Rat repair.

[swamp rat]

I was in a hurry when i posted. I mean't to ask if i should go ahead with the lower door skin first and then remount the door and align, then start the rocker work. Or would there be a reason to hold off on the door skin? I hope this clarifys my last question.

[swamp rat]

Test. Upload pic's from my phone.

Phone upload worked! now of course i know i still need to wire brish and treat the inner ect, when i cut off the lower skin. Not too bad of shape huh?

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Test. Upload pic's from my phone.

Phone upload worked! now of course i know i still need to wire brish and treat the inner ect, when i cut off the lower skin. Not too bad of shape huh?

Very nice looking door from where I'm sitting. good luck with the lower skin. Those can be a pain.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice looking door from where I'm sitting. good luck with the lower skin. Those can be a pain.

If you know of any threads where someone else did the same repair send the link.. with my luck it will turn into a cluster.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

If you know of any threads where someone else did the same repair send the link.. with my luck it will turn into a cluster.

You can look at my thread for CRLS around post #30, 82-92 and 169. May be more, but I didn't go thru it all. I replaced the door bottoms on both sides and agree it's best to tack them in and test fit the doors before welding them out. Judging from your other efforts, you have the skills. Go for it!

[swamp rat]

Hinges..

[DWilbur]

I got some hinges from some an 72 doors that are nice and tight. I would think replacing the hinge pins would result the same tight feel. just my thoughts.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I got some hinges from some an 72 doors that are nice and tight. I would think replacing the hinge pins would result the same tight feel. just my thoughts.

\

Were they new? do you remember where you got them?

[DWilbur]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

\

Were they new? do you remember where you got them?

Not new I got them with the 1969 suburban I bought. they gave the all 3 doors as they where complete with glass and trim. the door on the 69 where gutted.

[swamp rat]

I played with a new toy today, started with a DA sander but was getting nowhere in a hurry so i pulled out my Eastwood portable blaster with the accessory recovery bag. The unit worked pretty well but the trigger was sticking at first. the recovery system works pretty well too, naturally you have to fill and empty a lot. Instructions say not to exceed 125 lb psi, i ran it at 100.

So naturally there is more surface rust lurking under the paint than you might expect, a couple spots surprised me as they were not visable untill the first pass of the blaster. I know blasting can promote warpage so i kept the thing moving so not to generate any heat, altho i still know peening a surface will make it grow too.

I kato marked the two highest concerns, i figure that material will need to be cut out..

Still not sure of the best place to cut the skin? someone told me once but now i cant recall who or where, i think it was suggested about 1" ether above or below the body line.. Any recommendations? The panels i have extend about 4-6 inches above the body line.

[DWilbur]

If you can get away with an 1' or 2 bleow the panel line is good it depends on the rot and what you have to cut out you might have to cut above.

[swamp rat]

I did some more sanding on the driver door today, it looks to me like i can go with about 3-4 inches off the bottom of the skin, all the metal seems pretty solid above that, the two spots that are circled are still pretty solid, I'll look at them again later to see if i should do a couple small spot repairs.

I noted a couple things today, first is that inside my doors is some type of vibration or sound deadening (?) material definitely sprayed in, not sure if all the doors have this from factory? not sure yet if it will be a pain to remove where i weld.

Next thing i noticed is that if i put a straight edge on the lower body line on both doors the door skin is Not flat from front to back like i was expecting, the center sticks out a little, do all the doors have a contour from front to back? or is it just my luck i have a couple if warped stock panels? I didn't spot blast the passenger side door like i did on the driver door so i know that didn't affect it.

I intended on not having to cut the inner door bottom off, but after my experience with the gas fill door i learned the need to planish my spot welds, not sure i'm going to be able to reach in the inner access hole and hit the spot welds with a hammer at the same time.

[swamp rat]

Looking at the door i decided to keep the cut low for now, i watched a video, link below, pretty informative but i didn't cut the repair panel yet, i did measure from the bottom of the skin up 8" and marked the door for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YurQpXIdWM4

I made my cut and it became apparent that there is built in stress in the door skin, it started to pull inward on the upper part as i was cutting thru. Also the cut is just below the lowest point of the spray in vibration or sound deadening material.

In the pic's its obvious that under the fold of the skin above the cut is surface rust, I'm debating if OSPHO (Phospheric acid) will creep into the fold after i clean the door out, thought i could stand the door on edge and brush it into the creases and let gravity hopefully allow it to creep in.

Any other treatments i should consider? I'm a little concerned about welding and fumes. I have a can of this stuff too.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-27490.html

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

... I'm debating if OSPHO (Phospheric acid) will creep into the fold after i clean the door out, thought i could stand the door on edge and brush it into the creases and let gravity hopefully allow it to creep in.

Any other treatments i should consider? I'm a little concerned about welding and fumes.

I recommend a product called Gem Rust Killer. It's phosphoric acid with some wetting agents and extenders added. I use a spray bottle to apply it until the surface is wet. It converts the rust to iron phosphate and turns it black. If you don't plan to paint the surface, just let it dry. If you plan to paint over it, you can rinse the area with water after all the rust has converted (turned black) and pat it dry with a towel. Then let it air dry completely before painting. It's the same consistency as water, so it easily seeps into the seams. You may need to spritz heavily rusted areas several times and let them soak. If you want to give it a try, you can look it up on the Google. The folks that make it are in Houston, TX and sell direct. Just give them a call.

As far as the welding is concerned, fumes are always a problem. A respirator is the best way to keep out the bad stuff. They can be a pain, but most helmets have enough room to accommodate one. I never weld galvanized without wearing one. Your lungs will appreciate the love later in life.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I recommend a product called Gem Rust Killer. It's phosphoric acid with some wetting agents and extenders added. I use a spray bottle to apply it until the surface is wet. It converts the rust to iron phosphate and turns it black. If you don't plan to paint the surface, just let it dry. If you plan to paint over it, you can rinse the area with water after all the rust has converted (turned black) and pat it dry with a towel. Then let it air dry completely before painting. It's the same consistency as water, so it easily seeps into the seams. You may need to spritz heavily rusted areas several times and let them soak. If you want to give it a try, you can look it up on the Google. The folks that make it are in Houston, TX and sell direct. Just give them a call.

As far as the welding is concerned, fumes are always a problem. A respirator is the best way to keep out the bad stuff. They can be a pain, but most helmets have enough room to accommodate one. I never weld galvanized without wearing one. Your lungs will appreciate the love later in life.

Hey Vic thanks for the tip! i just got off the phone with Bill the owner and it sounds like he has done his research on a great product, a little pricy with shipping in a special container but it will go a long ways, he does business the old fashioned way, that just does not happen in today's world.

Below is a link to the respirator filters i have, good for acid vapors ect, not sure what kind of gas vapors welding creates or what might be created if i weld over any chemicals like Phosphoric acid ect. Do you think i should be good?

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...294936907&rt=d

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Below is a link to the respirator filters i have, good for acid vapors ect, not sure what kind of gas vapors welding creates or what might be created if i weld over any chemicals like Phosphoric acid ect. Do you think i should be good?

This filter would work just fine for you. Phosphoric acid reacts with iron oxide to form iron phosphate which is essentially inert. I don't think there would be much of an elevated danger when welding thru it. That said, your respirator is approved for chemical processing and exposure to several noxious substances so it's a good safety measure to use it when working around vapor irritants.

Your patch is going to be tricky but if you go slow and keep the heat down, it's do-able. If it turns into a goat rodeo, you can always skin it like DWilbur suggested. Keep up the good work!

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

If it turns into a goat rodeo

If you have any question, wear the respirator. Welding heat will vaporize alot of things, some don't really bother. The arc can have an odd effect on stuff and the uv can spice stuff up too. Best to be safe. I do a lot of breath holding when I weld.

Good luck with the repair!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

This filter would work just fine for you. Phosphoric acid reacts with iron oxide to form iron phosphate which is essentially inert. I don't think there would be much of an elevated danger when welding thru it. That said, your respirator is approved for chemical processing and exposure to several noxious substances so it's a good safety measure to use it when working around vapor irritants.

Your patch is going to be tricky but if you go slow and keep the heat down, it's do-able. If it turns into a goat rodeo, you can always skin it like DWilbur suggested. Keep up the good work!

Thanks Vic! when i bought this one i was concerned about Muratic Acid vapors, this one coverd that, don't know if any of you guys recall my accidental breathing in of these vapors but they are nasty!

And that Goat Rodeo had been my biggest fear on these doors, If there is a better way to cut the skin i'm all ears, but at least the weld being higher up i can reach in with a dolly and do some planishing.

[swamp rat]

A pic of the door with the piece cut out and laying on top..

[rgunlock]

Good to see you are back into the truck project big-time! Looks like you have some patching to do on the inner door as well, but from the pictures it looks like flat areas. That rust encapsulator does a pretty good job, and it is runny, but I dunno about it seeping into the seam. Wasn't there some seam sealer under that fold (not saying there should have been - I just don't know).

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Good to see you are back into the truck project big-time! Looks like you have some patching to do on the inner door as well, but from the pictures it looks like flat areas. That rust encapsulator does a pretty good job, and it is runny, but I dunno about it seeping into the seam. Wasn't there some seam sealer under that fold (not saying there should have been - I just don't know).

Big time feels like lets get nervous time LOL! Yea the inner is fine except the lower flange, nice and solid. I don't think there is seam sealer in the fold over seam on the door, least i didn't see any.

[DWilbur]

Get the media blaster out and kill that rust and cut out the rot. Sky had to do both right side doors on my truck inner and outer about 10" up.

[rgunlock]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Big time feels like lets get nervous time LOL! Yea the inner is fine except the lower flange, nice and solid. I don't think there is seam sealer in the fold over seam on the door, least i didn't see any.

Nah! Not time to get nervous. For me, I just figure if I screw it up, cut the door a little higher than last time and start over with a new patch - first try turned out to be practice. I brought up the seam sealer because I'm pretty sure my 78 had it there, which if yours did would likely keep rust converter from getting in there very well.

[DWilbur]

The only place I saw seam sealer was the fire wall, door jambs. nothing in the doors

[swamp rat]

First thing i did was scribe my 8" measurement across the door so i didn't loose it, it was just marked with a sharpie.

Keeping with that video's recommendation of cutting a slight angle I measured down 1" and 1 1/4" below my 8" mark and cut about 3 more inches off the skin, the skin still had some rust on the back side, but the remaining skin has no more rust per flashlight and mirror inspection.

However there is still a bit of rust in the seam area. what do ya think, go ahead and go above the body line? I will still coat the inside with the stuff Vic recommended.

I gotta concentrate on not cutting past the skin depth a little better LOL!