1986 GMC Sierra Classic - Flatline

[LT7A]

Could you tell me a little more about the master cylinder incident? I wasn't aware of the fitting/grinding needed for them to work together correctly. Great updates on the truck! That interior seems like it would be a really nice combination of comfortable and cleanable. How do you like the seats after using them for a while? Sure looks sharp.

[Flatline454]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Could you tell me a little more about the master cylinder incident? I wasn't aware of the fitting/grinding needed for them to work together correctly. Great updates on the truck! That interior seems like it would be a really nice combination of comfortable and cleanable. How do you like the seats after using them for a while? Sure looks sharp.

I really like the seats, they are more supportive then the old bench. The old bench was almost squishy at times, this is just comfortable. It looks stiffer than it is.

With the master cylinder, they have big bore and small bore, different spider washers go into each of them. To fit the push rod between the master cylinder and hydroboost, you need to pull the spring and washer out. Leaving the push rod in you should have about 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the master cylinder and hydroboost. When I say gap, I mean between the two contact faces. If the gap is bigger, you will need to grind the push rod down, if you have no gap, you will need a new longer push rod.

In short, my rod was too long and when I really pushed on the brakes super hard, it sent **** flying. My pedal went to the floor and it got a bit sketchy real quick. haha

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Flatline454

I really like the seats, they are more supportive then the old bench. The old bench was almost squishy at times, this is just comfortable. It looks stiffer than it is.

With the master cylinder, they have big bore and small bore, different spider washers go into each of them. To fit the push rod between the master cylinder and hydroboost, you need to pull the spring and washer out. Leaving the push rod in you should have about 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the master cylinder and hydroboost. When I say gap, I mean between the two contact faces. If the gap is bigger, you will need to grind the push rod down, if you have no gap, you will need a new longer push rod.

In short, my rod was too long and when I really pushed on the brakes super hard, it sent **** flying. My pedal went to the floor and it got a bit sketchy real quick. haha

Thanks for the info.

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by Flatline454

In short, my rod was too long and when I really pushed on the brakes super hard, it sent **** flying. My pedal went to the floor and it got a bit sketchy real quick. haha

Absolutely zero brakes.... yeah.... that sounds sketchy.

I saw the truck down at Justin and Bob's shop the other day. It was good to see it out and about.

[Flatline454]

I was able to get some more work done on the truck.

I had scored a set of front 4" springs way back when, then I purchased a small braked Corp 14 bolt with brand new leaf packs, ORD shackles, and New U-bolts. I bought the new kevlar bushings from ORD for the front springs with greaseable bolts and the U-bolt reversal kit for the Corp 14 Bolt.

It is all supposed to be a 4" lift kit, but I think it looks higher. However, I love it and it is sitting the way I want with an entire new suspension under it. The tires are 35" Bigger LTB's on the XD wheels, that I got a while back. I have the center caps on the rear now, but still need to cut the center section out of the front ones.

Don't mind the Carolina squat in the one pic, I was tired and called it a night. haha