25 gallon Fuel tank in a SWB?

[Slowguy]

according to this power is grey and signal is purple. I guess I'll bump the grey with 12v and listen.

http://www.pilotautomotive.com/pdfs/...n%20sheets.pdf

[prodjay10]

You can also ohm it out. Make the float move and see if the ohms move around.
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[leland]

Sorry to bring this post back from beyond lmao, but did either of you slowguy or hooperca ever put the bed back on. I put this fuel tank in years ago and I'm just getting around to finishing up the suspension and I had to put a track bar in which my tank was in the way so I had to move it back like you guys have however the other issue I'm running into is the back brace directly under the tailgate sits about an inch and a half under the frame and it sits on the edge of the tank I'll try to get some photos

[Slowguy]

I had the tank all setup and actually running the truck. It actually sat a little high with that hump where the fuel pump sits. It interferes with a cross brace. So, long story short, I ended up going a completely different route and mounted a 67 Camaro tank with a built in pump - it came as a kit. This way I would also not have to cut into my freshly painted bed floor.

[leland]

This is the first brace. But now I have to move the tank back

[Slowguy]

Yep. If I recall the very back brace may have interfered a little as well. BTW I have a brand new tank, pump basket, and pump just sitting on the shelf now!

[SCOTI]

I saw this thread & started reading the posts. Two things....

I would be concerned w/no rear x-member somewhat protecting the tank. Sure you still have the bumper but it seems a bumper + rear x-member would be better. Suburban's DO have that protection.

I was also wondering how the bed was going to mount up. It's common to have to clearance one of the bed floor support channels when swapping in a Blazer tank but the sending unit & fittings are not dead center either. Taking that much material out of the floor support channel will allow the floor to sink w/a decent amount of weight. Climb into the bed, stand/walk near center, & the floor will touch the tank. Again. w/the Burb stuff in the middle that's not a good idea. Then there's the pesky overhang after the rear-most bed floor support. Seems that would be an issue as well?

[leland]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I saw this thread & started reading the posts. Two things....

I would be concerned w/no rear x-member somewhat protecting the tank. Sure you still have the bumper but it seems a bumper + rear x-member would be better. Suburban's DO have that protection.

I was also wondering how the bed was going to mount up. It's common to have to clearance one of the bed floor support channels when swapping in a Blazer tank but the sending unit & fittings are not dead center either. Taking that much material out of the floor support channel will allow the floor to sink w/a decent amount of weight. Climb into the bed, stand/walk near center, & the floor will touch the tank. Again. w/the Burb stuff in the middle that's not a good idea. Then there's the pesky overhang after the rear-most bed floor support. Seems that would be an issue as well?

I hear you I'm just wanting a tank that can hold at least 25 gallons that I can put in the back as I have a turboed LS and I'm going to be running e85 so I really need the extra gallons and I want an in-tank pump but I also do not want to spend $800 on a boyd tank lol I'm not going to be putting much weight back there anyways as it's a cruiser / street truck

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by leland

I hear you I'm just wanting a tank that can hold at least 25 gallons that I can put in the back as I have a turboed LS and I'm going to be running e85 so I really need the extra gallons and I want an in-tank pump but I also do not want to spend $800 on a boyd tank lol I'm not going to be putting much weight back there anyways as it's a cruiser / street truck

No weight = eliminating one of the concerns. Mounting the bed requires a solution @ the end of the rails & you're still @ serious risk having minimal tank protection in the event of rear collision (as rare as that is).

[Refuse1]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

I had the tank all setup and actually running the truck. It actually sat a little high with that hump where the fuel pump sits. It interferes with a cross brace. So, long story short, I ended up going a completely different route and mounted a 67 Camaro tank with a built in pump - it came as a kit. This way I would also not have to cut into my freshly painted bed floor.

So Slowguy.......How did you end up mounting the Camero tank and where does the fuel filler/cap end up ?

Can I ask where you ended up purchasing the tank ?

Thanks,

[Richard]

Fitted a 31 gal Blazer tank to my SWB 4x4. Crossmember/tank fitting starts on page #4 about post #99 in my build thread.

[Slowguy]

Originally Posted by Refuse1

So Slowguy.......How did you end up mounting the Camero tank and where does the fuel filler/cap end up ?

Can I ask where you ended up purchasing the tank ?

Thanks,

Sure. I'll get you some pics. I just really liked not having to cut a bunch of stuff out, and cut through my beautiful new bed floor The fitment of the camaro tank worked out pretty slick - although the fill my be a little bit of a pain because how high the filler neck sits (it's behind a hinged license plate door.)

Here's where I got mine: https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/69...lth-fuel-tank/

Boyds tank is about the same, but that put me right back where i started cutting holes through the bed floor or buying a super expensive filler plate for the tail light

[leland]

Originally Posted by Richard

Fitted a 31 gal Blazer tank to my SWB 4x4. Crossmember/tank fitting starts on page #4 about post #99 in my build thread.

The nice thing with 4x4 you can move it forward alot. This tank had to move back so far cause the cpp trac bar is really close to the tank.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by leland

The nice thing with 4x4 you can move it forward alot. This tank had to move back so far cause the cpp trac bar is really close to the tank.

Being a SWB I do not see a way to move it forward without clearance issues. If you look at my thread I actually added almost 4" of length to the frame rails for my longer springs and the new rear crossmember that mounts the tank is real close to the end of frame rails. Stock full bump position would be hard to obtain with the Blazer tank I used. My full bump position is a bit higher than stock due to tire size so it does not matter to me. I ended up putting a relief in the skid plate to clear the diff even with my tank as far back as it is. Granted I used the 31 gallon tank. Not sure if the front to back dimensions are the same as the 25 gallon.

[jocko]

Have you considered rounding off or tapering the lower horizontal portion of the c-channel (see post 41, 3rd pic)? Apologize, first time I've seen this thread, but I too would be concerned with a rear impact. I'd also be concerned with a rear quarter impact - that's a very sharp exposed corner of the c-channel that could potentially puncture the tank in a rear quarter impact. You've done really nice work and, trust me, I hate it when folks throw in ideas at the tail end of one of my projects, especially after a lot of hard work - but considering that lotsa members may follow your lead - seems worthwhile to discuss potential safety issues.