Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Thanks for the kind comments. Take a look at some of the new ways the steering box can be mounted in or near the stock location. It will eliminate interference between the drivers tire and draglink when mounted in front of the axle. I am going to finish mine up and drive it, if it gets to be an aggrevation then easy to change.

Do you have a link to the info of the new ways to mount the steering box? I havent been able to find any.

[6BT 56]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Thanks for the kind comments. Take a look at some of the new ways the steering box can be mounted in or near the stock location. It will eliminate interference between the drivers tire and draglink when mounted in front of the axle. I am going to finish mine up and drive it, if it gets to be an aggrevation then easy to change.

I did mine exactly like you did yours Orrie . Works well. Yes the tire rubs on the pitman arm when you crank it but it is what it is . I think i may take the pitman arm to a good welder this winter when I change out the steering box and have them shorten it by a inch or so . Its funny how the steerig shaft fits exactly thru the stamping on the inner fender once you cut it out . I have always messed with GM cars and trucks and the things that will swap out thru the years are mind blowing .

[OrrieG]

Finally got some ac vents I like, came from a 09 Mustang. Chrome and silver without looking cheesey. This allowed me to finish the kick panels. Faux leather matchs the seats and column cover. Working the material over compound and reverse curves was fun, wifes hair dryer helped a little. Courtesy lights are mid 60's Olds Starfire. Speakers are for mock up, do not know if I will keep them black or maybe darker shade of grey? Need to get the rest of the interior buttoned up. Also fabbed my ac adjustment bracket, old end I had welded to 3/16 x 1 inch flat stock. Little more sanding and shot of paint and that is done too.

[Denee007]

Awesome Orrie, you're so creative! When driving back from the Nifty50ees at night, my interior cab is really dark, except for the illuminated instrument lights (which don't offer much light) and my 7" screen dvd/radio. I'd like those lights like you have and perhaps on a rheostat could offer a dim light on the floor? What kind of lighting could give a nice glow on the floor/ or leg area?

[Kim57]

Those are some nice kick panels.
Kim

[_Ogre]

nice work on the kicks orrieg. now you need to make a mold and sell them

[OrrieG]

Denee, I will shoot some dark photos when I get everything wired up. I am going to do a rough mock up w/o a reostat and see how it looks, would be easy enough to wire one in the circuit. The lamps are only 7w so not to bright to start with. I decided to go ahead in install the battery to test what wiring I have finaled (everything except front and back lights).

Orge and Kim, thanks for the comments.

[dubie]

Great job Orrie, that is going to add a lot of class to your interior. I think the under lighting will actually look better in the cab than the stock dome light does.

[Rods57]

Orrie, love the kick panel AC vents that's really a good idea.

[mvitale27]

Orrie, I have been looking at your thread for ideas on motor/trans mounting for my own project. Could you take a photo of your front motor mounts?

Also, I am a little confused on how you adapted your trans/transfer case to the stock frame/mounts. Can you elaborate on this? Thanks!

[oldman3]

Nice ideal with the hidden switch (Orge)...Jim

[OrrieG]

Here is the modification to the ac vent. It came out of an 09 Mustang, about 2 7/8" OD. AC hose is 2.5" ID. It was also too long for the hose to bend without crimping. It is abs, so I cut it down and used a sewer coupling and piece of pipe as a reducer. Both required taking out about 1/4" to reduce the diameter. Bottom is stock, top modified.

Still fighting getting the correct lamp sockets for the courtesty lights. NAPA is on try two, will be here in a week or so. If its a direct replacement will post the number for all to use. Also got my taillight leds but they sent 1156 single filament instead of 1157 dual advertised to have to wait on that too.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Nice ideal with the hidden switch (Orge)...Jim

who's this orge guy with all these cool ideas?

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

who's this orge guy with all these cool ideas?

I got the spelling from above post, sorry it was wrong. I also notice you have posted that the fiberglass forum is back up. I looked at this alot, until it told me I couldn't sign on. Will give it a try again...Jim

[OrrieG]

Sorry for the misspelling...

[msilva12]

OrrieG what year and make did you use the park brake pedal mechanism from?

I love the thread great job. I been down and sick for a couple of days and just read the entire thread. I cant wait to get going on mine!

[Sam03]

Great build! Keep the updates come!

[OrrieG]

Accumulating parts for a big push when temps get better. Just about everything left needs warmer weather to accomplish.

[OrrieG]

This is out of sequence but tired of looking for it and realizing I did not post. Around post 815 I was doing the cab wiring. here is a photo of the back of my cluster before I put it in. I wanted to show the trailer light connector I used and the new lamp holder, available off the rack at O'riellys. The upper lights are a separate harness directly from the light switch. Ammeter wired directly, oil pressure is mechanical fitting.

[oldman3]

Looks nice and neat, plug in makes it nice, if it has to come out....Jim

[OrrieG]

Good weekend. Got the hose routed from the wiper fluid tank to inside the cab, need to get a tee and some smaller line for the wiper bezels. Dropped in a battery and started checking circuits. Got a scare when I first connected the battery some of the AC relays activated, need to check the circuit to see if they were just setting or if they are drawing power all the time.

All of the stuff I have hooked up works except for the 4wd indicator on the transfer case (the switch is good, think I have a bad connection in the circuit) and an over-ride switch I wired into the courtesy relay is not working.

Here are photos of the instrument lights and high beam indicator, courtesy lights (each door operates both lights in the kick panel using a relay), dome light, and the ac and back wiring of the kick panels as I installed them. Got them installed too.

I had to take out the light switch and do some work on it. Initially the dome and instruments did not work. The switch was working when I removed it 15 years ago but sitting around it got dirty. A little sand paper for the dome ground and it started working. The instrument circuit is working but might be developing an internal break. Everything is ok on the outside of the switch, including the reostat, I am hoping one it gets used regulary it will be ok. If not its easy enough to replace.

Engine turns over so next I am going to check the fluids and start it up to check for leaks before I start putting on any more front sheet metal.

All the pics except the back of the kick panel were taken with any light in the cab or the camera flash on. Pretty bright.

[Flames97]

Cool build. I've checked it out many times before and enjoy it.

[Kim57]

Coming along real nicely.
Kim

[oldman3]

Feels good to have things working and getting them off the "to do list"...Jim

[OrrieG]

Thanks guys. I checked the front and back lighting circuits, no lights just the connector ends, everything worked as is should. Also remembered that the "faulty" courtesy light override is not that, it is the back up light switch, I have it set up so the reverse column switch or dash switch with turn on the back up light(s). Going to get an 4" aircraft landing light (off road guys love them) to use back there so I can flash the tailgaters and high beam runners...