Working Man's Burbon

[FLYNAVY30]

I would measure your static ride height, from the ground to the bottom shock mount and from the ground to the top shock mount, then call Ride Tech and give them that info. I'm also running their shocks, but the shock is set up to run in a given range, so knowing the static ride height will ensure they get you the properly sized and valved shock for your application. Having a rough vehicle weight will also help.

[HO455]

Thanks. I was hoping for the easy way. But never the less, I will wait until I have finished adjusting the springs. At present the driver's side appears to sit higher than the passenger side. I have yet to put a tape measure on it so it may be just my imagination.
I have the weight though. I finally made a run to the dump without a trailer and now I know the WMB weighs 4780. That was without the 2nd row seat installed so it should be about 150 lbs more with it installed.

[FLYNAVY30]

Good stuff....you'll like the Ride Tech shocks!

If you decide you want to run double adjustable, I'm using Viking on my '64 Corvette and really like those as well. Made in America, and a VERY competitive price for true double adjustable shocks.

[72MARIO]

I used the following.

Fronts are 22149841. My heights are 15 extended 12 ride 10.5 compressed.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

I used the following.

Fronts are 22149841. My heights are 15 extended 12 ride 10.5 compressed.

Excellent! Thank you very much.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30

Good stuff....you'll like the Ride Tech shocks!

If you decide you want to run double adjustable, I'm using Viking on my '64 Corvette and really like those as well. Made in America, and a VERY competitive price for true double adjustable shocks.

Good to hear your feedback on the Viking shocks. I have been considering them for my Firebird.

[SkidmoreGarage]

I just ordered a set of viking double adjustables for the rear of my c20. I decided a double adjustable made sense for a truck that may do double duty, where I may want low compression dampening for weight transfer, but may want a lot if I put something in the bed to stop it from slamming the bumpstops over sharp hits. With each of these adjustments it's nice to also adjust rebound to keep the tires in contact with the road.

I'd recommend giving no limit engineering a call. They are dealers for ridetech and viking with great prices (no really, the price they offered was as good as I could find anywhere without any haggling), but they are also willing to talk through what may be options for your specific application. They were happy to accommodate me, selling individual parts that I needed and sending photos and dimensions for things I didn't buy.

[HO455]

Thanks for the tip.

[HO455]

I finally got my new good used wiper posts and linkages installed! The old ones had between 1/8" to 3/16" of slop in them. If I had to use the wipers for more than 15 minutes the squeaking would begin. Then I would have to hop out and spray them down with some lube and they would be quiet for a day or so.
I got nice used ones from Mel at Classic Bowtie. I soaked them in a can of oil for a month before installing. Sorry no photos time just super smooth wiper action.

But I do have pictures of my rear window defroster version 2. It is similar to the first one I built but this one has 3 fans!
The basic plan is pretty simple but trying to keep it as small and as light as possible has made it take longer than expected. Integrating the dome light added to the packaging problems.

[HO455]

More on the defroster. The side vent grilles are out of an early 2000's Dodge Durango or Caliper dash, I don't which remember for sure.
Getting the wires routed without pinching them took a couple of hours as I had to grind groves in the fan housings and then use the old ladies hot glue gun to lock the wires in place. I included a switch to allow me to turn the dome lights on from the rear. I must have owned my S10 Blazer for at least 5 years before I discovered the switch at the rear for the dome light. I've been wanting one on the WMB from the start. I even started on one at one point but gave up when I decided to to a rear defroster.
I still have to create a grille for the air intake area in the top front and do a final coat of paint. I feel that giving it a month of testing would be prudent before finishing it off.
Driving around and having the fan on i can feel air moving past my head so I think it is going to work. Plus it isn't as loud as I was expecting it to be so that is a nice bonus. I actually think the first one was louder.

[LockDoc]

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Looks good. My Panel Truck has enough leaks around the barn doors that I don't have a problem with ventilation back there. The windows never fog up....

LockDoc

[HO455]

Thanks Doc!
Never had a problem with the windows fogging up until I replaced the wood floor. Who knew all those holes were helpful.

[HO455]

The defroster is a success!
After I drove home after work on Friday, I let the truck sit 45 minutes and then took a trip up to Vancouver. (Where I met a nice guy and bought some Burban parts. Friday was a good day.)
The rear wndow and the side windows were fogged when I got in the truck and by the time I drove 7 blocks and waited for one traffic light the back window was 75% clear and after more 10 minutes the rest of the fog was clear except for small spot next to my left shoulder.

[LockDoc]

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Good deal! That will make it more enjoyable to drive for sure....

LockDoc

[Dieselwrencher]

Great deal on the new defogger! I'm guessing you'll use it a lot where you live.

[HO455]

Thanks guys. I'm sure it will get plenty of use along with my delay wiper module.

[HO455]

Made good use of Mondays nice weather and shot out to the Upull it in Sherwood. Got a rear sway bar from an 82 Trans Am. A pair of door handle relays, a heater box lower air deflector, a heater switch, some 67 front turn signal connectors out of a 67 Chevy long bed and a transmission dipstick from a 80 El Camino.
The 67 is quite rusty and pretty well picked over. It is a big window truck with what looks to be a Powerglide for a transmission.

[HO455]

I have discovered that the rear defroster moves so much air that when it meets the heat from the front defroster next to my shoulder it fogs the driver's side wndow. I guess 2 fans would have probably been enough to do the job.

At some point before 12/5/18 and after 8/29/17 I replaced the pressure switch for the compressor. If I still had a memory would know when. Thank goodness I have this thread to help me if only I could remember to post everything.
Anyway at some point the pressure switch that was installed when I bought the WMB failed and I replaced it with a new one from Viair. I chose the Viair switch due to the nice rubber protective coating on it and I felt it was a better brand. However it has failed in the on position. Thankfully I decided to install the pressure relief valve in the system otherwise who knows what else would have broken.
After replacing the switch and inspecting it was noticed the deterioration of the outer coating around the wires (photos 1&2) so I cut the rubber coating off thinking there might be water underneath that was shorting the wires and keeping the compressor running.
I didn't find any sign of water or shorts so even though the coating wasn't looking good on the outside it was still keeping moisture out. When I looked into the air inlet port on the bottom it was obvious the problem is corrosion inside of the switch.
I find this unacceptable! This is a pressure switch sold for use in a small tank automobile system where there is going to be moisture/water in the tank. It should not be so susceptible to water damage.
For a replacement I used a Air Lift Pressure Switch # 24544. At least the body is brass and should be less likely to corrode.(The brass you see in the first 2 photos is a 1/4 NPT to 3/8 NPT adapter bushing.) Time will tell though. I also went to a lower PSI range since I no longer have front air bags. That should reduce wear on the compressor.

[HO455]

I had run out to my sister's plsc e and drop off some lumber. I decided to take Marine Drive to avoid traffic. I was a beautiful morning and Mt Hood was larger than life. So stopped and took a picture. Same location as a similar picture I took several years ago. This time I tried to get the mountain to show up better. Which it certainly does, but now it looks like a painted set from an old movie.

[LockDoc]

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You are right, it looks like the mountain is hanging out there in mid air. Still a neat picture though.

LockDoc

[Ol Blue K20]

Beautiful picture!

[HO455]

Thanks guys. I'm glad took the time to retake the photo. My being in the right location on a day when Mt Hood is that clear are very rare.

[HO455]

I finally was able to complete a little project I started months ago on the WMB. I relocated the Gearvendor auto/manual switch and the indicator lights. The first photo shows where they got stuck (literally with double sided tape) during the installation of the GV unit. They got moved over slightly as I kept bumping it with my shin. The other reason for the redo is the indicator lights are too bright at night. After some head scratching I came up with a nice out of the way location where the lights won't be pointed straight at my eyes.
I decided to put all 3 components in the ashtray so I could operate the switch without opening the ashtray and the lights would shine downwards so I would only see the reflection during the day and just a soft glow at night.
I laid out the 3 holes and drilled them before cutting 3 sides around them with a dremel. Then I bent the tab so the switch was angled for easy operation with one finger from under the the ashtray face plate. Bending the tab also made the switch sit flatter (More space inside) and it moved the switch lever up out of sight.
I used 5 mm LEDs with surface mount adapters. The adapters were metric and I did not have the perfect drill bit so they ended up a bit loose. But a couple drops of super glue seemed to lock them down nice and secure.
I failed to get any pictures of how I wired the LEDs. But basically there is a 470 resistor soldered inline with positive lead of each one. All the leads are protected by heat shrink tubing. (Photo #3) Also not shown are the crimp terminals I put on the ends of the leads to allow me to plug them directly into the GV connectors.
And the final result.

[HO455]

And there's still room for all the important stuff that lives in the ashtray.

[HO455]

I had to order some wiper blades after was unable to source a set refills locally. Ended up with these OER /Trico refills.
I have say I am not real happy with them. The don't really fit the arms well. The ribs on the back don't clear the folded tabs that hold the blade preventing the blade from sliding back and forth as the blade moves across the glass. (Photo 2)
After some fiddling about I decided to remove the ribs that were hanging up and causing the blade to bow. (Photo 3. Red arrow shows where the hang up is. Blue line is the bowed area.)
I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to remove 2 ribs on each blade. (Photo 4).
Photo shows the blade sitting much better on the glass, however in actual use the blades won't wipe clean in both directions. Even with additional tweaking of the metal stiffeners the blades don't work well.
I believe the reason is compared to the old blades these do not allow the blades to float in the arm. Definitely going to have to mess with these a bunch more.
Oh and they whistle when going 40-45 mph!
Here in NW Oregon wipers are important!