S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

IIRC version 2 are the shorter ones.

with my design the bed floor moves from below the edge angle strips to above, it's really hardly noticeable. And with my design the bed is so much more sturdy and usable there really is no comparison.

[ghettoluxury]

Thanks for all the information Skymangs. I have made my mounts based on your version 1 mounts. They’re the same height due to the to me using Dodge poly mounts that are 1/2” different front to rear.

[28TudorAZ]

On the s10 proportioning valve I am assuming the rear of it goes to the front?

[joedoh]

thats the way mine is

[skymangs]

Those mounts look real good, remember to bend the legs out 15deg. for frame strength. now I’ll have to go back and look, now I'm remembering versos 1 as the short ones.

[skymangs]

The version 1's are 31/4" above the frame, version 2's are 41/4". Version 1's ARE shorter!

[tlorber]

How did you mount the pedal? Do you have any pics?

[KRFitz]

What's everyone doing for shortening/replacing drive shafts? I need to shorten mine about 11". Would like to go one piece. I should be able to loose the center bearing. Getting quotes around $600 - $800 to make one up. Any known longer car drive shafts a guy can salvage, have cut down and save a little cost?

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

What's everyone doing for shortening/replacing drive shafts? I need to shorten mine about 11". Would like to go one piece. I should be able to loose the center bearing. Getting quotes around $600 - $800 to make one up. Any known longer car drive shafts a guy can salvage, have cut down and save a little cost?

Any 90s chevy c1500 one should work.

[Rustomod]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

What's everyone doing for shortening/replacing drive shafts? I need to shorten mine about 11". Would like to go one piece. I should be able to loose the center bearing. Getting quotes around $600 - $800 to make one up. Any known longer car drive shafts a guy can salvage, have cut down and save a little cost?

There's a seller on ebay, TADDCOM, that provides driveshafts with proper yokes, new u joints, balanced. Using your trans yoke, the shaft is 200 plus shipping. Mine was 239 total.
I ordered mine on a Thursday, received it on the following Monday. You call with your c/c length and u-joint type.

[BigFrz]

I’m building a 51 GMC with the S10 swap. I’m using a 6.0 and 8.8 rearend. What drive shaft are y’all using. Thank you. God bless y’all

[joedoh]

it really will depend on where you put the motor mounts. I use a 4.3 4l60e and the stock s10 rear and a 53" shaft works out for me, but I also move the motor back about 10 inches from stock. if I only moved it back 9, I would need a 54" shaft to fit the same.

also with an 8.8 you will need an adapter/conversion joint. If I were you I would put the engine/trans in, make sure the lowering components are installed, get the weight on the frame and measure center of yoke to center of yoke with the trans yoke sticking out about an inch and a half. that will be your length.

[BigFrz]

Originally Posted by joedoh

it really will depend on where you put the motor mounts. I use a 4.3 4l60e and the stock s10 rear and a 53" shaft works out for me, but I also move the motor back about 10 inches from stock. if I only moved it back 9, I would need a 54" shaft to fit the same.

also with an 8.8 you will need an adapter/conversion joint. If I were you I would put the engine/trans in, make sure the lowering components are installed, get the weight on the frame and measure center of yoke to center of yoke with the trans yoke sticking out about an inch and a half. that will be your length.

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[BigFrz]

I bought the dirty dingo slider mounts but it made my motor and truck look like plane. I had to make a mount plate that bolts up to the original mount and then bolt up the slider mount onto the plate to push my motor back into the fire wall. So I believe I did the same as you. Thanks. I will measure everything once I get the motor back in it
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[MiraclePieCo]

Interesting business idea, and maybe helpful for home builders.
Ebay seller is apparently building S10 chassis on which buyers can drop their 47-54 Chevy pickup bodies. Looks like he's using one of the pre-man kits, with drop spindles and 4" rear blocks, all rebuilt:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-1954-c...temCondition=4

[8man]

He had the frame built for a 1950 truck he was going to do. His project is now on hold and he is selling the frame.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by 8man

He had the frame built for a 1950 truck he was going to do. His project is now on hold and he is selling the frame.

Oh thanks. I assumed someone was building these commercially. Hard to imagine someone would get that far into it and abandon the whole chassis.

[99 to Life]

This thread is more the DIY type. That kit on that frame is from a known frame swap company. they actually do offer frames with their kits for way less than this ebay one.

[Rustomod]

Hi all. New to the site. Found this thread last year when looking for tips for my '49 panel/ S10 swap. I had already purchased the Code504 kit but this thread was instrumental in brake assembly, steering column, and many other details. I got hooked on the concept, my friend saw my '49 and wanted me to do something with his '34 dodge yard ornament. So it's on a shortbed S10 chassis with the 4.3 auto TBI setup. Started tearing his truck and the donor S10 apart in September. Just drove the build around the block last week. Brakes/cab/ running gear only to this point. I am totally hooked on the swap thing. My 49 drives like a dream at 75 down the highway. My next project is a '54 totally intact 3 window 3100 that a tree fell on back in the '60's. Been sitting ever since. It gets an old school pre-computer small block, The 700r4 from the '92 S10 donor, and a C4 vette rear that I've already gotten. Chris I sure appreciate all the tips, my '54 is getting your mounts of course. Half of the 504 kit pieces are in the corner being used as materials...bumper mounts, a couple of the crossmembers etc. Hope you are continuing well in your recovery. ...Take care,
Dennis

[Rustomod]

Here's the '49 and the 34 Dodge behind it lol

[8man]

Found a ZR2 rear end from an S10. It has 3.73 gears, a locker and an 8.5" ring gear. Has anyone used one of these?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by 8man

Found a ZR2 rear end from an S10. It has 3.73 gears, a locker and an 8.5" ring gear. Has anyone used one of these?

thats a great rear end, it will bolt right in. the only thing I dont like, and its a really shallow nitpicky thing, is how wide it is. it is 3 inches wider than a regular 4x4 rear, and that works nice for getting the wheels out there to fill up the fenders, but its about 5 1/2-6" inches wider than the front end so even if you use 1 1/2"-2" spacers on the front it looks a lot wider in the rear. its just my personal thing, it may not even matter to you, especially if you use 3" spacers on the front.

the 8.5 rear is super strong, you could run big block torque in it.

[8man]

Think we are going to run a 350 ci, 325 hp with a T400. That is kind of why I was looking into it. Saw a picture on another site, using stock wheels and it did push the tires out, but not too far that they might rub on the outside of the fender.

I had not thought about the difference in the front and back. I'm glad I asked. I have some more "thinking" to do.

Thanks guys.

[99 to Life]

Great rear end for sure, hard to find them. I have one Im putting in my 51' can't wait bc the ol' one wheel drive rear end really sucked. Guy on here has a great example of this rear end in a bagged 52'. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...448842&page=39

[oldman3]

Robert, not sure where I got this info, but I think from this site.

2 wheel drive WMS to WMS is 54.5"

4 wheel drive WMS to WMS is 59 to 60"

ZR2 WMS to WMS is 63"

It will depend on wheel backspacing, vehicle it's going into, etc...Jim