, lucky I own a 2004 cummins aswell. After getting this engine mocked up, or prior better yet, I had to remove the turbo. In 2003 they changed the ex header and turbo location. I had a reference to look at. I've got a lead on a hardly used, out of a wrecked 04 , turbo and ex header. The 01 turbo was in the way and I was gonna have to figure a whole new cab mount for that back corner. The new 04 set up moves it to the back of the engine and down....major bullet dodged there!!

Any thoughts welcome Rob. This is my first build ever so something obvious could slip right by me. I spend a lot of time between each move, looking and thinking about the effect it may have down the line or looking for something I'm missing, like I almost missed that the engine and tranny needed offset to the drivers side 2"....it may take longer but I shouldn't have a lot of redo's, I hope, haha. But seriously, I appreciate your responses to my thread. I pulled a lot of inspiration and knowledge from your build. I'll be using the 90 degree hydro boost idea for sure.

I got a question. I'm gonna have to unbolt the rear axle to install the drive shaft aren't I? That would be a lot to make it so you cheat it back to set in the yoke. I'm probably sweating over nothing, but thinking ahead none the less, haha.

Maybe I should get a copy right, sorry.lol. I'll stop now....

Chance