1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Elder Rogue

Hummmm,,,,,

Going to take a wait and see on how this comes together.

This could be shear madness or pure genius.

It can either way.................

[99 to Life]

digging those headers

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

digging those headers

I was never really happy how the exhaust crowded the starter and master cylinder. A guy posted a picture of these on Facebook and I liked the idea. They were cheap enough ($179.00) from Speedway, so I thought I would give them a try.

A local truck (Gene, 1949 GMC) has a similar set up with cut outs. Might try to use his set up as inspiration, but not 100% sure. Love the hole in the fender......but I do not want to copy him on that.







Originally I was hoping to have the exhaust exit at the rear of the truck like the picture below. Not exactly sure at this point. Might be kinda of tricky getting the exhaust back inside the frame rails, plus I need to find room for all my air ride stuff. Lots to think about. ;-)

Might just use similar tips as below and exit out the running boards back by the rear fender.

[Coach529]

Had the afternoon available to get some stuff done.



Motor is now out and I have started stripping the leaf springs mounts and my old motor mounts.

[ptc]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I was never really happy how the exhaust crowded the starter and master cylinder. A guy posted a picture of these on Facebook and I liked the idea. They were cheap enough ($179.00) from Speedway, so I thought I would give them a try.

Hey coach, what p/n did you order on the headers? and was it vehicle specific? I know they dont specify a set of over the frame headers for AD trucks with small blocks.... but how did they fit over the frame with good clearance and everything ok? What about your steering shaft? fit ok? Ive seen them mostly for the Tri-Fives using SBC and BBC engines... but nothing else.

Thanks

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by ptc

Hey coach, what p/n did you order on the headers? and was it vehicle specific? I know they dont specify a set of over the frame headers for AD trucks with small blocks.... but how did they fit over the frame with good clearance and everything ok? What about your steering shaft? fit ok? Ive seen them mostly for the Tri-Fives using SBC and BBC engines... but nothing else.

Thanks

They are more of a generic over the frame header. Below is a description from Speedway.

These small-block Chevy 265-400 V8 headers are designed for optimum performance in a variety of 1935-1948 fat-fendered street rod and pickup applications. Perfect for Gasser-style rods and drag cars, the fender well headers have long primary tubes that curve over the frame and through the fender wells. You must cut the inner fender panels to make them fit.

They fit pretty darn good for a generic header. If they were about 6" shorter between the 2nd and 3rd bend they would be about perfect.

I have about 1-1/2" between the head and the frame rails. I am in tear apart mode.......so I did not mock up my steering yet.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-...lain,3821.html

[mikec4193]

Hey Coach

Was this not the same truck that you posted a picture maybe a month ago with a bunch of brush and sticks in the back bed???

Wow I am impressed....I come from the school...I build it once...if I don't like it I sell it...you keep changin stuff out on yours...super impressed for sure...

Tenacity I guess is what comes to mind...

love all the pictures...keep up the great work...and good luck...hope the money tree doesn't run out on you...

MikeC

[Coach529]

The rest of the front suspension install will be documented over on this thread.

Scott Danforth Crossmember Install

[99 to Life]

sweet pics. Unfortunate the front clips usually get left outside, just got mine off and sitting outside yesterday. They sure look very cool though.

[lower50's]

Coach point the dumps straight down below where he put them through the fenders. Could you run the exhaust under the frame just inside the running board brackets or outside the running board brackets?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Coach point the dumps straight down below where he put them through the fenders. Could you run the exhaust under the frame just inside the running board brackets or outside the running board brackets?

I think I will fab up something similar to the picture below. If I install the flanges on the ends at a bit of an angle I can make it easier to get the exhaust pipe back underneath the truck.

[Coach529]

Parts are starting to show up...............yippee!!

[99 to Life]

getting parts in the mail never gets old

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

getting parts in the mail never gets old

Pretty damn awesome....

[99 to Life]

nice job, making it look simple.

[Coach529]

Stellar day in the shop today. Started out with some welding lesson's for my oldest son Ryder. He showed a ton of interest, so I figured might as well get him comfortable with the machines. Got the hang of it real quick. He welded up a bunch of scrap for the fun of it.





After that Ryder helped my get the motor back in place so I could figure out what I needed to do for motor mounts. Sure if a lot easier placing that motor and tranny with an extra set of hands.

I used a set of Chassis Engineering Motor Mounts when I originally installed the SBC. I was hoping to reuse them.

http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com...2-ton-pick-up/

I was concerned about the placement of the motor above the cross member. Sure looked like the motor would be placed higher and I was nervous about having to modify the floor of the cab to make room for the transmission. Once we got the motor and tranny in place It looked a lot better.





I modified the motor mounts and motor placement is about 1/4" higher than it was before. The intake is sitting at about 3-4 degrees without the full weight of the motor on the mounts. I think the full weight of the motor on the mounts will get me within the 2-3 degree spec. If it does not work, all it will take is a small spacer between the transmission and the cross member to get where I need to be.







The next step is the pull the motor again and final weld the motor mounts. After that the cab will get pulled and I will start on install the rear IRS.

[99 to Life]

nice work, I like that protractor I'll have to look into that one. an extra set of hands makes all the difference. Iv done waaay too many two man jobs by myself. Nice to pass down some hands on skills to your kids. I'm hoping my daughter is a garage girl. shes almost 3 and loves tools already! crossing fingers.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

nice work, I like that protractor I'll have to look into that one. an extra set of hands makes all the difference. Iv done waaay too many two man jobs by myself. Nice to pass down some hands on skills to your kids. I'm hoping my daughter is a garage girl. shes almost 3 and loves tools already! crossing fingers.

It sure is fun involving the kids. All three of mine love the garage!!

The protractor is from Menards. Think they were less than $10 each.

[solidaxel]

Nice work, moving right along

How many burn holes in his new jacket!
Did his mother say anything about his new jacket!!!

Can you move the engine to the rear?
looks like there is a lot of room to get a bit closer to the firewall for some better weight transfer to the rear wheels

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Nice work, moving right along

How many burn holes in his new jacket!
Did his mother say anything about his new jacket!!!

Can you move the engine to the rear?
looks like there is a lot of room to get a bit closer to the firewall for some better weight transfer to the rear wheels

He was actually wearing one of my sweatshirts........hard to tell if the burn marks were his or mine.

The motor is in the same spot front to back as before. Once I get the HEI Distributer in there, there is not much room to move it back without modifying the firewall.

[solidaxel]

Than that is far enough to the rear!
With a solid mounted rear diff and solid trans do you still need 2-3* difference in driveshaft angle?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Than that is far enough to the rear!
With a solid mounted rear diff and solid trans do you still need 2-3* difference in driveshaft angle?

Yea you still need 2-3* from what I have read.

[Coach529]

Had a spare 30 minutes tonight before supper tonight......Just enough time to finish pulling the cab.

[Coach529]

Spent a couple hours in the shop tonight with both my boys. A little added help is always nice and it gets them out of their mom's hair so that is a bonus.

We build a cart for the cab and tucked it away for later.



I turned my little guy (Colton age 3) loose with the vacuum. Taking care of 63 years of dirt that was caked on the frame.



The rest of the night was spent cleaning up and prepping for the next phase. Boxing the frame and the IRS install.

I still have not finalized a frame finish. I got a couple quotes on powder coating today, and that got eliminated quick. Too expensive and I do not like the fact that I cannot touch it up. I reached out to some people on Facebook and surprisingly a number of them suggested Rustoleum over a good self etching primer.

At the end of the night Colton was running around the garage saying " I am Iron Man". It was a good night!!

[Advanced Design]

Cute pictures! It is great having the little ones help out.

I saw the discussion on FB and thought the frame looked familiar. We used Rustoleum on the 56 Chevy and it still looks decent. It was a quicky wire wheel off and brush on.