53 3100 - complete rebuild and upgrade . . . .

[joedoh]

you have something going on with your running boards that I just noticed..



if you look at your before picture, the running board is tucked up against the rocker. this shouldnt be, there should be a 1-1.5" gap that is filled by a running board seal. in fact, if you compare how the running board attaches to the bottom of the rear fender but in the front has a 1-1.5 piece of the front fender hanging down, you can see what I mean. it looks like the whole bed/apron/running board got moved up to close that gap that usually has the running board seal in it.


what I cant figure out, is you have a stock cab on a stock frame with stock running boards mounts, and the gap is still gone.



so I am a little confused. in any event, if you lower the running boards that 1-1.5" for the seal, you will be closer to your 2" lowering goal right away.


gorgeous work too!

[big_dan]

joedoh -

The truck had some panel alignment issues originally, mainly the cab was nosed down a bit which threw the hood and nose off. As for the running boards, they're fiberglass re-pops that I just have sitting on the brackets with a block under them right now, so that's what you're probably seeing. I'll get it dialed in a bit more later -

Thanks for looking -

Dan

[big_dan]

Here you go, joedoh, - this should straighten it out. Leveled the cab dead nut, set the running board on and leveled it as well. All that being said, that sets the bottom of the running board exactly 7" off the ground - WAY too high for my plans, so it'll have to go lower. My goal is 4"-5" running board to ground.

Thanks for looking -

Dan

[joedoh]

ahhh I get it now!

I will have to measure mine, I was thinking I set at 6" front of the running boards and 7" rear of the boards. I found that going lower than that LOOKED AMAZING but with the rake, the bottom of the front bumper would scrape the crown of some of the older asphalt roads around here haha.

here is a vid of my 47 gmc, set at 4.5" front 5.5" rear, click the pic to play

IMG_4809 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

[big_dan]

Well, a busy morning trying to get this body mockup complete. Went a little slow since I was solo this morning, but I think it's mocked up enough to get an idea. After studying on it a bit, I'm leaning towards leaving it where it is for height. This will have the top of the cab around 68" and the bed rail roughly 38", with around 6" from the running board to the ground. Since I drive my stuff HARD, much lower might be an issue. Plus, I might have driveshaft room this way - much lower it'll be tunnel time.

More later - headed to the woods -

Dan.

[mongocanfly]

Good luck in the woods..!!....nice mock up...
is it camera angle or is the rear fake tire a little forward of centered in the wheel well?

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Good luck in the woods..!!....nice mock up...
is it camera angle or is the rear fake tire a little forward of centered in the wheel well?

Mongo - It is a little forward; I thought so too. Keep in mind the bed isn't mounted permanently yet, and the 4- link has an easy 1" of adjustment also.

Dan

[mongocanfly]

Ahhhhhn.....10-4

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I was thinking I set at 6" front of the running boards and 7" rear of the boards. I found that going lower than that LOOKED AMAZING but with the rake, the bottom of the front bumper would scrape the crown of some of the older asphalt roads around here haha.

here is a vid of my 47 gmc, set at 4.5" front 5.5" rear, click the pic to play

I had mine at those same measurements (4.5/5.5). I had to drive super cautiously - learned you can destroy fender bottoms real fast. But the front bumper was the worst issue. I raised it to 6" front, 7" rear. Now I can jump speed bumps like Luke Duke.

Here I am stuck in my own driveway:

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by big_dan

Mongo - It is a little forward; I thought so too. Keep in mind the bed isn't mounted permanently yet, and the 4- link has an easy 1" of adjustment also.

Dan

there are two rivets on the fender, that is roughly center. when I center it and take a picture from anywhere but straight on the wheel, it looks too far forward, so I think your flat wheel is playing tricks a little.

looks great!

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by joedoh

there are two rivets on the fender, that is roughly center. when I center it and take a picture from anywhere but straight on the wheel, it looks too far forward, so I think your flat wheel is playing tricks a little.

looks great!

Hey Joe, it seems like the factory originally had the rear axle forward of center, maybe for a swooshy streamlined look? I know it's a personal choice but do you think the rear wheels should actually be centered, or leave them where the factory had them?

[mongocanfly]

I think it looks better centered..

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I think it looks better centered..

I agree, it does look better centered; just a minor adjustment. Still a long way to go, but currently trying to check ride height, tire clearance, start fabbing/ machining mounts, e.t.c, e.t.c........ Once I'm happy with the body fit, I'll start shoving the LS in. All this is my favorite part anyway.
FYI - rear fenders and running boards are currently glass; I'm on the hunt for OE steel. More later -

Dan

[mongocanfly]

I like your frame jig idea...I've already built a jig for mine about 2 yrs ago...then the IH build took over..
My AD will be a little different than most but I'm always thinking of what I want to do and how to go about it...so seeing yours up on the frame jig gives me even a few more ideas...

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I like your frame jig idea...I've already built a jig for mine about 2 yrs ago...then the IH build took over..
My AD will be a little different than most but I'm always thinking of what I want to do and how to go about it...so seeing yours up on the frame jig gives me even a few more ideas...

It's definitely made things easier, and I think total materials were less than $200.

Dan

[big_dan]

So I was able to get a little shop time in today. Whipped up rear cab mounts (I don't like the shackle design, so I build a rigid bracket to use with a poly bushing) and started turning some bushings for the front mounts also. Plan is to get the cab mounts complete, then line up the hood and front clip, then I'll start playing with the LS. I've got a few more rear suspension items to finish up also.

More later -

Dan

[mongocanfly]

Nice mounts....I did basically the same....got rid of the shackles....

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Nice mounts....I did basically the same....got rid of the shackles....

I didn't see the need in them, especially in a "performance" oriented project. Started mockup of the rear sway "torsion" bar, working on fabbing mounting brackets currently.

More later -

Dan

[joedoh]

clean work!

[big_dan]

Whittled up some brackets for the rear sway bar. Still need to tack brackets to the tubes, then I'll check range of motion then weld them in. Moving along -

Dan

[big_dan]

A little more rear suspension work. Sway bar is tacked in, went ahead and cycled through its full range of motion; no issues. Started panhard bar mockup; my goal is level and square at ride height so one bracket will need a little modification - turning one out of some 1-3/4" DOM now. But, progress, and all going well. More later-

Dan

[mongocanfly]

Looks good...whose sway bar are you using?

[big_dan]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Looks good...whose sway bar are you using?

It's a Scott's "torsion bar" setup. The same style will be in the front as well.

Thanks for looking -

Dan

[joedoh]

looks really good, iits a shame no one will see it but you will know its done right!

[big_dan]

Been playing around with the panhard bar for a day or two now. Ideal setup is level at ride height and perpendicular to the frame centerline, so that's where we set it. The Scott's bracket was about 6", but due to the step notches it had to be 2" longer to sit level. So, I trimmed the gussets off of the original and turned down the welds, saving the last 3-1/2" or so. Then a quick bore and turn of some 2" DOM and tigged them up. I got a little carried away and fluted it as well. . . . . but after fishing the end, it fit perfect. I still have to add gussets, but I'm good with it so far. More later -

Dan