How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

[brn agn]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

The issues I was having yesterday were excessive body roll (or sway) and just a general sloppy, uneasy feeling overall. I attribute this directly to the lack of anti-sway bar.
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I have the same problem on my 4/6 static drop truck. I have a sway bar sitting in the corner of the garage. I just need to order bushings and slap it on.

[darkhorse970]

I've run an ECE 4/6 drop on my '63 w/o a sway bar for about 10 years now...I'm looking forward to the improvement after I bolt one on. It has never handled bad on the street or highway, but will certainly feel "sportier" with the sway bar.
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[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by brn agn

I have the same problem on my 4/6 static drop truck. I have a sway bar sitting in the corner of the garage. I just need to order bushings and slap it on.

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

I've run an ECE 4/6 drop on my '63 w/o a sway bar for about 10 years now...I'm looking forward to the improvement after I bolt one on. It has never handled bad on the street or highway, but will certainly feel "sportier" with the sway bar.
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Wholly crap, dudes! Bolt 'em on. The difference is nothing short of dramatic. I've heard it time and again here on the forums, but having experienced it first-hand today, I'll tell anyone who will listen: bolt on a front anti-sway bar- it will change your truck drastically for the better!

Can't have an update without pics, so update coming soon
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[gringoloco]

Today was Operation: Install Sway Bar. This is the Porterbuilt piece, specially made by and drop shipped from Addco. For a bolt-in piece, it fought me the whole way. This is probably mainly due to temporarily using it with my factory control arms and steering linkage instead of the R&P/tube arms of a Dropmember.

Due to the completely lackluster instructions included, I had to look up other's installs online. Seems there has been a change in the parts supplied with the kit. The main issue I had with it was the length of the end links. I just could not find a way to make the 10" long supplied links work without hitting something or being in a bind, so I went down to Lowe's and picked up a couple of grade 8, 5" long, 3/8 bolts and deleted the spacers from the equation. Problem solved. Nate or Dave may chime in and tell me I'm dumb, I just couldn't figure it out

Also, I had a little heartache with the way the frame bushings fit before I torqued them down--the flat backing plate of the bushing bushing ended up right where the frame horns curve. Once I tightened them up, the bushings and frame contoured to one-another, but it seemed to compress the bushings too much. Everything still works well, it just didn't seem as well thought out as it should be. I do like that they are tucked up out of harms way when mounted without frame brackets, though.

Lastly, the kit was shipped with only grade 5 hardware and no washers. Personal preference, I upgraded to grade 8 with flat washers and nylock nuts. The finish on the bar itself looks nice, but is already beginning to chip and flake...

[lolife99]

Are you going to have to move the bar again when you install your new a-arms?

Just wondering if the bolt-on brackets you installed on your stock a-arms,... will be in the same place as the tabs on the PB arms?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Are you going to have to move the bar again when you install your new a-arms?

Just wondering if the bolt-on brackets you installed on your stock a-arms,... will be in the same place as the tabs on the PB arms?

I located the frame bushings in the same place as the instructions on PB's site and what I've seen in others' posts, so hopefully not I think, due to the design of the tube arm's lower mount, that I may need to use a 1" spacer and longer bolt. Luckily, the longer ones not used up front appear that they will be perfect for mounting my Camaro bar out back...

[gringoloco]

Here's final install after dropping 'er on the ground and final torquing of bolts. Overall, I'm fairly happy with the install..... after making the necessary modifications.... I guess I just figured for a $250 sway bar, that I would not be left guessing at how to properly install the thing, have to upgrade hardware, replace parts, and have the coating flaking off before I even drive it...

Never mind my 'battle scars' on the LCAs--they'll be replaced soon enough

I am VERY happy with the handling after installing the bar. HUGE difference from not having one at all yesterday, though I can't really tell the difference from the GM 1.25 bar I had in there before, but at least this one will work with my PB arms...

[gringoloco]

As you probably noticed in the other pics (and pointed out by LoLife), the bar came with these handy little 'L' brackets, that due to lack of appropriate instructions, I assumed were there to adapt the bar to my stock arms, so that's what I used 'em for Just centered it up, measured and drilled a hole for mounting.

The last two pics are everything loosely mounted before dropping the truck down for final torquing.

[lolife99]

The "L" brackets are used exactly the way you installed them.
I bet it drives alot nicer now.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The "L" brackets are used exactly the way you installed them.
I bet it drives alot nicer now.

Man, night and day vs no bar! No 'seat of the pants' diff that I can tell from the 'old' bar, though...

[gringoloco]

One of the things installing this bar did was allow me to isolate the feel of the new steering gear and let me tell you, this thing is GREAT. Kudos to RedHead Steering Gears. My old, LAPS rebuilt box was heavy feeling and made the PS pump whine, moan, and complain constantly. The on-center feel was poor and I could never get the alignment quite right.

With the new box installed, the steering feels lighter than before, but very controlled. It has a good on-center feel, but man, when you tell it to turn, it's going where you point it! The pump is now as quiet as a dead mouse, the tie-rod ends are even on both sides, and MY TURN SIGNALS CANCEL!!! Sorry for 'yelling', but that is COOL to me.

Coupla pics, though you guys have seen steering boxes before. Nice, high quality fit/finish on this piece. I used 73-87 style over the framerail hoses and clamp to keep things tidy. I'm ready to get to the brakes so I can clean up the lines and combo valve ugliness...

[darkhorse970]

Good write up,but I hate that it had the issues.
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[Bennett68C10]

Nice job on the sway bar install, I switched over to grade 8 hardware as well. Wasn't comfortable with the grade 5 that came with it. I did however use a 5" bolt with the spacers to mount the bar to my tubular arms. I also bent the mounts to match the frame where it bends so it wouldn't bind up the bushing.

Glad to hear you like the redhead steering box, I'm definitely going to look into it. Did you say you got the quick ratio box?
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[gringoloco]

Thanks! I may stick with the 5" links, but it looks like a 6" w/ 1" spacer will do the trick with the tube arms, as the mounts are lower. We will see soon (arms deliver tomorrow). Still not sure what they intended the 10" links for, but I'll put 'em to good use out back...

The RedHead gear is NICE. I'm curious to see what it's gonna feel like with all new, tight steering linkage (pitman, idler, tie-rods) and the forward arms. Yes, I went with the 'quick' ratio. It is approx 3.5 turns lock-to-lock vs stock 4.5, but does not limit turning radius. My spindles contact the steering stops on both sides, something it never did with the old, variable ratio box. Yeah, the RedHead is twice the money of an LAPS rebuild, but it's at least twice as nice and $100 less than their nearest competitor...
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[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Thanks! I may stick with the 5" links, but it looks like a 6" w/ 1" spacer will do the trick with the tube arms, as the mounts are lower. We will see soon (arms deliver tomorrow). Still not sure what they intended the 10" links for, but I'll put 'em to good use out back...

The RedHead gear is NICE. I'm curious to see what it's gonna feel like with all new, tight steering linkage (pitman, idler, tie-rods) and the forward arms. Yes, I went with the 'quick' ratio. It is approx 3.5 turns lock-to-lock vs stock 4.5, but does not limit turning radius. My spindles contact the steering stops on both sides, something it never did with the old, variable ratio box. Yeah, the RedHead is twice the money of an LAPS rebuild, but it's at least twice as nice and $100 less than their nearest competitor...
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I'm an idiot I meant that I used 6" long bolts for the end links not 5" and moved up to 3/8" grade 8 hardware. Mine came with 5/16" grade 5 or so and I didn't feel comfortable with that.
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[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

I'm an idiot I meant that I used 6" long bolts for the end links not 5" and moved up to 3/8" grade 8 hardware. Mine came with 5/16" grade 5 or so and I didn't feel comfortable with that.
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Agreed on the bolts- I bumped up to 3/8" grade 8, too. Sounds like my end link plans will work, thanks
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[Portmod7]

Nice! I'm very interested in the Red Head box.... I've got a "new" rebuilt unit now, I may have to upgrade in the not-so-distant future.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

There are so many Awesome trucks on this site, and yours is definitely one of 'em ! You have some fab skills man !

[DURG]

[QUOTE=gringoloco;5572011]
Still not sure what they intended the 10" links for, but I'll put 'em to good use out back...



Looks like the bar is upside down. if you flip it, the 10" links might be right. Normally the bars sweep UPWARD as they go back toward the control arms.....
I need the 10" links for my Porterbuilt Touring coilover dropmember with the ADDCO bar and tubular lowers on my '65. I am still waiting for them as they shipped the short bolts with my setup.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Portmod7

Nice! I'm very interested in the Red Head box.... I've got a "new" rebuilt unit now, I may have to upgrade in the not-so-distant future.

So far, so good. I will definitely keep everyone up-to-date once all of the parts are installed. Leaps and bounds ahead of my 'new' rebuilt unit...

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

There are so many Awesome trucks on this site, and yours is definitely one of 'em ! You have some fab skills man !

Thanks! I'll probably never run with the 'big dogs', I just try to keep it simple and affordable...

Originally Posted by DURG

Looks like the bar is upside down. if you flip it, the 10" links might be right. Normally the bars sweep UPWARD as they go back toward the control arms.....
I need the 10" links for my Porterbuilt Touring coilover dropmember with the ADDCO bar and tubular lowers on my '65. I am still waiting for them as they shipped the short bolts with my setup.

Man, I tried this thing thirty-seven different ways and this is the only configuration that came anywhere even close to fitting. I can see how the 10" links might work with the steering linkage mounted on the bottom of the spindle, but with stock tie-rods, they were occupying the same real-estate no matter what I did. Hopefully it works for your setup--ultimately, it was just a couple of bolts and some swearing to make it fit for mine

[PBFAB.COM]

A little clarification on the sway bar hardware:

The 10" links are for the Touring and Mild Dropmembers.

The shorter links are for the factory x-member application.

Looks like you received the incorrect end link hardware.

[DURG]

I think he got mine!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

A little clarification on the sway bar hardware:

The 10" links are for the Touring and Mild Dropmembers.

The shorter links are for the factory x-member application.

Looks like you received the incorrect end link hardware.

I don't feel so dumb anymore--it all makes sense now

Originally Posted by DURG

I think he got mine!

I'd trade ya, but the long ones are slated for the rear sway...

[mahanian]

To maximize the mechanical advantage and minimize binding a sway bar should be mounted parallel to the ground and mounted as far out on the lower control arms as possible. Looks to me like the ADDCO bar nailed both of those. You may not feel the difference on the street but if you were on the track I bet you'd feel a difference between the ADDCO and the factory sway bar.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by mahanian

To maximize the mechanical advantage and minimize binding a sway bar should be mounted parallel to the ground and mounted as far out on the lower control arms as possible. Looks to me like the ADDCO bar nailed both of those. You may not feel the difference on the street but if you were on the track I bet you'd feel a difference between the ADDCO and the factory sway bar.

The end links do not end up as parallel as they appear, due to my 'extreme' drop, but I don't foresee any binding issues. It definitely has a leverage advantage by attaching at the end of the arm; my butt-o-meter is just not highly calibrated enough to tell the difference