S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by dettmer13

joedoh, The front clip is facing down right now because I was following the Stovebolt forum directions to get my hood alignment and fenders to line up before I welded in my core support, but I will make the proper adjustment to check for wheel clearance first. Also, I haven't messed with the suspension at all yet. Everything is just as stock as it came on the S10. I'll get under the truck and make some measurements to be sure everything is level and plumb. I'm pretty sure I wasn't drinking when I fabbed them and/or tacked them in. I do have the motor and transmission in the truck right now, but not the radiator. I'll let you know what I find.

be sure to put your grill in. I've noticed that the front of the fenders sags a little when it's out, I bet that once you put the grill in those wheels will be centered in the wheel well.

[dettmer13]

Originally Posted by skymangs

be sure to put your grill in. I've noticed that the front of the fenders sags a little when it's out, I bet that once you put the grill in those wheels will be centered in the wheel well.

Thanks for the input everyone! After putting the grill in and adjusting my core support up about 2", everything is lined up in the wheel wells. I don't know what I'd do with out this forum to help me out.

Also, another question to those have done the Blazer big brakes conversion. I have a 1992 S10 as the frame for my 51. I've seen forums here where some have used the Belltech 2102 (2" drop spindles) for a 98-03 Chevy Blazer on an older S10 upper and lower control arms. Have any of you heard of this? I was checking HUSSEY's build for "Albert" and it looked like he did this. Can anyone foresee any issues with geometry and alignment? Thanks in advance!!

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by skymangs

be sure to put your grill in. I've noticed that the front of the fenders sags a little when it's out, I bet that once you put the grill in those wheels will be centered in the wheel well.

I happened to notice this on mine too. They sag inward and the edge of the grill actually pushes the base of the fenders outward to their correct position. I kept thinking the fenders were too narrow until the grill was in and it all made sense. Amazing how much flex and movement exists in the body panels.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dettmer13

I've seen forums here where some have used the Belltech 2102 (2" drop spindles) for a 98-03 Chevy Blazer on an older S10 upper and lower control arms. Have any of you heard of this? I was checking HUSSEY's build for "Albert" and it looked like he did this. Can anyone foresee any issues with geometry and alignment? Thanks in advance!!

hussey did it (confirming, I remember it), and I did it on my 47 gmc, its a great brake upgrade. you will need to keep the truck rubber brake hoses because the blazer hoses have a different fitting at the hard line. it aint cheap though. the blazer drop spindles are twice as much as the truck and then you should figure to replace the bearings and calipers and rotors and pads. when you are done I think you will find you kept the caliper bolts and the bearing bolts.

there is no change to geometry or alignment. there is a great improvement in braking though!

[my80schild]

hello all!! I have been reading all these post for the last few weeks as I am, as well as so many of you are doing these s10 frame swaps. I have come to a stoping point and need help that I don't think I have seen posted up yet (or at least so I think).

question: how has everyone routed the wiring harnesses into dash? have you all been cutting a big hole through the firewall and feeding the wires through the drivers side?(thats how I purchased my half finished s10/3100 came to me) if so how did you guys close or seal the hole afterwards.
thanks and sorry if this has already been discussed(just signed up to this forum and have little experience with these trucks)
If so how have

[99 to Life]

what harness are you referring to? an aftermarket wiring harness or stock s10 harness/engine harness? How big a hole you talking about? they make grommets, but not sure how big they really go and or how big of a hole you are talking about. When I wire headlights for example using aftermarket harness, i'll route them through the cowl area and up the front fender to hide them. or you could run just those wires out through its own hole in firewall and run them up along the inner fenders. Options are endless, just need to give us some pics or info.

[HUSSEY]

I used pipe sealing grommets made by Kennard that are flexible. I installed the grommet first, then ran the wires through them.

http://www.kennardind.com/grommets.htm

I bought an assortment from McMaster Carr, on their site search for: pipe sealing grommets.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-seali...mmets/=1as7odm

Sealsit makes a split grommet. I didn't care for the way they looked and I think they're a bit over priced.

http://sealsit.com/product-category/split-grommet-seal/

[my80schild]

thanks for the quick response guys. And sorry, yes it is 2001 s10 truck and s10 engine harness. I'm more referring to the pcm, ecu, fuse box and multiple little wiring boxes(see pics as reference) the firewall was cut( see first pic) and everything was stuffed under the dash and zip tied up there (super getto). I am wanting to get the wires and boxes hidden better match or slim down I'm 6inch firewall hole and wondering the course of action.

99 to life, i do like the idea of going through the cowl. I was wondering if anyone runs the wires through the passenger inner cowl and into the passenger kick panel compartment?(see last picture) and just hang as many of the wires as possible




5

[my80schild]

crap sorry guys. newbie here haven't been on a forum ever and just learned how to post pictures on a forum after watching three youtube videos(insert face palm). so sorry for image size

[99 to Life]

you can run some stuff through that pass side cowl. I ran headlight wires and heater hoses through there.

[joedoh]

in this picture



there is only thing that needs to pass through the firewall, and its not what you are holding, its the big connector to the left and below that has the threaded grommet.

you can trace that shape and make the firewall hole the same, then the threaded studs will hold it tight to the firewall and seal it.

I have done 3 trucks with 98-03 harnesses, everything else you are showing goes in or under the dash. there is a big fusebox/distribution that goes under the hood, and all the other underhood stuff/rear harnesses plug into it. I lost the pictures in my threads but I will dig some up to show you where and how I mounted it all.

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by dettmer13

Also, another question to those have done the Blazer big brakes conversion. I have a 1992 S10 as the frame for my 51. I've seen forums here where some have used the Belltech 2102 (2" drop spindles) for a 98-03 Chevy Blazer on an older S10 upper and lower control arms. Have any of you heard of this? I was checking HUSSEY's build for "Albert" and it looked like he did this. Can anyone foresee any issues with geometry and alignment? Thanks in advance!!

I would like some info on this also. Curious about the extra stress on this single , one piece style front wheel bearing especially if you use wheel spacers.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Desert1957

I would like some info on this also. Curious about the extra stress on this single , one piece style front wheel bearing especially if you use wheel spacers.

not sure how anyone would/could answer about extra stress, except to say that the same bearings are used on the 4x4 that have the hub 2" further outboard in the wheel and they are all ok, sold that way every year of production. as for unscientific real world application the bearings on my 47 are still driven every day two (sheesh almost three, cant believe it) years later.



I found some bad pictures of the firewall pass thru for that big grommet-ed hole, look in the upper right of this picture above and beside the booster

IMG_5243 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

and this is the distribution block that mounts underhood.

IMG_4153 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

[motorhead153]

So this might have been covered already and if so where would I find info tricks and tips? I have a 52 short box and a extended cab S10 and correct me if I'm wrong the S10's wheel base is 122.9 and the 52 is 116.0. So where is the best place to take 7ish inches out?

[skymangs]

my80schild, you can absolutely hide the wiring between the inner and outer fender. On my 49 I hid the a/c lines there.

[skymangs]

motorhead153, honestly I've always started with a single cab long bed. but, if I was to start with an extended cab I think I'd cut in front of the hanger bearing.

[steve aleve]

I just ordered a set of 20" Ridler 695's with a machined lip for my 54 that's on an S-10 frame. The specs are below.

Fronts:
695 - 2861g
20 x 8.5 (4.75 backspace)

Rears:
695 - 2161g
20 x 10 (5.5 backspace)

I have a 4wd blazer axle on the back and I wanted to check with anyone who has used this setup to see what kind of spacers will be needed if any (front and back). I have seen a few that have 2" spacers on the rear axle but it has been on 2wd axles. any info will be appreciated!

Thanks

[skymangs]

you will need 2" spacers or the front and none on the back.

[steve aleve]

Thanks Chris!

[skymangs]

you bet.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

motorhead153, honestly I've always started with a single cab long bed. but, if I was to start with an extended cab I think I'd cut in front of the hanger bearing.

to add to that, all 2wd s10 trucks and blazers use the same front frame half and different rear frame halves that are longer or shorter (or a different shape in the case of the blazer) to make the different wheelbases. there is a factory weld joint where the rear section is slipped inside the front section, its roughly under where the door was, and you can grind the factory welds and slip it apart, cut off the extra, and slip it back together and weld it. a slip joint is a little easier to keep square and weld strongly than a butt joint.

[motorhead153]

Originally Posted by joedoh

to add to that, all 2wd s10 trucks and blazers use the same front frame half and different rear frame halves that are longer or shorter (or a different shape in the case of the blazer) to make the different wheelbases. there is a factory weld joint where the rear section is slipped inside the front section, its roughly under where the door was, and you can grind the factory welds and slip it apart, cut off the extra, and slip it back together and weld it. a slip joint is a little easier to keep square and weld strongly than a butt joint.

Great tip! I crawled under the truck last night and saw the area your referring too, looks like it could be the best place to shorten it up. All I have left to remove is the S10 cab, I'm hoping to remove it today and Ill have a better look. So next newbie question, according the the web the s10 LBRC wheelbase is 117.9 and the 52 SBRC is 116. since I'm having to shorten the chassis anyway which WB should I go for?

Great thread by the way! Wealth of knowledge!

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by motorhead153

Great tip! I crawled under the truck last night and saw the area your referring too, looks like it could be the best place to shorten it up. All I have left to remove is the S10 cab, I'm hoping to remove it today and Ill have a better look. So next newbie question, according the the web the s10 LBRC wheelbase is 117.9 and the 52 SBRC is 116. since I'm having to shorten the chassis anyway which WB should I go for?

Great thread by the way! Wealth of knowledge!

make it 117. the stock truck had the rear axle 1" forward of centered in the rear wheelwell. This was supposedly done so that when the truck had a heavy load the wheels would be centered. but who are we kidding, we would never put a heavy load in them! 117" is what you want.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

make it 117. the stock truck had the rear axle 1" forward of centered in the rear wheelwell. This was supposedly done so that when the truck had a heavy load the wheels would be centered. but who are we kidding, we would never put a heavy load in them! 117" is what you want.

well and the angle of the s10 control arms up front pull the wheels back when you lower it, so going with 117 also helps that problem if you are planning on lowering it

[motorhead153]

Originally Posted by skymangs

make it 117. the stock truck had the rear axle 1" forward of centered in the rear wheelwell. This was supposedly done so that when the truck had a heavy load the wheels would be centered. but who are we kidding, we would never put a heavy load in them! 117" is what you want.

Originally Posted by joedoh

well and the angle of the s10 control arms up front pull the wheels back when you lower it, so going with 117 also helps that problem if you are planning on lowering it

Great tips and info guys!! the most I might do with it is put a hitch on to pull our boat so yeah not a lot of weight is not going to be going in the back.

And I do plan on lowering it 3/4ish

I now have the cab off and have stripped the frame of all its unnecessary weight. The area that is joined from the factory is where be doing to cut.