S10 Swap how to

[KRFitz]

I'm looking for rear axle recommendations. I'm using a 2001 S10 for my swap and I would like a wider rear axle for proper tire width. I see the 4 x 4 models suggested, but when searching the auto wreckers what years would I need to look for? Do some years have disc breaks, etc.? Do I need to find a matching gear ratio? Mine is a GU4 code 3.08 ratio. Thanks,

[joedoh]

98+blazers/jimmys (2wd and 4x4) have rear discs. the only reason to find a matching ratio is if you are using the stock s10 tire sizes, transmission and gauges, otherwise you will probably benefit in acceleration by going to a numerically higher ratio.

the difference in braking performance with rear discs is negligible. the appropriately sized drums will do the same job as discs on the rear of the truck, but they sure look cooler than drums on wheels with big windows.

4x4 axles are about 4 inches wider (2" per side) than a 2wd axle. there is a model called a ZR2 that got an even wider axle, about 4 inches wider per side AND will come as an 8.5 rear end, very strong.

[KRFitz]

So, if I'm not to worried about disc brakes or gear ratio, I can look for and use any year 4x4 S10/Blazer/Jimmy? Thanks,

[tlorber]

You should first have an idea of what tires and wheels (and their offsets) you want to use, unless you plan on tubbing the bed.

I have a '70 Chevelle axle on my back end and I still had to use 1/2 inch spacers to push the wheels out so that they wouldn't hit the bed sides. I want to be able to carry plywood or drywall occasionally, so I wanted to keep the appx 49" bed width. If you plan on running tubs, you have a lot more flexibility on your axle width.

[KRFitz]

Originally Posted by tlorber

You should first have an idea of what tires and wheels (and their offsets) you want to use, unless you plan on tubbing the bed.

I have a '70 Chevelle axle on my back end and I still had to use 1/2 inch spacers to push the wheels out so that they wouldn't hit the bed sides. I want to be able to carry plywood or drywall occasionally, so I wanted to keep the appx 49" bed width. If you plan on running tubs, you have a lot more flexibility on your axle width.

Great point on the 4ft wide material hauling. Thanks,

[Wyattdog2]

when trying to put the front fenders and sheet metal back on the truck with a new s10 frame, is it best to start with the radiator support then the inner and outer fenders? I am trying to figure out how much I need to trim the inner fenders actually. oopps, think I was on the wrong page.

[joedoh]

when I put the front end on for mock up, I put the whole clip together (truthfully on most trucks I dont even take it apart), cut the core support and inner fenders where skymangs indicates on the first page of this thread. I get a helper (usually its my left arm helping my right though) and get the rear of the fenders with a couple bolts to the cab (just one on each side), then use a jack to set the front height by shutting the hood to be sure everything lines up. the jack will let you lift/trim/lower/check hood alignment.

I see people take the whole front end all the way apart and dont really understand why. sure if you are doing a real paint job or have collision damage (like my current truck) it makes sense, but if you are just doing a rust-oration and an cruiser s10 swap you can leave it all together. if you unbolt it at the cab (inners and outer fenders) and unbolt/cut the core support, its pretty easy to use leverage and tilt it over the fenders.

[NovaArt]

anyone out there i'm new to forum i have 87 s10 118 wheelbase frame i used code 504 frame kit . I diden't like how high it was so i cut there kit to make cab 3'" off frame. cut rad support the same.Now when i pre fit grill the grill brackets hit the frame the frame horns There are cut just in front of the steering box.And now the rad is 3"high above support I'm getting frustrated was going to sell s10 frame going with stock frame i have a lot in this frame can anyone help novaart

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by NovaArt

anyone out there i'm new to forum i have 87 s10 118 wheelbase frame i used code 504 frame kit . I diden't like how high it was so i cut there kit to make cab 3'" off frame. cut rad support the same.Now when i pre fit grill the grill brackets hit the frame the frame horns There are cut just in front of the steering box.And now the rad is 3"high above support I'm getting frustrated was going to sell s10 frame going with stock frame i have a lot in this frame can anyone help novaart

Post pictures. You have to cut the frame horns back pretty far.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by NovaArt

I diden't like how high it was so i cut there kit to make cab 3'" off frame.

put the cut back in the kit. the code 504 kit puts the running boards below the bottom of the framerails. the space between the cab floor and the top of the frame doesnt really mean anything about how low the truck will be, I have 2" drop spindles and 2" springs with 4" leaf springs on a self made kit that is as tall as the code 504 setup and the running boards are only 4.5 inches off the ground. I could bag it on stock control arms and a small notch and lay the running boards flat on 29" tall tires. the extra height of the body mounts doesnt mean anything to how low the truck will be, it just makes the problems that you have noted worse.

there is a local metal banger that throws these together by bolting the cab straight to the frame. he has to lean the radiator way out in front of the core support and his grilles are all cut up.

put the extra you cut out back in.

[NovaArt]

with the code 504 kit befor cutting kit the running boards were 9'' of ground hade 2' above front tire way to high by cutting cab mounts 3' bring running boards 5'' of ground

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by NovaArt

with the code 504 kit befor cutting kit the running boards were 9'' of ground hade 2' above front tire way to high by cutting cab mounts 3' bring running boards 5'' of ground

something is not adding up, and its not just your math (9" - 3" cut = 5"?) also, what tires are you running? if you have a 235/75/15 on it thats a 29.5" tall tire!

the code 504 kit is made to put the running boards about an inch below the frame. you said you changed out the front coils for lowering springs so that means you probably dont have Z85 springs (the high ride springs) in there any more. skymangs brackets with stock s10 bushings put the running boards in almost the same spot. also, the interference you are having with the radiator after cutting confirms that the code 504 kit is roughly the same height as skymangs lowered brackets.

a lot of guys see the cab on the frame and it LOOKS really tall, but its not actually. let me tell you from experience, skymangs lowered mounts with a 2" spring and 2" drop spindle puts the running boards about 3.5" off the ground, and that having the running boards 3.5" off the ground lets the front bumper scrub the crown in the road! this is all with plenty of clearance for a 19x22 rad. you are saying with 3" more out of the kit, and 5" of front drop you are still at 5", I say impossible. that would be almost flat on the ground.

do you have the motor in? trans? front clip on? running boards on? bed? because if you just have the cab on the frame its going to look a mile high.

[NovaArt]

that is with 2' drop spindles and 3' front drop springs

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by NovaArt

that is with 2' drop spindles and 3' front drop springs

toss the code 504 kit and follow my instructions, you'll be happy that you did.

once you cut the cab brackets nothing else will fit. everything is based off that cab to frame height. IMHO nothing looks right on a finished truck with one of those kits, the gaps are all wrong. if you read this thread from the beginning you'll see step by step instructions with diagrams and measurements. if you can cut down 504 brackets, you can do this!
besides you have to pick brains with!

[KRFitz]

Working on lowering my front end. I cut 1" of height off the S10 front coil springs to get 2" of drop. What is the most that can be cut off before things start getting strange? I'm hoping to avoid buying drop spindles and get all my lowering out of shortening the springs.

[NovaArt]

thanks skymangs started looking at your build on page 8 will continue tomorrow

[my80schild]

e brake decisions

Ok apologize in advance if this has been expressed already but I have these 34 pages a few times in the past year and can't recall or find the answer.

I don't have the OEM parts for the s10 or 3100 for my an e-brake. what is everyone using as far as e-brakes go. I'm looking for something clean that is on the drivers side kick panel. hopefully to line up the the original s10 e-brake cables into the cab. picture would really help if anyones got some.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by my80schild

e brake decisions

Ok apologize in advance if this has been expressed already but I have these 34 pages a few times in the past year and can't recall or find the answer.

I don't have the OEM parts for the s10 or 3100 for my an e-brake. what is everyone using as far as e-brakes go. I'm looking for something clean that is on the drivers side kick panel. hopefully to line up the the original s10 e-brake cables into the cab. picture would really help if anyones got some.

I just picked up the cable and mechanism from an 1994 Chevrolet c1500. It has a longer arm on the pedal and longer cable.

[my80schild]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

I just picked up the cable and mechanism from an 1994 Chevrolet c1500. It has a longer arm on the pedal and longer cable.

thanks 28TudorAZ for your response back.

does or can the c1500 e-brake mechanism hide up in the dash? I would love if there is enough room for the brake mechanism to hide up in the dash near the drivers kick panel and just have the pedal hanging down.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by my80schild

e brake decisions

Ok apologize in advance if this has been expressed already but I have these 34 pages a few times in the past year and can't recall or find the answer.

I don't have the OEM parts for the s10 or 3100 for my an e-brake. what is everyone using as far as e-brakes go. I'm looking for something clean that is on the drivers side kick panel. hopefully to line up the the original s10 e-brake cables into the cab. picture would really help if anyones got some.

try http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=541904 I used the s10 ebrake. But, if you’re using an automatic why even bother with an ebrake?

[Clay54]

I think in Texas it's a requirement to have an e-brake. No e-brake, no inspection sticker. Clay

[skymangs]

I 100% agree with joedoh. the math is just not adding up (math is hard). I can tell you that my version 2 brackets with stock springs, 2" drop spindles, and 2"' blocks in the rear will net you the forward edge of the boards 5" off the ground. do not doubt me on this! I've built hundreds! and stay away from dropped springs and cut coils. with dropped spindles you still get full suspension travel. dropped springs and cut coils ride like $hit anyway!

[joedoh]

the mounts give the height in their dimensions, just add the inch of the body mount to it. so if you use his version 2 brackets for example, the front mount is 3 1/4 tall off the frame plus the inch for the bushing, so 4 1/4. in the back its 4" tall, plus the inch is 5". the height difference is because the front has an underfloor brace that the body bushing will mount to, but the rear does not (on shackle mount cabs you have to trim the floor support to get the body bushing to mount flat

so the flat of the AD floor should be 5" off the flat part of the frame, the front section of the frame takes a ~1/2" dip

[ghettoluxury]

I’ve read all of this thread and Skymags builds along with a lot of other S10 swap builds. My question is with the version 2 mounts does the cab floor remain flat? Also does the bed floor remain at the same height and retain the factory cross sills? Everything I have read makes me believe that the bed floor will raise 1/2 inch.

[joedoh]

the version 2 are the taller mounts, right? thats what is labeled version 2.

with the short mounts, if I had an extra inch in height between the cab and frame I wouldnt need much of a trans bump. if I did it would only be because of the bellhousing, and only from how far I move the motor back, which is more than some guys do


for the floor of the bed it all depends on how you are mounting the floor. if you use the stock bed crossmembers and bed wood, I think the taller mounts would let you keep the floor intact. you might have to modify the bed crossmembers around the gas tank/axle. as it stands, I use the shorter version of skymangs mounts and the stock s10 bed floor, and it moves up about an inch.