Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[First c10]

Decided to get the under hood wiring routed and just think about the battery cable for now.

So had to install the radiator support and driver side wheel well.

I ran the wires from the bulkhead on the firewall down towards the steering column and down under the cowl back up to the void between the internefder and the outer fender.

[First c10]

Started string out the small groups of wires I sorted when I modded the stock harness.

I have been using molex connectors so I can just disconnect stuff if need be.

[First c10]

I started working on installing the ECM so I can finish the wiring to try and get this thing started. I need some motivation.
I used 1/8” aluminum plate to mount the under hood fuse block and ecm. I mounted the TCM relay and headlight relays behind the plate.
To mount the ECM I taped the holes on the housing of all he ECM. Not sure I have seen anyone do this. It should be fine.

I also recessed the fuse panel.

[derotoreut]

Nice idea. Should make for a clean install. You weren't interested in putting them under the seat or inside somewhere?

[First c10]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

Nice idea. Should make for a clean install. You weren't interested in putting them under the seat or inside somewhere?

Since I would have to extend every wire in the harness or purchase a new harness I decided to keep the ECM under the hood like factory but tucked down low.

The ECM is designed to be in the elements and since I don’t plan on abusing the truck in water mud etc. I figured it would be fine. My other swap I did 7 years ago is running like a champ and it’s nothing as nice as this truck will be. It was a driver.

[First c10]

Started to button up the wiring to the ECM and connect to the truck under hood wiring. I will probably have to extend the wiring to the TCM so I can mount next to the ECM.

First thing was to get the passenger wiring to the passenger side so I ran the wires under the radiator. Head light, park and turn signal wires, a/c clutch, and ECM a/c wires.

Next was to install the radiator hopefully for the last time.

Then to connect the cab wiring.... breaker, alternator wire, and headlight relays etc.

Next I will have to run my cooling fan wires to the fans. But I have a Power Probe III coming today So I can test out all the circuits before running main power to everything. (Nice to have a brother in law as a Snap-On dealer).

Last photos are of the ground straps I made and installed under the passenger side cab mount. I also ran as set on the passenger side frame to radiator support and driver side cab mount. I will be installing a 4 gauge ground from frame to engine block.

[First c10]

Today I wanted to mount the TCM. I am thinking of mounting it under the engine cover behind the the throttle body. For now I zip tied it to the fuel rail. I will make a mount if I keep it there. If I do I won’t have about 20+ More wires running to the area of the ECM(lower front driver Fenderwell)
I decided to connect the power and use my new power probe 3RZ to test all the circuits man that thing is awesome. I have to say I am veryhappy so far not one problem. Fans, fuel pump, lights, dash etc. radio and ac fan all A ok..?? Next is to get the laptop and program the ECM.

[First c10]

Been working on a few little things until my dash pad got delivered after getting upholstered. Saddle color in leather with cream stitching.
Picture is with it sitting in place. Need to get different mounting screws for the 4 locations on the interior side mounting areas.
Once this is installed I can run the ac ducts and get the instrument cluster installed. Then is time to paint the column, glove box door, and ash tray.

[First c10]

Got the dash pad installed. I didn’t want to see the screws so I found some covers. I think it looks good.

[First c10]

Now that the dash pad is on it was time to get the headlight switch back in and finish the dash.
The speaker is in, duct work is in so decided to put he new Dakota digital dash together. I plugged it in and turned it on bingo. Worked great.
Looks good and now I need to finish the upper radiator hose and I think it’s about ready to start.

[First c10]

Well I tried to start the truck and it wouldn't start. Traced it to the injectors not firing. Come to find out it was the “starter fault diagnostics” under “OS” tab in the tune that needs to be “disabled”. After that she fired right up and purred like a kitten. Even though I put a cam in it. It’s started right up and idled great. I noticed the check engine light was on. Went to push on the pedal and nothing happened. Checked the code Found code p2138 pedal reference.
First picture the code.
Seconds was the pigtail I bought that has all the wires white. WTH.
Third and forth are how the wires are laid out in the plug
I grabbed the test kit and I traced the wires all the way back to the ECM everything was good. Not sure what to check.
But as I write this I am looking at the pictures of the plug with the f _ _ _ _ A
I look at it closer and notice I think I wired it from the top down A-F which is backwards.
So tomorrow I am going to switch it. I wish the pintail plug was color coded or at least had the letters stamped on it.

[First c10]

Ok so after I disabled the last of the vats stuff. Here is the first start up video for the hulk. Ran great and can’t wait to fix the pedal issue.

Hulk first start up video

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by First c10

Ok so after I disabled the last of the vats stuff. Here is the first start up video for the hulk. Ran great and can’t wait to fix the pedal issue.

Hulk first start up video

Congrats on the first start! That's a huge milestone. You must feel good about it. Keep it going.

[landarts]

Great job on the truck, love the heavy duty wiring and the dash pad. Can't wait to see the finished project.

[First c10]

Thanks guys. I feel great. Now I have to get the pedal wiring corrected and I am pretty confident it will work.
Then it’s upper radiator hose or piping as I am going to do it in STainless.
But it’s honeydos today. Back on it tomorrow!

[First c10]

So a quick fix of the DBW pedal wiring. Since I built most of the truck with connectors I just repinned the molex connector since I had wired A thru F when it should have been F thru A.
Short video of it.
I still see the CEL on so not sure what that is. Will check tonight.

2nd start up!
Now to work on the upper radiator hose.

[DWilbur]

Cool you figured out the DBW. Sound great.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Cool you figured out the DBW. Sound great.

Thanks. I noticed in the video that my phone could not record the exhaust sound I guess it was too loud LOL

[First c10]

Started working on the upper radiator hose/pipe and thought I better get the engine cover installed. I think I am going to paint it body color.
I tacked up the stainless pipe to see if I was going to like it or if it was in the way of the intake tube. Seems to fit but had to re adjust a little. After I as able to get it tacked where I wanted it I ran out of argon. To be continued.

I was able to get the MAF mounted and connect the intake tube. What do you guys think?

[DWilbur]

I just filled my 125 bottle of argon cost me $173.00. Double the cost from last year. The radiator tubing looks great. Where did you get the intake Y pipe looks cool
Posted via Mobile Device

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I just filled my 125 bottle of argon cost me $173.00. Double the cost from last year. The radiator tubing looks great. Where did you get the intake Y pipe looks cool
Posted via Mobile Device

DW when I exchanged my bottle for another 125 cubic bottle it cost me 68 with tax. I would have bought a larger bottle but they didn’t have a larger one in stock.
Maybe worth a ride to LB for you to just exchange a bottle.

[First c10]

173? Damn. That’s bs. My bottle is the same size as yours.
I bought a corvette kit and added the 2 long 45 degree pieces. They will have to be cut down on the ends but won’t do it until the fenders and fenderwells are on.
The kits was like 38$ on eBay. I figured it was worth it to just try it. I bought the silicon couplers, SS and aluminum piping from Www.siliconintakes.com
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F223382248961
I am a little worried about hood clearance. I do have a cowl induction hood but will have to measure for clearance.

[renegade6]

Originally Posted by First c10

I am a little worried about hood clearance. I do have a cowl induction hood but will have to measure for clearance.

I am very pleasantly surprised about the amount of hood clearance on these trucks. You will probably have more room than you expect.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by renegade6

I am very pleasantly surprised about the amount of hood clearance on these trucks. You will probably have more room than you expect.

I hope so Brandon. It looks pretty cool and I don’t have any problems with it when the motor is running. No crazy fuel trim adjustments. A little lean but I think thats the cam I installed with the stock tune.

Trying to get the SS upper radiator piping built. Had to give myself the crash course in tig welding again as the last time was the exhaust I did 4 years ago.
I plan on sanding the welds down and buffing them shiny.

[renegade6]

Originally Posted by First c10

Trying to get the SS upper radiator piping built. Had to give myself the crash course in tig welding again as the last time was the exhaust I did 4 years ago.
I plan on sanding the welds down and buffing them shiny.

For being out of practice, it looks great!