72 GMC K2500, short bed build

[randy500]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Safe to say that no moss grows under your feet Randy! 510 blue may be the same one I end up spraying. Do you know if he had any more of it on hand or does he mix it for every order? I'm so tempted to get it now and start spraying it panel at a time like you mentioned. I've always wanted to do it. I appreciate all the details your sharing in these posts. I may just try to keep up with you.

Virtually all paint is custom mix except a few standard or real popular colors.
Happy to share and glad your following along

[DeadheadNM]

Looking good. Enjoying the build. Great you have access to chemical dipping - any EDP coating options available post dip to seal?

[randy500]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Looking good. Enjoying the build. Great you have access to chemical dipping - any EDP coating options available post dip to seal?

I never even thought to look but i have never heard of a place that does edp. Have you heard of one anyplace?

They do coat it with phosphoric acid as a last step which is the active ingredient in Ospho so it wont rust for quite a while.
I dont have good pics but i dropped off this bed floor when i picked up the cab, it was a real clean floor and now its beautiful clean metal.

[randy500]

I didnt get much done today but one cab corner is done.

[CG]

Whats the name of the place where you got your cab dipped? Is it in Portland? You mentioned the cost of having the bed floor dipped, but how much was the cab?

That's a great blue you picked out, probably my favorite.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by CG

Whats the name of the place where you got your cab dipped? Is it in Portland? You mentioned the cost of having the bed floor dipped, but how much was the cab?

That's a great blue you picked out, probably my favorite.

Place is Metal Works and its in Eugene, OR. Good guys there, its a little unorganized for drop off and pick up but not a big deal. Website had full description of services and prices that are accurate. Cab was $600.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by randy500

I never even thought to look but i have never heard of a place that does edp. Have you heard of one anyplace? .

It’s available but I don’t personally know a specific shop that I can recommend. Believe there are shops in MI and LA - could be several more.

Here’s a rundown from a local restoration shop that’s helped me with a few things: https://www.musclecarrestorations.com/ecoat.html

[randy500]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

It’s available but I don’t personally know a specific shop that I can recommend. Believe there are shops in MI and LA - could be several more.

Here’s a rundown from a local restoration shop that’s helped me with a few things: https://www.musclecarrestorations.com/ecoat.html

That EDP would be fabulous, thanks for the link. I will be checking around more for a northwest location.

[randy500]

Wrestled the drivers cab corner into submission and got it mostly welded on along with the rocker panel.
The repro cab corners actually suck, i think they were made to slip over the factory corners so its a real wrestling match to fit them.

[randy500]

When i installed the outer floors, floor support and trial fit the rocker panel i couldn't get the door back far enough for a reasonably tight gap. I noticed when i tightened up the upper hinge bolts the door pulled forward.
So before i fit the door his time i pushed the upper hinge nut plate back as far as it would go the pillar and noticed the bolt holes were partially covered by the pillar so i ground the pillar holes which allowed the door to adjust further back.
Now i have a rear door gap i can live with.

[randy500]

I sold my black bucket seats so i ordered new white seat covers for the green buckets and a new white headliner.
On my crew cab i bought off white seat covers, i like them a lot but i feel the original seat covers were more white so this time i ordered the white covers. I hope they are not too bright.
When i look at pictures of highlander seats they seem very white and im hoping the ones i ordered are the same.

[randy500]

I did work on it yesterday.
I installed rear cab paint divider trim and the cab light with switch.
The paint divider trim was a real chore, the rear of the cab was slightly pushed in and took some work to straighten it out. The screw type molding studs suck, a few stripped out just as they were tightened to flush. I had to order molding rivets and a molding tip for my stud gun which i hated to do because i think its overpriced at $50 for that.

[randy500]

I also installed new rubber on my wing windows yesterday. I have been dreading working on wing windows for the past couple years because last time i did it i wasnt happy with the results and its a real chore.
Im super happy to report that i have it figured out, its not very difficult or time consuming. I have a bunch to do so i will be making a couple jigs to ease the process and help me hold and set the rivets.

Im especially happy with how the pivot rivet turned out. I used the pictured setting tool and had my wife help me hold it using the bench vise as an anvil.
I did one by removing the pivot rivet and one by removing the rivets on the pivot hinge.
As you can see the other one needs a new rivet which i didnt notice until i took the picture.

Precision seals and rivets purchased from classic parts usa. Rivet setting tool i got off a forum member, nothing fancy and probably sold everywhere.

[randy500]

Recent ebay purchase, C60 so it has 80 psi oil gauge.
Great buy at $220 but as is typical with ebay....tach doesn't work. I ordered a new circuit board for it so i get to see how that installs, fairly clean gauges though and it completes the option package for the truck.
Cost breakdown
Used tach dash $220
New printed circuit $45
New tach circuit board $65
New bezel $45
Total $375 and a ton of labor. Its no bargain when you consider a restored dash on ebay with wiring harness is $425 and the same one on the forum is about $450, repro tachs in those though and i cant stand them, the color is off on the markings and the face is riveted instead of attached with screws. Not to mention the rivets are even in a different location.
Why cant reproduction parts be exact?

[randy500]

Here is a repro tach pictured with the original
As you can see the repro tahc markings are very green, what isnt apparent is the factory gauges are slightly green, you can really notice the green in them when compared to later gm replacement gauges where the markings are almost pure white.
The only thing i hate more than a repro tach is a NOS gauge with white markings.

[cornerstone]

Hey Randy, how about a “how to” on vent windows, kind of like your assembling doors thread?

Also thanks for the education on factory vs aftermarket tachs. Good to know.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Hey Randy, how about a “how to” on vent windows, kind of like your assembling doors thread?

Also thanks for the education on factory vs aftermarket tachs. Good to know.

There are some threads on vent windows that helped me a lot. I did one last night an dit worked out pretty good.
I went inside and read up for tips, i couldn't sleep thinking about it so i went out at 11:30pm and did the other one.
The main tip is only remove the vent frame from the division bar at the top
And
Remove the vent hinge at the frame rivets so you dont have to rivet the pivot, although my pivot rivet turned out nice.

[randy500]

On the repro tachs...the pictured one is dead and I have heard of a high failure rate on them too.

[cornerstone]

I've been on the interwebs huntin' for where to buy the same brand of single stage urethane paint that you are using for a couple of days. Finally I found a company that seemed promising so I searched for locations on their website, and wouldn't you know it... they are across the street only a half a block down from my business. Where the hell have I been?! The company is called National Coatings and Supply. I walked in, gave the dude the same paint code on the can in your post, and he said he could have it ready for me in 20 minutes... how cool is that? A gallon with the activator is $298. and an extra quart would be another 100. bucks. Since I'm a newbie to auto paint I'm thinking I should get a bit extra, so I can re-spray if I jack something up. When you do a full color change how much paint do you use Randy? Plus, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna have white roof and sides between the trim... How much white do you think I should get also? Last question for the night, off the top of your head do you know the paint code for the correct white on a 72?

[randy500]

Thats a good price.
Last one i painted was 2 tone, white roof and white middle, i painted inside bed and inside cab but not the firewall. I used a touch over 5 quarts of color, about 1.5 quart of white.
Nason makes a pre mixed (factory pack) gm paint code 12, white, it looks super grey in the can but its white on the truck and looks good. Nason part number is 400-50

[randy500]

White for 72 is code 521 which seems to be the same as gm code 12 white which is the same as the Nason 400-50.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by randy500

Thats a good price.
Last one i painted was 2 tone, white roof and white middle, i painted inside bed and inside cab but not the firewall. I used a touch over 5 quarts of color, about 1.5 quart of white.
Nason makes a pre mixed (factory pack) gm paint code 12, white, it looks super grey in the can but its white on the truck and looks good. Nason part number is 400-50

Thanks again man. Are you speaking of the K10 with the white on the roof and sides in the grapefruit yellow that you sold just yesterday? Man that was a beautiful 4x4!

Just to be clear, did you use the Nason 400-50 on that truck?

[randy500]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Thanks again man. Are you speaking of the K10 with the white on the roof and sides in the grapefruit yellow that you sold just yesterday? Man that was a beautiful 4x4!

Just to be clear, did you use the Nason 400-50 on that truck?

Thank you and...
Yes thats the one.
I did use the Nason 400-50 on it. Like i said dont be scared when you open the can. Its very grey looking but sprays out and looks white. Its gm paint code 12 and our trucks take paint code 521, it seems to be the same color, if it isnt its very close and looks great.

[cornerstone]

Sure appreciate it Randy, you're building my confidence level enough to go lay down the cash. What color primer / sealer do you use when you spray a brighter color like the medium blue?

On a side note, would you prefer that I ask these questions in a PM?

[randy500]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

Sure appreciate it Randy, you're building my confidence level enough to go lay down the cash. What color primer / sealer do you use when you spray a brighter color like the medium blue?

On a side note, would you prefer that I ask these questions in a PM?

Here is fine for now. Do you have my phone number? Send me a PM with yours.

I have white epoxy primer that i spray under the color. Sprayed as a sealer which means thinned a little and sprayed wet, let it dry 30-45 mins then apply color coats.
The nason paint can be sprayed with 2 coats. I spray 2 where i will definitely not be sanding it such as inside the cab, the firewall and inside the bed. Outer panels get 3 coats.

You can spray over 600 grit sanded filler primer without a sealer if you dont have any sand through to filler or metal and the color is completely even, otherwise lay down the sealer.