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#1 |
Senior Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 8,356
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
It was a beautiful morning as I escorted my bride to the refuse site so we could offload the nuisance tree I cut down yesterday. The temperatures at noon were in the low 70’s, so I decided while she and our daughter did yard work, it would be a great day to install the chrome rear window bead lock I picked up last winter.
I told her, if it goes as well as when I put the black bead lock in, it shouldn’t take more than 10 minutes. First order of business was detaching the bed cover and pulling it back a few feet for working clearance: ![]() It took about 3 seconds to probe the seam and pull out the black bead lock in perfect condition. I started on the chrome version using the aftermarket accessory tool and Windex for lubrication. After 30 minutes and having only turned one corner, I realized the Windex wasn’t working and switched to Armoral. That worked much better, but the tool was virtually no help at all. I gave up on that and started using a smaller version of the hook tool I used to install the windshield. That went much faster, and the entire bead lock was installed within another 30 minutes. I stood back about 10 feet and admired the sharp appearance of the chrome stripe around the window. The seam at the bottom was undetectable, and all the corners were flat and wrinkle free. I decided to wait on taking pictures until after my wife had removed all the wrinkled clear tape left over on several random inches of the chrome area. I “assumed” it was some form of clear carrier tape that held the protective blue film in place. It wasn’t. It was actually wrinkled up chrome surface finish. It was very strange, because it didn’t look like chrome, it looked like transparent tape. Attempting to remove the wrinkled film with tweezers saw the chrome finish go away right along with the wrinkles. Seeing the results of the first area, it was concluded the project was a failure and there wasn’t any point in removing the rest of the damage. Here’s what it looked like from a few feet away. Note the blotch at the left side: ![]() And here’s what it looked like close up. I was trying to capture an image of the wrinkled clear material, but it doesn’t show up in any of the photos: ![]() So it was unceremoniously ripped back out, and the old black lock bead reinstalled. The old one did indeed go back in without any effort, using the bead lock tool. So as I told my wife in the beginning, the black bead lock took no time at all. It probably didn’t even take 60 seconds. It ended up being a little over 2 inches too long, so rather than cutting it off I joined the two ends and then spent a few minutes working all the excess back into the groove. It should remain nice and tight, just like it was before. So there you have it. At one brief point in history my truck actually had chrome rear window trim! ![]() This was certainly a disappointing adventure. I could have invested all that time doing something that resulted in a productive outcome, but I couldn’t know that in advance. I really like the way the trim looked, but it is very hard on the hands (not good for me) and having it turn out ruined does not inspire me to make another attempt. Come to think of it I really like the look of the black gasket! Ya, that’s the ticket! For anyone else doing the chrome bead lock install on their truck I have a few suggestions. Use a better lubricant than Windex to start with. Armoral worked okay, but something like Dove dish detergent in a squeeze bottle would probably work just as well, and be easier to clean up. I recommend not using the aftermarket bead lock installation tool. It runs the black bead lock into the groove in nothing flat without problems. But the chrome bead lock version is so stiff, I’m reasonably certain the tool is what damaged the chrome surface causing the wrinkling. In addition, it just didn’t help insert the lock into the seal cavity. What worked better was pushing either half of the lock into the groove, and then lifting the opposite flap over the bead with the hook tool. This went much faster and had very little of the lock popping out after insertion. When going around corners, tuck into the inside of the corner first, and then work the outside flap of the window seal over the lock bead. Having a third hand to apply firm pressure to the face of the lock when going around corners is much easier and more productive.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Rochester, KENT
Posts: 10,528
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Pity about the bead Mark.
I restored a '63 VW Beetle years ago and when I replaced the rear glass, I also found a NOS rubber and trim.... the chome trim was a pain to fit, but made a difference. Maybe you will find a plan B to try again some time.
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MY BUILD LINK: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...585901]Redneck Express - 1966 C10 Short Fleetside MY USA ROADTRIPS http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/...2018-humdinger IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM MATE. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Searcy, AR
Posts: 4,203
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Gotta admit, I like the chrome bead, but after reading about your "fun" I think the black is the way to go... Always fun checing in on ya no matter what the outcome. Keep up the Great Work!
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DON Proverbs 27:17 ![]() US Air Force Retarded errr Retired My '65 Stepper Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=533920 My '60 Rusty Patina Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...66#post7402266 My '72 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post7204359 SOLD |
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#4 |
Rollin' Old Skool
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 5,371
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Such a bummer about the chrome bead! I agree that it did look nice. A complete engine swap with relatively no issues whatsoever. Then your Mooneyes sticker washes off, & chrome on the rear window bead flakes off. It's the little things that'll drive you crazy!
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_____________________________________________ Phillip My Build threads: 1966 Chevy C-10 "Black Betty" shortbed, fleetside, BBW, 327 V8/ Powerglide (under construction) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=betty 1997 Chevy Tahoe, 2dr/2wd, mild custom (Daily driver) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601142 Pics: '66 C-10 https://flic.kr/s/aHsjHWD4h9 '97 Tahoe https://flic.kr/s/aHsjGZ7wKP '93 C-1500 https://flic.kr/s/aHskxdpdnQ '88 S-10 Blazer https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYGx4Md Previous Rides: 1993 Chevy S-10 ext. cab, 4.3L, 4/5 drop (Sold) 1993 Chevy C-1500 short/step Retro-Rod (Sold) 1988 S-10 Blazer 2dr/2wd mild custom (Sold) |
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#5 | ||
Senior Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 8,356
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Quote:
I like posting every result, good or bad. I’ve learned as much from the problems others have experienced as from their successes, so I try to return the favor and just be truthful no matter what the outcome. Hopefully someone else benefits from my screw ups. Quote:
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Searcy, AR
Posts: 4,203
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
[QUOTE=markeb01;6082049]
I like posting every result, good or bad. I’ve learned as much from the problems others have experienced as from their successes, so I try to return the favor and just be truthful no matter what the outcome. Hopefully someone else benefits from my screw ups. I need to slow down and take a cue from you and make a list... While mounting my engine and tranny, I had to make a run to the parts store for some fasteners. I had pulled a bolt that attaches the trans mount to the trans for the correct threads to get the bolts to attach to the crossmember, and due to impatience or whatever misfiring occurred in my brain, I had the crossmember bolted to the trans mount then realized I had an extra bolt... ![]() ![]() ![]()
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DON Proverbs 27:17 ![]() US Air Force Retarded errr Retired My '65 Stepper Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=533920 My '60 Rusty Patina Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...66#post7402266 My '72 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post7204359 SOLD |
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#7 |
The 60-66 GMC/Pontiac guy....
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Apache Junction, Arizona
Posts: 1,306
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Thumbs up Mark
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![]() Building Genuine Pontiac Firepowered cars and trucks for several decades. ![]() Why Pontiac?? That's just me daring to be different. ![]() Projects.. 63 C10 Short Wheel Base fleetside (The Pro-Street) currently under reconstruction. 440CID 2X4 Pontiac ![]() |
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#8 |
Senior Member
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Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas
Posts: 1,923
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
yeah, i don't think they're making that chrome bead as well as they used to... whoever they is. i had just the same experience before and no matter how careful you are, the shinny part just flakes off.
bummer mark... but it did look good enough for another shot. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Selkirk Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,141
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
to bad the chrome did not work out the way you wanted ..it did add some flash to the window
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,771
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Very disappointing to be sure. My Mom always told me to look on the bright side (not always an easy thing to do).
So the bright side, hey, how is the new engine running, would love to see some more in dash rollin' down the road video....
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Craigerrr My build thread, CRGRS 66 Winter Build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...09#post5638709 |
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#11 |
Registered User
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Location: Rathdrum, Idaho
Posts: 1,135
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Hi Mark that is a bummy deal with the chrome separating from the bead like that, sometimes Murphy's law applies. I wonder if the windex or armorall had any effect on it lifting like that? If the windex had ammonia in it that could be what happend as it allowed the chrome film to lift. I know the stuff with ammonia will make clear plastic cloud up so you can't see through it [I sprayed it on a speedometer lens once it was plastic] When I did my window i had the shop warmed up to about 70* that bead comes rolled up and I straightened it out with Judy's hair dryer set between median & high. I used mild dish soap in a spray bottle to help lube it, and worked it in slowly re-warming the bead the bead when it felt stiff and tried to curl back up. Took me about an hour+ cause I move slow these days. That could be what happend w/ammonia, could be mfg. defect, long shelf life or other possibilities. Oh yeah I took the protective strip off when I first warmed it up...Vernski
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#12 | |||||
Senior Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 8,356
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
I read a quote somewhere to the effect – “You aren’t defeated when you lose. You’re only defeated when you quit”. Same thing they taught in Marine Corps boot camp. I’ve already ordered a new chrome lock bead. I’m not very tolerant of being defeated by an inanimate object!
Quote:
[quote=Ta2Don;6082503] Quote:
Since my truck was also my daily driver, most work had to be done on Saturday or Sunday, and it had to be ready for work on Monday. I looked at it like surgery. Once I sliced into the patient, there could be no stopping until it was completely sewn up and ready for service. Failure simply wasn’t an option. I found that planning everything out ahead of time allowed me to collect up anything I might have overlooked. It was later I realized how valuable the checklist was, because I could keep a copy on the bench and keep checking off steps. Every now and then something would jump off the page that I forgot several steps ago. I live right in town now, so the distance isn’t such a problem, but now the lists are force of habit that I’ve come to depend on. Quote:
Quote:
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I think you’ve established the answer. The length that did not get manhandled with Windex and the accessory tool came out perfect. Even the joint at the bottom turned out perfect. Next time I’ll try it with soap and my hook tool. If that also fails, I really will give up and leave it black. But it’s better than 50/50 it can turn out looking good. So there is another attempt on schedule in the near future.
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#13 |
But Found Her 25yrs Later!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 10,525
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
I need to poke my head in here more often.
I hadn't realized you had pulled the engine. Fun Stuff!
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I lost my 65 - Found it 25 years later: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=426650 66 C20 Service Truck: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=428035 |
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#14 |
Senior Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 8,356
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
That's the problem I have. There is so much going on I just can't keep up with all the activity on other build threads. And if I take a few days off to work on my own stuff I really get behind!
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#15 |
Senior Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Here’s a tiny little video clip of us leaving our daughter’s place yesterday. She captured the moment on her cell phone, so the video quality is rather poor. I need to reset the electric fan as it is coming on too soon, and just about drowns out the rest of the audio:
http://youtu.be/4M4EUSce7fo
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Searcy, AR
Posts: 4,203
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Love the sound of that new engine!!!
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DON Proverbs 27:17 ![]() US Air Force Retarded errr Retired My '65 Stepper Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=533920 My '60 Rusty Patina Build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...66#post7402266 My '72 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...59#post7204359 SOLD |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Selkirk Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,141
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
almost sound like you put a blower in it
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: fayetteville nc
Posts: 10,338
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
I didn't have any issues w/my chrome lock strip. Was installed last year and still looks great. I wonder why yours did that. Mine was installed in late summer or early fall and I din't heat it up. Just unrolled and installed. Also...vents arrived yesterday. Will get postage to you this week. Thanks again.
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1963 Short bed step side SBW 427 big block and borg warner T-16 HD 3 speed manual http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=519869 1963 Short bed fleetside BBW 348 1st gen big block w/Powerglide http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=619024 1964 Short bed trailer |
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: .
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Nice sounding truck. Tough and ready to git it!!!
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#20 | |
Senior Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 8,356
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
We’ve been having so much fun since the new motor went in. The idle really sounds tough, and the Pete Jackson noisy gear drive really screams now. I’m not sure why it’s so much louder than before. The only two changes I made was to really close up the camshaft end gap and provide more clearance between the power gear axle and the engine block.
I don’t really know what the clearances were in the old engine, but when first installed in the new engine the camshaft thrust bumper was nearly 1/8” from the back of the timing cover. It was supposed to be between .005 and .010, so I set it at .010. Perhaps this is causing the timing cover to act more like a diaphragm speaker. Again I didn’t check how they fit in the old engine, but when the idler gears were installed in the new engine, there was zero clearance between the front cover and the idler gear axle on the front, and zero on the back against the block. The gap called for was between .015 and .065. I kept it tight at about .015-.020. It wasn’t real easy to measure as the block is not flat in that area. In any event, whatever I did turned it into a real screamer. I’ve been driving behind a Pete Jackson noisy drive since about 1984, and people stopped turning heads many years ago. But now, we have guys, girls, and old ladies turning to look at the truck. Between the cam/exhaust and the gear drive it really commands attention. We’re planning a day trip this weekend, and it’s forecast to be in the high 70’s. One feature of the AFB/Edelbrock carb I’ve never been thrilled about is the hot-engine-soak flooding. I’m running a 180 degree thermostat and when the engine is turned off on a hot day the intake manifold can soak up to 215-220 (or higher). This boils the gas in the carb and makes hot restarting difficult. So last night I finally installed the Edelbrock heat isolator plate under the carburetor. It’s been hanging on the garage wall for a couple of years awaiting longer studs. It’s the orange spacer under the carb shown below: ![]() ![]() ![]() Driving today the manifold soaked up to 205 after sitting for about 10 minutes, and the carb didn’t care at all. It just fired right up. It was a pretty simple swap, requiring longer studs and fabrication of a longer connection from the cruise control cable to the throttle arm (which I’ll be finishing tonight). The hard line from the fuel pressure regulator to the carb was also replaced. The choke, smog and power brake vacuum hoses, and throttle linkage required no modifications. Also the new back window trim showed up yesterday. I’ll give that another try when the weather warms up, which may happen this weekend. Quote:
And I think the chrome window bead was ruined by using Windex. I think Vernski got it right when he suggested the ammonia in the Windex may have eaten the plastic. Next attempt I’ll be using Dove dishwashing soap instead!
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#21 |
Rollin' Old Skool
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 5,371
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Glad ya'll are enjoying the new engine & it's beautiful noises.
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_____________________________________________ Phillip My Build threads: 1966 Chevy C-10 "Black Betty" shortbed, fleetside, BBW, 327 V8/ Powerglide (under construction) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=betty 1997 Chevy Tahoe, 2dr/2wd, mild custom (Daily driver) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601142 Pics: '66 C-10 https://flic.kr/s/aHsjHWD4h9 '97 Tahoe https://flic.kr/s/aHsjGZ7wKP '93 C-1500 https://flic.kr/s/aHskxdpdnQ '88 S-10 Blazer https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYGx4Md Previous Rides: 1993 Chevy S-10 ext. cab, 4.3L, 4/5 drop (Sold) 1993 Chevy C-1500 short/step Retro-Rod (Sold) 1988 S-10 Blazer 2dr/2wd mild custom (Sold) |
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#22 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Somewhere In So. IL.
Posts: 408
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Mark, it's all your fault ...
![]() ![]() It's your fault that I've decided to put my noisy Pete Jackson in my engine before dropping it in my truck. It's a 383 with a TPI based fuel injection unit. Everybody says it'll mess with the knock sensor. Some guys on a 3rd gen Camaro board are running gear drives and tune their own chips. Seems the gear drives don't have any negative effects on the knock sensor. When I had my engine rebuilt, I decided to go with a double roller chain just in case and the PJ is quietly sitting in a box on the shelf. I ran a PJ noisy on a 69 Camaro I had that was carbed for years and had no negative experiences with it. So, it's your fault that before the engine goes in the truck, I gotta drop the pan and pull the balancer, then the timing cover, dig Mr. Jackson back from his slumber on the shelf, and recruit him back into service ... THANK YOU !!! I'm not sure I could've been satisified without it anyway ... I've looked over your build many numerous times and you have inspired several ideas I'd like to incorparate ( okay, I'm gonna steal your ideas !!! ... ) into my build. John Deere Blitz Black paint above mentioned gear drive I now have the stainless windshield trim coming from a board member guess the chrome bead on my back window will see my truck too Who knows how many other ideas I've gotten from you that I've completely forgotten who's truck I've seen them on. Thanks so much for the attention to detail you show, the excellant documentation, and the contribution you give so willingly. ... and one heck of a beautiful truck !!! Doug |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: fayetteville nc
Posts: 10,338
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Ok, thanks again Mark.
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1963 Short bed step side SBW 427 big block and borg warner T-16 HD 3 speed manual http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=519869 1963 Short bed fleetside BBW 348 1st gen big block w/Powerglide http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=619024 1964 Short bed trailer |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Smithfield rhode island
Posts: 722
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Truck sounds great Mark!
![]() As far as your rear window chrome I use spray way glass cleaner and is ammonia free works great for glass chrome stainless...and paint actually and I tend to use it while detailing interiors as well...just my 2cents ![]() Posted via Mobile Device
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#25 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Tacoma, WA
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
Quote:
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