Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by mikeleeshields

Great work Vic. That much work looks like it is worth the $900 for new bedsides everytime I see someone shorten a longbed. You are doing a great job.

I agree reproduction bedsides definately wouldn't be the worst way to spend money considering you would be able to bolt and go, sectioning the floor is where the real savings is because the reproduction floors are super expensive.
This unfortuantely doesn't apply to Vic because he went from a stepside to a fleetside and had to buy the bed to start with, but for those who start with a truck that was a longbed it is certainly true.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mikeleeshields

Great work Vic. That much work looks like it is worth the $900 for new bedsides everytime I see someone shorten a longbed. You are doing a great job.

Originally Posted by Xeen

I agree reproduction bedsides definately wouldn't be the worst way to spend money considering you would be able to bolt and go, sectioning the floor is where the real savings is because the reproduction floors are super expensive.
This unfortuantely doesn't apply to Vic because he went from a stepside to a fleetside and had to buy the bed to start with, but for those who start with a truck that was a longbed it is certainly true.

You know, that thought's been hanging around in the background since the start of this project. But as Mom used to say, "In for penny, in for a pound." I'm committed to seeing if this can be done in an acceptable way. I once worked for a guy that said anyone can smother a fire with money. I might go along with that, unless it's me that's on fire! In that case, I'll spend the $$$.

[mikeleeshields]

Very good point Vic.

[Vic1947]

Brian G. came over yesterday and while he was here I enlisted his help to flip over the floor so I could weld the underside seam. Weld penetration was good for about 60% of the seam, but the remaining 40% needed the reinforcement. With all the welding done, I can lay the bed floor flat on the concrete and knock down the little dents.

Removed and filled in the stake pockets on the driver bedside, then sectioned it. Bunch of pieces on the floor now! Doubt it will go back together as quickly as it came apart. There's a fair amount of hammer and dolly work and holes to weld before I can fixture anything up. Now is the time to do it, though, because access to the backs of the panels won't get any easier once reassembly starts. I've also been cleaning the edges where the various pieces will bolt to the floor. The old seam sealer and caked on filth and rust might interfere with the fit when I start mocking it all up. Or then again, maybe I'm being too anal. Only takes a small amount of effort, so better safe than sorry, I guess.

[69CST-V]

Nice work as always Vic. Coming together!!

[swamp rat]

Looking great! I know to save my bed i'm gonna have to take it apart too, for a first timer (that being me) would you rate it pretty easy? Just the one weld in the back per side and start unbolting everything (including any ground straps and unhook the lights of course) Thanks!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Looking great! I know to save my bed i'm gonna have to take it apart too, for a first timer (that being me) would you rate it pretty easy? Just the one weld in the back per side and start unbolting everything (including any ground straps and unhook the lights of course) Thanks!

Yes, it's not all that difficult. As you mentioned, grind the welds at the back of the bedsides, then unbolt the rest. Not all of the stovebolts came out willingly. There were at least three that spun and I was unable to grab with vise-grips. So for those, I tack welded the head in a couple of spots that would be easy to grind once the nut was off. The bedsides are heavy, so you might want to have a helper when ready to take them off.

[Low Elco]

The Zip wheel is your friend, at least in my case.

[Vic1947]

Not much exciting stuff going on. Been welding up holes and doing hammer and dolly work on the pieces of the bed. For some reason, I decided now would be a good time to patch the side marker light opening. Cut out the material I needed and welded it in. When I released the clamps, it went crazy. I had the same problem on my previous truck and blamed the TiG. Used a MiG this time and same result. Tried working out the low spot with the slapper, but it was having none of it. So I cut out the patch along with the frame. The panel immediately returned to the correct shape. I made a second patch and rolled an offset around all four edges then spot welded it in place. No distortion, so I'm leaving it like it is until I get the sections welded back together. It should be rigid enough at that point to finish it out.

[Vic1947]

Today, I dollied out as many dents as I could get to on the bed floor then flipped it over to begin fixturing the sections. I'd bought a new front panel this past fall and when I pulled it out of the box, it was seriously twisted. So I made a panic trip to Classic Parts and exchanged it for one that was only bowed along the bottom lip. Brian G. is coming over tomorrow to help me use the shrinker to straighten it out. Hate working on brand new parts, but the counterman was real upfront and said it wouldn't be likely to find a perfect one.

The initial fit on the driver side looks pretty good, even without using any butt clamps. Need to trim a little in a few places to get a closer fit, but it should be no problem. You can see the offset between the body lines in the last photo. Not as bad as I'd envisioned, but it will still be an interesting exercise to make it 'flow" seamlessly.

[jlsanborn]

Looks great so far! That flat bar or angle you've got clamped under the bed rail is a great idea too. The mis-match at the roll is about the same as I had. Anxious to see how you tackle that.

[jeh]

I'll give it to ya Vic, I couldn't imagine attempting what you're doing, and you make it look like a piece of cake.

[sduckworth13]

Nice work Vic. Good luck on the bedsides, looks pretty challenging.

[Low Elco]

I ran into the same issue ish on the s-box. If you have a smidgen of prior damage/deflection, it will go BUCK CRAZY when you weld/heat anywhere near it. It was a challenge to get it back halfway close! Can't wait for the next installment. Sure enjoy your work.

I'd also say, while we're talking about beds, I don't know where you're at on a tailgate, but get and redo/repair an OEM one. The repro's fit pretty good and look pretty good, but have the consistency and constitution of a beer can. We've dented Yeller's three times since it's been finished. We're looking to replace it long term.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I ran into the same issue ish on the s-box. If you have a smidgen of prior damage/deflection, it will go BUCK CRAZY when you weld/heat anywhere near it. It was a challenge to get it back halfway close! Can't wait for the next installment. Sure enjoy your work.

I'd also say, while we're talking about beds, I don't know where you're at on a tailgate, but get and redo/repair an OEM one. The repro's fit pretty good and look pretty good, but have the consistency and constitution of a beer can. We've dented Yeller's three times since it's been finished. We're looking to replace it long term.

Thanks, Chip. WRT the tailgate, I've already put the swap meet on the original one. About the only thing worth saving on it was the Chevrolet stamping in the center. I haven't pulled the repro out of the box to inspect it, but if it's like the front panel, it's the Taiwanese version of 16 ga. (equivalent to a Falstaff beer can).

Speaking of the front panel, Brian G. came over this morning and together we straightened out the bow in the bottom lip and attached it up to the floor. Fits perfectly now. We then mocked up the front section of the bed using the panel and holes in the floor as our guide. It's going to work out great.

While he was here, we discussed the problems with the passenger side sheet metal and how it might be better to at least buy repro for that side. I got to thinking I'd already invested $140 in what appeared to be a thin, marginally usable patch panel. For another $335, I could have the whole dang thing and not have to fill the side marker hole and do all the other repairs. Looked at the clock and said, to heck with it ...I'm goin' for it. Made it to Classic with time to spare and exchanged the patch panel and the $$ for a complete bedside.

However, the euphoria was short lived. After getting home with it, I bolted on the wheel well and noticed right away that the holes in the bottom ledge of the panel didn't match up to my OEM piece. Went ahead and positioned it on the floor and the depth of the problem was immediately evident. In order for the wheel well to fit, I'll have to do major surgery to relocate the captive nuts where the wheel well attaches. Two steps forward...

[Low Elco]

Hrmrmrm... Mine on both sides popped right together with no problems. Both of mine came from Ron Manes in Odessa, Mo. You may wanna give him a call and see which brand you got. I don't have the box, or I'd look for you. Anyway, I think there's 2 or 3 brands, you might give it a check on. Sorry it didn't drop right on for ya.

[sduckworth13]

lol. thats awesome Vic that'll make the conversion a lot easier.

[sduckworth13]

That new bedside looks like it has its own set of problems, which is scary because I have two repro bedsides. I wonder if the fitment is just on factory floors.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

That new bedside looks like it has its own set of problems, which is scary because I have two repro bedsides. I wonder if the fitment is just on factory floors.

Don't think so. Chip had no problem with his repop bedsides mating to a factory floor. As he stated, (and I can confirm) there IS a difference between aftermarket manufacturers. I think I got a bedside that might work better with the same vendor's wheel well. Below are some close-ups of the mismatch between the OEM bolt holes in the wheel wells and the corresponding holes in the repro bedside. Where the inside of the wheel well attaches to the bedside, all the holes line up fine. It's just that when you put the bedside on the floor, the bolt holes on the perimeter of the wheel well are out of position. However the remaining bolt holes where the inner lip of the bedside rests on the floor are okay. So the issue is probably with the construction of the bedside inner panel by this particular vendor.

Not sure if your version of Porterbuilt suspension will force you to raise the bed floor or not. If not, and you want to compare the fit of your bedside, when the weather clears and you have some free time, haul the right side over here and we'll test fit it. That would tell us both something.

[sduckworth13]

I will definitely do that Vic. I bought these last year and I think the guy I bought them from had them for several years prior to selling them. Hope these are from the good batch.

[mikeleeshields]

Still a lot of welding and grinding ahead good luck buddy.

[Xeen]

I'm wondering if the issue isn't the bedside but where the floor was cut in both the front and the back, perhaps the preportions are incorrect and it is throwing everything off, for example if it's an inch too long in the front and an inch to short in the back then the wheel wells wouldnt line up, I'm just spitballing here.
The only way you can know for sure is to measure someone elses shortbed or try a known good bedside on your floor.

[swamp rat]

I think I'd return the bedside and consider trying another from a different supplier.

I thought i was the only guy that took 2 steps forward and 4 steps back..... Keep at it!

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I'm wondering if the issue isn't the bedside but where the floor was cut in both the front and the back, perhaps the preportions are incorrect and it is throwing everything off, for example if it's an inch too long in the front and an inch to short in the back then the wheel wells wouldnt line up, I'm just spitballing here.
The only way you can know for sure is to measure someone elses shortbed or try a known good bedside on your floor.

Actually, the problem is evident just by bolting the wheel well to the repro bedside without even setting it on the floor. Which makes me think the issue is with the bedside inner panel. The comparison you suggest is a good idea, though. I talked with Scott last night and he's going to haul his bedside over here and do a side by side. Will let you know how it goes.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I think I'd return the bedside and consider trying another from a different supplier.

I thought i was the only guy that took 2 steps forward and 4 steps back..... Keep at it!

Nope, I'm right there with you when it comes to lurching thru a build. As for returning it, that's a crapshoot based on past experience. The dies they use to stamp these parts and the fixtures used to assemble them are, in many cases, slap wore out. If you luck into a part that fits really well, you should count your blessings. It's 3 degrees and snowing outside, the hot water line to one of the sinks in the bathroom is frozen, but the workshop is warm and welcoming so I think I'll just dig in and fix it.

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I'm determined to use it as a daily driver and not over restore it like my other truck. My goal is to address the safety and reliability issues as well as the sheetmetal shortcomings. I doubt it will get anything other than a good coat of epoxy primer and I currently have no plans to convert it to discs or 5 lugs.

Guess that went out the window huh?



Ahh, man it's been a long time since I have been on here, and I am never disappointed with your build Vic. The amount of attention to detail in your builds is nothing short of spectacular.

From what I can decipher, it looks as though you are going to a fleetside bed on this one?