55.2-59 '59 4x4 Build

[PuzzleTruck]

Before getting into the body work I did some odd stuff, like the rear axle spring mounts. I cut off the stabilizer bar mounts and removed the temporary spring perches, used to get the pinion angle correct. I had a new driveshaft made with both transfer case and pinion yokes. I blasted and powder coated the front and rear differential covers, and made an inner front fender mount, as one was missing. Replaced cut out sheet metal around the radio bezel to original, and bought a retro AM/FM radio with Bluetooth to go in later.

[PuzzleTruck]

More body and paint pics. I'm doing a carport paint job because that's the space I have where I can paint. Started with epoxy primer on the hood and rear fenders and steps. I hung plastic sheeting around the area the keep the wind and debris out, but found it was a real pain because it was blowing like a sail and made it really difficult to move around. So when I got to the bed side panels and tailgate the next day I just got started a little earlier and painted before the wind was too strong. Overall, they came out pretty good. I still have to sand the doors and cab (inside and out). I'm buying new front fenders, so they will be easier. I am SOOOO looking forward to when all the paint is done and I can start assembling.

[PuzzleTruck]

My next door neighbor saw me the other day and asked what all the banging was! I told him I was almost done. HA! Well, soon anyway.

[Getter-Done]

Looking good.
I like your carport area.

[dsraven]

good forward motion. keep plugging away and you will be done before you know it.
since it is a 4x4 I would recommend to go back and reshape the brake line over the rear axle so it doesn't get snagged by a random stick or whatever. on 4x4 trucks I usually try to keep the brake line close to the shape of the diff cover and sort of kept tied down right on the outer edge of the cover. that means anything you drive over that could snag the brake line doesn't get a chance because the diff housing pushes the brush or whatever out of the way first, like a shield. when backing up it works sort of the same. that way the only thing out in the open is the flex line from the frame down and there is no hiding that.

[dsraven]

man, those front fenders look good. mine, not so much. kind of a long commute for me though, lol.

[PuzzleTruck]

Good point about the rear brake line, DS Raven. I wasn't happy with the result after bending it anyway, so I was already thinking of redoing it. Now I have more reason to do so. The other thing is, I have the coiled protection cover on the original rear brake line and since I forgot to slide it on before flaring both ends. Now's my chance to correct it.

[dsraven]

Sometimes I use those rubber coated clamps with the bolt hole through them. They fully encircle the tube but provide an insulated protection against the brake line tube. I bolt that to a diff cover bolt with a short stack of flat washers as a spacer for the clamp to stand off enough to clear the lip on the diff cover edge. That keeps the tube close to the shape of the diff cover so stuff can't snag the line so easily.

[PuzzleTruck]

Some progress lately. Covered epoxy primered parts with gray high build primer. Got the cab set on the frame. Bought aftermarket front fenders, only to find out they don’t fit. I tried a second vendor and they were from the same source in Taiwan with a different label on the box. I foolishly sold my original fenders before trying new ones. I’m currently looking for a pair of good originals. I found a right one in rough but salvageable condition, but would rather find better ones.

[PuzzleTruck]

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ictureid=27042

[PuzzleTruck]

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ictureid=27040
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ictureid=27041

[PuzzleTruck]

Hi guys,
I searched far and wide and found a good left fender in NorCal, and I happened to be near there in the bay area at the time, so I bought it. It needs rear lower corner replaced, but that's an easy fix. The seller had a beautiful custom made quad-cab 68 4x4, as well as a 55 panel NAPCO 4x4 he was selling.

Then after I returned home, I found a complete front end - both fenders, grill, inner fenders and radiator support, just an hour from home. They're in decent shape but will need lower rear corners replaced. I haven't had a chance to try them on yet. Now I'm stoked!

Unfortunately, a shoulder injury has kept me from making much progress, and now I'll be leaving for two weeks on family vacation. The weather is perfect. I'm hoping good weather will continue so I can get back to it soon.

Some recent pics will follow. When I tried to upload, I got an error message that a security token is missing, so I notified admin. The black aftermarket fenders look great from a distance but the fit is really bad. When I put the used originals on, the bolt holes and contours all lined up perfectly. Some of us just have to learn the hard way. LOL

[dsraven]

nice to find good useded steel instead of the generic, doesn't really fit anything, new steel.
curious how you find the rotary burnishing tool and what works best for the old rusty body parts, as far as what drum you found worked the best. thinking of getting one of those.
sorry to hear about your shoulder but, after 4 major rotator cuff surgeries (firefighting, mechanics, dirt biking, water sports etc etc can be hard on a guy, lol) I highly recommend taking the rest period, moving the joints through a full range of movement by using a pulley hung high and a simple rope set up. move the hanging, limp, bad arm with the good arm. use those rubber work out bands for resistance traing once you get that far along. there are lots of online exercises you can research for the rotator cuff. if you wanna get it back to working well you will need to be patient and set aside some work out time. trust me on that one.
hopefully your pics will show up soon.
have a merry Christams and enjoy the down time with the family.

[dsraven]

if the neighbors complain about the hanging parts just hang a tarp over the street side and paint a nice clean garage pic on it, or maybe just a garage door pic, haha

[dsraven]

after the major body work is done and there is still a few bumps, maybe try a shrinking disc, they work great.smooths out the little high spots after the hammer and dolly work has been exhausted. a slapper and dolly may also help

[PuzzleTruck]

Good tips, DS, thanks!
Luckily (or not) the carport is behind the garage, so the hanging parts are secluded. Only problem is, the truck is too tall to drive through the garage (I built in front and back doors for drive through), which is why I bought the temporary shelter to cover the truck in the driveway.

The drum surface conditioning tool is amazing! 40 grit cuts through paint, rust and filler like butter and leaves the metal shiny. I use a disc where I can't fit it in.

I will be swimming every day in Hawaii for a couple weeks, so that should be good therapy for the shoulder. Actually both shoulders are in bad shape from years of overhead electrical work, ski injuries, mountain biking, and general abuse, but only one surgery so far.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!

[dsraven]

swimming should be good therapy as long as you take it easy so you don't make it worse by aggravation. do you know what the problem is?
I hade full thickness tears on the whole rotator cuff last time. the surgeon said his colleagues told him it would be useless to operate. he tried it and gave me strict rehab orders and it is strong again. not like it was back in the day, but pretty darn good considering. I found that doing cardio helped heal, probably due to the blood flow getting the nutrients etc where they needed to be and also helping flush out the system faster.
anyway, have fun in Hawaii and enjoy the time off. what island are you heading to. if you don't mind me asking? we have been to Maui several times and Oahu once. loved it.

[dsraven]

is the truck, like, waaaay too tall or just a little? maybe if just a little some small wheels and tires would get you out there.
as a firefighter we would let the air out of the tires so they would JUST keep the bead in order to get a vehicle out from under something. otherwise we would try jacking up the axle and slip a scoop shovel under the tire and then let all the air out. the vehicle could skid on the shovel. really good in the snow. maybe not gonna work for you, lol.
if you know somebody who needs to park their RV that would also block the view. haha
have a great Christmas, maybe santa will bring a garage door.

[PuzzleTruck]

I wasn't thinking tall 4x4 when I built the garage. Standard roll-up doors front and back. IIRC, the truck is about 5" too tall. I would have to remove the tires and put the brake hubs on skates to get it in. Not worth it since I have two cars in the garage that I don't want to leave outside.

Hawaii was nice, 70-75 degrees F most of the time. Now I'm back home and we're having the coldest temps of the year. Near freezing at night and in the 50s - low 60s daytime.

Some recent pics:

[PuzzleTruck]

More pics:

[dsraven]

depending on what type of welding you will do on the fender patch, some want a very tight fit for tig welding and some will allow a small gap for mig welding, some use the sheet metal bodywork clamps but the little flat steel tang part that fits between the two pieces will leave a gap between the parts as thick as that steel tang part is, unless you gind out a short spot to fit the tang of the clamp and allow the body parts to fit up tight. another way, if you have cleco fasteners, is to mark where you would put in a cleco and then make a small 1/2 round divet on each part so that when the parts are put together the 2 half rounds make a round hole and a cleco can be used with a small flat washer behind for the cleco to grab into and to draw the parts together. the washer can be taped on the back side, glued on or spot welded on if the spot is in an area with no access to the rear side
https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Clamp.../dp/B0787XV8SX
just a thought

[dsraven]

post 51, those are temporary U bolts and spacers, right?

[PuzzleTruck]

Originally Posted by dsraven

post 51, those are temporary U bolts and spacers, right?

Yes, temporary spacers. The U-bolts were on it. I will either leave them and cut off the excess or get new. Haven’t decided yet.

[PuzzleTruck]

So I was able to locate a front end just an hour from home on CL. It included fenders, rad support and grill, upper and lower grill supports. I disassembled it and will use the fenders. They fit great, so I patched some rust and replaced the lower rear corners. Then I stripped them so I could start with bare metal. They're in epoxy primer now waiting for the weather to improve so I can begin filler application. They have a lot of little dings in places I can't get to the back of to pound out.

[PuzzleTruck]

Pics: