attaching lower door carpet panels

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

Thanks for the info S10Fan. It’s a good looking door panel. I’ll check out Red Door out of curiosity. I need to stay with original or replica panels due to my collector plates however so i’m just dying mine. Much appreciate the input anyway.

Glenn

Wow, it sounds very narrowly defined what you are allowed to license as a collector vehicle. Is it something that they monitor? Maybe you have yearly inspections or something?

Originally Posted by S10Fan

Magnets were mentioned above, they are a very good choice. I used magnets to mount most all of the panels in the trunk of my 50 Chevrolet. The panel behind the seat hides my stereo gear, removing the panel is a simple no tools required process.

That's good info. Very clean installation.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Wow, it sounds like the very narrowly defined what you are allowed to license as a collector vehicle. Is it something that they monitor? Maybe you have yearly inspections or something?



That's good info. Very clean installation.

Thank You. Here's a link to the magnets I used, they're roughly 3/4 to 7/8 inch round. Mine are attached with screws, but I'm sure a really good epoxy would work. By the way, these magnets are great with a zip tie through the hole for a little extra umpff with car covers etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

[82c10gcl]

Thanks for the info on the magnets LT7A. I visited their website and they look like a good answer.
Regarding the collector's plates, our insurance is government issued and they are pretty strict about what they will approve. Aftermarket radios and non- original speaker installations aren't allowed and catch a lot of people. Blemishes in the paint and chrome, rips, cracks or severe fading in the interior finishes, etc. also would be an issue. Under the hood basically needs to be stock or only have aftermarket upgrades that were available at the time. There were only two types of wheels that were acceptable for me to use other than the stock ones from the day (luckily, one of the options was American Racing Torque Thrust, which I wanted anyway). You aren't allowed to increase the size of wheels and tires by more than an inch from stock and lowering or raising the truck isn't permitted, although an inch or two up or down probably wouldn't be an issue. The originality of the vehicles appearance (either NOS or reproduction parts can be used) is key. For some parts (such as my refurbished 81 buckets) they will allow the replacement to be to factory specifications from one year each side of the vehicle's year. How they regulate the program I think is mostly by fear that if you make a change that deviates from the photos on the basis of which your collectors plates were approved, they could theoretically deny an insurance claim or pull your plates if you had an accident. Not likely for a minor deviation, but who wants to risk it? The savings in having the collector's plates makes it very worthwhile going through the hoops to get them.

[Rich84]

"Government issued"..No thanks. That explains it.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

Thanks for the info on the magnets LT7A. I visited their website and they look like a good answer.
Regarding the collector's plates, our insurance is government issued and they are pretty strict about what they will approve. Aftermarket radios and non- original speaker installations aren't allowed and catch a lot of people. Blemishes in the paint and chrome, rips, cracks or severe fading in the interior finishes, etc. also would be an issue. Under the hood basically needs to be stock or only have aftermarket upgrades that were available at the time. There were only two types of wheels that were acceptable for me to use other than the stock ones from the day (luckily, one of the options was American Racing Torque Thrust, which I wanted anyway). You aren't allowed to increase the size of wheels and tires by more than an inch from stock and lowering or raising the truck isn't permitted, although an inch or two up or down probably wouldn't be an issue. The originality of the vehicles appearance (either NOS or reproduction parts can be used) is key. For some parts (such as my refurbished 81 buckets) they will allow the replacement to be to factory specifications from one year each side of the vehicle's year. How they regulate the program I think is mostly by fear that if you make a change that deviates from the photos on the basis of which your collectors plates were approved, they could theoretically deny an insurance claim or pull your plates if you had an accident. Not likely for a minor deviation, but who wants to risk it? The savings in having the collector's plates makes it very worthwhile going through the hoops to get them.

Oh my. That's a lot to bother with... both for you and the govt.

Magnet info credit goes to S10Fan.

[82c10gcl]

Right regarding the magnet info. Thanks S10Fan

[calvin78612]

Originally Posted by S10Fan

Thank You. Here's a link to the magnets I used, they're roughly 3/4 to 7/8 inch round. Mine are attached with screws, but I'm sure a really good epoxy would work. By the way, these magnets are great with a zip tie through the hole for a little extra umpff with car covers etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

The magnets in the link are great, i used that style to hang 8' LED lights in the shop. For my door panels which are thin i used the small rectangular magnets from Hobby Lobby as they where very thin and hold very well. Any good epoxy will hold the magnets in place on the door panels no problem.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Oh my. That's a lot to bother with... both for you and the govt.

Magnet info credit goes to S10Fan.

I'm still laughing at what their reaction would be to my 1927 Pontiac pickup that looks exactly like a 1931 Ford pickup.

You're thinking, "Pontiac never built a pickup", they did build a sedan though, and the sedan frame is now home to a pickup body. Registering the truck as a Pontiac was the simplest way since I had a title for the sedan.

[S10Fan]

Originally Posted by calvin78612

The magnets in the link are great, i used that style to hang 8' LED lights in the shop. For my door panels which are thin i used the small rectangular magnets from Hobby Lobby as they where very thin and hold very well. Any good epoxy will hold the magnets in place on the door panels no problem.

They are handy things that's for sure. I use them mostly holding plastic sheets over panels when I'm painting close by. Covering a windshield over night so I don't have to deal with heavy frost in the morning. I use a zip tie through the center hole to make them easier to remove.

[82c10gcl]

I've been making some progress on the interior finally. Got my new dash pad installed and the old door panels dyed to match (with new aluminum trim). Got new full kick panels dyed and the carpet on. Got the passenger's side installed. Seems to fit properly but the hole for the screw at the leading edge of the old half panel doesn't align with the hole in the new full panel. Is this typical or does the panel need to be repositioned somehow? Do I need drill new holes for this screw as well as for the one near the bottom of the panel? I bought some magnets to go that route but that means removing the panel again to install them so I may just get my drill out and go for it if that is what's required.

My next problem is trying to get the driver's side panel out without removing the e-brake pedal. I've moved the pedal up and down and it still seems to block the panel. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.

[82c10gcl]

Looks like it didn't post the pictures. Here they are.

[TKCR]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

I've been making some progress on the interior finally. Got my new dash pad installed and the old door panels dyed to match (with new aluminum trim). Got new full kick panels dyed and the carpet on. Got the passenger's side installed. Seems to fit properly but the hole for the screw at the leading edge of the old half panel doesn't align with the hole in the new full panel. Is this typical or does the panel need to be repositioned somehow? Do I need drill new holes for this screw as well as for the one near the bottom of the panel? I bought some magnets to go that route but that means removing the panel again to install them so I may just get my drill out and go for it if that is what's required.

My next problem is trying to get the driver's side panel out without removing the e-brake pedal. I've moved the pedal up and down and it still seems to block the panel. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Since the full kickpanels are slightly different than the partial, just drill a new hole.
The drivers side, it takes a little maneuvering of the kick panel and the ebrake. But it doesn’t have to come off. The parking brake handle does though, since it attaches thru the panel, into the metal panel.

[82c10gcl]

Thanks TKCR. Not sure if it’s cheaper to pay the medical bills for the heart attack i’m about to have from trying to get this gd panel off or to buy you a plane ticket to have you come up here and do it for me. I just spent another 2 hrs wrestling with it and still can’t get the vent to clear the opening in the metal. I’m ready to give up and chop it up to get it out and get the new one assembled with the old vent flap. But then I still have to fight with getting the new full panel back in. Does it go back in easier than it comes out? I just had them dyed and I don’t want to be scuffing and scratching the finish wrestling with it. Make my day and tell me it goes in easily.

When you take them out, is there a sequence you use? Any additional tips you can give will be appreciated.

Thanks
Glenn
Posted via Mobile Device

[TKCR]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

Thanks TKCR. Not sure if it’s cheaper to pay the medical bills for the heart attack i’m about to have from trying to get this gd panel off or to buy you a plane ticket to have you come up here and do it for me. I just spent another 2 hrs wrestling with it and still can’t get the vent to clear the opening in the metal. I’m ready to give up and chop it up to get it out and get the new one assembled with the old vent flap. But then I still have to fight with getting the new full panel back in. Does it go back in easier than it comes out? I just had them dyed and I don’t want to be scuffing and scratching the finish wrestling with it. Make my day and tell me it goes in easily.

When you take them out, is there a sequence you use? Any additional tips you can give will be appreciated.

Thanks
Glenn
Posted via Mobile Device

Sorry your having such a time with it. It’s been awhile since I had mine out, and then back in. And I have actually had it in & out several times for various reasons. Can’t say I remember the sequence. I Just know the only thing I did have to loosen from the side panel was the release handle. I think I just pressed the parking brake all the way forward, and that put it out of the way. Then once the new part is in, you can release the brake.

[82c10gcl]

[QUOTE=TKCR;9117559]Sorry your having such a time with it. It’s been awhile since I had mine out, and then back in. And I have actually had it in & out several times for various reasons. Can’t say I remember the sequence. I Just know the only thing I did have to loosen from the side panel was the release handle. I think I just pressed the parking brake all the way forward, and that put it out of the way. Then once the new part is in, you can release the brake.[/QUOTE


OK. Thanks again. Tomorrow’s another day so i’ll try again. Maybe go to church first to get some extra help. I’ll let you know how I make out.
Posted via Mobile Device

[TKCR]

[quote=82c10gcl;9117562]

Originally Posted by TKCR

Sorry your having such a time with it. It’s been awhile since I had mine out, and then back in. And I have actually had it in & out several times for various reasons. Can’t say I remember the sequence. I Just know the only thing I did have to loosen from the side panel was the release handle. I think I just pressed the parking brake all the way forward, and that put it out of the way. Then once the new part is in, you can release the brake.[/QUOTE


OK. Thanks again. Tomorrow’s another day so i’ll try again. Maybe go to church first to get some extra help. I’ll let you know how I make out.
Posted via Mobile Device

See if you can find a video online tonight. I know that was how I fiqured a lot of this stuff out, was watching videos. I didn’t know anything about these trucks when I first bought it and started doing work on it myself. The how to videos saved me several times.

[Axle]

Originally Posted by 82c10gcl

Regarding the collector's plates, our insurance is government issued and they are pretty strict about what they will approve. Aftermarket radios and non- original speaker installations aren't allowed and catch a lot of people.

Sounds like they made those rules to make sure that no one tries to use their collector car as a daily driver. Here in Ontario historic plates can be had once the vehicle hits a certain age regardless of condition with a handshake type agreement that you will only use that vehicle for parades, car shows, and only going for repairs. Technically no runs to the grocery store, no going to work with it, obviously not too many people adhere to those rules, on the other hand, if you need to have your vehicle in pristine condition to get collector/historic, you will be a lot more selective of where and when you drive it.

[82c10gcl]

I think you're right, Axel. They are counting on the collector car owner being much more careful than the average driver about where and how they drive it, thus justifying the much lower rates. You can't take your car to work and you need to show you have another vehicle that you use as a daily driver and the hours of operation are restricted but otherwise you can use it when you want for pleasure driving so it is a really good deal. Worth the headache of getting the collector plates.

[82c10gcl]

waiting for the vent seals to arrive before I can install the drivers side quarter panel and it looks like I'm going to have to have the parking brake pedal loosened up to do so. I'll post how it turns out.
In the meantime, I got a set of the interior trim for around the windows to hold a new headliner on so I'm looking at how to attach them.I don't really want to drill hole so if magnets (as mentioned above) have been used for this application successfully by anyone and they can post pictures, it would be greatly appreciated. If it have to drill holes instead, are there any tips I should take into account. I've seen warnings about being careful the drill doesn't go through the outer skin of the roof. Anything else?