Going back to factory intake and carb

[Steeveedee]

Nice looking parts! When you go to use the Evap-O-Rust, be sure to clean the grease and oil off. It'll work way better that way. Purple Power or some other lye-based product will make short work of it. In fact, if you have a machine shop local, they can hot-tank it and take the rust and grease off in one swell foop. The steel parts of the carb will clean up the same, but don't put the pot metal parts in the hot tank, you'll only get the basket back. You can also buy a chromate kit online to re-plate the carburetor parts, if you end up rebuilding it yourself. It'll look like new if you are careful. I'll be doing that to mine, next rebuild. I'm willing to wait a long time, as I did it about 4 years ago and it's working fine.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

Thanks

Carb might not look quite as bad as it does in these pics but it’s definitely tired. Will see if I can find that to soak it in, haven’t seen that around here but haven’t looked either.

I know you have found a different setup since this post and are probably tracking. But this makes it sound as if you were thinking of putting the carburetor into the evapo-rust and I wouldn't recommend that. I would actually use pretty gentle cleaners on it to try to preserve whatever coloring is left on the carb body. Tossing either one of those manifolds into evap-orust is a great idea though.

[Bbarbeau]

Thanks - I was wondering about that! I’m still going to rebuild the first carb I got yesterday, if only for interest. Sounds like some people put the carb body in carb cleaner? How does that react with the coloring?

Originally Posted by LT7A

I know you have found a different setup since this post and are probably tracking. But this makes it sound as if you were thinking of putting the carburetor into the evapo-rust and I wouldn't recommend that. I would actually use pretty gentle cleaners on it to try to preserve whatever coloring is left on the carb body. Tossing either one of those manifolds into evap-orust is a great idea though.

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

Thanks - I was wondering about that! I’m still going to rebuild the first carb I got yesterday, if only for interest. Sounds like some people put the carb body in carb cleaner? How does that react with the coloring?

carb cleaner won't take off the colouring of the carb,if any is left,at least none i've ever used over the years did.although evap-o-rust was mentioned,i did try it once on a broken piece of carb and it wiped it clean of colour so i didn't use it again.Greg

[geezer#99]

Maybe you should farm it out.
Check out this ad. Pics #18 and #19 is what you’re striving for.
Don’t know what cost is.
You should rebuild your carb without stressing over how pretty it should look.



https://vancouver.craigslist.org/pml...297717152.html

[Steeveedee]

OK, I can see where what I said could be construed as telling you to put the carb into the Evap-O-Rust. Good that people weighed in to clarify on that, as it certainly isn't what I meant! Sorry.

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Bbarbeau

Thanks - I was wondering about that! I’m still going to rebuild the first carb I got yesterday, if only for interest. Sounds like some people put the carb body in carb cleaner? How does that react with the coloring?

stoopid thing for me to say,i know it's obvious but you'll need to dismantle the carb and put it all in the carb cleaner,not the choke pull off with a diaphram in it,or an electric choke if that's what you end up with,not the float if it's fiber.watch the big 1 inch threads where the big fuel nut threads in,VERY easy to cross thread.if you don't know it's there,the tiny spring under the primary power piston will fall out,usually gone forever,never to be found again.there's lots going on in there.i put all the screws in the cleaner as well and wire brush them with a small drop of oil when they go back in.if it ends up being more than you're comfortable with,and you have nobody to take it to,you can mail it to me,i'll handle it.Greg

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

OK, I can see where what I said could be construed as telling you to put the carb into the Evap-O-Rust. Good that people weighed in to clarify on that, as it certainly isn't what I meant! Sorry.

hi Steve,no harm done,i just knew i tryed it,what could go wrong i thought??i wasn't impressed with my result,but live and learn.have a great day.Greg

[Bbarbeau]

Thanks for all the help everyone. The nice stuff will be here next week, and in the meantime, I am cleaning up the wrecker purchases and will hopefully re-sell that after I get it done too. They are really for a squarebody so maybe I'll get lucky and somebody will need them.

Will report back with some results.

[Bbarbeau]

Okay, so I did the changeover and I think everything is good. Rebuilt the carb first and it works well apart from the choke which I’m getting some parts for (missing the cover and doesn’t open far enough). The breather isn’t quite right but will work for now I think. I don’t really notice any decrease in power but notice I spin the tires a bit more in gravel than before I think.

[jumpsoffrock]

I have a '72 with a 402ci and edelbrock and stock intake. What Qjet can I use? I would like to use a later 1705 with APT. I have also read Ruggles' book a couple times but never actually done the work.

Thank you

[Bbarbeau]

I think, from the now dangerous amount of knowledge that I have from just doing it, that you just need a divorced choke Qjet. Watch out to make sure you get the right choke parts because that can mess up things. I actually used a 17054927 which was a service replacement apparently.

Worth making sure that the baseplate matches the transmission you have so that the linkages match too.

Originally Posted by jumpsoffrock

I have a '72 with a 402ci and edelbrock and stock intake. What Qjet can I use? I would like to use a later 1705 with APT. I have also read Ruggles' book a couple times but never actually done the work.

Thank you

[jumpsoffrock]

Thanks man. Luckily I have a stick so I shouldn't need to worry over downshift linkages.