1964 C10 fleet side swb

[Justin71105]

No more one wheel peel, got rear end back and put in. New 3.73 gears, positive carrier, new moser axles and wheel studs with full rebuild/setup.

Need to reinstall all brake stuff and lines and then can move on to engine/trans install.

Will install fuel tank when it gets delivered and run fuel lines.

Then can get drive shaft measurements, run wiring harnesses for body and engine and try to start it for the first time.

[Justin71105]

Rear end back in truck, brakes and lines reinstalled. New shocks installed along with new adjustable panhard bar. Going to try and get engine and transmission bolted togethor and sat in truck tomorrow.

[Justin71105]

Motor and trans are in, need to get trans aligned with each side of frame rail here in a little bit and bolt it all down.

I had to knock a dent in one of the header tubes on the passenger side to clear the motor mount but not very much at all. Have motor mount in most fwd position on adapters and bolted to rear holes on frame rail.

[88Stanger]

looking good.... keep up the good work

[Justin71105]

Got accessories mounted and inner fenders on. Looks like I will be able to use stock PS hoses, they celar the frame pretty well. Just need to cut a hole in inner fender or a spot out of the bottom.

[Justin71105]

Ordered power steering hoses today to finish thatbpart. Got the call that my gas tabk setup has come in, going to pick it up monday. Then hopefully can start making a lot of progress over the next few weeks. Ordered wheels and tires yesterday, should have them in next week as well.

[Justin71105]

Just testing out my new angle finder, where would the correct spot be to measure the pinion angle and crank angle to calculate drive-line angles.

Just have it on jack stands right now so angles probably aren't correct, should have wheels/tires in this week. Just want to make sure I am measuring the correct spots. Also putting in 2" drop coils to go with my 2.5" drop spindles so probably change trans angle more.

Took pictures of where I placed angle finder, got to different measurements. Looked online and it is pretty confusing, hoping when I get wheels and tires on the front the trans will angle down some more. It is reading less than 0.5 degrees downward angle. Rear is reading between 3.9 and 4.7 and while to me it appears to point up it shows a down arrow.....

[Captainfab]

Yes you should have the truck sitting on all 4 wheels. Ideally you should also have all the weight on the front and rear suspension as well. That arrow on the angle finder is a indication of what way it needs to move to become level or 0.0 degrees.

[aggie91]

The difference between those measurements could be difference in the machining of the yoke and the end of the pinion shaft. Some times the pinion shaft could be deformed slightly if it is a old or used pinion. I always use the machined surface of the yoke to measure the angle. I use one level to set the yoke so that the cross shaft of the u-joint is level with the ground and them use the machined face of the yoke to measure the angle. Captain is correct on the indication of the arrow. It is the direction of rotation to get to zero or 90 (second photo showing 85.30)

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Yes you should have the truck sitting on all 4 wheels. Ideally you should also have all the weight on the front and rear suspension as well. That arrow on the angle finder is a indication of what way it needs to move to become level or 0.0 degrees.

Ok so its up 4.7 in that pic, trans reads 0.5 down as it sits. Hopefully I will see +3 and -3 when i get it on the wheels tomorrow.

Got tank just about installed fully today, need to drill 3 more holes and bolt the drivers side in. Had to remove rear most cross-member for it to fit and not lose the bed rail support spot

[Justin71105]

Wheels and tires picked up, he had to order the center caps. Thought they came with them since the website says they are included, he said they are a separate purchase.

He did order them for me free of charge which was nice though. Going to try and get the 2" drop coils put in today and be done with the suspension. If I can knock that out quick I may continue making my brake pedal. Going to be my stock clutch pedal welded to the round stock that mounts it to the assembly and the foot from a 96 c1500.

Wheel/tires are a Soft 8 - 17x8 with 235/60R17 tires for a 4.5/5 drop, 2.5 spindles, 2" coils and 5" coils in rear.

[Justin71105]

4.5/5 drop - 2.5" spindles, 2" springs front and 5" springs rear
17x8 Soft 8s
235/60R17 tires

Rear end now shows 88.20 with a down arrow, so taking this as 1.8 degrees up. Truck is now too low for me to get my big butt under the cab so going to have my brother scoot under there later to get transmission reading just to see if it moved up any after putting it on the wheels.

[Justin71105]

Center caps came in, I really like them. Hoping the wood bed and fuel will bring the bed down on the tires a little more.


Have the power steering lines run and ordered some trim for where I cut to keep hoses from wearing.

Going to stand in the bed to simulate the weight of wood and fuel while my brother measures drive shaft length tomorrow and try to get one made this next week.

Trans angle is 4.5 down and rear end is 1.8 up like it sits.

[Justin71105]

Put my front end together to see what it looks like, finally looking like a truck.

[Justin71105]

Have the fuel lines run and got my trim put on inner fender so my power steering line doesn't rib through. Going to get some kevlar wrap for where the fuel line is touching the firewall flange.

[Justin71105]

Tried out some flat white paint on the front clip to see what I thought.

Came out decent but don't care for the flat paint after all, love the gloss back on the background. So I think I am going to do either semi gloss or gloss white.

Make those dents really "pop" lol, but I was never going for a perfect looking body on the truck.

Got my ecm mounts in and primered/painted. That rustoleum enamel gloss black really does look amazing after drying. It looks really good on the clip on the headlight surrounds.

[53Sparky]

This is the first time I've come across this thread. You've got a great project, Justin! I agree - the centre caps really look great.

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Just testing out my new angle finder, where would the correct spot be to measure the pinion angle and crank angle to calculate drive-line angles......

I like to measure the engine angle on the front pulley. Just put something flat across the front of it.

[88Stanger]

I have messed around with flats, and i will tell you this, if they rubbed alot ie. fenders, and such... they will transition to more of a satin in the "rub" area. My "69 I did in all flat and the fenders have a bit of satin to them. I really do not mind, i kinda think that is what i expected so i am ok with it. My "66 will be flat red with semi-gloss to gloss black highlights. So just understand that the flats can move a bit to satin in areas.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

I have messed around with flats, and i will tell you this, if they rubbed alot ie. fenders, and such... they will transition to more of a satin in the "rub" area. My "69 I did in all flat and the fenders have a bit of satin to them. I really do not mind, i kinda think that is what i expected so i am ok with it. My "66 will be flat red with semi-gloss to gloss black highlights. So just understand that the flats can move a bit to satin in areas.

I am going to sand and re-shoot the front clip with a semi-gloss or maybe even gloss white and see how I like it. I love how the gloss black enamel came out on the headlight buckets and the backing of the clip.

Wanted flat to help "hide" some of the dents but after seeing the finish of that gloss I really like it. Going to be a very budget paint job anyhow, just some Rust-oleum professional through a hvlp gun in my garage.

Everything other than the body is pretty much brand new so it should be a good driver. Honestly I would drive it like it is if it was running right now.

Maybe in a few more years I will buy new doors/hood and I will take the time to really prep it for some real single stage paint. My door repair on passenger side is not very good but I don't want to drop $1200 on doors this year. Still have at least another 3-4k I need in interior/cooling system for the parts I want.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by 53Sparky

This is the first time I've come across this thread. You've got a great project, Justin! I agree - the centre caps really look great.

Going to change out the center section of the caps to the gold bow tie as well, I think it will look killer.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by bigmoe

I like to measure the engine angle on the front pulley. Just put something flat across the front of it.

So like the picture:


Looks like 4.3 degrees down, I can lift it a little would like it around 4 degrees or maybe even 3.8. May need to massage the trans tunnel for some more clearance though. My rear is 1.8 degrees up and I could get 2 degree shims and get them perfectly opposite or within 0.2 at least.

[Justin71105]

Found an old post on here about 06-09 Honda civic weather stripping working on the 64-66.

So to the junk yard I went, looking up the part # its actually the same for 06-11 Civics. Got a set off a 2010 Civic but the extra trim on the weather stripping was grey which I did not car for. So I also got a set off a 2010 Accord coupe that had black trim to try.

They both fit perfect and I am only out 12$ total for both pairs of them. Also got an upper and lower radiator hose from a Tahoe thinking I may need to use them for something ($2).

Called today and place my order for a CC284 radiator through Champion but modified for the LS with inlet/out sized correctly, both on passenger side with a steam port and trans cooler. He said they are currently out of stock until Feb but I would be put on the list now.

Will need to order the fan(s) and shroud separate, but it was much less expensive than the others I have seen and comes with a lifetime warranty.

I will be re-routing my PSI harness through the firewall tomorrow and mount my ecm on one of the kick panels on the cover I will be making for the hole.

[88Stanger]

Very nice, good to know about the weather stripping....

[Justin71105]

Only issue it brought up is how badly I warped my door when I welded in the patch or that it was already bent and I never noticed b/c i didn't have weather stripping.

The latch side on the bottom from where I welded to the bottom does not even touch the weather stripping.

It looks really bad....so I am going to order both new doors once I get the radiator in, hear it run and make sure the transmission is ok.

Also will not install anything on these old doors since they are already stripped of all the mechanical parts atm.

Ordered an air intake off amazon and went to install it today.

I have a repro battery box in its stock passenger core support location and the elbow off the throttle body in this kit is way to short to clear my alternator on driver side. As well as the tubing being 4" and my maf not fitting.


So I got all the parts in my cart to build my own air cleaner setup. A longer elbow 4" to 3.5", 45 degree piece of pipe 12", a 3.5 to 3.5 coupler for the MAF, and a 6" filter instead of the 10" in this kit.



Will be an Elbow coming off TB, then the MAF-coupler-pipe-filter. Will route to driver side behind the core support where the air vents are.

Also going to redo my brake lines from the Mastr cyl to prop valve. I am going to do the coils the same but go down to the frame and follow it to prop valve instead of mounting them to the inner fender. This will clear up the eye sore that the brake lines and power steering lines are causing me.


BTW - The lower radiator hose I got out of junkyard looks like it will work for the inlet and outlet on a radiator as far as the bends go. So I am going to use its curves to hunt down an 1.25" upper hose to use. Its a Dayco 71190