LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I was going to mention you could relocate the coils off of the valve covers, but it looks like you already came up with your solution.

Looks great!

Trying to keep it simple looking and cheap!!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Puropedo]

. The Nip is a rotary style and the veins have some type of wear coating on them and the friction is down to almost zero. If this is true I really don't know. What I do know is this one came from the pick-n-pull and was bolted to my rock crawler and used for 2 seasons with out oil ever being added and will keep a 1/4" die grinder full throttle with the motor at 1200 rpm's.
Kevin
LFD Inc.[/QUOTE]

Kevin, what pressure readings do you think you'll be getting with that "vein compressor" in your tanks? I've heard "vein compressors" are known for air volume but not for pressure, what can you tell us about this?

[ERASER5]

That model Denso is has a swash plate and double ended pistons. No veins. The valves are reed valves. Yes, the swash plate is tin coated as that is where the piston shoes ride. I have done testing on this model many times. They are very reliable pumps and hold oil very well. In fact, dumping the oil to measure it is a time consuming job. And there are millions of them in the bone yards. The Ford FS6 compressor is a near copy and there are even more of them in the yards.

Man! I miss that job!

[woodwright]

What did these pumps come on? Both the Denso and the ford one. Is there a thread somewhere about how to convert one to an air ride compressor?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Puropedo

.

Kevin, what pressure readings do you think you'll be getting with that "vein compressor" in your tanks? I've heard "vein compressors" are known for air volume but not for pressure, what can you tell us about this?

I always had it set to turn off at 180psi.

Originally Posted by ERASER5

That model Denso is has a swash plate and double ended pistons. No veins. The valves are reed valves. Yes, the swash plate is tin coated as that is where the piston shoes ride. I have done testing on this model many times. They are very reliable pumps and hold oil very well. In fact, dumping the oil to measure it is a time consuming job. And there are millions of them in the bone yards. The Ford FS6 compressor is a near copy and there are even more of them in the yards.

Man! I miss that job!

You are correct I finally did some research yesterday and I found a site with pages of info on what guys are doing. They were using the Sanden style but I think they are close to the same style of internals. I pulled this one from the pick -n-pull years ago and it still works great.

Originally Posted by woodwright

What did these pumps come on? Both the Denso and the ford one. Is there a thread somewhere about how to convert one to an air ride compressor?

Mine came off a 90 mustang 5.0L

Here is some good reading that EDFLORES posted up for me. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/o...thread-215865/

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[woodwright]

Cool. Thanks Kevin.

What about the smaller AC Delco compressors? Will they work? They are alot more compact.

[70 Suburban]

There is a oiler for shop tools that you can use that will oil inline... That should work..

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by woodwright

Cool. Thanks Kevin.

What about the smaller AC Delco compressors? Will they work? They are alot more compact.

I have only used Yorks (bulky) and this kind I have here.

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

There is a oiler for shop tools that you can use that will oil inline... That should work..

Yep thanks!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[lolife99]

Do you really want an inline oiler?
Won't that screw up the valves?

The air needs to be dry.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Do you really want an inline oiler?
Won't that screw up the valves?

The air needs to be dry.

Well that would only be part of the set up. On the discharge side you then put an accumulator tank and an oil separator before going to the storage tanks. But in the past I have never added oil or an oiler and so far so good but if you are really going to be pumping lots of air it might be a good idea.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Puropedo]

Thanks for the compressor link, it is really informative. Do you think the compressor that comes with the 5.3 vortech can do the same job? If I ever do my 5.3 conversion I wont be using the A/C, so it would be great to be able to use it for air supply.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Thanks for the compressor link, it is really informative. Do you think the compressor that comes with the 5.3 vortech can do the same job? If I ever do my 5.3 conversion I wont be using the A/C, so it would be great to be able to use it for air supply.

I am sure it would, the hard part might be the lines. Both the SD5 (typical Sanden used in the link) and also the Nipen that I am using both have easily adaptable fittings on them. So doing the air lines would be a simpler task.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Small progress but still progress. I narrowed my rear floor 4" to match the 2" per seat I had to do for wheel tub clearance. Then I trimmed the body for the tubs to slide in and tack weld. Once the body comes off I will finish the inner wheel wells and seal it all off. When aired out I have 1/2" from the top of the tire and 5/8" from the side wall to inner tub side. Also my seats clear the tub by about 5/8" as well just enough for upholstery to clear. The second row seats will need to go forward 2" so everything clears with them as well.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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[toomanytoyz]

Just a Couple of ??? for You

(1)Do u ever Sleep? Between Customer Builds, Your Own Builds, Constantly Coming up with New Improvements for our Trucks & Also Working a Regular JoB????????????

(2)Just out of Curiosty Do u always use the same tape measure When doing work with as close tolerances as u do? Not much Room for error with this type work??????

Anyhow, Many Thanks for Taking the Time to share with us, It Give's Hope & Inspiration to Many of us...............

Rick

[tdave00]

Great work Kevin. I can't believe you aren't doing this for a living yet. Mucho talent brother.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by toomanytoyz

Just a Couple of ??? for You

(1)Do u ever Sleep? Between Customer Builds, Your Own Builds, Constantly Coming up with New Improvements for our Trucks & Also Working a Regular JoB????????????

Their was a time between 86 & 90 were I slept a lot, but then again that was HighSchool Maybe if I listened more my spelling and grammar would be a bit better! Stay awake in school it is a short time that lasts for ever once you get out!

(2)Just out of Curiosty Do u always use the same tape measure When doing work with as close tolerances as u do? Not much Room for error with this type work??????

To be quite honest with you I do a lot of it by EYE and use the tape just to show in the pics what it is. Sure on important items I brake out the calipers and all but for this I was looking for things to clear and if I can get a finger in their when laid out then it should work. As for the tape I do really like the one in the pic. It is a SS model that was given to my by a Project Manager some years ago and it just never seems to wear out.

Anyhow, Many Thanks for Taking the Time to share with us, It Give's Hope & Inspiration to Many of us...............

Your very welcome, Now keep in mind I go through a lot of others builds on here and find cool tricks all the time as well. We all learn from each other.

Rick

Originally Posted by tdave00

Great work Kevin. I can't believe you aren't doing this for a living yet. Mucho talent brother.

I have a few other build ideas I want to get done first and on the show circuit before going full time but it will be in the next few years.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[my67chevytruck]

great progress Kevin!

[LOW DOUGH]

Lookin good Kevin. I really like how you are using the newer seats and floor. It is neat that the second row will fold down.

[Rokcrln]

I did a bit more work on the rear floor. I shaved about 1 1/4" off the under side of the floor where it was limiting my mounting height because it sitting on the rear diff tube work. I then plated it with some 1/8" steel for reinforcement. Now by doing this my rear floor will only be 2 1/4" higher then stock but still able to lay out on a 31" tall tire

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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[SkullCandy]

So what's cheaper.. Buying a Brand new tahoe or building one with a classic body style?


Very nice!!!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by SkullCandy

So what's cheaper.. Buying a Brand new tahoe or building one with a classic body style?


Very nice!!!

Buying a new one with every option and real high interest rate's! I figure I have close to $10k just in the rear suspension, parts and labor.

Did some more work today on the passenger side wheel tub. Now I just need to make one to match for the drivers side.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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[6772owner]

That is just amazing craftsmanship, keep it up, I wanna see that thing in paint!

[Rokcrln]

Thanks it has been fun (at times) but now I get to figure out where and how to put shocks on the rear. I need 9" of travel so the over all length will be about 23". My plan is they will fit between the wheel tub and floor just behind the second row seat. I will add to the front of the wheel tub to incorporate them in once I figure it all out. I wanted to get the seats and tubs in first to really see just how little space I have to work with. Should be fun

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[BlueJeep]

How did you do the lip at the bottom of that filler panel? Is it a angle bent in the brake, stretch/shrink, then welded on or how did you get it like that?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

How did you do the lip at the bottom of that filler panel? Is it a angle bent in the brake, stretch/shrink, then welded on or how did you get it like that?

No it is all one piece that was done in a power bead roller I have for building car bodies. Very expensive machine but you can use it for little things like this. Just makes for a better finished look even know it will all be covered in the end.

Kevin
LFD Inc.