Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[DWilbur]

I have a smaller bottle I was going to fill and it cost almost as much so I passed on the the small one. That is cheep for the intake Y why. I will have to order one.
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[DWilbur]

I ordered the intake Y pipe. free shipping too

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I ordered the intake Y pipe. free shipping too

Hey DW this May affect you with this intake Y.
After getting the upper radiator pipe built I added antifreeze and started the truck up and let it run. I found out that the intake tube air supply to the crank case ventalation system is unmetered as it connects before the MAF.
The CEL came on and the code was for lean bank 1 and 2. Like an intake or vacuum leak.
I disconnected the ventilation and plugged it, clearedthe code and the code never came back. So I am not sure of it can be tuned that way or if I need to figure out how to connect it after the MAF.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey DW this May affect you with this intake Y.
After getting the upper radiator pipe built I added antifreeze and started the truck up and let it run. I found out that the intake tube air supply to the crank case ventalation system is unmetered as it connects before the MAF.
The CEL came on and the code was for lean bank 1 and 2. Like an intake or vacuum leak.
I disconnected the ventilation and plugged it, cleared the code and the code never came back. So I am not sure of it can be tuned that way or if I need to figure out how to connect it after the MAF.

Well I decided to put a 5/16” bulk head fitting downstream of the MAF sensor.
I drilled a hole in my MAF tube. I put an o’ring on it and connected it to the PS valve cover like stock.
Now to tig weld the hole in the aluminum intake tubing.
I will check it out with the scanner tomorrow to make sure the fuel trims look good.

[DWilbur]

That is what I did bottle exchange. I went to Ait Gas to exchange
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[DWilbur]

Last year I went to Madco welding Suply
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[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Last year I went to Madco welding Suply
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MARFAB is where I went. It’s the only place in Los Banos to exchange gas cylinders.

[7dee2]

Wow, big big progress! Good for you, digging your videos also!

[First c10]

Originally Posted by renegade6

For being out of practice, it looks great!

Thanks. I always go to slow and get the metal too hot.

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Wow, big big progress! Good for you, digging your videos also!

Thanks Brett. Trying to spend time on it each day.
How is ol Ray treating you?

[7dee2]

Amazing how much you can get done that way, looking forward to seeing your truck together.

Got just a little over 1k miles and put it in storage for the winter, currently storing our patio furniture on the bed! Getting pumped to get it out, I do love driving that truck.

[First c10]

Spring is around the corner for Utah. Time to put the patio furniture out also then the truck will be freed.

Got out the wire wheel and rotoloc scotchbrites to smooth the welds and then polish on the bench top buffer. I forgot to take a picture of it before installation but I was excited how good it turned out so I installed it.

First picture is from the driver side and the second is the passenger side.
I tried to take a picture from the front but it’s tucked under the intake tubing.

[First c10]

I wanted to add a 6° shim to rear leaf spring pack to lower the pinion as the rear shackle left tilted the pinion up and I didn’t like it. Since I was adding the shim I removed my rear leaf spring packs overload spring. I didn’t take any picture of it but wanted to update it on the build thread.
Probably dropped the rear of the truck 3/4”... well maybe 1/2” since the shim was about a 1/4” thick at the center line of the axle.

[First c10]

Decided to make a custom mount for the heater control valve. Got a chance to take a crash course in aluminum tig welding. I was able to tap the AC compressor and bolt the bracket and heater valve to it. After I mounted it I only needed two 7” heater hoses to it from the water pump.

[First c10]

I was able to build the a/c hoses today. Since I relocated the compressor on the LS with a high compressor mount the hoses needed to be shortened a lot. Oh and I used large diameter heat shrink tubing to cover the crimped ends of the a/c lines

The last thing I need is an adapter to go from standard 1/4” flare port to M10-1.0 port for the stock GM a/c refrigerant sensor. After I get it I will attached it to the other side of this tee. The other side will have the compressor binary switch.

[First c10]

I also forgot to mention I had a problem with the CEL staying on even though there wasn’t a problem. The Dakota Digital HDX gauges I installed needed a 1k resister from 12+ power to the CEL terminal on the DD HDX box. Light went away. I only had a 1.5k resister but it worked the same.
I just wanted to make sure I posted about it as I am sure others reading this thread may run into the same issue.

[First c10]

I picked up a 7/16" to 10mm AC adapter fitting (in the middle)for the GM refrigerant sensor(on the right) for the ECM to see the AC. I also picked up a binary switch (on the left)because I ordered a trinary switch when I ordered the system years ago.

I was able to get them installed and wired up. Now time to pull a vacuum on the system and check for leaks.

[derotoreut]

Is your ECM programed for the AC? And I'm curious as to why are you planning to use a binary switch and not trinary? My PCM is set up to control the fans, but I'm also using a trinary switch.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

Is your ECM programed for the AC? And I'm curious as to why are you planning to use a binary switch and not trinary? My PCM is set up to control the fans, but I'm also using a trinary switch.

I already wired my fans to come on when the ac was turned on. It works both ways right now with the pcm and the call for ac. The binary switch is only to shut off the compressor under low pressure.
How do you have your trinary switch wired?

[First c10]

Oh and I haven’t had a chance to do the programming on the pcm yet. But I do have what the stock setting are set at. I have not actually used the stock refrigerant sensor before so not sure how it is going to work.

[derotoreut]

Keep me posted on how it works for you. I haven't wired in my Vortec project it yet, but I have in the past on SB engines. The trinary gives you the low and high pressure cutout.

[First c10]

From what I know about these switch’s is A binary switch is normally closed and opens when there is too much or too little pressure in the system to shut the compressor off to prevent damage. A trinary switch contains a binary switch AND a normally open switch that can be used to turn electric radiator fans on when the pressure determines that more air flow is needed through the condensor.
When wiring the truck or more specifically wiring the main relays for the cooling fans I added a relay to turn a fan on when the ac compressor is on. This is only because I am not sure how the stock ac sensor is going to work. I hope I can remove it when the stock ac sensor is working. The stock ac sensor should let the ECM know the ac is on and to control the fans due to pressures in the ac system. It should also adjust engine idle.

[First c10]

Well as it turns out Gen IV’s only accept ac request(notify the Ecm your AC is on) only be sent through canbus. A company makes the trigger but it’s 300$ that’s BS as all it does it tell the pcm you turned on the ac compressor I wonder if Dakota digital has a bim module for it. I am going to call them about it.
As for now I think I am going to remove all the stock sensor bs. I will keep the binary switch as it does work as I tested it out today. Low and high pressure. System is wiring great. Nice and cold.

[First c10]

I decided to put the head lights I bought from a forum member in. I just leveled and the kept the buckets straight to the core support.
They are HID’s and pretty bright. The high and low beam relay setup I made worked great.

[First c10]

Well a while back I installed a catch can. I ordered it off eBay and built a custom mount to hang it under the wilwood master cylinder.
I built it to the same bracket that held the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve.
I did have to notch the plastic cover to clear the can and hoses

[72 tigger]

As usual, nice work!