1972 Build thread.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Spf79

Quick update!!... and brakes are done.

Not very fun when doing them on loose backing plates. Although, way better than being inside of a wheel well when you are up on jackstands. Lol.

Other things....

I picked up my new gas tank, I need to have the neck out of my old one attached/soldered to this one still. Wondering if it may be easier to weld the neck off of the old tank to the end of the new one. The tank from LMC looks like it has one heck of a solder job on the inlet nozzle, I would assume that they will need to heat that tank up pretty good to get the new nozzle out. Im not excited about the finish on the tank being toast.

Also picked up my "new to me" tilt steering column. I need to clean it up and paint it... that will come later on down the road.

Lastly, I bought two cheap inner pinion bearings. The plan was to grind the inside of the bearings so that I could slide them off and on by hand therfore making the process of setting the backlash way easier. Unfortunately they gave me some weird bearing for my dana 44... so now I need to take that one back and get the correct one.

good progress, read up on tilts and tanks, some good info out there.

My new tank was brazed on, used a dremel cut off wheel to get rid of brazing, just kept grinding the gold til I got down to the silver. the nuts were another challenge. your old tank is easier as it is soldered on. Just cut it off with tin snips, start a hole with a sharp chisel and follow it up with the snips.

Tilt may require some special tools or creative thinking, the first thing you will take off is the turn signal cover, and some of them seem to be quite stuck, here is where you have to be creative on the puller, you don't want to distort the sheet metal
Next step, than you will run into is the pins that have to be pulled out. I made some threaded pullers with spacers out of long bolts and nuts of the correct thread size

also, the top nut that holds the upper bearing on was a goofy size

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

good progress, read up on tilts and tanks, some good info out there.

My new tank was brazed on, used a dremel cut off wheel to get rid of brazing, just kept grinding the gold til I got down to the silver. the nuts were another challenge. your old tank is easier as it is soldered on. Just cut it off with tin snips, start a hole with a sharp chisel and follow it up with the snips.

Tilt may require some special tools or creative thinking, the first thing you will take off is the turn signal cover, and some of them seem to be quite stuck, here is where you have to be creative on the puller, you don't want to distort the sheet metal
Next step, than you will run into is the pins that have to be pulled out. I made some threaded pullers with spacers out of long bolts and nuts of the correct thread size

also, the top nut that holds the upper bearing on was a goofy size

Yes sir! I have been reading a ton on here... I think any way you look at it the tank proceedure to switch necks does not look very fun. .

The tilt was supposedly gone through. Originally it was a van tilt. I still want to take it apart, clean it and paint it. Also check how the shaft was lengthened, hopefully with a coupling. If someone took the trouble to go through it... you would assume they would have painted the internals before reassembling? I guess I will find out soon enough. Lol. I read a tutorial on how to disassemble the tilt and it made my eye twitch.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Nice work. I'm on board.

Thank you! I'm glad to have you!!

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by kehstr

cool build subscribed!

Appreciate it! Thank you for following alonng!!

[My3Sons!]

Looks great, glad to see another local Washington build coming along nicely. I'm in Redmond.

[Spf79]

I finally got some time in the garage yesterday. I'm almost ready to get my carriers installed.
I ordered the Ratech install tools for the pinion depth. I hope to have those this week and then finish installing.

I have never installed bearing races before. Not very fun, but it is cool to learn how to do this stuff. The axle bearings and seals on the 12 bolt were easy. The inner seals on the dana 44 made my eye twitch. Lol. The inner pinion races are the devil. Smashing my hand with a 4lb sledge hammer didn't help my opinion on the inner races.

I finished up my dummy inner pinion bearings, and.... I was finally able to remove the bearings from the old pinions gears. I had to remove the bearing cages that held the roller bearings in place. This allowed me to get a good bite on the inner bearing housing. A couple weeks ago I broke part of my bearing puller when trying to remove the bearings from the outside of the cage.

[Spf79]

More pics...

I do need to point out that I bought the cheapest race instalation kit and bearing puller off of Amazon. Worth every penny.

[Spf79]

Last week I picked up my 205 transfer case from the mechanic that rebuilt it for me. $312.
The guy broke it apart, checked everything, replaced the bearings/seals and installed my new twin stick shifting rails. He even painted it! Special note! The mechanic was very impressed with J&B twin stick kit.

Have you ever not bothered telling someone something because you thought that there was no way someone would go above and beyond?

I was going to tell the mechanic not to bother painting the case because I was going to take care of it so I could keep the aluminum raw and not painted. I didn'the bother saying anything because there was no way he would paint it... right? Yup, that guy bead blasted and then painted it. so now I am in the process of stripping paint. Lol.

[Spf79]

Here is a funny one I thought I would share.

I had a guy tell me that I should put my races in the freezer before I install them. He said it would make it easier because they shrink when cold. The first race I installed was not cold and it was not going in for anything. I took a break from that one, had a beer and put all of the other races in the freezer. Once they were in there for a bit I tried a cold one, (not beer) and sure enough it went right in. I left the first one for last, once I came back to it I was still having a heck of a time.

I ended up using a can of compressed air, the stuff you use to clean out computer key boards... upside down so that it would spray cold. I did this twice and that thing popped right in easy peasy. The down side is that I got a mouthful of the gas, tasted horrible for like 20 mins.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by Spf79

Here is a funny one I thought I would share.

I had a guy tell me that I should put my races in the freezer before I install them. He said it would make it easier because they shrink when cold. The first race I installed was not cold and it was not going in for anything. I took a break from that one, had a beer and put all of the other races in the freezer. Once they were in there for a bit I tried a cold one, (not beer) and sure enough it went right in. I left the first one for last, once I came back to it I was still having a heck of a time.

I ended up using a can of compressed air, the stuff you use to clean out computer key boards... upside down so that it would spray cold. I did this twice and that thing popped right in easy peasy. The down side is that I got a mouthful of the gas, tasted horrible for like 20 mins.

I forgot the pics...

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by My3Sons!

Looks great, glad to see another local Washington build coming along nicely. I'm in Redmond.

Thanks buddy, I'm in Vancouver!

[hemi43]

The only difficult part about doing diffs is setting up the pinion depth. Actually, it's not difficult at all. You don't need any special depth setting tools or gauges because all this will do is over complicate things.
It looks like you damaged the original inner pinion bearing taking it off, so buy another one because they are cheap. Take this bearing and hone out the bore so that it slips on and off fairly easily on the pinion. You can also use an abrasive flap wheel to do this. You can now use this bearing for your setup to determine the shim pack needed for getting your proper pinion depth. Once you get a nice mesh pattern, take off the setup bearing and press on the new bearing that you got in your kit. Take your time crushing the collar until you get 15-20 in/lbs of resistance, then reinstall the carrier and set the backlash. I've done it like this for years and it makes the job so easy.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by hemi43

The only difficult part about doing diffs is setting up the pinion depth. Actually, it's not difficult at all. You don't need any special depth setting tools or gauges because all this will do is over complicate things.
It looks like you damaged the original inner pinion bearing taking it off, so buy another one because they are cheap. Take this bearing and hone out the bore so that it slips on and off fairly easily on the pinion. You can also use an abrasive flap wheel to do this. You can now use this bearing for your setup to determine the shim pack needed for getting your proper pinion depth. Once you get a nice mesh pattern, take off the setup bearing and press on the new bearing that you got in your kit. Take your time crushing the collar until you get 15-20 in/lbs of resistance, then reinstall the carrier and set the backlash. I've done it like this for years and it makes the job so easy.

Yes sir, same page! I did just that, I bought two extra bearings and honed them out in order to have dummy bearings. I have been watching YouTube videos like crazy and a couple guys swear that you have to have the proper depth on the pinion, and you have to have a gauge tell you. The ratech depth tools I bought are made for each specific axle. They measure of of the face of the pinion to the bottom of the carrier bearing seat. I found them on sale for $24 each, I figured it couldn't hurt. I am glad that you have been doing it with the dummy bearings with no problems, that makes me feel better. This is all new to me, so I need as much feedback as possible. Locally it was $600 to have a shop do the install per axle. I couldn't bring myself to do that so I figured this was a good time to learn.

[hemi43]

Most likely the shim thickness that you took out of the original pinion will be within a few thou of what you need. At least that's been my experience in the past. I can't recall if you mentioned that you were reusing the original gears or buying new, but my first choice is Yukon. Richmonds are a bit cheaper, but I guess you get what you pay for because I've had some sets squeal like a stuck pig even though the pattern was dead on. Good luck and keep posting pics.

edit; I guess I should have read your previous more thoroughly because I now realize you already made a setup bearing !

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Most likely the shim thickness that you took out of the original pinion will be within a few thou of what you need. At least that's been my experience in the past. I can't recall if you mentioned that you were reusing the original gears or buying new, but my first choice is Yukon. Richmonds are a bit cheaper, but I guess you get what you pay for because I've had some sets squeal like a stuck pig even though the pattern was dead on. Good luck and keep posting pics.

edit; I guess I should have read your previous more thoroughly because I now realize you already made a setup bearing !

I had read the same thing about the original shims getting you close enough. I have those shims in with the new pinions and dummy bearings awaiting for me to dump the carriers in place. I am going with new gears, I got rid of the original 3:07's in favor of 4:11's. Not sure if the original shims make a difference at this point since it is a different set of gears? I guess I will find out shortly. I went with G2 in the front and Motive in the rear. Hopefully they are of good quality. I have read good and bad about all brands... the problem is that you never know who to trust & the Internet is always right... right? Motive had a couple different grades of gears I opted for the more expensive set that had some kind of heat treatment since it was going in the rear. Probably a gimmick, but I own them now.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Most likely the shim thickness that you took out of the original pinion will be within a few thou of what you need. At least that's been my experience in the past. I can't recall if you mentioned that you were reusing the original gears or buying new, but my first choice is Yukon. Richmonds are a bit cheaper, but I guess you get what you pay for because I've had some sets squeal like a stuck pig even though the pattern was dead on. Good luck and keep posting pics.

edit; I guess I should have read your previous more thoroughly because I now realize you already made a setup bearing !

Thank you for taking the time to comment, I'm kind of flying blind here and reliant upon others knowledge and advice. I'm glad you are reinforcing the information I have picked up so far, it is reassuring.

Thank you again!

[jaros44sr]

Thanks guys for posting up, good info.

nice sturgeon, green or white?

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks guys for posting up, good info.

nice sturgeon, green or white?

The sturgeon was fun, that was a good day. White if I remember, but it has been a few years and I'm no expert on sturgeon.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Spf79

I had read the same thing about the original shims getting you close enough. I have those shims in with the new pinions and dummy bearings awaiting for me to dump the carriers in place. I am going with new gears, I got rid of the original 3:07's in favor of 4:11's. Not sure if the original shims make a difference at this point since it is a different set of gears? I guess I will find out shortly. I went with G2 in the front and Motive in the rear. Hopefully they are of good quality. I have read good and bad about all brands... the problem is that you never know who to trust & the Internet is always right... right? Motive had a couple different grades of gears I opted for the more expensive set that had some kind of heat treatment since it was going in the rear. Probably a gimmick, but I own them now.

My understanding is that Richmond and Motive are one and the same, but you'll have no issues. It's difficult to find out what's "best" by asking on the net because you never know who's giving you the info.
I also went from 3.07 to 4.11's to go with my 12.5X35 tires. I have a 5.3 with a 4L60E and couldn't have picked a better gear, because the truck is very responsive and gets excellent fuel economy.

Edit;FYI, I just checked both the Richmond website, as well as the Motive website and they are infact the same company. I recall a supplier telling me that the gears even come off the same manufacturing machines.

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by hemi43

My understanding is that Richmond and Motive are one and the same, but you'll have no issues. It's difficult to find out what's "best" by asking on the net because you never know who's giving you the info.
I also went from 3.07 to 4.11's to go with my 12.5X35 tires. I have a 5.3 with a 4L60E and couldn't have picked a better gear, because the truck is very responsive and gets excellent fuel economy.

Edit;FYI, I just checked both the Richmond website, as well as the Motive website and they are infact the same company. I recall a supplier telling me that the gears even come off the same manufacturing machines.

I am glad to hear that about the 4:11's, I almost went 3:73's so I could save money by not buying a new carrier for the front end. Everyone I talked to said 4:11's, so I let them twist my arm into a tru-trac locker for the front lol. I don't think I will get jack poop for mileage. Going old school 383 with a built th350 behind it... shooting for 9 m/g! Yes!!!

That is funny about them coming from the same manufacturing company. Thanks for the info, I just ran into this with Timken bearings and SKF seals being the same manufacturer. Seems like a waste of money from the marketing standpoint? At this point as long as I don't screw up the install and they don't go bang in the next ten years I will be satisfied.

Back to the 4:11's with 35's, how are you at 70mph? What is your RPMS?

[Spf79]

I'm still compiling parts that I am not ready for!

I picked up these stainless steel headers for my small block. Cheap at $250, they came with aluminum press style gaskets and a cheap set of header bolts.

I'm happy, the head flanges appear to be pretty thick compared to some of the cheap headers I have bought in the past.

I picked them up from a small auto shop in downtown Vancouver, Wa called "Line up and sound off" very nice people to work with.

Line Up & Sound Off (360) 906-8514

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by Spf79

I am glad to hear that about the 4:11's, I almost went 3:73's so I could save money by not buying a new carrier for the front end. Everyone I talked to said 4:11's, so I let them twist my arm into a tru-trac locker for the front lol. I don't think I will get jack poop for mileage. Going old school 383 with a built th350 behind it... shooting for 9 m/g! Yes!!!

That is funny about them coming from the same manufacturing company. Thanks for the info, I just ran into this with Timken bearings and SKF seals being the same manufacturer. Seems like a waste of money from the marketing standpoint? At this point as long as I don't screw up the install and they don't go bang in the next ten years I will be satisfied.

Back to the 4:11's with 35's, how are you at 70mph? What is your RPMS?

Why did you have to buy a new carrier for the front? 4.11's are available in a "thick" version that would bolt right in.
At 70 MPH I'm around 2100 RPM, but don't forget I have a 4L60E which has a 30% overdrive. I get a true 25 MPG (imperial) with my Blazer, and that's one of the reasons I used the 5.3
You won't screw up the gear install ! If you have a nice contact patch and the proper preload it will be perfect. Just take your time.:-)
BTW, I really like the item you used for reference to show the thickness of the header flange. That was very Canadian of you !!

[Spf79]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Why did you have to buy a new carrier for the front? 4.11's are available in a "thick" version that would bolt right in.
At 70 MPH I'm around 2100 RPM, but don't forget I have a 4L60E which has a 30% overdrive. I get a true 25 MPG (imperial) with my Blazer, and that's one of the reasons I used the 5.3
You won't screw up the gear install ! If you have a nice contact patch and the proper preload it will be perfect. Just take your time.:-)
BTW, I really like the item you used for reference to show the thickness of the header flange. That was very Canadian of you !!

At the time I was buying I did not fully understand the thick gears and their reasoning, and of course no shop is going to want to sell you less. Lol, once I got it in my head that it would be pretty cool to have the tru-trac carrier up front I was not looking for reasons to keep my old carrier. .

Yes, I was looking for something that would be easiest for most fellas to referemce. I guess it would make sense since I am of French Canadian decent!

[prorat56]

Hey I would Like to give my input on you building your rears (I do at least 20 rear diff overhauls and gear changes a year at my shop) Start with the original shims!, set your back lash then check your pattern. I don't own a depth gauge but I have used them and don't like them and think you will be chasing your tail. The gear marking compound will be your friend. Well that's my 2 cents and I hope this helps and makes your job a bit easier.

[hemi43]

And one more thing I've learned over the years is do not use synthetic gear lube because you will never get rid of the chatter regardless of how many bottles of additive you put in. On my Blazer I tried using Amsoil's synthetic gear lube because they claimed it was compatible. Well, they were wrong because it sounded like the rear diff was going to break in two. I gave it a few weeks hoping the noise would go away, but it never did. I drained it and put in standard gear lube and a couple bottles of GM limited slip additive, and the problem went away. That was an expensive mistake because Amsoil products aren't cheap.