SWB 4x4 was totaled. Now what? Can I get it back?

[Boog]

It could get real messy before its all said and done.
The wrecker company surely wont release any vehicles until he is paid. And the carrier still has legal possession by contract anyway.
The carriers insurance may not release any of them until they get what they want.
The carrier was paid to deliver your vehicle to NY which he hasnt so you are due a refund from them at the very least or for them to provide another carrier to complete the transport service at their expense then you work a fair settlement with their insurance company.
Lawyers may have to be involved to get a fair settlement for you.
It could take a while.
Even with Ryan willing to retrieve and hold the truck for you i dont believe that can happen due to the above reasons.
I sure hope it works out in your favor.

[Dieselwrencher]

I did go this morning and take pictures of the truck. It is no where near totaled. The owner of Barney's wasn't there but his secretary did let me view it with no questions at all. The truck is being stored inside and I'll let George decide if he wants to put the pics in the thread.

Back to the truck. In my opinion I'd be asking the insurance agent how they come to the conclusion that the truck is totaled. The canopy/topper probably saved the cab I'm guessing. The canopy took the worst of it and it probably is kaput. But, it probably could be repaired.

I was expecting to walk in to find a half smashed 1970 K10. Instead, the truck looks like the picture on page 2, except with some dents, and a partially messed up canopy. The grill did get dented up on the RH side and on the top about 5-6" away from the RH fender. Hood is ok. RH fender is dented just behind the grill pretty bad. The roof skin has some dents and creases above the passenger door, and the drip rail has a crease in it. The RH bed side has a big dent and crease, accompanied by some smaller dents in it. The canopy roof has some creases, dents, and the top is pushed over to the LH side about 1-2" or so. The cab doors still open and shut like a typical 70 chevy. The A-pillars look fine and the door gaps look like they are a normal factory gap. (Except where the drip rail is creased) The hood still opens and closes fine. The air cleaner is off the truck, (It is in the cab) but they probably did that before starting the engine to make sure it was ok to start. IMO a good sheet metal guy can save the roof skin, bed skin, and piece a front of a fender on the fender, get rid of the ugly ford mirrors, and the truck is almost back to it's formy glory.

IMO if George could get an awesome sheet metal man, like Robert (MP&C), to write an estimate of what the metal repairs would cost. Present that to the insurance adjuster and work an agreed settlement with them. I'm not certain how they do vehicles this old as far as totaled value. On the newer stuff I think the damaged value has to be 55-75% of the vehicle's value to place it in the totaled margin. I've definitely fixed worse and would drive this truck the way it is IMO again. Hopefully George can get this taken care of and make a bad situation a good one with some time.

[67ChevyRedneck]

That's great to hear (well, read)!

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

IMO if George could get an awesome sheet metal man, like Robert (MP&C), to write an estimate of what the metal repairs would cost. Present that to the insurance adjuster and work an agreed settlement with them.

Kudos to Dieselwrencher for helping out a fellow board member!

I agree with presenting the adjuster a settlement. These guys are used to being able to punch in a make and model to get not only undamaged value but also prices of parts, labor cost to install those parts and work up how much it'll cost to fix fairly quickly and easily. The adjuster wants business as usual, cut a check for you, and another for the tow and the storage fees, nice and easy.

Present them with a settlement that's easy and they'll likely bite. If Dieselwrencher is willing to store it and you can arrange transport to you that cuts down on their storage costs and makes it easier for them. Don't be wishy washy, be clear on the terms whatever they may be. Personally I'd tell them "I found a place it can be stored until I arrange transport. You pay for the tow there, cut me a check and it's case closed for you guys."

The other thing to remember is today's auto body climate with regards to collision repair on newer vehicles. More often than not panels are just replaced as labor costs to beat out a dent, then body fill, then prime costs too much. So work with him a bit and present the costs of a new fender, new grill, new bedside and the adjuster can add installation and paint to that cost. It doesn't matter if you end up buying new parts or fixing the originals the goal is to get him to cut a fair check for you and the storage fees.

Double check your transport contract as there might be some kind of contingency to get your vehicle to its destination in cases like this. Kind of doubt it though. If not get on the phone with your credit card company (I assume that's how you paid) and get them to reverse these charges. Good Luck!

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I did go this morning and take pictures of the truck. It is no where near totaled. The owner of Barney's wasn't there but his secretary did let me view it with no questions at all. The truck is being stored inside and I'll let George decide if he wants to put the pics in the thread.

Back to the truck. In my opinion I'd be asking the insurance agent how they come to the conclusion that the truck is totaled. The canopy/topper probably saved the cab I'm guessing. The canopy took the worst of it and it probably is kaput. But, it probably could be repaired.

I was expecting to walk in to find a half smashed 1970 K10. Instead, the truck looks like the picture on page 2, except with some dents, and a partially messed up canopy. The grill did get dented up on the RH side and on the top about 5-6" away from the RH fender. Hood is ok. RH fender is dented just behind the grill pretty bad. The roof skin has some dents and creases above the passenger door, and the drip rail has a crease in it. The RH bed side has a big dent and crease, accompanied by some smaller dents in it. The canopy roof has some creases, dents, and the top is pushed over to the LH side about 1-2" or so. The cab doors still open and shut like a typical 70 chevy. The A-pillars look fine and the door gaps look like they are a normal factory gap. (Except where the drip rail is creased) The hood still opens and closes fine. The air cleaner is off the truck, (It is in the cab) but they probably did that before starting the engine to make sure it was ok to start. IMO a good sheet metal guy can save the roof skin, bed skin, and piece a front of a fender on the fender, get rid of the ugly ford mirrors, and the truck is almost back to it's formy glory.

IMO if George could get an awesome sheet metal man, like Robert (MP&C), to write an estimate of what the metal repairs would cost. Present that to the insurance adjuster and work an agreed settlement with them. I'm not certain how they do vehicles this old as far as totaled value. On the newer stuff I think the damaged value has to be 55-75% of the vehicle's value to place it in the totaled margin. I've definitely fixed worse and would drive this truck the way it is IMO again. Hopefully George can get this taken care of and make a bad situation a good one with some time.

Hello Ryan, Thanks for such a complete assessment. If you would like to post photos that would be fine with me. I guess it would be educational for all of us. Can you tell me who Robert (MPand C) is? I think you have some good ideas about what to be done so I will try to follow through and get an evaluation of repair costs. Thanks again, George

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

Kudos to Dieselwrencher for helping out a fellow board member!

I agree with presenting the adjuster a settlement. These guys are used to being able to punch in a make and model to get not only undamaged value but also prices of parts, labor cost to install those parts and work up how much it'll cost to fix fairly quickly and easily. The adjuster wants business as usual, cut a check for you, and another for the tow and the storage fees, nice and easy.

Present them with a settlement that's easy and they'll likely bite. If Dieselwrencher is willing to store it and you can arrange transport to you that cuts down on their storage costs and makes it easier for them. Don't be wishy washy, be clear on the terms whatever they may be. Personally I'd tell them "I found a place it can be stored until I arrange transport. You pay for the tow there, cut me a check and it's case closed for you guys."



The other thing to remember is today's auto body climate with regards to collision repair on newer vehicles. More often than not panels are just replaced as labor costs to beat out a dent, then body fill, then prime costs too much. So work with him a bit and present the costs of a new fender, new grill, new bedside and the adjuster can add installation and paint to that cost. It doesn't matter if you end up buying new parts or fixing the originals the goal is to get him to cut a fair check for you and the storage fees.

Double check your transport contract as there might be some kind of contingency to get your vehicle to its destination in cases like this. Kind of doubt it though. If not get on the phone with your credit card company (I assume that's how you paid) and get them to reverse these charges. Good Luck!

All good advice. I contacted the transport broker and she will set up the next ride at no additional cost. And I won't have to pay the carrier for the ride from Nevada to Iowa since they did not complete the deal. Now all I have to do is just get my truck back, get some money, arrange transport from Iowa to NYS-- and thank Ryan (Dieselwrencher) for checking everything out on the ground for me!!!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by georgieb51

Hello Ryan, Thanks for such a complete assessment. If you would like to post photos that would be fine with me. I guess it would be educational for all of us. Can you tell me who Robert (MPand C) is? I think you have some good ideas about what to be done so I will try to follow through and get an evaluation of repair costs. Thanks again, George

George, here is a link for Robert's user profile. I'd have to say Robert is an absolute miracle worker when it comes to sheet metal, body work, and he is a great guy! PM him and maybe he can get you some numbers on fixing the sheet metal. Fixing the original stuff would be the best bet. He'll be able to tell you if the roof skin is worth repairing it or if it needs replacement. That info will help you barter with the adjuster.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...r.php?u=122218

[Dieselwrencher]

Ok, here goes. The pictures of George's supposedly totaled 1970 K10.

[Dieselwrencher]

Some more. This was a nice find by George. Very little rust through. I didn't crawl way up under, but the LH rocker looked to be the only part rotted through.

[Dieselwrencher]

Round 3.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm guessing those wheels weren't in the bed of the truck during the roll over?

[flashed]

Nowhere near a total thank goodness ,good luck George .

[saxart]

This is an excellent thread, thanks to the great forum members here helping the owner.

Question for the original poster: Have you tried getting an accident report from the local authorities where the accident happened? There may be some info in that which could be used as leverage to "motivate" someone to repair your truck "a little quicker".

[67ChevyRedneck]

Wow, as long as the insurance company doesn't "total" the truck, I think I'd actually be happy with the original 5K offer after seeing the pics.

I see all fixable damage without replacing panels, although it would probably make more sense to swap the PS fender with a good OEM one.

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Wow, as long as the insurance company doesn't "total" the truck, I think I'd actually be happy with the original 5K offer after seeing the pics.

I see all fixable damage without replacing panels, although it would probably make more sense to swap the PS fender with a good OEM one.

Redneck, I am tending to agree with you. I think the reason they called it totalled is because they valued the truck at $6,000. and said it would cost $5,500. to fix. In that case I can see what they mean. But in actuality this truck books for more than $12,000. on NADA and that would mean that repairs are less than 1/2 the cost of the value. I was told "ACV (Actual Cash Value) is only $6,000.). That is where I totally disagree with the adjuster. I just don't know how to get him to agree with that. If he would just give me my truck back and also pay me $5,500. I would be OK. Does that sound OK? Or am I missing something?
I truly appreciate all you folks writing in here. You offer valuable advice. I will also see about contacting Robert tomorrow. Gotta get some sleep.--George

[57taskforce]

From the pictures I don't see a reason any of those panels need replaced. The metal in these trucks has a good "memory" if you will, and Id bet that they can be worked back into place. Paint match will be the fun part of it all.

[Already Gone]

I've seen SWB 4 x 4's trucks on Craigslist with wubbies and dents like on your truck and they ask 8/10,000 for them.

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

From the pictures I don't see a reason any of those panels need replaced. The metal in these trucks has a good "memory" if you will, and Id bet that they can be worked back into place. Paint match will be the fun part of it all.

I can see the right bed could be reworked but there will still be bondo in it. And I could see how the fender could be patched--but there seem to be good used fenders out there for the right price. I just wonder how you fix the roof since it is a double-wall construction. Perhaps it could be pulled out by the right guy? I was hoping to use it with its original paint because I prefer original paint but I guess that pan has changed. I also really like that caravan/topper. It may not see too cool, but it was an honest original part of this truck's life in the Nevada desert. I was told by the owner that this caravan was advertised as made of steel and being able to protect you in case of a rollover. I guess it did.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by georgieb51

Redneck, I am tending to agree with you. I think the reason they called it totalled is because they valued the truck at $6,000. and said it would cost $5,500. to fix. In that case I can see what they mean. But in actuality this truck books for more than $12,000. on NADA and that would mean that repairs are less than 1/2 the cost of the value. I was told "ACV (Actual Cash Value) is only $6,000.). That is where I totally disagree with the adjuster. I just don't know how to get him to agree with that. If he would just give me my truck back and also pay me $5,500. I would be OK. Does that sound OK? Or am I missing something?
I truly appreciate all you folks writing in here. You offer valuable advice. I will also see about contacting Robert tomorrow. Gotta get some sleep.--George

Have you expressed that to them? That you're OK with the amount to repair the damages, but you just disagree with the value and don't want the truck "totaled." If you're good with the check I don't see why they would care if they bump the value to say $8K? so it's not longer totaled??? If it would get the case closed and off their desk, I would think they would work with you if you're good with the check.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by georgieb51

I can see the right bed could be reworked but there will still be bondo in it. And I could see how the fender could be patched--but there seem to be good used fenders out there for the right price. I just wonder how you fix the roof since it is a double-wall construction. Perhaps it could be pulled out by the right guy? I was hoping to use it with its original paint because I prefer original paint but I guess that pan has changed. I also really like that caravan/topper. It may not see too cool, but it was an honest original part of this truck's life in the Nevada desert. I was told by the owner that this caravan was advertised as made of steel and being able to protect you in case of a rollover. I guess it did.

Any good bodyshop should be able to pull that with a stud gun. Again Im only going on what I see from the pictures. In person could be a whole other story. There will be some mud in it, but it wont be much at all if done correctly, by someone who has a lot of time in the trade. Paint will obviously only have to be matched in the affected areas, and it should be able to be blended fairly well.

[Dieselwrencher]

That RH fender might be able to be straightened, but time versus cost for another rust free oem would be a toss up IMO. I was just so glad not to see a blazer type cab when I got there. (Half flat)

[special-K]

Hey Georgie, yes the K is for my interest in these 4wds. What I meant is the insurance company sees a way to recoup the losses of the other vehicles with the good salvage money they'd get out of your truck...and that was when we thought it was totalled! Now I see and am sure this insurance company wants that truck bad. They are playing the old truck not worth much card and you need to call them on it. Time to talk about how the insurance commission will feel when they hear this. This is total insurance company BS. To them all the damaged vehicles and carrier are one big claim #XYX-OU81. To the insured this is one big claim, too. But to you, the victim, it is only about your truck and what this situation is costing the insurance company is no concern of yours at all.

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Have you expressed that to them? That you're OK with the amount to repair the damages, but you just disagree with the value and don't want the truck "totaled." If you're good with the check I don't see why they would care if they bump the value to say $8K? so it's not longer totaled??? If it would get the case closed and off their desk, I would think they would work with you if you're good with the check.

Good morning 67 Chevy Redneck. What you are saying is what I am going to be doing today. I do face a few obstacles. For one thing this adjuster has two phones and does not answer them--but I leave him messages. The same thing goes for emails. I have two emails in to him right now and he does not reply. I wish there was a way around him but he has been with this company for 17 years and he is now a "Senior Adjuster". But I will keep trying. I am a reasonable guy and I just want to move on. Thanks, George

[georgieb51]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That RH fender might be able to be straightened, but time versus cost for another rust free oem would be a toss up IMO. I was just so glad not to see a blazer type cab when I got there. (Half flat)

You are right. I do not need to make this into a blazer. Your pictures are a bit disturbing because they remind me of what the truck was once like, but on the other hand things are not as bad as the adjuster made it out to be. Also, I have been meaning to ask what it means to be a "Team Member"?

[67ChevyRedneck]

This is just me looking at the pics, but I don't think the truck has original paint. Everywhere there appears to be paint flecks missing there looks to be gray primer underneath? The most obvious spot is the damaged bedside, but I can't tell if that's paint transfer from the trailer or paint cracked off from the damage?

Even on the firewall there appears to be a large paint chip with gray behind it?

Again, could just be the pics, I just can't tell, but almost every "out west" truck ever posted with original paint has some kind of paint wear through somewhere where the original red oxide or black primer is showing. This truck is so clean and straight (even with the damage) she deserves a clean repaint, especially if it's not original