85 burb meets 6.0 lq4

[85burb]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Is that just the lighting or are your calipers cad plated? If they are cad plated where did you get them?

Not sure if they are plated but they are a gold ish color. Got them at autozone. 12.99 each.

[85burb]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

having that booster tank holding reserve vacuum for the power booster and a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve to dial in the rear brakes...mine sill stop on a dime and leave some change.

The wifes 68 has 4 wheel durm breaks and they were fun some times. Her dad almost missed an exit one day at about 90 and when he got stoped all 4 drums were glowing red. Needles to say when it came time to turn the drums it did not go well at all.

[y5mgisi]

So have you figured your mpg yet?

[85burb]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

So have you figured your mpg yet?

No i have not. I filled up friday and and drove friday to work 24 miles, to wash it 8 miles and work tues day therw today like 75 miles and still have little over 3/4 tank. Way better so far

[y5mgisi]

Sweet! I think that even if mpg was just slightly better, then it would still be crazy worth it from a drive ability standpoint! So jealous!

[85burb]

It does not drive like a new car but is way better then a carb to me. You have to let it run for a min befor putting in gear maybe 30 sec or so but it is way better then 4-5 mins with the carb

[68GMCCustom]

woah.....you still have to wait? I would have thought not.
I guess its because the efi computer doesn't have control of the MSD box?
Maybe you need to change your initial to 1000rpm timing?

[85burb]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

woah.....you still have to wait? I would have thought not.
I guess its because the efi computer doesn't have control of the MSD box?
Maybe you need to change your initial to 1000rpm timing?

Well when it start it goes to 1000 rpm then drops to like 600 then goes to 700 what i have it set at. It is still learning and it is cammed so that may be a factor in that. What do you mean by initial to 1000 timing. What should i try? If i punch it from idle it does not bog or miss or anything. That would be cool to have timing controll with this efi. All it would take is 4 extra connectors. cam, crank, 2 coil harnesses. Fast makes a controller for ls igitions but they still dont do that. They also sell a kit to put the hole fast maniflod on and control everything and it is self tuning. But price is outrages

[85burb]

Well i am on day 9 on my gas and still have about half tank. Befor efi i could drive to work 6 days and that is it. So far it is tons better. Now if i run out of gas cause my gauge is stiking i will be a little mad. It has never moved this slow. Not even with old 350 in it. I cant wait to fill it up and check milage.

[okieraptor]

Wish I could drive nine days on a tank of gas! Must be nice. And to think I have a diesel!
Posted via Mobile Device

[68GMCCustom]

yeah....but its like a 35gal. to 40gal. tank too!

[85burb]

Well tomorrow will last day on this tank. I only let it use 17-18 gallons. That is 1/4 tank or so. 11 days on this tank. That is a record for my truck. VERY Happy with the efi.

[85burb]

Yep 11 days to work and one short trip. Have not filled tank yet but that i around 15 mpg mixed city/hiway.

[85burb]

Well now i have a transfer case seal leak. It is the front output (front drive shaft) yoke seal i hope. It has been leaking for ever. I managed to spray off my t-case good last time i washed buddy and i parked over clean pavement to day at work and it is leaving a wet spot about 6 inchs around. Not a puddle just wet. Will try to replace it this week end. Any one know what size the nut is to take the yoke off? Thanks.

[85burb]

pic of what i should be doing sat. Does not sound too hard. Hope the yoke is not messed up. Also in the pic is my dads day pic. NEW SHOES. (My cat hates them.)

[85burb]

I got the new seal installed today. Took under one hour. My yoke nut was bearly tight. I was happy to see i had about 2 qts of fluid left in my transfer case. It has been leaking from the day i bought the truck. When i checked everything to move to tx it was 2.5 qts low...that is how much they are supposed to hold. Good thing i checked it. I hope now it will stop leaking. I need to find a new front drive shaft tho. My slip joint is loose and my cv joint has some slack in it.

[y5mgisi]

I need to find a new front drive shaft tho. My slip joint is loose and my cv joint has some slack in it.

Me too!

[85burb]

I am looking to get a more hp now. I will be making extra money soon and will have some to play so ideas are welcom. I will first replace my rear springs and blocks with a 6 inch lift spring to leavle out the ride. Then rebuild my rear end with the truetrak i have. Any ideas on hp increase other then nitro and forced induction? I also cant loose low end tq due to size.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

I am looking to get a more hp now. I will be making extra money soon and will have some to play so ideas are welcom. I will first replace my rear springs and blocks with a 6 inch lift spring to leavle out the ride. Then rebuild my rear end with the truetrak i have. Any ideas on hp increase other then nitro and forced induction? I also cant loose low end tq due to size.

Some time on a chassis dyno to really dial in the tune would be a good place to start.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

I am looking to get a more hp now. I will be making extra money soon and will have some to play so ideas are welcom. I will first replace my rear springs and blocks with a 6 inch lift spring to leavle out the ride. Then rebuild my rear end with the truetrak i have. Any ideas on hp increase other then nitro and forced induction? I also cant loose low end tq due to size.

Did you ever get a set of headers to fit it? If I remember right you had problems with the ebay f-body headers.

[MTCK]

Air in, air out. Headers, exhaust, a cold air intake if you don't already have one... You already have a cam, right? Heads would be the next logical step. Happy with your axle gears? A shorter rear end always helps the giddy up... A perfect spark and fuel curve tune also works wonders, as stated above.

[85burb]

I want a set of headers but none are avalible. Dougs said they have some in the works but everytime i ask he does not answer or has no idea. I have called everyone. The only ones that are said to fit is s&p shortys. I cant see spending 600 buck on shortys. BRPhot rods also said they had a set in the works but i have sent many emails and they say now they dont have any. So my options are keep buying sets and hope they fit or keep what i got and work around them. On the exhaust i have duel 2 1/4 pipes with h pipe and flowmaster 40s. I wanted a 2.5 inch or bigger but i was told by 2 exhaust shops that it would not make a difference. I am sure i am getting all the induction i need with a 1000 cfm 4 barrle throttle body and a edelbrock intake. As of now i have a 14x4 round air cleaner on it. Not sure if that is holding me back but i dont think so. I am sure my ignition could use some work but i cant really feel the difference when i change the curve or degrees. I want to dyno it but dont know where there is one around here. I do have a cam i think the specs are in my sig. Dont get me wrong it will boil the rear TIRE threw second gear if i punch it but i would like more lowend and normal driving range power. Seems like takes a lot of throttle to pass. But if i put it to floor it comes alive. Let me know if i am crazy or not. Or if i dont make a lot of sence.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

I want a set of headers but none are avalible. Dougs said they have some in the works but everytime i ask he does not answer or has no idea. I have called everyone. The only ones that are said to fit is s&p shortys. I cant see spending 600 buck on shortys. BRPhot rods also said they had a set in the works but i have sent many emails and they say now they dont have any. So my options are keep buying sets and hope they fit or keep what i got and work around them. On the exhaust i have duel 2 1/4 pipes with h pipe and flowmaster 40s. I wanted a 2.5 inch or bigger but i was told by 2 exhaust shops that it would not make a difference. I am sure i am getting all the induction i need with a 1000 cfm 4 barrle throttle body and a edelbrock intake. As of now i have a 14x4 round air cleaner on it. Not sure if that is holding me back but i dont think so. I am sure my ignition could use some work but i cant really feel the difference when i change the curve or degrees. I want to dyno it but dont know where there is one around here. I do have a cam i think the specs are in my sig. Dont get me wrong it will boil the rear TIRE threw second gear if i punch it but i would like more lowend and normal driving range power. Seems like takes a lot of throttle to pass. But if i put it to floor it comes alive. Let me know if i am crazy or not. Or if i dont make a lot of sence.

A cold air intake will do wonders for you at all RPM ranges. With the open element air cleaner you are sucking in hot air once the engine warms up and giving up some power and efficiency.

Your cam is big enough that a little more stall converter will help get that tank moving better too. Not the easiest or cheapest thing to do in a 4x4 but it makes a big difference on a cammed motor. Somewhere around 2800 rpm will work well for your application and since it is a lock up converter it won't mess with your cruise RPM or freeway mileage. It will also put you further into the engines power band where you need to be to get moving easier and let you gain access to the power you already have.

You have enough cam and cubic inches that the headers are the next step. You might have to modify a set to make them work for you and stay on budget. Did you keep the ebay ones you picked up?

If you can cut out the offending tubes from the f-body set and cut up some mandrel U-bends to clear you can have a welding shop finish the job for not much cost, typically $60 and hour around here. You can rent (or borrow) a MIG welder to tack the cut tubes in place so the welding shop has no guess work to do as to how they are put together.

I had a muffler shop make and weld the modified tubes in place for the first set I did before I got my own welder. I just bent up a piece of coat hanger into the shape I needed and they matched it with tubing.

A set of inexpensive small block headers that fit your truck could be merged with a set of LSx headers if all else fails. Back in the 80's I did this to put a 428SCJ motor into a friends 73 Mach 1 that never came with the 428 as an option so no headers to fit it existed at the time. It worked great and cost a bunch less than a scratch built custom set.

With the cam you have the LQ4 should have no problem making 400 hp at the engine using the stock heads if you tune it right. The muffler shop built 2-1/4" exhaust system is definitely a restriction. Their compression bends are reducing the pipe to less than 2" in cross section and create severe restrictions to air flow. A mandrel bent 2-1/2" system will make a huge difference. A set of Flowmaster mandrel bent tail pipes will give you a majority of what you need to fit the Suburban. The rest can be done with a couple mandrel U-bends and some sections of straight tubing.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-15803/

The Hooker Aero Chamber mufflers sound great and flow better than the Flowmasters for about the same amount of money. Lots of clips on youtube so you can see what they sound like. I have put them on two of my vehicles and liked them a lot. Less drone than the Flowmaster with a similar sound.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-21502HKR/

Found this test listing for some ideas of HP & sound level differences.

http://www.facebook.com/note.php?note_id=371165168511

They don't say which Flowmaster muffler they tested so it is kind of vague but gives you some idea how they do.

[85burb]

Thanks for the info. The exhaust i think really sucks. On the driver side the factory maniflod puts the exit inside my frame rail so they had to make a thight s bend to move it out. The pipe he used fits inside the 2 1/4 pipe so i am guessing it is a 2 inch. But that is all they could do. I may just take my chanses with the mid lenght headers. They say they exit at the bellhousing area so should not matter if it is 4x4 or 2wd. Maybe i can set up a deal with them where i pay and if they dont fit i get to send them back and get all my money. Really wish i could get long tubes. I have no garadge so modifying a set is not an option now. I sold the fbody headers long ago. They would take so much work it would be better to just get the flanges and start from scratch. I will have to call brp back.

[68GMCCustom]

check out jhl8cn (or something like that) LSx K10 in this thread....
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=412159&page=5