Rat repair.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Good job, looks great I'd be happy with that!

Thank you!

[swamp rat]

Ok, if anyone can give a few tips on what they use to sand in contoured areas i'm listening, I'm getting tired of pulling the skin from the bottom of my fingernail and walking around with a sore finger tip. LOL!

flexible pad of some kind? I have block sanders but they don't help with the tight curves.

[rgunlock]

Please don't assume that this is the best answer you are going to get, but I've used a kitchen sponge, you know the kind that are about 4" x 2" x 3/4". I wrapped my sandpaper around that and went after some of the contoured areas. It got in there, certainly better than a block, but not sure how evenly it was taking off material.

[swamp rat]

Drivers door removed, hinges are rebushed and reasembled but not back on the truck yet, the new bronze bushings were a little looser fit on the pins than i had hoped, don't know the source of the pin kit but bought them from Franks in Olympia about 3-4 years ago. Pic's to flow.

My question now would be should i go ahead with door rust repair before remounting? The lower inner door bottom is not rusted thru, just the lower skin is bad.

[DWilbur]

cut out the rot then hang the door and fit the new panel in place then you can check the fit to the cab.

[swamp rat]

I was in a hurry when i posted. I mean't to ask if i should go ahead with the lower door skin first and then remount the door and align, then start the rocker work. Or would there be a reason to hold off on the door skin? I hope this clarifys my last question.

[swamp rat]

Test. Upload pic's from my phone.

Phone upload worked! now of course i know i still need to wire brish and treat the inner ect, when i cut off the lower skin. Not too bad of shape huh?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

cut out the rot then hang the door and fit the new panel in place then you can check the fit to the cab.

Not too sure if you are meaning fitting door panel or fitting rocker panel, i know i need to hang the door and get the gaps correct before doing the rockers.

FWIW: i hope things turn around for ya soon! Good to see ya back.

[swamp rat]

Hinges..

[tcoop68]

Here is a 68 four wheel drive I done quit a few years ago it ended up in Arkansas I have got to do another 4x4 soon.

[tcoop68]

If you replace the bottom section of the door tack it and hang back on the truck and make sure your body lines are good before welding it completely good luck on your project .

[DWilbur]

I got some hinges from some an 72 doors that are nice and tight. I would think replacing the hinge pins would result the same tight feel. just my thoughts.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Test. Upload pic's from my phone.

Phone upload worked! now of course i know i still need to wire brish and treat the inner ect, when i cut off the lower skin. Not too bad of shape huh?

Very nice looking door from where I'm sitting. good luck with the lower skin. Those can be a pain.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice looking door from where I'm sitting. good luck with the lower skin. Those can be a pain.

If you know of any threads where someone else did the same repair send the link.. with my luck it will turn into a cluster.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I got some hinges from some an 72 doors that are nice and tight. I would think replacing the hinge pins would result the same tight feel. just my thoughts.

\

Were they new? do you remember where you got them?

[swamp rat]

I played with a new toy today, started with a DA sander but was getting nowhere in a hurry so i pulled out my Eastwood portable blaster with the accessory recovery bag. The unit worked pretty well but the trigger was sticking at first. the recovery system works pretty well too, naturally you have to fill and empty a lot. Instructions say not to exceed 125 lb psi, i ran it at 100.

So naturally there is more surface rust lurking under the paint than you might expect, a couple spots surprised me as they were not visable untill the first pass of the blaster. I know blasting can promote warpage so i kept the thing moving so not to generate any heat, altho i still know peening a surface will make it grow too.

I kato marked the two highest concerns, i figure that material will need to be cut out..

Still not sure of the best place to cut the skin? someone told me once but now i cant recall who or where, i think it was suggested about 1" ether above or below the body line.. Any recommendations? The panels i have extend about 4-6 inches above the body line.

[DWilbur]

If you can get away with an 1' or 2 bleow the panel line is good it depends on the rot and what you have to cut out you might have to cut above.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

If you know of any threads where someone else did the same repair send the link.. with my luck it will turn into a cluster.

You can look at my thread for CRLS around post #30, 82-92 and 169. May be more, but I didn't go thru it all. I replaced the door bottoms on both sides and agree it's best to tack them in and test fit the doors before welding them out. Judging from your other efforts, you have the skills. Go for it!

[DWilbur]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

\

Were they new? do you remember where you got them?

Not new I got them with the 1969 suburban I bought. they gave the all 3 doors as they where complete with glass and trim. the door on the 69 where gutted.

[swamp rat]

I did some more sanding on the driver door today, it looks to me like i can go with about 3-4 inches off the bottom of the skin, all the metal seems pretty solid above that, the two spots that are circled are still pretty solid, I'll look at them again later to see if i should do a couple small spot repairs.

I noted a couple things today, first is that inside my doors is some type of vibration or sound deadening (?) material definitely sprayed in, not sure if all the doors have this from factory? not sure yet if it will be a pain to remove where i weld.

Next thing i noticed is that if i put a straight edge on the lower body line on both doors the door skin is Not flat from front to back like i was expecting, the center sticks out a little, do all the doors have a contour from front to back? or is it just my luck i have a couple if warped stock panels? I didn't spot blast the passenger side door like i did on the driver door so i know that didn't affect it.

I intended on not having to cut the inner door bottom off, but after my experience with the gas fill door i learned the need to planish my spot welds, not sure i'm going to be able to reach in the inner access hole and hit the spot welds with a hammer at the same time.

[swamp rat]

Looking at the door i decided to keep the cut low for now, i watched a video, link below, pretty informative but i didn't cut the repair panel yet, i did measure from the bottom of the skin up 8" and marked the door for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YurQpXIdWM4

I made my cut and it became apparent that there is built in stress in the door skin, it started to pull inward on the upper part as i was cutting thru. Also the cut is just below the lowest point of the spray in vibration or sound deadening material.

In the pic's its obvious that under the fold of the skin above the cut is surface rust, I'm debating if OSPHO (Phospheric acid) will creep into the fold after i clean the door out, thought i could stand the door on edge and brush it into the creases and let gravity hopefully allow it to creep in.

Any other treatments i should consider? I'm a little concerned about welding and fumes. I have a can of this stuff too.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-27490.html

[swamp rat]

A pic of the door with the piece cut out and laying on top..

[rgunlock]

Good to see you are back into the truck project big-time! Looks like you have some patching to do on the inner door as well, but from the pictures it looks like flat areas. That rust encapsulator does a pretty good job, and it is runny, but I dunno about it seeping into the seam. Wasn't there some seam sealer under that fold (not saying there should have been - I just don't know).

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

... I'm debating if OSPHO (Phospheric acid) will creep into the fold after i clean the door out, thought i could stand the door on edge and brush it into the creases and let gravity hopefully allow it to creep in.

Any other treatments i should consider? I'm a little concerned about welding and fumes.

I recommend a product called Gem Rust Killer. It's phosphoric acid with some wetting agents and extenders added. I use a spray bottle to apply it until the surface is wet. It converts the rust to iron phosphate and turns it black. If you don't plan to paint the surface, just let it dry. If you plan to paint over it, you can rinse the area with water after all the rust has converted (turned black) and pat it dry with a towel. Then let it air dry completely before painting. It's the same consistency as water, so it easily seeps into the seams. You may need to spritz heavily rusted areas several times and let them soak. If you want to give it a try, you can look it up on the Google. The folks that make it are in Houston, TX and sell direct. Just give them a call.

As far as the welding is concerned, fumes are always a problem. A respirator is the best way to keep out the bad stuff. They can be a pain, but most helmets have enough room to accommodate one. I never weld galvanized without wearing one. Your lungs will appreciate the love later in life.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Good to see you are back into the truck project big-time! Looks like you have some patching to do on the inner door as well, but from the pictures it looks like flat areas. That rust encapsulator does a pretty good job, and it is runny, but I dunno about it seeping into the seam. Wasn't there some seam sealer under that fold (not saying there should have been - I just don't know).

Big time feels like lets get nervous time LOL! Yea the inner is fine except the lower flange, nice and solid. I don't think there is seam sealer in the fold over seam on the door, least i didn't see any.