"Drum to Disc" conversions 67-70 pics and videos

[Gregski]

upper control arms powderized

[Gregski]

Fun Level: 0

[Gregski]

borrrrrring......

[Gregski]

and into the oven off they went....

[Gregski]

place holder for pics of the finished cup cakes

[Gregski]

I also showed some love to the brand new six lug rotors, I hate it when they rust but I didn't wanna bake them cause I didn't know if that was good for the bearing seals

[Gregski]

Krylon Gloss Aluminum, absolutely gorgeous

[Gregski]

painted rotors, I think they turned out great

[Gregski]

better look at the lower control arms after powder coating

(not perfect by any means but clean)

[Gregski]

upper control arms with gizmos

[Gregski]

OK, these calipers were from AutoZone and were only $23 bucks (with $10 core charge if you return your old ones) what a deal! and I think they are powder coated already or at least painted, I'm glad cause I didn't wanna disassembly these to paint them as they do have rubber seals inside of them, and even painting them is a PIA cause of all the nooks and cranies

man they even come with the slide pins and pre greased too, ask me how I know, ha ha

Side Note: a few years back I scored some original calipers with the OEM part numbers so I am just going to hold on to them for reference for now, once I get tired of tripping over them in my garage I will probably just toss them, cause that's how I roll

[Gregski]

also scored some new eBay quality dust shields, I think these need to be powder coated... Great !

[Gregski]

I think I scored these made in the USA MOOG ball joints on AMAZON

[Gregski]

MOOG K6124 Upper ball joint, remember these simply bolt right up

$33 bucks each (two needed)
Made in the USA

[Gregski]

remember earlier in the thread ( Post # 25 ) when we tried to insert the 67-70 upper ball joint into our 71-72 disc brake spindle and it wouldn't fit, well these drop right in

Nut Tightening Instructions: (from MOOG)

Position stud into steering knuckle, install slotted nut and tighten to the following torque: For 1/2" diameter bolts 55-65 foot pounds.

NOTE: When the low end (55 foot pounds) of the torque range has been reached, locate cotter pin hole in the stud and then continue to tighten until first available slot in nut lines up with the hole in the stud. Never back off nut to align cotter pin hole: Always continue tightening to next available slot. Install and spread cotter pin

[Gregski]

MOOG K6117T Lower ball joints, you will need a special ball joint puller tool to press these in, available for rent from most auto parts stores

$22 bucks each (two needed)
also made in the USA

[lolife99]

I see you are using 71-72 spindles.
What is your plan for outer tie rods, center link, and inner tie rods?

[Gregski]

likewise we test fitted the lower ball joint as well, in Thread #7 we showed how the 67-70 lower ball joints do not fit the 71-72 disc brake spindles

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I see you are using 71-72 spindles.
What is your plan for outer tie rods, center link, and inner tie rods?

I think I need new outer tie rod ends at least, it's been a while since I read your instructions, and to make things more complicated I am swapping over from a power steering box to a manual because I plan on using a Prius electric power steering assist (not sure if you are aware but I am building a 100% electric powered truck)

so I wonder if the pitman arm needs to change as well

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I think I need new outer tie rod ends at least, it's been a while since I read your instructions, and to make things more complicated I am swapping over from a power steering box to a manual because I plan on using a Prius electric power steering assist (not sure if you are aware but I am building a 100% electric powered truck)

so I wonder if the pitman arm needs to change as well

The tie rods and ball joint swap is why I highly recommend using aftermarket 63-70 conversion spindles.
They are available in drop and standard spindles.
This keeps all your steering parts correct for your 69.

You have a couple options:
1) locate a 71-72 centerlink and use all 71-72 inner and outer tie rods.

2) use your original centerlink and convert to run 71-72 outer tie rods.
This is where it gets tricky.
Your original 69 outer tie rods won’t fit so you will need 71-72 tie rods to match your 71-72 spindles.

Except your 69 outers are LH thread and 5/8” diameter.
The 71-72 outers are RH thread and 11/16” diameter.

So to connect these to your 69 center link you have to:
a) buy a 5/8” to 11/16” conversion tie rod sleeve.
b) use 67-70 outer tie rods at the INNER location. (LH thread)
c) buy 71-72 outers to fit your spindles. (RH thread)

If you had purchase 63-70 conversion spindles
You could use all 67-70 steering parts.
But you are past that now.

CPP, PerformanceOnline, Edelbrock, QA1, and Pro Performance all sell the tie rod adapter sleeves.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The tie rods and ball joint swap is why I highly recommend using aftermarket 63-70 conversion spindles.
They are available in drop and standard spindles.
This keeps all your steering parts correct for your 69.

You have a couple options:
1) locate a 71-72 centerlink and use all 71-72 inner and outer tie rods.

2) use your original centerlink and convert to run 71-72 outer tie rods.
This is where it gets tricky.
Your original 69 outer tie rods won’t fit so you will need 71-72 tie rods to match your 71-72 spindles.

Except your 69 outers are LH thread and 5/8” diameter.
The 71-72 outers are RH thread and 11/16” diameter.

So to connect these to your 69 center link you have to:
a) buy a 5/8” to 11/16” conversion tie rod sleeve.
b) use 67-70 outer tie rods at the INNER location. (LH thread)
c) buy 71-72 outers to fit your spindles. (RH thread)

If you had purchase 63-70 conversion spindles
You could use all 67-70 steering parts.
But you are past that now.

CPP, PerformanceOnline, Edelbrock, QA1, and Pro Performance all sell the tie rod adapter sleeves.

thank you Keith I think it would be helpful if you edited your original thread something to this effect:

2) 67-70 truck owners can now purchase "year specific" standard and drop spindles, from many aftermarket suspension vendors.
* No need to change ball joints.
* No need to change center steering link and tie rod ends.
* These new "conversion disc brake spindles" are a true "bolt-on" mod to add disc brakes to your truck.

knowing that may have pushed me over the hump and I may have just bough a whole used 71-72 crossmember with control arms, spindles, and steering link

now it makes sense why my parts pimp always just swaps the entire 71-72 front end on to the 67-70 trucks

please note I am not complaining or ranting just trying to help others out, and the more we know the better

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Gregski

thank you Keith I think it would be helpful if you edited your original thread something to this effect:

2) 67-70 truck owners can now purchase "year specific" standard and drop spindles, from many aftermarket suspension vendors.
* No need to change ball joints.
* No need to change center steering link and tie rod ends.
* These new "conversion disc brake spindles" are a true "bolt-on" mod to add disc brakes to your truck.

knowing that may have pushed me over the hump and I may have just bough a whole used 71-72 crossmember with control arms, spindles, and steering link

now it makes sense why my parts pimp always just swaps the entire 71-72 front end on to the 67-70 trucks

please note I am not complaining or ranting just trying to help others out, and the more we know the better

See I’m just the opposite.
Those 71-72 front clips are going to dry up and be gone some day.
I never suggest changing the crossmember itself.
I always suggest inspecting and rebuilding just like you are doing.
The next donor parts are the 73-87 stuff.
They can also be used. But I don’t suggest swapping the crossmember on them either.
Just the steering and the a-arms if you go that route

The 63-70 conversion spindles are my number one choice.
You get NEW spindles to work with new bearings, tie rods and balljoints.
Your remaining steering and suspension parts match your year of truck

Add 71-87 1.25” HD rotors (or aftermarket 6-lug rotors) and calipers and a disc brake master cylinder and you’re good to go.
(Of course you need an adjustable proportioning valve or a oem style 71/87 prop valve)

Also I can’t change the old sticky I wrote years ago.
I’m no longer a moderator.

Keep doing what your doing.
Because you are doing it right.
Too many people throwing “35+ year old” worn out parts under their truck, JUST to get disc brakes.

[lolife99]

I addressed the steering issues in this section:

QUOTE:

67-70 truck with:

71-72 Crossmember Not Yet Installed:
1) Your truck's donor 71-72 crossmember came from the factory with disc brakes.
* You can swap out the entire 67-70 crossmember in one unit.
* Only a few holes will need to be drilled or elongated.
* The best option is to use all of the 71-72 steering components.
(centerlink, tie rods, idler arm, steering box and pitman arm)

2) 67-70 steering linkage use a different centerlink and tie rods, than the 71-72 crossmember you will be installing.

3) 67-70 tie rods are 5/8" diameter,... 71-72 tie rods are 11/16" diameter (with the opposite thread direction).
* 67-70 inner tie rods are RH thread vs. 71-72 inner tie rods (that are LH thread).
* 67-70 outer tie rods are LH thread vs 71-72 outer tie rods (that are RH thread).
* Again,... It's easiest to just use all of the 71-72 steering linkage.
* You can also use all of the 73-87 steering linkage, but you will have to change the outer tie rods to the 71-72 version to match the 71-72 spindle.

4) If you must use your 67-70 centerlink and inner tie rods:
* You will be require to use a "conversion" tie rod sleeve to connect the 67-70 5/8" diameter tie rod,... to the 71-72 11/16" diameter outer tie rod.
* Here is the problem: The 67-70 inner tie rod is RH thread. The 71-72 outer tie rod is also RH thread.
* To correct this,... you must use a 63-70 outer tie rod in the inner location.
* (The 67-70 outer tie rod is LH thread)

5) If you just want to add 71-72 spindles to your existing 67-70 a-arms,... you will need to change the 67-70 upper and lower ball joint to 71-72 upper and lower ball joints.
* The outer tie rod will have to be a 71-72 outer tie rod also. (see Step #4 above)

6) Rubber brake hoses:
* You must change to a disc brake style hose.
* Early Classic Enterprises, and other suspension vendors, make a "conversion" brake hose that will connect the disc brake caliper, to the original 67-70 brake hose steel line location.
* 71-72 hoses is another option. (but I haven't personally confirmed if the steel line connection is the correct size).
* Another option is to use 73-87 hoses, (cheaper to purchase), but they are much longer, and also may need fitting adapters.
* Aftermarket steel braided hoses and AN fittings is another option.

7) You can also just swap all the components from the a-arms out and leave your original 67-70 crossmember in place.
* This will require you to completly disassemble both the original 67-70 suspension and the 71-72 donor suspension.
* This is also a good time to clean, inspect, replace or rebuild any needed components.

[lolife99]

There are so many different ways to accomplish a disc brake swap,… and I tried to cover all possible combinations,… but until you get into doing the swap yourself, you don’t see the problems with Mismatched components.

That whole thread came about after I bought some swap meet 71-72 drop spindles for my 69 c10.
I gave $100 for a brand new set and thought I was going to convert to disc brakes on the cheap.
I would have been way ahead in the long run to have just bought 63-70 conversion spindles.

[Gregski]

so one of these dust shields is the only thing that has failed me when powder coating, and I tried to powder coat this monkey twice, and it failed both times, what gives?