1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[99 to Life]

that's awesome you got the kids out there with you. kids are so easy to mold sometimes and they need a good influence. I luv when our kids aren't on devices and using their imaginations.

as for the coating. I'm a fan of two coats. 1. a rust inhibitor like chassis save or por15. You could prolly get away with 2-3 qts. I then topcoat with a paint or a tractor paint which is an enamel. You can get a hardener to add to the enamel. all and all you can brush both on and it looks great and you can do this all for under 200 bucks.

[Cuttin up]

I second the tractor implement paint. Its on mine and dynamite probably won't take it off. Its nice because it comes either as a spray bomb or in brush on application.

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by Cuttin up

I second the tractor implement paint. Its on mine and dynamite probably won't take it off. Its nice because it comes either as a spray bomb or in brush on application.

Yes I love tractor paint !!

[youngrodder]

Nice progress Coach and for finding special jobs for your helpers...
Yes, moms need some mom time every so often so it was good you had garage time with the boys. I was out in the garage again tonight welding and touching up my fresh epoxy primer. Every time I look at a different part of the frame, I think Oh, I should also fill those holes so I know I have a lot of work before I commit to paint.

Keep at it.
Marc

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Nice progress Coach and for finding special jobs for your helpers...
Yes, moms need some mom time every so often so it was good you had garage time with the boys. I was out in the garage again tonight welding and touching up my fresh epoxy primer. Every time I look at a different part of the frame, I think Oh, I should also fill those holes so I know I have a lot of work before I commit to paint.

Keep at it.
Marc

That is funny because I was walking around my frame last night enjoying a couple beers and was thinking that I should fill all the holes.......it must have been the beer talking because that would be a LOT of work.

[99 to Life]

nice pics and welds. did you go down on that vertical weld? Those are my favorite to do. as for the frame. Piss on wire wheels, they are expensive and personally not that great. Get some 40 or 60 grit 4.5" flap wheels for your grinder, that will go a looong way. also just a cut off disc does great job too, but is loud and messy. some areas are a PIA like where the xmembers are esp in the middle of frame where the ebrake stuff ties into. those areas would be great for a blaster. I have the HF one and I couldn't get it to work, well I did for a minute which was good, then just had no luck after that. perhaps I didn't have enough tank (26gallon), I even used their blasting media. but with blasting, you gotta pick up what you can.

the beauty of the chassis saver and por15 is that they cling onto the rust, so it doesn't have to be perfect, they are inhibitors to the rust, they also are self etching to the metal.

clean shop goes a looong way man, looks great.

[Advanced Design]

That is a good looking weld! I've about sworn off wire wheels after ending up with pieces of wire in my chest, arm, legs. Plus they make such a mess. I do like the flap discs 99 mentioned.

Your shop looks good! I didn't leave mine looking that tidy tonight. Too tired.

[Coach529]

The options are:

Pay to have to sand blasted.

Buy a sandblaster and do it myself.

Do it with a flap wheel or 3m wheel.


I will call and get a quote on Monday and go from there.

I try to make a point to clean up every night.......just makes the next time soo much easier.

[99 to Life]

Its hard to find a good reliable and affordable blaster (atleast around my parts). let alone the down time and the risk of the frame being stolen. that's my biggest problem with blasting, that and the loot. I have a place that would do a frame and spray epoxy on it for dirt cheap, like couple hundred last I recall. they charged me 30 bucks to do set of rims, that is so worth it, but.... they are very unorganized and I wouldn't risk all the hours into a frame and its value, at some places.

It took me about 20 hrs if I recall to do my s10 frame, that's stripping and coating it twice by hand. I think, might have included the hours of boxing it too, I'd have to look. It was just easier for me cause I knew the frame would always be there and the build wouldn't be disrupted. But, if I could shave 20hrs off a build for less than 200 bucks that's worth it too. but then you gotta load it up and spend the time unloading it.

[LEEVON]

Call monument (headstone) and trailer companies for sandblasting quotes, they do it fairly cheap around here. I have done it myself...never again.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

Call monument (headstone) and trailer companies for sandblasting quotes, they do it fairly cheap around here. I have done it myself...never again.

I live in a 1 horse town......appears only one guy around to do it. I will get a quote on Monday.

The front 1/3 is already in good shape. I use KBS coatings on that when I did the motor. The rest is not horrible........I could probably use a wheel on it in a couple hours.

[Coach529]

Expenses to date......

[BIGglaSS]

Welds look great!

Best bet is pay to have it blasted. It may not be that expensive, just a pain to have to haul it. I bought a pressure blaster from Brut Manufacturing, through their ebay store, under $500. Took about 3 hours to blast my frame, and 3 hours to clean up the mess.

I don't recommend using a flap wheel. Before blasting, I spent a few hours cleaning with a flap wheel. The marks from the flap wheel have ghosted through the paint. In hind sight, the flap wheel was a waste of time since I ended up blasting it.

If you had considered poo15, spend an hour searching the net for horror stories of using this paint. It should not be considered a restoration paint.

Spend the time to blast your frame free of contaminants and rust. Then you will have a good clean base for epoxy or powdercoat that will last a very long time.

[FarmerSid]

BIGglass is right. Bang on! I used 36 grit Walter flap disks and they worked for about 10 seconds. The steel would glaze over like mill scale. Blasting costs an arm and a leg here so I bought a cheap HF type one. $120 on sale or so. Hundred bucks or so in bags of sand including getting the blaster to work. I didn't hardly save anything by doing it myself but I still have that POS blaster.

I wish you would reconsider not using that por or chassis saver type paints. The name themselves tells you why you shouldn't. IMO only and good luck in which ever way you choose.

[Coach529]

I uses KBS on the front of the chassis a year ago. At this point is seems like the least labor intensive and cheapest option.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html

[youngrodder]

The Frame looks great. You mention the holes in the frame. Once you remove the other factory stuff to install the PB stuff it creates even more holes....I will only fill the ones that you see. Some are covered by the PB stuff.

I liked having my frame chemically stripped (doesn't sound like it is an option for you based on where you live) because it got the frame super clean and doesn't leave the metal surface etched like when you sand blast.

I like your accounting sheet on the $$ spent. I do that kind of stuff myself.

Marc

[99 to Life]

coach, I'm sure you don't want your thread clogged up with pages of what to coat your frame with, there is tons of info out there. Would I say the best option is pay to blast and then epoxy primer. YES, but..... would I also say buy all your tools from America? YES is that feasible NO. for you its different because this is a family truck and its a forever truck. So if you want to ball out by all means do so. But like a lot of guys on here some cuts need to be made. I'v personally never heard bad things about rust inhibiting coatings, esp when top coated.

Flap discs are going to be your best option IMO if you're not blasting the frame. that and a cut off wheel. You are not going to get the surface as good as blasting, but its the next best thing, which is sometimes the pill you have to swallow on building a truck.

[Coach529]

Don't worry about clogging this thread up.....I love these discussions. I always end up learning something.

It is a constant struggle. Budget vs wants vs what is best etc.

Since this is a forever truck I want it done RIGHT.....but ultimately the wear and tear on this chassis will be minimal. I was in hurry when I did some of the rear suspension work 2 years ago and threw some cheap rattle can primer over the bare metal under the bed. It held up great with no prep.

At this point I will knock the loose stuff off and use some KBS Chassis Coat on it. I will cover that with some satin enamel. Good for another 60+ years.

[Coach529]

I have a tendency to over analyze the crap out of stuff. I am all stressed about making this chassis look perfect....perfect welds, perfect finish....when In all actuality once it is all assembled it will barely be seen..

[solidaxel]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I have a tendency to over analyze the crap out of stuff. I am all stressed about making this chassis look perfect....perfect welds, perfect finish....when In all actuality once it is all assembled it will barely be seen..

The only guy who will REALLY like it is the guy who changes the oil & filter!

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

The only guy who will REALLY like it is the guy who changes the oil & filter!

[Coach529]

Nothing huge accomplished the last couple days. I kind of butchered the relief for the rack and pinion, so I worked last night to close that up neatly. Use some 4" pipe and some 1/8" flat plate. 4" holesaw was also used......damn I need a Plasma Cutter.







I drug the frame outside today and cleaned up all the loose rust and buildup on it. It is almost ready for paint.





Tonight I drug my Thunderbird IRS into the shop and started getting it ready for install.



I will be detailing the IRS install on a separate thread linked below!!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=666720

[youngrodder]

Hardcore working outside in the cold temps. Looks like your frame is getting there. I spent the afternoon welding up more holes in my frame...

Keep at it.

Marc

[joedoh]

I called one of those soda blasting guys for a quote on coming out and blasting my frame and the inside of my cab, he wanted $300 plus $300 for the drive! in my opinion he is the one out in BFE, so I declined. but it got me thinking, and researching, and I found that northern tool sells a $70 part to let you use a pressure washer as a dustless blaster. the pressure washer requirements are pretty high so I dont think a $200 washer would work well, but if I compare the $600 one time cost of having someone come out to the ability to use it any time I want... I was ready to buy a washer and the weather went from 50s to 30s, haha. so it may be spring before I try it, but something to think about.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I called one of those soda blasting guys for a quote on coming out and blasting my frame and the inside of my cab, he wanted $300 plus $300 for the drive! in my opinion he is the one out in BFE, so I declined. but it got me thinking, and researching, and I found that northern tool sells a $70 part to let you use a pressure washer as a dustless blaster. the pressure washer requirements are pretty high so I dont think a $200 washer would work well, but if I compare the $600 one time cost of having someone come out to the ability to use it any time I want... I was ready to buy a washer and the weather went from 50s to 30s, haha. so it may be spring before I try it, but something to think about.

Interesting...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...duct_8520_8520