Project: Tow-Rat (Lil' Blue)

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Have you looked at a racepak for your gauges and data logging? For the cost of the holley stuff I think the racepak might be a better option price wise.

Your air valves look like the little Larry ones I have on my truck. I'm guessing these guys bought Larry out. Unless they changed design or upgraded something inside them, plan to add some lube to your air system maybe 1 or 2x a year. I only have the 2 valve and not the 4 but they will stick some times and that sucks. Hopefully yours won't. I've had mine on the truck for a long time so maybe mine is just an old design.

funny you should say that! i spent a lot of yesterday bored at work researching data logger and gauges racepak, AEM, and Holley are all kinda similar with different levels of fancy. i think i have currently landed on the Dakota Digital RTX (factory 55 looking cluster with the mini screen display in the speedo) and then a OneGauge with no screen to log into with my phone. looks like the cheapest, easiest, and best styled setup. i just need to hit up OneGauge n discuss inputs.

i'm pretty sure they did buy Larry's yeah, or might have been a partner ... not sure. the direction do say to oil em, i'll keep that in mind.

[Dieselwrencher]

I've been happy with my dakota digital VHX clusters. The only complaint I have is last time I called for the new setup, they said 6 month wait. That was good you got instructions with your valves. I'm pretty certain I didn't. But I do like the speed of them.

[6DoF]

ok, the painless harness for the win. as i started i was hesitant to reorganize or cut things, but after getting into it, that just works. as soon as i have a wiring issue with my 93 it's just getting all-new from scratch too.



i really keep feeling like i want to make a funnel scoop cut into the front/side of the hood to bath the air filter. not sticking up or out at all, just thru the bulge right above/around the filter.

then here's how i ran the wiring. with no inner fenders at the moment, it's just attached to the under side of the fender at that lip. i made 2 nice big pass-thru grommets to then get behind the grill to hide the crossover and the fan relay. horn ordered, that's the green wire. i really like how all that hid really nicely behind the header latch panel. big blue wire is a ground strap. made a few different harness sections under the hood, i was worried that would look a mess but i think worked. the coil around the breather bottle are gauge sensor wires. i even put little 10-32 nutcerts in the cowl for that main harness fuse.

inside had such a massive pile of wires, but they are pre-bundled. by that time i was on a roll and just started hacking. left enough for easy servicing, wound up stuff for future use n BAM. lights work, switch is fully functional. key works, starts the damn thing, and splitting the ACC and IGN sets so the fans are on with the IGN but only the air compressors are on for the ACC.

i did end up hooking up the blinkers in the mid-bar in the headlights. hoping once i get the rear plugged in she'll actually flash.

[youngrodder]

Looking good. Wiring can be such a time suck. On my bagged 48 truck build I had custom inner fenders but I used a piece of SS tube and ran the wires thru it in case my tires as to come in cant when being really low and turning. I attached thru the fender bolts holes with isolated metal/rubber claps. Worked/looked slick.

Wiring means your getting close...

Marc

[6DoF]

not sure why, but getting the factory rear view mirror back in after sand blast n paint was super satisfying.

the kick panel covers however ... sometimes ya just gotta "paint it black and put it back"

finished getting the wiring under the truck covered and tied up, horn in, steering wheel final assembly, fuel tanks tied together with a balance hose and vent to make one big volume (19*2). getting more check marks on the list!

[6DoF]

this horn is CRAZY loud for as cheap as it was

https://imgur.com/7GFlR4F

[Jason 56]

Looking great. You’re making great progress. I can relate to the wiring fun. I’ve been doing it for 3+ weeks now. You’ve got to be getting close to roadworthy. Definitely anticipating completion. Keep the pictures coming!

[6DoF]

my barn kit got delivered! i can not wait for the foundation work to start ... i really need to get this bed done so i can maybe drive this while building the shop.

got a wild hair last night after the wife went to bed, got my shifter floor seal made. printed a cut template earlier over dinner for a nice tight fit. 2 layers of 1/8" neoprene, one cut around the trans and one around the shifter, then the steel trim ring. i feel like the ring should be AL or chrome, but should i paint it white or black for now?

later i think the wife plans to stitch up a boot for me too, but not needed to start driving this thing.

[dsraven]

black for me
nice job
will look great with a stitched boot

[6DoF]

black it is!

got the kick panel bits back in, just waiting on the vent flappers to show up to finish assembly of that stuff. factory radio delete blasted and re-painted. just don't know what to put into the last open hole, i don't have any more delete buttons ...

got most of the bed mounts frame and floor side fabbed up Sunday. i really need to just get the bed sides on already!

[6DoF]

so a buddy came thru Pitt for work and dropped off his Miller TIG machine for me to figure out. after a lot of practice on scrap and some aggravation, i think i did pretty decent. i have a lot to learn about making it easier/cheaper for myself though. i wasted SOOO much argon. but these hold water now!

1/2gal reservoir tank for the charge cooler(s). only running one system for now, but joined the possible 2 separate cooling circuits so they can balance when i get to that point. -12an weld on bungs to make future service easy.

[dsraven]

really, thats the best you got?

kidding, nice looking beads, are you sure you're a newb tig welder?

[6DoF]

haha, thanks ... also note, just to be sure **i bought the can and only welded the bungs on** some robot did the can weld still coated black

but first functional part! there's a chance i tried a TIG in college for like 3minutes, but this week was the first actual use. i mean, I'm not new to welding by any means, do plenty of soldering, lots of translated skills.

[6DoF]

i present excuse number ... i don't know what number, i lost count ... but other things are happening again! holy crap i'm excited to finally be building a for real shop out back.

[regan wilson]

I have had a new shop for ten years and can't get started on my next project.

[6DoF]

bed structure is well under way now, really hoping to have it together here soon. haven't started building the door yet though.

[6DoF]

fender wells so i can stop throwing gravel out of the tire tread at my new back window!

[6DoF]

first look at full concept! fenders mounted back n slightly down on the bedside, bedside mounted high and outboard. at full drop i have a very tight 1 finger between the tire and the fender. So unlike factory i actually lined up the body line between the cab to rear fender.

the running board is just sitting on the ground, i'll have to bend up some filler panels to get them mounted. also some kind of support cuz someone will stand on them. i'm debating how i deal with the gap to the cab after the fender moved back. buy a new re-pop board and just splice a section in? cut up 2 new boards to make one new long one? the passenger side is easy cuz it's space for the exhaust, so maybe i mount something else at the back of the cab? my only thoughts have been a Jerry Can holder for spare fuel or WMO. ... NOS bottle?

grabbed some scrap CORTEN steel i still have left over from from building the house to make the new wider header for the bed. i freaking love weathering steel, specially for a project like this. the bent sections worked out really well and is actually really stiff. it's not attached to the frame yet for access reasons ... but i'll eventually get that bolted.

5'2" wide, 9' long, 13" deep, and a flat floor. that's actually a considerable amount of space, especially for a slammed truck. i helped my wife cut all the plywood bed floor sections, used 3/4" pressure treated. once it's had some time to dry, she wants to paint or stain something interesting in it. i'm hoping to just find a 5x9 rubber mat to lay down in there.

[dsraven]

You could add length to the fenders if you think the gap to the csb looks looooong. A narrow upright toolbox could be placed on the step, or just go with looking. Your truck so go with what suits your taste.

[youngrodder]

Looks really good. I like the overall color and rust/patina. Well done. Personally I would run some large rounded premade fenders. Most of these trucks are more rounded in nature and lend themselves to round tubs.

Example
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...SABEgJnRvD_BwE

Marc

[6DoF]

i don't disagree with your thoughts on the fenders, that's similar to what i started looking at. when push came to shove though, these were free from leftover CORTEN again, and match the tunnel/doghouse i built in the cab.

if they bug me, it wouldn't be that hard to swap out later. the bed structure and floor wouldn't change, and i plan to cut the bed side for tire clearance in a tight arch too. just swapping that wheelhouse.

[6DoF]

last night was busy ... got the rear bed side supports in and they worked amazing. that bed is SOLID now. i'm actually getting excited for the body work to build a tailgate. i'm torn between stitching 2 re-pop together or building one from scratch that'll open level with the bed floor. i'm leaning that direction currently.

got he tail lights installed, but not wired yet. they weren't fitting well down low with the fender crammed against the bed side upright ... then i found the exact spacing and and angled holes again up top, with a hole to run wires from already there. they just bolted on, kinda felt like a sign. up higher on the dropped truck will also be easier for the other idiot drivers to see.

chopped up the 2 battery tray's i had to make one bigger jobbie that will fit my new Group31 commercial battery. same battery as my 1st gen 12v truck, i do like to standardize. pretty sure it will actually fit on the outside of the frame behind the passenger tires with easy access by just popping off the little bed floor square back there. thinking about how to make that section quick disconnect too.

the sunrise over my barn build this morning just made me stop n look at it. i'm getting freaking excited for the space!

[Jason 56]

I like it! Would a fleetwood tailgate be wide enough? Just a thought

[6DoF]

i'm now trying to find a tailgate to cut up and steel the embossed CHEVROLETE from to fab into a custom tailgate. i really want it flat with the floor the way it should be.

got the bed sides cut to get the duals back on ... then i had to put the tractor back together and mow, i hate mowing ... stupid grass. i actually had hope that i might drive it to work this week, but that's out. maybe next

[6DoF]

new battery tray is all buttoned up, way better placement than before. i do want to make a little mud flap though to keep spray from the tire from being a direct hit. i also actually think it spins the motor faster with the single group31 than 2 group34 batteries.

they backfilled the barn yesterday, so naturally i went for a photo op! and immediately got stuck. but i freaking love these pictures.