1956 Chevy Pro-Street Build

[oldman3]

Says I'm not in a group, so I can't see it...Jim

[ptc]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Says I'm not in a group, so I can't see it...Jim

Sorry Jim - -had to make it a PUBLIC post ---- try it now.

https://www.facebook.com/paul.christ...8155982304738/


thanks

[Black_Sheep]

Sounds good and rowdy Paul! Congrats...

[BAM55]

Great job it sounds really healthy.

[oldman3]

Got it now, and you are correct it sounds ANGRY...Jim

[Kim57]

Sounds great.
Kim

[Rickysnickers]

Marvelous!!!

[mongocanfly]

ABREED!!!!!!!!! sounds awsome!!!!!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

She's a mean sounding beast! Daily driver, huh?!

[mud.man.rj]

Just plain nasty, love it.
Mudman.

[Nut Case]

ptc

The national earthquake center reported a disturbance in the force about the time you started that fire breather. MUUUUUMMMMMMM

Strong work

You have 6, 2" gauges, what are they? Fuel, oil pressure, volts, and gas---


Keep on keepin on

NC

[lower50's]

Oh sooo gooood!! I love the idle when you can count the 4 on each side.

[ptc]

Thanks all.... its been a long hard row to hoe.... but its very close now. The brake pedal system is becoming a head scratcher for me because that one system has to WORK BETTER THAN ALL THE OTHERS.... or theres gonna be trouble. Im gonna take the whole assembly down to a machine shop and see what they can design that can go back in easy enough. Would a slave cylinder have enough pressure to push that booster rod ? or would it be just full ON and full OFF?

The P/S psi line is also a problem, it has blown the -6AN line off the psi side of the pump twice now. I think its blowing under higher revs. These are good Earls type hose ends, and the second time I put the hose together I made sure it bit good and hard so I dont know quite what is happening there. Just wondering if the hydroboost is messed up or something.

NUTCASE --- the small gauges are 2 1/16" dia. and they are VOLT, WATER TEMP, OIL PSI, OIL TEMP, FUEL LEVEL and ---- BOOST!




anyway ---- still working it.... Thanks again!!

[idbeast]

[QUOTE=ptc;8038156]Oh well dont need brake lights anymore cause I just broke off the brake pedal assembly.... can you say MAJOR SETBACK!!!! --- this thing is ready to run! and no brakes!!!

Remember this custom thing I made out of a Wilwood multi-res assembly to go under my floor?





Well I just snapped the end of that long 1/2" bolt off that pushed the ram into the booster. I guess Im just gonna have to take the whole thing out and start over with a different idea.... tear up the firewall again and weld in
some type of STANDARD brake pedal assembly like regular "white-folk" do..... instead of this redneck backyard mechanic stuff!

oh well.... thank God - good thing it happened now instead of out on the street!!!!

I need a vacation --- think I'll go to Florida!



Okay so this is what I essentially made (from scratch)

This is an $80 Porsche clutch lever.....

I used just a 1/2"-13 Bolt black steel and then I had to drill and thread 1/4-20 "pins" on either end for the pedal and the lever. So I removed 50% of the bolt material on both ends
and thats why it failed right at the 1/4" threaded hole on the lever end.
QUOTE]
ptc, use a pillow block bearing bolted to a plate and mount it under all 4 bolts of your bracket, to support the brake pedal shaft, you are sticking out way too far unsupported!

[MIKESAD50]

What type of hose and fittings?. I used a Detroit speed hose my and it's got different fitting and hose than a standard -6 hose
Truck is looking good and hope you can get a linkage for brakes worked out.

[MIKESAD50]

you need a fitting with a ferrell that goes on the outside of the hard line in the center.

[ptc]

Originally Posted by MIKESAD50

you need a fitting with a ferrell that goes on the outside of the hard line in the center.

Yep Im using the braided 'soft' lines that are black nylon braid with rubber internal. The fitting I found on there is a crappy Summit chinese thing... see photo below. I guess it wont hold, it just doesnt crimp the line on there tight enough I guess. Im gonna go down to Parker and have them crimp me a custom line in their hydraulic press hose maker.... done with this!


The brake pedal thingy is going to be a whole 'nother project. It was just to move it on the left side of the steering column where the clutch used to be. I should have left the clutch assembly in the frame!

Im thinking I may go with flanged bearings, like this:
and drill a hole in the frame rail and run a shaft right thru from pedal to lever, key it, bolt it. IDeas? Comments?

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by ptc

The brake pedal thingy is going to be a whole 'nother project. It was just to move it on the left side of the steering column where the clutch used to be. I should have left the clutch assembly in the frame!

Im thinking I may go with flanged bearings, like this:
and drill a hole in the frame rail and run a shaft right thru from pedal to lever, key it, bolt it. IDeas? Comments?

That should do the trick, in the industrial world it is a common practice to use the flanged bearing for support! It most likely will need a key to keep the arm in position.

[Black_Sheep]

Using flanged bearings is a great idea, you can kind of replicate the wildwood mounting plate with a bearing on each side and a transverse shaft. It's not hard to find steel and stainless steel keyed shaft online, keyed collars are available too.


http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-T...-2982-50-3.axd

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/...r-1-1563-A.axd

[lower50's]

I would go with non swivel flanged bearings. It will help keep the shaft straight.

[ptc]

Originally Posted by Black_Sheep

Using flanged bearings is a great idea, you can kind of replicate the wildwood mounting plate with a bearing on each side and a transverse shaft. It's not hard to find steel and stainless steel keyed shaft online, keyed collars are available too.

Thanks for the links! --- Yea thats kinda what I was thinking and we have all that available for our v-drive boat stuff using some pretty nice steel types. All the cav-plate rods are 1/2" dia. material and I can use some of those bearings from it. The frame already has a hole in it so Ill just have to cut the floor up a bit and make the pedal work on the end of that new shaft location.

The wilwood idea was to make the brake pedal assembly part of the cab instead of part of the frame. I guess that one will have to go back to the drawing board at some point or just use some better materials. I have a meeting with my machinist friend today, so we will see what he thinks.

[BC Toy chest]

WOW & WOW gr8 to see how far you have come along, looking forward to seeing more photos. GR8 work man.

[ptc]

Got the doors hung and aligned and now working on the latches from AutoJunk... with no directions at all. Well maybe Ill make a video on how to install them into a TF truck - I guess AutoLoc doesn't believe in support for these trucks.

Also -------waiting --------- on machine shop that said it would ONLY take an hour to rebuild my brake pedal idea the RIGHT WAY.... but that was 3 weeks ago!!!!

HATE TO WAIT!!!!! ----

But I have my day job to keep me busy, what with 2 hurricanes, high rise fire in Hawaii and Northern CAL totally in flames! --- guess Ill be busy for a bit.

[slammed57]

been a while since i checked , Its lookin awsome buddy.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wow, she's looking REAL good! I seriously considered those rims for mine and now I am considering them again! What sizes/widths are you using?