1976 Square "Simple Green"

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

Looks like this. So you have a visual. The batter terminal and the terminal from the junction block connect on the same stud on the starter. So how in the hell is connecting direct to be battery different that how I have it hooked it is getting the same voltage it is tied into the battery?
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...1&d=1451667253

I missed this post all together.
I thought your battery wire was going to the junction block and then down to the starter, not the other way around.
I'm no electrical engineer or wiz kid either, so is it possible that when your cranking the engine over that the starter is interrupting the power going to the junction block? As in is it sucking power (amps or volts) and keeping it from the junction block?
Then again, that wouldn't explain why it's stalling out after it starts. unless it's then getting full power and it "rests"?? God, I feel like I'm talking out of my ass
If you do the test of running dedicated wires to the battery and it works, verify that it's not because it needs both. If it does need both I would run a wire to the junction block and then from the block to the starter.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

I missed this post all together.
I thought your battery wire was going to the junction block and then down to the starter, not the other way around.
I'm no electrical engineer or wiz kid either, so is it possible that when your cranking the engine over that the starter is interrupting the power going to the junction block? As in is it sucking power (amps or volts) and keeping it from the junction block?
Then again, that wouldn't explain why it's stalling out after it starts. unless it's then getting full power and it "rests"?? God, I feel like I'm talking out of my ass
If you do the test of running dedicated wires to the battery and it works, verify that it's not because it needs both. If it does need both I would run a wire to the junction block and then from the block to the starter.

That's how it came from the factory. I just used the junction box as the power source for the FiTech.

[RodsGreen10]

When I get back home I am going to run it straight to battery power and ground and test it. We shall see...

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

That's how it came from the factory. I just used the junction box as the power source for the FiTech.

Sure but the factory didn't have to worry about electronics. Think back to the old factory radios that came in those year trucks.
I'm not saying that it's the problem, I'm still thinking grounding is the problem.
Just brought it up so you can double check it and in case we do get an electronics guy in here and maybe he can say something for sure. I don't want you have problems down the road after you spent all this time fixing this issue.
Plus look at it this way, if you need to run the battery cable to the junction block. You can run it along the fenderwall and down to the firewall all in black sheathing to give it a cleaner look. (trying to put a positive spin on it )

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

When I get back home I am going to run it straight to battery power and ground and test it. We shall see...

I really, really, hope that this fixes it.
Fingers crossed

[ray1970]

Ray here.

Mine would stall about two minutes after I removed the charging cables at idle.

I don't think this has any thing to do with yours.. I believe you are stalling shortly after
the start?If it starts?

Im heading out back to swap body's than maybe the chip to see if mine idles better
After I take the **** battery back out...
Maybe I will do the chip first!
I really just need to go home......NOPE....wife is sewing don't want to even enter the house when that's happening.

Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

Sure but the factory didn't have to worry about electronics. Think back to the old factory radios that came in those year trucks.
I'm not saying that it's the problem, I'm still thinking grounding is the problem.
Just brought it up so you can double check it and in case we do get an electronics guy in here and maybe he can say something for sure. I don't want you have problems down the road after you spent all this time fixing this issue.
Plus look at it this way, if you need to run the battery cable to the junction block. You can run it along the fenderwall and down to the firewall all in black sheathing to give it a cleaner look. (trying to put a positive spin on it )

Hey hey hey. I will have you know I have a top of the line 76 Silverado with all the bells and whistles lmfao. I hear ya man yes it wasn't setup for all this hitech stuff. And you read my mind about how I would route the direct battery connection.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

I really, really, hope that this fixes it.
Fingers crossed

Same here man.

[LostMy65]

Anxiously waiting to see if the direct wires do the trick.

[ray1970]

Ray here.
After 28 posts can I start calling you RG10 ?

But in all seriousness I have not read this thread post to post... I bore easily.
Have you done a voltage draw? to see if that's what your working against.
and not some built in problem..It can happen....

On the controller.....Not that's its the best meter for this.......
Go to large gauges... click down to battery voltage and bring that up....
Try to start it and see what you get..
you my have already done this...I don't know that it would mean anything. But what the hell.



Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Anxiously waiting to see if the direct wires do the trick.

It will be tomorrow evening.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.
After 28 posts can I start calling you RG10 ?

But in all seriousness I have not read this thread post to post... I bore easily.
Have you done a voltage draw? to see if that's what your working against.
and not some built in problem..It can happen....

On the controller.....Not that's its the best meter for this.......
Go to large gauges... click down to battery voltage and bring that up....
Try to start it and see what you get..
you my have already done this...I don't know that it would mean anything. But what the hell.



Ray.

Yes you can.
And yes I have.
Short so you don't get bored. Lol.

[Crushkrew]

I really hope adding direct connections to the battery positive and ground solves your problem...

I am no electrical engineer and I know you are focused on the voltage. ...but the power formula P=IxV...tells us that even with an equal voltage of 10.5 volts at the starter and the distrobution block...that if the computer or injectors are not getting enough Power. ..watts...due to not being able to draw enough amps...then no go....looking at your diagram of how you have the positive wired...I am assuming that you are using a heavy cable to the starter and a light wire to the distribution block...and we all know that when cranking that the starter can draw hundreds of amps....and maybe that is not allowing the necessary Power to get to the distribution block...and maybe a direct connection to the battery will....

I keep trying to apply the old fire hose analogy..but can't seem to articulate it....just trying to help eliminate items with you....

I do recall when I was running am old powerjection system on another car...having similar issues that were solved when directly wired to batt + & -...

I hope it works for you (and the rest of us with units on order)...so you can stop pulling your hair out....

[Crushkrew]

Originally Posted by swampbog

I missed this post all together.
I thought your battery wire was going to the junction block and then down to the starter, not the other way around.
I'm no electrical engineer or wiz kid either, so is it possible that when your cranking the engine over that the starter is interrupting the power going to the junction block? As in is it sucking power (amps or volts) and keeping it from the junction block?
Then again, that wouldn't explain why it's stalling out after it starts. unless it's then getting full power and it "rests"?? God, I feel like I'm talking out of my ass
If you do the test of running dedicated wires to the battery and it works, verify that it's not because it needs both. If it does need both I would run a wire to the junction block and then from the block to the starter.

Oh man...swamp already said what I just said....even the bit about not being an electrical engineer.....

[ray1970]

Ray here.
Can you shorten up that last post i barely got to the end.

Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Crushkrew

I really hope adding direct connections to the battery positive and ground solves your problem...

I am no electrical engineer and I know you are focused on the voltage. ...but the power formula P=IxV...tells us that even with an equal voltage of 10.5 volts at the starter and the distrobution block...that if the computer or injectors are not getting enough Power. ..watts...due to not being able to draw enough amps...then no go....looking at your diagram of how you have the positive wired...I am assuming that you are using a heavy cable to the starter and a light wire to the distribution block...and we all know that when cranking that the starter can draw hundreds of amps....and maybe that is not allowing the necessary Power to get to the distribution block...and maybe a direct connection to the battery will....

I keep trying to apply the old fire hose analogy..but can't seem to articulate it....just trying to help eliminate items with you....

I do recall when I was running am old powerjection system on another car...having similar issues that were solved when directly wired to batt + & -...

I hope it works for you (and the rest of us with units on order)...so you can stop pulling your hair out....

OHMs law lol taking me back. I will test it out. But I still think it is some bs that I have to buy a ground wire and ground it to the battery. The FiTech does not have a ground. They are counting on the system to ground out by the mounting studs. So as a added precaution they need to ad a dedicated ground wire in the system. As a customer I shouldn't have to be doing that. If I do this and it does not fix it man o man am I going to be ****ing mad as dammit!!!

[Crushkrew]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.
Can you shorten up that last post i barely got to the end.

Ray.

Sure...add wires...tell us if it works...

[LostMy65]

A read on fuel line/hoses.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...ce-fuel-hoses/

[Crushkrew]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

OHMs law lol taking me back. I will test it out. But I still think it is some bs that I have to buy a ground wire and ground it to the battery. The FiTech does not have a ground. They are counting on the system to ground out by the mounting studs. So as a added precaution they need to ad a dedicated ground wire in the system. As a customer I shouldn't have to be doing that. If I do this and it does not fix it man o man am I going to be ****ing mad as dammit!!!

I would start with just stringing an extension for the positive to battery...then negative...??

[RodsGreen10]

I will test it tomorrow and let everyone know. I am getting tired of dealing with this. I want to move on to my next install my tranny. Then my c notch. Then interior. And maybe just maybe if every goes my way which it probably won't a supercharger hahaha!!

[RodsGreen10]

I will say this never had this much issue with a carb the MSD or the Holley. But with saying that I still like the FiTech the best out of all of them if I can get this ***** to fire up cold I will be golden.

[Crushkrew]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

I will say this never had this much issue with a carb the MSD or the Holley. But with saying that I still like the FiTech the best out of all of them if I can get this ***** to fire up cold I will be golden.

Maybe you could wrap a nitrous bottle warmer around it...😂

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Crushkrew

Maybe you could wrap a nitrous bottle warmer around it...😂

Thinking outside the box. I like it! Lol.

[Crushkrew]

Just came across this on a corvette forum....I know u have good grounds...just more data...

"...... After all was running great, I started having issues starting the car when it was cold. I noticed that the display would go blank or go blue when I tried to start the engine. After talking to Ken, he said that was a ground issue. After looking around for the grounds, most had been removed (exhaust, starter to engine). Since the TBI unit uses the engine as it's ground, the injectors weren't firing. I went ahead and added some engine ground straps and it started right up. Lesson learned: Make sure you have good grounds!....."

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Crushkrew

Just came across this on a corvette forum....I know u have good grounds...just more data...

"...... After all was running great, I started having issues starting the car when it was cold. I noticed that the display would go blank or go blue when I tried to start the engine. After talking to Ken, he said that was a ground issue. After looking around for the grounds, most had been removed (exhaust, starter to engine). Since the TBI unit uses the engine as it's ground, the injectors weren't firing. I went ahead and added some engine ground straps and it started right up. Lesson learned: Make sure you have good grounds!....."

Yep swamp posted that. That is why I ordered up a set of ground straps. I think I need more grounds honestly. I feel it is more of a ground issue than a power issue. Thanks everyone for helping. We will get this figured out so this does not happen to others.