Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Lubriplate lithium grease. Stable over a very broad temperature so you don't have the clutch and brakes work differently when it's cold versus when it's hot. Excellent for metal on metal, metal on plastic/nylon bushings, roller bearings, etc.

http://www.skygeek.com/lubriplate-63...4-oz-tube.html

Note To Self: if you are going to ask Rich for advice than be a man and follow his advice~ hee hee

just bought 14 oz Tube of Lubriplate 630-2 NLGI No. 2 Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease from Sky Geek, it always stings a bit when you pay more for shipping $12 bucks than the actual product $6 bucks. Oh well

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Note To Self: if you are going to ask Rich for advice than be a man and follow his advice~ hee hee

just bought 14 oz Tube of Lubriplate 630-2 NLGI No. 2 Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease from Sky Geek, it always stings a bit when you pay more for shipping $12 bucks than the actual product $6 bucks. Oh well

HAHAHA.

The good news is that tube will probably last you forever. It's good for all kinds of things -- cars, motorcycles, toy trains, CD-ROM drive tray sliders, garage door openers, barbecue rotisserie motors, lawn mowers, etcetcetc. If it has gears or bearings or bushings, and doesn't have active lubrication from a sump (like engine, trans, transfer case and diff all do) then it's the way to go. But it doesn't take much. No need to glop it on. A 14 oz. tube is a lifetime supply for most people. I'm still using a 1-lb. tin of it my father gave me 50+ years ago.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

HAHAHA.

The good news is that tube will probably last you forever. It's good for all kinds of things -- cars, motorcycles, toy trains, CD-ROM drive tray sliders, garage door openers, barbecue rotisserie motors, lawn mowers, etcetcetc.

Honey, honey... this guy says I need to buy a motorcycle [again] or the expensive grease I bought is going to go to waste !!! Honey?

[rich weyand]

That should work. Lubriplate is the brand I have the most faith in, but white lithium grease is what you want.

[68post]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

That should work. Lubriplate is the brand I have the most faith in, but white lithium grease is what you want.

Me too , their "Aeroplate" is the only grease ,( beside Genie's over-priced grease ), that'll work in cold weather to grease a screw-drive garage door operator rail/screw and not drag the noisy p.o.s. down ! (I had to find out the hard way )

[rusty76]

Looking great. You do go all the way out!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Looking great. You do go all the way out!

Thank you, I hate half @ssing stuff, so I try not to do that, time and funds permitting of course

[greg64]

I agree with Rich that the lithium grease is the stuff to use. But how far wrong can you really go? Any grease is going to be better then the dry fittings you currently have.

[rich weyand]

The biggest issue is to get one with a wide temperature range, so 1) it doesn't get tight when cold and 2) doesn't run and drip when hot. That's why I say a lithium grease.

[rich weyand]

Oh, BTW, be careful with that stuff. If you drop a glop of it on the floor, people will be losing their footing on that spot for the next hundred years no matter what you do to wipe it up.

Use very sparingly.

[rich weyand]

Hey! Don't get her mad at ME!

[Gregski]

spent some time cleaning the tiny bits

remember these rusty brake pedal parts, here they are after a night in an acid bath

[Gregski]

oh snap, where's that hair pin clip thingie ???

[Gregski]

lets see if I lost any parts during the clutch pedal part cleaning

[Gregski]

picked up some Dormans' BRAKE & CLUTCH BUSHINGS from O'Reillys' for $4.00 bucks (two pairs of bushings from LMC Truck would run me $23 bucks)

The package is for FORD / GM so you know what that means? It don't fit good neither of them? LOL

On the back it reads:

Ford Cars 1994-73

GM Cars and Trucks 1995-55

but they don't tell you which is which, AWESOME!

I believe two of the three pairs might could work. I say might could, cause one pair fits kinda snug (like the original brake one did) the other fits a bit loose (like the original clutch one did)

HOWEVER questions being.

- Was the original brake one snug cause it was rusted and dry as a bone, or is it supposed to be that way?

- Was the original clutch one loose cause it was deteriorated and worn out, or is it supposed to be that way?

Better question is how should these fit? Should the metal sleeve rotated freely in the plastic bushings or should it be snug in there and not move? Who knows?

[rich weyand]

The flange on a bushing points at the part with respect to which the bushing should stay stationary, and away from the part with respect to which the bushing should move.

So in both of those, the shaft should rotate within the bushing.

[Gregski]

also picked up this PEDAL AND SHIFT LINKAGE BUSHING KIT for $7.00 bucks also by Dormans'

DODGE/FORD/GM... hmmm even worse, LOL

CONTENTS (Russian roulette style)

3 Selector Lever Bushings
1 Throttle Valve Bushing
1 Pedal Bushing

... again no idea which is which, might as well say "STUFF"

I hope the white one on the bottom will fit / work in the top hole of the clutch pedal to receive the metal rod/linkage, we shall see

FYI - LMC Truck does not carry this part (they hardly have what I really need, they seem to specialize in what I want though, if you get what I'm saying)

Do I dare go to the Stealership for these?!

[Gregski]

one of the challenges of putting something together where it could have had parts missing even before you touched it, is not knowing what's missing

Could someone tell me please what went on this stub on the clutch pedal?

(thanks for nothing GM Service Manual)

[68post]

Yes, the safety start switch that will only let the starter crank when the clutch pedal is depressed (no start in gear / clutch out ).

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 68post

Yes, the safety start switch that will only let the starter crank when the clutch pedal is depressed (no start in gear / clutch out ).

I believe the white piece which is the start safety switch thing you are refering to goes into the second hole from the top on the pedal, the first hole from the top being for the down rod linkage

[68post]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I believe the white piece which is the start safety switch thing you are refering to goes into the second hole from the top on the pedal, the first hole from the top being for the down rod linkage

Sorry, I thought the switch was on a post, ( been ten years since I had to fix my last manual truck), didn't see yours hanging below the dash anywhere and thought it had been deleted ( ie.. "Bubba fixed").

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by 68post

Sorry, I thought the switch was on a post, ( been ten years since I had to fix my last manual truck), didn't see yours hanging below the dash anywhere and thought it had been deleted ( ie.. "Bubba fixed").

Hah! Just call me "Bubba" then because I absolutely hate those clutch start switches. They are the 2nd thing I remove from a new to me vehicle. The first thing you ask...... those damn silly buzzers.

[68post]

Originally Posted by Titomars

Hah! Just call me "Bubba" then because I absolutely hate those clutch start switches. They are the 2nd thing I remove from a new to me vehicle. The first thing you ask...... those damn silly buzzers.

...hey Bubba...LOL

[68post]

Is yours tuck-up under the dash ?

[greg64]

Greg, what goes on that stub on the pedal is a big tension spring. What it does is hold the pedal in the fully up position, so the the weight of the pedal doesn't cause the throwout bearing to constantly ride against the clutch fingers. But it also increases the pressure to disengage the clutch a bit. The throwout bearings weren't intended to spin constantly when our trucks were made. But I think most modern throwout bearings actually do spin all the time.