Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[88Stanger]

Ok so actually uncovered the beast last weekend. Finally starting to get back it. Found a big problem that I knew existed, I just did not want to spend time or $$ on it. Well that has come and I had to spend time and $$ on it to do the truck right. I am talking about the lighting in the shop. I have fluorescents in now and they really suck!!! Kind of a crappy color and light output. Trying to do paint prep sucks let alone paint, SO I got 40 (2 packs of 20) LED 4ft shop lights. They are 5000k and 2400L. Working for a local power company with a very close friend who runs the lighting dept. helps in picking color and power. They are what are called "A & B" Type, so they are direct drop in. Not cheap but will be alot better than what I currently have.
So that will help with paint and body work in the shop, let alone the cost for power.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok so actually uncovered the beast last weekend. Finally starting to get back it. Found a big problem that I knew existed, I just did not want to spend time or $$ on it. Well that has come and I had to spend time and $$ on it to do the truck right. I am talking about the lighting in the shop. I have fluorescents in now and they really suck!!! Kind of a crappy color and light output. Trying to do paint prep sucks let alone paint, SO I got 40 (2 packs of 20) LED 4ft shop lights. They are 5000k and 2400L. Working for a local power company with a very close friend who runs the lighting dept. helps in picking color and power. They are what are called "A & B" Type, so they are direct drop in. Not cheap but will be alot better than what I currently have.
So that will help with paint and body work in the shop, let alone the cost for power.

Can you elaborate on this info?

[SkinnyG]

My shop is 1000sqft, and I have 18 twin-tube "daylight" flourescents rated at 5800L each unit. In theory, 105,000 Lumens of light.

It was awesome seven years ago, but either they need a good cleaning, or my eyes are getting old, or probably both. When I'm done with my spray booth, I'm likely going to add those lights into the shop system.

You never can have enough light.

[88Stanger]

Scoti , SkinnyG

So what I have is a pole building that is 24'x36'x14' eve. I have a total of 16 4' fluorescent lights now, so three rows of two groups - 2 next to each other long ways and separated by approx. 10ft. Currently i have some lights that are sunlight (5k is color) but lower wattage and some in a more yellow looking light (lower k in color, around 4k) and again lower wattage. Because of the wattage they are not very "powerful" lights or "bright" in color. They are more "calming" in color and power. I want sunlight bright and more power. As you mentioned SkinnyG, as I age ever so gracefully, my sight is a bit "off" or not as sharp. LOL

So with that all said, I work at the local Electrical Utility in the engineering design group as the lead designer. My very close friend Kevin is our in house lighting expert and he has been in my shop many times and understands my concerns with the lighting. So in an office at work we have a very special lighting setup that we can manipulate the light source, color range (2k to 7k) and the power (lumens). What is interesting with lights is the wattage does not nec. mean how "Powerful" the light is. On LED's the Lumens is the "Powerful" part. Now wattage has something to do with this, but does not mean that a 1500L * 20w light is brighter than a 2400L * 18W. The 2400L is much brighter. With that said, we set up the room with 6k color and 5k color. The 6k color looked like someone had a light blue tent to everything and I really did not like it, reds became sorta dark. So then we went with the 5k and oh yes that was it, sunlight as it is called.

So now onto the types of LED shop lights. There are basically 3 or 4 types. There are the ones that require you to bypass the ballast = rewire each light. Then there are the ones that require a specific one sided tombstones (they are the little ends that the light tubes twist into). These are light tubes that require only one tombstone to be powered. Then there are the ones that are direct replacement = just remove old Flour and install the new LED's. These are the easiest but also the more expensive and if you ballast goes out, well the light goes out. Then there are the ones I got, they are type A & B = they Direct replacement but also will stay on when not if your ballast goes out. These are typically the most expensive but to me are the best bang for the buck.
NOTE: You can get Clear or Frosted - GET THE FROSTED!! The clear are overbright to look at and are not as efficient in dispersing the light. I was amazed how this was so true.

So what I got are 5k (sunglight in color) and really "powerful" at 2400L. now this is each bulb, and I have two per fixture. here are the lights i got. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08223JB88...roduct_details

At 99.00 per 20, that is not bad price. LED's are alot less costly electrically speaking and will save you money each month, a good amount really.
You also will not have the cold winter sloooooow turn on and color up. LOL
So I got 2 packs of these and they should outlast me.... but my goal is to make this as difficult as possible. LOL

That help SCOTI? I am happy to help anyway I can, Lord knows I owe many of you on here so much.... so whatever I can to do to help any of you.

[88Stanger]

SkinnyG
Hope all is well with you and family on the Covid front!
I am loving the paint booth!! This is next on my list for shop after these lights. Actually it is the crap for light for the painting is my main initial driver to get the new lighting.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Scoti , SkinnyG

So what I have is a pole building that is 24'x36'x14' eve. I have a total of 16 4' fluorescent lights now, so three rows of two groups - 2 next to each other long ways and separated by approx. 10ft. Currently i have some lights that are sunlight (5k is color) but lower wattage and some in a more yellow looking light (lower k in color, around 4k) and again lower wattage. Because of the wattage they are not very "powerful" lights or "bright" in color. They are more "calming" in color and power. I want sunlight bright and more power. As you mentioned SkinnyG, as I age ever so gracefully, my sight is a bit "off" or not as sharp. LOL

So with that all said, I work at the local Electrical Utility in the engineering design group as the lead designer. My very close friend Kevin is our in house lighting expert and he has been in my shop many times and understands my concerns with the lighting. So in an office at work we have a very special lighting setup that we can manipulate the light source, color range (2k to 7k) and the power (lumens). What is interesting with lights is the wattage does not nec. mean how "Powerful" the light is. On LED's the Lumens is the "Powerful" part. Now wattage has something to do with this, but does not mean that a 1500L * 20w light is brighter than a 2400L * 18W. The 2400L is much brighter. With that said, we set up the room with 6k color and 5k color. The 6k color looked like someone had a light blue tent to everything and I really did not like it, reds became sorta dark. So then we went with the 5k and oh yes that was it, sunlight as it is called.

So now onto the types of LED shop lights. There are basically 3 or 4 types. There are the ones that require you to bypass the ballast = rewire each light. Then there are the ones that require a specific one sided tombstones (they are the little ends that the light tubes twist into). These are light tubes that require only one tombstone to be powered. Then there are the ones that are direct replacement = just remove old Flour and install the new LED's. These are the easiest but also the more expensive and if you ballast goes out, well the light goes out. Then there are the ones I got, they are type A & B = they Direct replacement but also will stay on when not if your ballast goes out. These are typically the most expensive but to me are the best bang for the buck.
NOTE: You can get Clear or Frosted - GET THE FROSTED!! The clear are overbright to look at and are not as efficient in dispersing the light. I was amazed how this was so true.

So what I got are 5k (sunglight in color) and really "powerful" at 2400L. now this is each bulb, and I have two per fixture. here are the lights i got. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08223JB88...roduct_details

At 99.00 per 20, that is not bad price. LED's are alot less costly electrically speaking and will save you money each month, a good amount really.
You also will not have the cold winter sloooooow turn on and color up. LOL
So I got 2 packs of these and they should outlast me.... but my goal is to make this as difficult as possible. LOL

That help SCOTI? I am happy to help anyway I can, Lord knows I owe many of you on here so much.... so whatever I can to do to help any of you.

Yes sir. TY for explaining the possibilities. I have 96"/flour bulbs in the lighting fixtures in a 25'w x 50'd x16'h commercial building structure.

I've been wanting to swap to LED lighting & was reading up on the need to re-wire/by-pass ballasts. I was hoping for an alternative that allowed plug-n-play swapping as well as adding an additional row @ the very front area of the shop. The bulbs in my fixtures are T12's w/the single pin mounting/locating.

Building owner won't allow individual 'modifying' of the structure/utilities so if I modded things for new LED fixtures I would have to swap things back over @ some point which I don't want to do.

Thus.... Looking for a plug-n-play solution.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yes sir. TY for explaining the possibilities. I have 96"/flour bulbs in the lighting fixtures in a 25'w x 50'd x16'h commercial building structure.

I've been wanting to swap to LED lighting & was reading up on the need to re-wire/by-pass ballasts. I was hoping for an alternative that allowed plug-n-play swapping as well as adding an additional row @ the very front area of the shop. The bulbs in my fixtures are T12's w/the single pin mounting/locating.

Building owner won't allow individual 'modifying' of the structure/utilities so if I modded things for new LED fixtures I would have to swap things back over @ some point which I don't want to do.

Thus.... Looking for a plug-n-play solution.

Damn, not sure what they have for a Hybrid A & B for 8ft single pin. It may be due to the starter that is also installed besides the ballast, not sure but i will send my guy Kevin a question for you on this.

[SCOTI]

Exactly. I found I would basically have to purchase all new 4' set-ups & hang them directly under the current housings.

[SCOTI]

Deleted.

[88Stanger]

Well I know I sound like a broken record recently, BUT I got all the new lights in (what a HUGE difference) and got the shop all cleaned up, to the point where I was able to get it back onto the lift and start to get a new game plan.
first plan is to get the cab all ready for paint. It is in sealer and alot of the body work is done, BUT after getting the new lights installled.... ya I have some areas that need to be addressed, lol. So my plan is to get onto that, get it basically ready for paint. Then I will set it onto the frame (frame is already done) and start to test pre-fit all the other panels, brakes, lines, cables, stereo, wires and such. This will take some time, but I want to prefit everything first, then I will start the painting process. I have all the parts (minus the Holly Injection) and so now it is time to test fit and then get ready to paint.

Now with all that said, a few things have developed. My dad is not doing well and so couple weeks ago I made a somewhat emergency trip to Alabama to visit and just hang out with him. This time was so worth it but while I was there, my cousin showed me a new toy... that is for sale... a 1940 Chevy Coupe.... all steel, new floors, very little denting, no real rust, all parts exists, runs with a 383 stroker, auto tranny and Ford 9". So I may have a new toy to play with.

On the other side is I screwed my back a good one. I have a bad back as it is, had surgery a few years ago and every once in a while I will turn just right and pop, out it goes, drops me to my knees and (as it is shown and laughed at) get stuck and for a while cannot stand back up. Not fun but I will get through it. Gives me a few days to develop my attack plan for the truck.
Anyways, more updates and pics coming..

[88Stanger]

Ok SURPRISE!! I have actual update pics!! LOL

Anyways, getting the cab set onto the frame so that i can work on getting brakes system installed, rough idea for electrical layout, fitment to panels and so on. Anyways, with that said, I have got the two large front mounts in no issue, BUT the rear ones have a caged nut. Now my caged nuts are still in good condition, BUT the new Energy suspension bolts are to big it appears, am I seeing this correctly? Simple thing is just cut out the cage nuts and mount and use the supplied nuts, is this what it typically done?
Thanks in advance for help

UPDATED: Ok so it seems that i need to remove the original Caged Nuts and cage and install the bolts and nuts that came in the kit due to sleeve size is larger in the kit. No problem, can do.

[88Stanger]

Another question... I am going to be running full airbag suspension with individual controls. Here is my issue or question. I have bought a bunch of plastic DOT lines and PTC (Push to Lock) plastic fittings. My issue with these plastic fitting and tube is i want to make the routing look good and follow the brake and fuel lines where possible, nice clean install. The issue with that is trying to get 90 degree bends and such. I am thinking about going with Hard Aluminum lines and PTC fittings (copper/nickel plated). I like the idea of nicely routed lines and made from metal.
What I am looking for is any advice or ideas or even opinions. I have never really done airbag suspensions like this but i have made to many custom brake lines, so bending and mounting the lines i am not really worried about.
Thanks in advance for ideas and help!!

[88Stanger]

Ok so after alot of research, reading, and such I think I am going with the plastic lines that I have and PTC fittings. What I did is bought some Bulkhead fittings to solve my issue of coming out of the frame and turning 90 deg. I then bought various insulated clamps and I will keep these lines away from any heat. Overall the Plastic lines seem easier and if done right will work good.

[88Stanger]

One thing good about being in the design field, I have full access to AutoCad and that allows me to draw my proposed layout for the Air ride equipment. With that said, i am putting the tank (8" x 33" tank) and Single pump in the Bed of the truck. My truck bed will be wood. Now I am thinking of making a Deck or floor just to house the Air Tank and Pump that will then sit on the Truck bed. I am thinking this will be easier to assemble the air ride, not sure yet, just trying to get an idea. I was looking at .75 Plywood or I would use some nice solid wood piece(s) as needed to get the size of the floor, right now it looks like 14" x 58". Any suggestions?

[Paul Y]

That is looking rather fine Sir!

Might have missed it but what sound deadening did you use for the cab? Currently looking at Kilmat but always interested to hear others thoughts and experiences.

Looks like you will be done before me....

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

That is looking rather fine Sir!

Might have missed it but what sound deadening did you use for the cab? Currently looking at Kilmat but always interested to hear others thoughts and experiences.

Looks like you will be done before me....

P.

Kilmat is good stuff. I honestly went with some generic stuff the last build (1969) and had alot left over, so I am using that.

Thank you sir for the kind comments. your build is looking great! Me done before you... ya do not think so... lol
You see that Summit has changed the frame kits? They are moving towards that flat welded stuff, personally I prefer the tube style we have.
Updated pics coming below by the way.

[88Stanger]

Ok, So I remove the cage nuts and installed the larger bolts and mounts for the cab to frame. This now allows me to start looking at mounting and routing all the lines and cables (Air lines, Fuel, Electrical, Brake and such).

For the air ride, I bought some Bulkhead fittings and got them mounted and I like the way they sit now. Also bought a butt load of 1/4" line insulated mounts to run the lines along the frame. I have two areas that I need to bend 90 Degree and rather than have another damn fitting, I played around a bit with some boiling water, heat gun and such to see if I could get a decent small radius bend out of the air line and I like what I was able to get without damage or kinking the lines so that will be done in a couple areas.

I am looking to mount the Air Tank, Compressor in the bed of the truck (I like the industrial look). With that I am also looking to mount the batter box in the bed also next to the tank. So the tank will be close to the Cab end of the bed with the compressor mounted in front of it and then my batter box will be mounted next to the air tank on the passenger side of the bed. I tried the relocated batter drop down box and well with my frame brace and such the box is only 3" from the ground at best when all the air is out of the air lines and I am not good with that, so to the bed we go.

As you can see in the pics, at no air in bags I only have 4" of clearance, so if I am traveling and loose all the air I want to be able to drive home.

[88Stanger]

more pics

[88Stanger]

Ok, Update for this past weekend.
After getting back late Friday from Las Vegas and a recuperation period I started to look into the Exhaust for the truck. Here is what I am dealing with and what I have planned to work.
First few pics are of the front end and the two types of bump stops, ones that came with lower arms and then Energy Suspension ones I installed. The black ones are really soft and will distort when all the air is out of the bags and it is on them, where as the redo ones are stiffer and i prefer.

[88Stanger]

Myself and a friend over the water a bit both have this brace kit from Summit (now it is a box sheet metal makeup, I really prefer the tube look). In that, you will see a gap in the middle on both sides of the brace. In the next few pics you will see the measurements of this area. I would really like to put the muffler in this area due to the lower stance of the frame. With that said a "Turbo" style muffler will not work, hangs down way to far. I should say that I plan to install side exhaust, right before the rear tire.

[88Stanger]

a few more pics

[88Stanger]

So, I measured and bought these to fit in that area

[88Stanger]

Thinking about these tips or similar

[88Stanger]

I am not going to lie, I was thinking of maybe even running the exhaust out the bed at a 45 degree angle up. I know I mentioned this earlier and got some negative feedback on this idea and some valid reasons why not, but damn I just like being different.. How many times have you seen that? maybe twin turbo setup.
Comments?

[joesscamaro]

My opinion...go for the look that you have in your head. In the end, your opinion is what matters when it comes to your truck. Looking nice and clean under there!