Markeb01 Build Thread

[likaroc13]

Such a bummer about the chrome bead! I agree that it did look nice. A complete engine swap with relatively no issues whatsoever. Then your Mooneyes sticker washes off, & chrome on the rear window bead flakes off. It's the little things that'll drive you crazy!

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by Ta2Don

Gotta admit, I like the chrome bead, but after reading about your "fun" I think the black is the way to go... Always fun checing in on ya no matter what the outcome. Keep up the Great Work!
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Thanks Don. I really like the appearance of the chrome bead and was bummed to see it go. I suppose another attempt isn’t much of an effort compared to restoring the windshield trim. Maybe I’ll try it again when the failure isn’t so fresh. One thing I can confirm – the black bead is a lot less work!

I like posting every result, good or bad. I’ve learned as much from the problems others have experienced as from their successes, so I try to return the favor and just be truthful no matter what the outcome. Hopefully someone else benefits from my screw ups.

Originally Posted by likaroc13

Such a bummer about the chrome bead! I agree that it did look nice. A complete engine swap with relatively no issues whatsoever. Then your Mooneyes sticker washes off, & chrome on the rear window bead flakes off. It's the little things that'll drive you crazy!

Thanks Phillip. Isn’t that just the way it is. And with the leaky fuel lines that makes 3. Maybe I’ve filled my quota for a while!

[66-PMD-GMC]

Thumbs up Mark

[clemdaddy]

yeah, i don't think they're making that chrome bead as well as they used to... whoever they is. i had just the same experience before and no matter how careful you are, the shinny part just flakes off.
bummer mark... but it did look good enough for another shot.

[Ta2Don]

[QUOTE=markeb01;6082049]

I like posting every result, good or bad. I’ve learned as much from the problems others have experienced as from their successes, so I try to return the favor and just be truthful no matter what the outcome. Hopefully someone else benefits from my screw ups.

I need to slow down and take a cue from you and make a list... While mounting my engine and tranny, I had to make a run to the parts store for some fasteners. I had pulled a bolt that attaches the trans mount to the trans for the correct threads to get the bolts to attach to the crossmember, and due to impatience or whatever misfiring occurred in my brain, I had the crossmember bolted to the trans mount then realized I had an extra bolt... So unbolt the crossmember, replace forgotten mount bolt, then re-attach crossmember... Yessir, I need to make list! Sorry for the momentary hijack! Just had to say thanks to your meticulous posting, I found the need to implement your list idea...

[piratexpress1369a]

to bad the chrome did not work out the way you wanted ..it did add some flash to the window

[CRGRS 66]

Very disappointing to be sure. My Mom always told me to look on the bright side (not always an easy thing to do).

So the bright side, hey, how is the new engine running, would love to see some more in dash rollin' down the road video....

[Vernski]

Hi Mark that is a bummy deal with the chrome separating from the bead like that, sometimes Murphy's law applies. I wonder if the windex or armorall had any effect on it lifting like that? If the windex had ammonia in it that could be what happend as it allowed the chrome film to lift. I know the stuff with ammonia will make clear plastic cloud up so you can't see through it [I sprayed it on a speedometer lens once it was plastic] When I did my window i had the shop warmed up to about 70* that bead comes rolled up and I straightened it out with Judy's hair dryer set between median & high. I used mild dish soap in a spray bottle to help lube it, and worked it in slowly re-warming the bead the bead when it felt stiff and tried to curl back up. Took me about an hour+ cause I move slow these days. That could be what happend w/ammonia, could be mfg. defect, long shelf life or other possibilities. Oh yeah I took the protective strip off when I first warmed it up...Vernski

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC

Thumbs up Mark

I read a quote somewhere to the effect – “You aren’t defeated when you lose. You’re only defeated when you quit”. Same thing they taught in Marine Corps boot camp. I’ve already ordered a new chrome lock bead. I’m not very tolerant of being defeated by an inanimate object!

Originally Posted by clemdaddy

yeah, i don't think they're making that chrome bead as well as they used to... whoever they is. i had just the same experience before and no matter how careful you are, the shinny part just flakes off.
bummer mark... but it did look good enough for another shot.

I’d like to think the chrome quality has deteriorated, it’s a bit ego soothing. But 2/3’s of the seal turned out perfect after I quit using the accessory tool and the Windex. So I’m thinking one or the other was the problem and the failure can be blamed on “pilot error”. I’m ready to try again as soon as a replacement lock bead/seal shows up.

[quote=Ta2Don;6082503]

Originally Posted by markeb01

I need to slow down and take a cue from you and make a list... While mounting my engine and tranny, I had to make a run to the parts store for some fasteners. I had pulled a bolt that attaches the trans mount to the trans for the correct threads to get the bolts to attach to the crossmember, and due to impatience or whatever misfiring occurred in my brain, I had the crossmember bolted to the trans mount then realized I had an extra bolt... So unbolt the crossmember, replace forgotten mount bolt, then re-attach crossmember... Yessir, I need to make list! Sorry for the momentary hijack! Just had to say thanks to your meticulous posting, I found the need to implement your list idea...

I started creating lists and detailed plans before a major project when I lived in North Idaho. We lived 26 miles from town. A trip to town took at least an hour, or perhaps half a day if it required going to more than one place.

Since my truck was also my daily driver, most work had to be done on Saturday or Sunday, and it had to be ready for work on Monday. I looked at it like surgery. Once I sliced into the patient, there could be no stopping until it was completely sewn up and ready for service. Failure simply wasn’t an option. I found that planning everything out ahead of time allowed me to collect up anything I might have overlooked.

It was later I realized how valuable the checklist was, because I could keep a copy on the bench and keep checking off steps. Every now and then something would jump off the page that I forgot several steps ago. I live right in town now, so the distance isn’t such a problem, but now the lists are force of habit that I’ve come to depend on.

Originally Posted by piratexpress1369a

to bad the chrome did not work out the way you wanted ..it did add some flash to the window

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

Very disappointing to be sure. My Mom always told me to look on the bright side (not always an easy thing to do).

So the bright side, hey, how is the new engine running, would love to see some more in dash rollin' down the road video....

Yesterday I was bummed and my hands hurt. Today I’m ready to start over. Just have to wait for the new chrome strip to try again. And FYI – the engine is running great. It sounds cool, all the bugs are sorted out, and I’m ready for more video. I’m really trying to get it over 1,000 miles before I start flogging it though. So far it has about 50 miles on the odometer! I just don’t go very far in it anymore.

Originally Posted by Vernski

Hi Mark that is a bummy deal with the chrome separating from the bead like that, sometimes Murphy's law applies. I wonder if the windex or armorall had any effect on it lifting like that? If the windex had ammonia in it that could be what happend as it allowed the chrome film to lift. I know the stuff with ammonia will make clear plastic cloud up so you can't see through it [I sprayed it on a speedometer lens once it was plastic] When I did my window i had the shop warmed up to about 70* that bead comes rolled up and I straightened it out with Judy's hair dryer set between median & high. I used mild dish soap in a spray bottle to help lube it, and worked it in slowly re-warming the bead the bead when it felt stiff and tried to curl back up. Took me about an hour+ cause I move slow these days. That could be what happend w/ammonia, could be mfg. defect, long shelf life or other possibilities. Oh yeah I took the protective strip off when I first warmed it up...Vernski

I think you’ve established the answer. The length that did not get manhandled with Windex and the accessory tool came out perfect. Even the joint at the bottom turned out perfect. Next time I’ll try it with soap and my hook tool. If that also fails, I really will give up and leave it black. But it’s better than 50/50 it can turn out looking good. So there is another attempt on schedule in the near future.

[LostMy65]

I need to poke my head in here more often.
I hadn't realized you had pulled the engine.
Fun Stuff!

[markeb01]

That's the problem I have. There is so much going on I just can't keep up with all the activity on other build threads. And if I take a few days off to work on my own stuff I really get behind!

[markeb01]

Here’s a tiny little video clip of us leaving our daughter’s place yesterday. She captured the moment on her cell phone, so the video quality is rather poor. I need to reset the electric fan as it is coming on too soon, and just about drowns out the rest of the audio:

http://youtu.be/4M4EUSce7fo

[Ta2Don]

Love the sound of that new engine!!!

[piratexpress1369a]

almost sound like you put a blower in it

[1963c-10]

I didn't have any issues w/my chrome lock strip. Was installed last year and still looks great. I wonder why yours did that. Mine was installed in late summer or early fall and I din't heat it up. Just unrolled and installed. Also...vents arrived yesterday. Will get postage to you this week. Thanks again.

[Bomp]

Nice sounding truck. Tough and ready to git it!!!

[Grizz1963]

Pity about the bead Mark.

I restored a '63 VW Beetle years ago and when I replaced the rear glass, I also found a NOS rubber and trim.... the chome trim was a pain to fit, but made a difference.
Maybe you will find a plan B to try again some time.

[markeb01]

We’ve been having so much fun since the new motor went in. The idle really sounds tough, and the Pete Jackson noisy gear drive really screams now. I’m not sure why it’s so much louder than before. The only two changes I made was to really close up the camshaft end gap and provide more clearance between the power gear axle and the engine block.

I don’t really know what the clearances were in the old engine, but when first installed in the new engine the camshaft thrust bumper was nearly 1/8” from the back of the timing cover. It was supposed to be between .005 and .010, so I set it at .010. Perhaps this is causing the timing cover to act more like a diaphragm speaker.

Again I didn’t check how they fit in the old engine, but when the idler gears were installed in the new engine, there was zero clearance between the front cover and the idler gear axle on the front, and zero on the back against the block. The gap called for was between .015 and .065. I kept it tight at about .015-.020. It wasn’t real easy to measure as the block is not flat in that area. In any event, whatever I did turned it into a real screamer. I’ve been driving behind a Pete Jackson noisy drive since about 1984, and people stopped turning heads many years ago. But now, we have guys, girls, and old ladies turning to look at the truck. Between the cam/exhaust and the gear drive it really commands attention.

We’re planning a day trip this weekend, and it’s forecast to be in the high 70’s. One feature of the AFB/Edelbrock carb I’ve never been thrilled about is the hot-engine-soak flooding. I’m running a 180 degree thermostat and when the engine is turned off on a hot day the intake manifold can soak up to 215-220 (or higher). This boils the gas in the carb and makes hot restarting difficult. So last night I finally installed the Edelbrock heat isolator plate under the carburetor. It’s been hanging on the garage wall for a couple of years awaiting longer studs. It’s the orange spacer under the carb shown below:







Driving today the manifold soaked up to 205 after sitting for about 10 minutes, and the carb didn’t care at all. It just fired right up.

It was a pretty simple swap, requiring longer studs and fabrication of a longer connection from the cruise control cable to the throttle arm (which I’ll be finishing tonight). The hard line from the fuel pressure regulator to the carb was also replaced. The choke, smog and power brake vacuum hoses, and throttle linkage required no modifications.

Also the new back window trim showed up yesterday. I’ll give that another try when the weather warms up, which may happen this weekend.

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

I didn't have any issues w/my chrome lock strip. Was installed last year and still looks great. I wonder why yours did that. Mine was installed in late summer or early fall and I din't heat it up. Just unrolled and installed. Also...vents arrived yesterday. Will get postage to you this week. Thanks again.

Glad the vents finally showed up, I meant to let you know they were on the way. I’d still like to forget the shipping. I don’t like promising something that takes a month to fulfill.

And I think the chrome window bead was ruined by using Windex. I think Vernski got it right when he suggested the ammonia in the Windex may have eaten the plastic. Next attempt I’ll be using Dove dishwashing soap instead!

[likaroc13]

Glad ya'll are enjoying the new engine & it's beautiful noises. It really does sound cool with the whine, so it's no surprise at the attention you get. Hope your new chrome window bead works like a charm this time around!

[66 C10 383]

Mark, it's all your fault ...

It's your fault that I've decided to put my noisy Pete Jackson in my engine before dropping it in my truck. It's a 383 with a TPI based fuel injection unit. Everybody says it'll mess with the knock sensor. Some guys on a 3rd gen Camaro board are running gear drives and tune their own chips. Seems the gear drives don't have any negative effects on the knock sensor. When I had my engine rebuilt, I decided to go with a double roller chain just in case and the PJ is quietly sitting in a box on the shelf. I ran a PJ noisy on a 69 Camaro I had that was carbed for years and had no negative experiences with it.

So, it's your fault that before the engine goes in the truck, I gotta drop the pan and pull the balancer, then the timing cover, dig Mr. Jackson back from his slumber on the shelf, and recruit him back into service ...

THANK YOU !!!

I'm not sure I could've been satisified without it anyway ...

I've looked over your build many numerous times and you have inspired several ideas I'd like to incorparate ( okay, I'm gonna steal your ideas !!! ... ) into my build.

John Deere Blitz Black paint
above mentioned gear drive
I now have the stainless windshield trim coming from a board member
guess the chrome bead on my back window will see my truck too

Who knows how many other ideas I've gotten from you that I've completely forgotten who's truck I've seen them on.

Thanks so much for the attention to detail you show, the excellant documentation, and the contribution you give so willingly.

... and one heck of a beautiful truck !!!

Doug

[1963c-10]

Ok, thanks again Mark.

[Jmorales3181]

Truck sounds great Mark!

As far as your rear window chrome I use spray way glass cleaner and is ammonia free works great for glass chrome stainless...and paint actually and I tend to use it while detailing interiors as well...just my 2cents

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[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by Jmorales3181

Truck sounds great Mark!

As far as your rear window chrome I use spray way glass cleaner and is ammonia free works great for glass chrome stainless...and paint actually and I tend to use it while detailing interiors as well...just my 2cents

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Where does one find this product for purchase?

[markeb01]

Thanks for the tip on the glass cleaner. I would also like to know where it can be purchased.

Today I spent over 8 hours getting rid of the FBI virus which shut down my computer. Once that was fixed I made up a new camera bracket that will attach to the back wall of the cab with Velcro. It was painted wrinkle finish black so it should be reasonably stealthy. I really like the way Vernski's back window looks with the chrome trim, and if my second attempt is successful I don't really want anything on the window to detract from the trim. The new bracket should minimize the camera and make the attachment hardware look a little less like it belongs in a new car.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Today I spent over 8 hours getting rid of the FBI virus which shut down my computer. Once that was fixed I made up a new camera bracket that will attach to the back wall of the cab with Velcro. It was painted wrinkle finish black so it should be reasonably stealthy. I really like the way Vernski's back window looks with the chrome trim, and if my second attempt is successful I don't really want anything on the window to detract from the trim. The new bracket should minimize the camera and make the attachment hardware look a little less like it belongs in a new car.

The fools that write viruses should be shot, period!

I like the way you are thinking about the mounting hardware. Another home run.
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