67 SWB First Build

[Scurry67]

Well I started sanding on the passenger door. It went pretty smooth for the most part, just time consuming. Today I decided to swap out driver side doors. The one I had planned on using just seemed to be a bit too much work and it also didn't match the passenger door, as I think it is a '72 door with the extra screw hole by the wing window. So instead I started stripping the paint on another driver door I had. I played around with fitting it and I think it should work pretty good. I'll continue stripping it then hang the matching fender and start body fill filler. I figure this will help me with my panel gaps.

[TA_C10]

Scurry nice progress! Looking good. I'm dreading all the paint prep I have coming...

Originally Posted by a.c.ward

when doing our builds, we prep as if for paint, Direct To Metal (DTM) primer, then color match exterior paint with Raptor Liner.

The picture shows the underside of the hood and the front fenders, but we do the bottom of the cab, underside of bed, underside front fenders, and wheel tubs in the back the same way.

AC Ward, seeing your hood advice makes me wonder do you fill the gaps between the hood skin and the supports? What do you put in there to both level it nicely and also stop the wobble? Someone mentioned to me a while back about this and sure enough I looked at my hood and it wobbles like crazy and he said use the black window sealer they use on modern windshields. Said I could level it first with paint sticks while putting that sealer between the skin and supports.

Thanks.

[a.c.ward]

I used 3M 08693 Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive, here is the link from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Uret...window+sealant

Check with local mom and pop auto glass installers, because they buy in bulk, I talked to my glass guy, and basically about 1/3 of Amazon price. I used two tubes, one per side, I had the hood on and opening and closing nicely, didn't have motor or trans in, so, I got inside engine bay, started filling the channel up with adhesive, and let it partially cure. while it was still soft, I used several new razor blades to trim the excess off, and left it undisturbed for several days to fully cure.

not a real good picture, but the black lines on the ribs are the trimmed sealer. hope this helps

[TA_C10]

Wicked hinge setup A.C., and thanks for the detail

Sorry to hijack thread scurry but look, we have more work to do lol

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by a.c.ward

I used 3M 08693 Auto Glass Urethane Windshield Adhesive, here is the link from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Uret...window+sealant

Check with local mom and pop auto glass installers, because they buy in bulk, I talked to my glass guy, and basically about 1/3 of Amazon price. I used two tubes, one per side, I had the hood on and opening and closing nicely, didn't have motor or trans in, so, I got inside engine bay, started filling the channel up with adhesive, and let it partially cure. while it was still soft, I used several new razor blades to trim the excess off, and left it undisturbed for several days to fully cure.

not a real good picture, but the black lines on the ribs are the trimmed sealer. hope this helps

Not to hijack this thread, but where did you get the hood hinge kit?

Trucks looks great!!!

[a.c.ward]

not a kit, followed LFD how to : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=218253

about the only difference in what LFD did and mine was that I fully welded everything, and eliminated the "risers" for the hinge to hood.

my build "enjoy the show" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=776475&page=2

[Scurry67]

A.C. Ward - thanks for the post on the hood. Definitely makes me realize there are so many little detail items I'll need to address on my build, too.

Soooo I completely stripped the outer skin on the driver door and then I found some bad news...The previous owner had repainted the door and in the process used a TON of body filler below the door handle. The door had a pretty gnarly dent in it. And that was only half the problem. The outer skin seemed to be a replacement panel and was very thin metal. The area where the dent was had a nasty "oil canning" issue. Needless to say, after about an hour trying to fix the dent and oil canning I decided to go a different route.

I have a set of doors from an old '69 I picked up in high school. The doors were pretty dang rough so I never thought about using them. Low and behold the outer skin on the driver door was original and in fairly good shape other than a little rust in the lower corner (easy patch). Next thing you know I cut that skin off the door and plan on swapping it over to the good inner door skin.

Hoping to continue the repair this weekend.

Al

Time wasted stripping original door

The jacked up '69 door hinge area. This area and the inner door skin were all rusted out/dented

This is the worst spot on the outer skin

With the door skins separated it should give me a great opportunity to clean up and coat the inside of the door

[TA_C10]

Nice having the skins off for the cleanup reason... I still have the original doors with OEM rubber liner spray crap on them and am still trying to figure out how I will be able to get that stuff off...

It's extra work replacing the skins but going to be well worth it.


.

[kev2809]

nice progress...

ill be following along..

[Scurry67]

Originally Posted by kev2809

nice progress...

ill be following along..

Appreciate it! Thanks for following along

[Scurry67]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Nice having the skins off for the cleanup reason... I still have the original doors with OEM rubber liner spray crap on them and am still trying to figure out how I will be able to get that stuff off...

It's extra work replacing the skins but going to be well worth it.


.

I will say that removing the liner was not fun. I found a thread on here that said diesel would soften it up and allow it to be scraped off. So I gave it a go this weekend. Took a couple soaks but I finally got it!

[Scurry67]

Aside from removing the undercoating from the door skin, I removed as much rust as I could from both the inner and outer skins. Then I sprayed the panels down with some rust Mort. After letting that do its thing, I wiped the panels down with some soap and water to neutralize the product.

Removing rust from inner skin

Sprayed inner panel with rust mort

Removed and patched the lower corner on the outer skin that was rusted through

Both the inner and outer skins after applying the rust mort. I really like that product.

And just to be sure I won't have any future rust issues with the door, I gave it a real good coating of Por15.

[Scurry67]

I had today off so I spent a portion of the day in the shop while my wife was at work.

Started off by working on piecing the two skins together. I was very cautious when bending the flange as to not mess up the edges. I did this by backing the panel with a dolly and using visescripts/screwdriver to bend the flange up. It was quite the process, but I only had to do one side and the bottom.

The fit was super tight so to increase my odds of not fudging it up, I slightly trimmed up the side flange on the inner skin. Then using a rubber mallet and long dolly, I slowly tapped the outer skin into place.

A screwdriver was also used to help slip the outer skin over the inner skin flange. After an hour and a half I had the skins joined together.

Prior to securing the panels together, I test fit the door to make sure it fit alright. It checked out pretty good.

After the check, I used a hammer and dolly to slowly bend the flange back into place.

Turned out pretty good. Was pretty stoked that I was able to do this repair. Last thing it needs is some spot welds.

[Scurry67]

The last thing I did today was start stripping the old paint on the outer skin with the DA. Made sure to go slow to prevent any warping. Also welded up the old mirror holes. All in all, it was a very productive last couple of days. Next on the list is to finish stripping the door and get it in some epoxy primer and then get going on the body filler. Onward and upward!



Al

[Andyking1203]

So the diesel works on removen the factory undercoat crap on the inside of the doors!!? Also how long does that rust mort stuff take to work? And is it a thick product or could it be sprayed up into the roof? Thanks

[Scurry67]

Originally Posted by Andyking1203

So the diesel works on removen the factory undercoat crap on the inside of the doors!!? Also how long does that rust mort stuff take to work? And is it a thick product or could it be sprayed up into the roof? Thanks

It did work pretty good. It took some elbow grease to scrape it off but the diesel does a good job softening it up. I did a little bit with soaking it in WD40 too and that also worked.

I left the rust mort on for 24 hours. It's a liquid product. I put it in a spray bottle and went to town with it. I used it between the roof skins also. I think it's important to wipe it down real good/neutralize it if you plan on putting any coating over it. Otherwise it'll mess with the paint/body filler bonding.

Also if you do use it, I recommend wearing gloves, glasses and a respirator. It's some pretty potent stuff. Does a real nice job though.

[Andyking1203]

Nice, I'm gonna try the diesel/wd40 thing for my doors.. also gonna try to find the rust mort stuff for in between the roof panels.. thanks

[TA_C10]

How are you handling your POR-15? Keeping it from drying up on you?

Progress is looking real good. Nice work on the door skin

[Scurry67]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

How are you handling your POR-15? Keeping it from drying up on you?

Progress is looking real good. Nice work on the door skin

I put some Saran wrap between the lid and the can. Then I store it in a fridge in my shop. Not sure if that makes a difference, that's just what my dad does haha.

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

How are you handling your POR-15? Keeping it from drying up on you?

Progress is looking real good. Nice work on the door skin

I keep mine in a zip lock bag... no issues yet

[jojo-munson]

Cool build! Subbed for the ride.

And of course, Go Cougs!

[Scurry67]

Originally Posted by jojo-munson

Cool build! Subbed for the ride.

And of course, Go Cougs!

Go Cougs! I was just down in Pullman last weekend visiting my family. Bet you're enjoying all of that snow haha

[Scurry67]

Made some progress the last week or so.
Awhile back I started stripping my tailgate when I noticed it was bowed in the middle. At the time I said screw it, and started looking for a new one... But next thing you know I have it all cut apart and trying to fix it. I was able to hammer out a lot of dings with it split. Then l cleaned up the rust, got some rust mort on it, and Por15'd it. Will do a little more dolly work before I put it back together.

Also was able to spray a coat of primer on the door I repaired. Hopefully get some more body filler going this week.

There are a TON of spot welds in a tailgate

Cut in half. Makes me realize that when I used rust mort before it was cut open, I hardly got any of it haha

Por 15'd it. Looks a lot better than before.

Door is looking solid too

[Getter-Done]

Good Idea on the Tailgate.
Looking good.

[TA_C10]

Looking good, keep up the pics!