55.2-59 Bucks 55 build

[mrbuck]

These ones?

[dsraven]

on my 57 the fasteners are all pretty much 5/16. they take a 1/2" wrench. the top rear fender to cowl bolts and the lower rear fender to cab bolts are 3/8"
lots of guys upgrade to stainless for these because they show when the hood is open. stainless is less strong than steel so you decide. zinc coated also works

[Joe Pass]

You could order up this or use the picture to source fasteners locally
https://www.classicindustries.com/pr...ts/sk1000.html

[dsraven]

or someplace locally or on the net that sells autobody supplies. this is the first google that came up
https://autofastenersandclips.com/co...ons/body-bolts
personally I find the black bolts last a little while and then start to show rust.
some fasteners have a built in washer that spins freely so it doesn't take paint off. some have a flange head so it looks like a washer but is part of the bolt so it spins with the bolt and digs into the finish when it tightens up. then there are some with a plastic washer to stop dissimilar metals from corroding. these work well on nice paint as well.
I recommend getting a tap of the correct thread and running it through all the holes to clean crud out and freshen up the threads. then use antisieze or lubricant on the threads so they don't rust. in some places I have used aviation form a gasket on the threads of screws etc where they run through a freshly drilled hole etc. that stops any ait from reaching the bare metal so the hole doesn't rust. it comes in a small can with a brush inside the lid or sometimes you can find it in a tube.it doesn't harden so stays pliable and wont melt out on a hot day. not easy to get off your hands though.
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga.../?locale=en_us

[dsraven]

a bunch of those bolts are the same length but if you are sourcing locally or online you may bot know the length needed unless you have a sample. the length of a bolt is measured from the under side of the head down to the end of the threaded part. just do a quick measure and see how long they need to be. if they are a little long it will likely be ok since they have threads up to the top. too short will suck.
some flange head bolts are smooth under the head and some are serrated. serrated holds them tight but removes paint as the bolt is tightened. same goes for the ones with the washer that spins freely.

[mrbuck]

Thanks guys. I plan on starting pre assembly over the thanksgiving weekend, just ordered all the grommets and seals. Only time will tell what I’m missing.

wish me luck. This is the joys of a basket case

[mrbuck]

Don’t let anyone fool you, it the little things in life…….. that are a pain in the butt. Spent all last weekend and Saturday welding the door jams and cab seams on the inside roof panels. Grinding the spot welded seems to match and then welding it solid, and filling to end up with a smooth door jam and eliminating the seems at roof. I decided to keep the folded seem above the back window. Also welded up the ash tray and the blanked out hvac control.

[mrbuck]

Damn sideway pictures

[Joe Pass]

Good work.....

[dsraven]

looks great. wish mine was that good of shape.
whatcha gonna do for the sun visors? stockers? wider ones? something from a donor? tough to find one in decent shape but I think they are available aftermarket. cardboard style.

[dsraven]

on mine I plan to use donor visors and black out the space between with some vinyl. sun always gets me right in the eyeballs between the visors and the rear view mirror.

[mrbuck]

Sun visors hahaha haven’t even got close to thinking about those , until now! Thanks raven. I’ve got the stock ones, but who how’s if I’ll use them.

Smoothed out and filled the ashtray and heater controls in the dash. Looking much better, I’m going to move cowl vent controls to radio control locations then use dummy knobs in the rest of the holes. Radio will be in center console. At least that’s the plan

[mrbuck]

While waiting for the bird to cook I was able to get one side of the Altman latches installed. Had to make a few small modifications.
1. Need to add 3/16 pad to the outer door handle lever, push rod would just barely touch the pad.
2 had to bring out door lever to fit the side of door, they come square which plan does not fit.
Also had to peen the interior door about an 1/8 inch where the interior lever swings to clear the nut holding the regulator arm.
Last but not least: if you order the short panel kit like I did. DONT CUT door panel like it says in instructions. You need to cut the panel and the latch cover both at the corner and weld them together, they don’t fit overlapping.

Other than that it’s pretty much bolt on

[mrbuck]

Some of you might notice in the third picture there is no window channel. That was a fun surprise I got once I cut into the drivers door. Any ideas where I can get one of those? Or what they re really called?

One other question does the passenger side have a return spring on the door handle? Like the driver side? Mine pushes to lock but does return once pulled to open, might have to replace those too.

[Jason 56]

Wow you’re making great progress! Doesn’t look like you can get that window track as an aftermarket item. Probably going to have to source that used. As for the door handle, yes there should be a spring in there. Here’s a link to classic parts for a new pair

https://www.classicparts.com/1952-59...ctinfo/18-107/

One other thing to be aware of as you continue to add weight to the front. Your lower a-arms should be parallel with the ground at final ride height. I know you didn’t install the front end, but something to consider. May have to get lighter springs.

Otherwise keep up the great work. Those latches look awesome. I’ll be following!

[dsraven]

looks like you have some spider cracks near the door handle. plans to weld those up?

[mrbuck]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looks like you have some spider cracks near the door handle. plans to weld those up?

Yeah the whole interior is going to be ground/stripped down to bare metal and repaired as needed.

Open to suggestions for stripping. I have access to a concrete sand blast machine, but I’m sure it’s way more than needed and will result in tons of extra work.

[mrbuck]

Dry fitting sheet metal today, after finishing up the Altman latches. Just kind throwing it on there to see what I’m workin with. Never had any of the tins mounted to the chassis,… so this is interesting.

The previous owner or who ever stripped this thing down didn’t d o me any favors, I found 6 busted off bolts just on the front end. Good times with an extractor/ drill and tap. . The hoods got a big ol smash right in front that won’t let it close right, might need to source a new hood.

Really thinking this thing needs to be on air, I’m gonna have to look into what that’ll take.

[dsraven]

The strip it discs work good. Look like a really course 3m pad. They do build heat though so move around.

[mrbuck]

Bed and fenders dry fit in place. It’s all in real good shape just gonna need a little hammer dolly work at the bolt locations and where old bumper wrapped around.

[mrbuck]

Working on a roll pan today, had 2 old lower rear quarters from my old square body blazer. I little trim’in and hammer’ in I think it’ll be pretty good.

Haven’t decided if I’ll bolt it on or weld it right to the rear support

[mrbuck]

Originally Posted by dsraven

The strip it discs work good. Look like a really course 3m pad. They do build heat though so move around.

Also stripped the inside of the bed down to bare metal, has some surface rust where all the old nicks and scratches were. A coat of pour-15 should fix it right up.

[Joe Pass]

Busy Guy.....great progress.

[mrbuck]

Cut and rounded bed corners, really like how it turned out.

[mrbuck]

I think I’m going to need a new tailgate, mine is banged up and not sure it’s worth fixing, I have to decide soon as I’ve got hidden latches and hinge arms sitting on the bench ready to install.

With the bed corners I also welded in the solid wiper cowl.