53 Surburban "Family Truckster"

[youngrodder]

I figured while Doug had his family Christmas taking place on Sunday that I better get out in the garage and put some work in hopes to catch up to him on the suburban build off.

What I worked on today was the rear inner wheel tubs. The idea is to narrow and raise the tubs up slightly to increase the space for big rims/tires. I barrowed this approach from someone on FB with a Suburban build using an S-10 chassis.

First order of business was to cut the flange of the tubs and some other trimming to fit between the floor structure and body. I tacked the tubs in place. Then I used poster board to make a template for the metal that I will cut to close the gap between the tub and suburban side wall.

I feel pretty good about the direction/progress of this part of the build.

Marc

[lower50's]

I like the idea of getting all the hard work done now then if you want to finish later it is just a little scuff and paint. How you leave it till then is up to you, flat primer or repair the necessary parts spots and leave it.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by lower50's

I like the idea of getting all the hard work done now then if you want to finish later it is just a little scuff and paint. How you leave it till then is up to you, flat primer or repair the necessary parts spots and leave it.

Yes at the present that is where I'm leaning. The bottom will be treated with raptor liner (bed coating) and the frame painted and detailed. That way the body wont need to come off the frame later if I decide to paint it shinny...

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Raising the wheel openings is a good idea....that is sure a limiting factor on tire diameter and drop. Good progress Marc.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Raising the wheel openings is a good idea....that is sure a limiting factor on tire diameter and drop. Good progress Marc.

Thanks Doug. I will prob also cut up into the body more and reinforce it to give the wheel a pocket to go up into. I really like the look of the factory wheel tubs. That is the only way to lay out on 20's. I have seen people use truck wheel wells. To me they look out of place.

I need to run out to the metal store to get some 18 gauge for my filler pieces.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Yes, one of my misadventures was truck wheel wells...I didn't like the look and changed back. Have fun with the fitting.

[youngrodder]

So I worked on the rear wheel well area. I have determined that it is impossible to layout an AD suburban on a 20" rim. The limiting factor with the suburban body. Specifically the top of the wheel well opening where the fender bolts to. On a truck its easy you cut out the bedsides and get mini tubs and call it a day.

After a lot of head scratching and math I determined that the only way to pull this off is to cut a recess up into the body to create a pocket to gain clearance for the top of the wheel. The mock up rim/tire I'm using is 245/45/18 giving me an over all diameter of 25.72". After cutting as much as body as I could I still was 2" short (as shown in the pic with the tape measure). This picture is at the aired out height. I decided I would cut up into the body to gain this 2". The inner wheel tubs were going to be raised up and widened anyway so that was ok. The diameter tire that I will try to fit is either a 275/45/20 (29.74" dia) which is the same as my 48 truck, or a 265/35/22 (29.3" dia). I started small with the pockets. I can always cut more as needed.

I already need to narrow my rearend so I would just get my wheel offset set up correctly so the wheels tuck up in the body when aired out. I used a Zr2 rearend and it was a good deal with posi and all but at 63" wide it is much to wide to run a rim with any kind of lip. I will look to shorten by 4" on each side. As for the fenders I decided I would eliminate the center top most mount to make room for the pocket that I will create into the body.

A lot of work for 2".....that's what she said..ha ha

[lower50's]

Yup nibble nibble bit by bit you will fit it. It's easier to take more than put some back. That is going to look killer with the big wheels.

[99 to Life]

if it were easy, everyone would do it.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Yup nibble nibble bit by bit you will fit it. It's easier to take more than put some back. That is going to look killer with the big wheels.

Thanks 50...yes I was tired of looking at it. I'm anxious to see the big rims diassapear into the body when it airs out.

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

if it were easy, everyone would do it.

Right... I'm hoping most of these changes when finished will be fairly subtle so the average person won't know what it took...the first cut was the toughest. I should geT more time on Sunday to throw sparks.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

That is a good move the get the additional drop. Gotta admit I didn't think of trimming inside the body. Like 99 said, if it were easy everyone would be doing it.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

That is a good move the get the additional drop. Gotta admit I didn't think of trimming inside the body. Like 99 said, if it were easy everyone would be doing it.

Yes, I have been thinking about it for a while. With all of the time and money invested in my PB set up I really want this thing to layout on 20's or 22's. I have gone this far, what's a little trimming and metal fab.....ha ha

Marc

[reaper71]

AAAHHHH!!! The Beauty of metal my friend!
It can always be welded back on.
It's almost there Marc, maybe 1" from looking at the one pic (running board) from touching the ground.

Mark...

[reaper71]

The post pic #757 The running board braces will hit before the board does (at least from the angle of the shot you have)

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by reaper71

AAAHHHH!!! The Beauty of metal my friend!
It can always be welded back on.
It's almost there Marc, maybe 1" from looking at the one pic (running board) from touching the ground.

Mark...

Yes, now that I have new welder there are no excuses (but lack of talent) ha ha

Originally Posted by reaper71

The post pic #757 The running board braces will hit before the board does (at least from the angle of the shot you have)

Yes Mark, but keep in mind this 18" wheel tire combo is more than 2" smaller in dia. than what I will be going with so the running boards will come up and more of the wheel will need to go up into the body. I too think I'm close that is why I'm trudging ahead. I always wanted a truck I could drive ultra low.

Thanks
Marc

[CHIZZLER]

Great progress Marc. On my burb we raised the opening for the wheel wells and used a summit kit that was ok. I looked for a rear axle that was the right length,posi, disc brakes and 5x4 3/4. Ended up getting a early 90's firebird axle. Fit perfect 3" axle tube. Paid $300.
CHIZZLER

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

Great progress Marc. On my burb we raised the opening for the wheel wells and used a summit kit that was ok. I looked for a rear axle that was the right length,posi, disc brakes and 5x4 3/4. Ended up getting a early 90's firebird axle. Fit perfect 3" axle tube. Paid $300.
CHIZZLER

Thanks. Where were you 6 months ago?? JK. This ZR2 rearend I got a great deal on but I will have some screwing around with shortening it... It was 63" wide and I will take 4.25" out of each side. Then I can figure out what my back spacing will be. It is posi and the brakes are already disc which is a plus..

Moser will shorten the housing and stock axles and re-spline them for $260.00 which I think is very fair...a 3 hr drive each way sucks though.

Marc

[Iceburgh]

Good on you......gotta bigger set than I do. I went with 18" so I don't get near the body in that area. 1 crease and buckle from driving and you aren't fixing it easy if at all.
We are pulling for you

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

Good on you......gotta bigger set than I do. I went with 18" so I don't get near the body in that area. 1 crease and buckle from driving and you aren't fixing it easy if at all.
We are pulling for you

Your just smarter than me that's all.....

Marc

[youngrodder]

The weekend progress. I determined that I would need to shorten my ZR2 rearend in order to allow the wheels to go up inside the Suburban body when aired out. I had never taken a posi rearend apart. I ran into a few snags. I will take the housing and axles to Moser Engineering. It is a 3 hr drive one way but very cheap to have them narrow the rearend plus I can reuse my stock axles as they will shorten them and re-spline them.

I will take 4.25" out of each side reducing my WMS to WMS width from 63" down to 54.5". I also took my rear 20" x 10" rims from my 48 truck to see how everything is fitting. In the second pic the top of the tire is actually up in the pocket that I made. The wheels were nice to confirm more trimming of the body was needed. I will probably only run a 9" rim in the back to provide more wiggle room because it is tight. Keep in mind at drive height I will have no issues.

Also while I had the axles out I drove out the studs so that I can get the same thread as the front hub which uses C-10 parts.

I'm getting closer but I'm bottomed out on the jack so this will have to wait until I get my shortened rearend back to confirm everything.

Marc

[RockinKees]

I think it looks beautiful!
And I haven't seen it with the fender on yet
Nice work!!

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by RockinKees

I think it looks beautiful!
And I haven't seen it with the fender on yet
Nice work!!

Thanks Kees, I held a fender up but I need to clearance the top fender flange just like I did the body to give the tire room to clear. I'm holding off cutting the fender until I validate that my plan will work first. I'm dying to throw the fenders on to see it laid out.

Marc

[oldman3]

Looks good Marc...Jim

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Looks good Marc...Jim

Thanks Jim

[youngrodder]

I spent a few hours screwing around in the garage this afternoon. I worked on the front fenders. When you run 20" rims with bags you need every inch you can get to turn especially if running inner fenders. One trick I did on my 48 is I removed the inner brace for the front fenders. This allows you to remove the mounting tab on the wheel opening flange. Then you can roll (hammer over) the lip of the wheel opening to gain more room. By hammering against wood and taking your time you can roll the edge without effecting the outside of the fender. It also seems to add a little stiffness to the fender by hammering the flange over.

I also receive my last part from Porterbuilt which is the front sway bar. Nice quality piece (as usual). The only issue is I measured the overall width incorrectly by 1/2". I will either have to modify this bar or have PB make me a new one. I still need to figure out the best approach.

Here are some pics to get an idea of what I did with the front fender flanges.

Marc