It’s Just A Pickup

[70blackfish]

WOW...that was a book to read....

nice truck....

[HotRod C/10]

Great info.

[Tynee]

Subscribing to keep up with updates.

[Pegman]

Now thats some nice work great job,!

[Steve-W]

Hi Bruce, I just found your wiper section on page 22...now I definetly need to read the other 32 pages great stuff!

[9teen69]

Super nice truck! I've learned so much - can't wait to learn more.

[solidaxel]

Are the spare tire mounts the same from a 55 first series pick up the same as the ones you are showing?
There are two left over ones on the shelf and one drivers side fender from some builds past.
Thanks for the canister info, as I need one for my LSx transplant and this info will be very helpful for my EEC system

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Are the spare tire mounts the same from a 55 first series pick up the same as the ones you are showing?
There are two left over ones on the shelf and one drivers side fender from some builds past.
Thanks for the canister info, as I need one for my LSx transplant and this info will be very helpful for my EEC system

Hi solidaxel
I do not know that the 1955 pickup spare tire mounts are the same as the 1967 – 1972 spare tire mounts. You didn’t say if it’s for a short or long bed, the long bed mount is different from the short bed. The only way you might tell is to break out a tape measure and compare the different years to each other. See post #786 on http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=32

Glad you found the canister info helpful, Remember that is just a basic EEC setup that was used in 1972 trucks as they went forward in years they just got more complicated with additional items added, the added items are not essential for an operative system but are sometimes needed for a computer controlled engine.

Good luck
Bruce

[solidaxel]

Thanks!

[Bruce88]

Hine sight is 20/20

If I had known that there had been so much interest in some of the things that I did to my truck I would have put more information into the posts on this build thread. One of the items was the spark plug wire looms, it seems every few months I receive a question about this installation by privet message or posted on this build thread. What I hope this post will do is bring together most of the information for those that are interested and layout how I approach bringing things together to get the look and function I want. I must be crazy to think I can do this, but I’ll try (smile).

First I would like to help everybody with their build, but I’m not there and don’t know what your end goal is, or your total engine/truck configuration. Your there and the only one that can make the decision on if the parts will work with your setup or if modification may be necessary to make it work or maybe you just need a different part altogether. Yes I’ve made the mistake in the past and on this build and it will probably happen in the future (buying a part that I decided not to use), I just try to hold it to a minimum. My personal opinion is if I take a part out of its package I bought it and will not return it unless it’s broken from the factory or due to shipping.

First you see a setup in a picture/catalog or maybe just in your mines eye. Then the question where do I buy that? Yes we all just want to buy one kit and install it and be done with it. I’ve found over time that one kit doesn’t have all the parts that I want or need for the look or function I want. Maybe it’s what I consider a simple thing like, panting, using a shorter/longer or stile of bolt, making an additional bracket, adding additional parts, all to achieve my end goal/look/function. So I should apologize for possibly some misleading posts where a part number is listed, you should look at the part numbers listed as the base item that I started with and then made modifications to fit my needs. Very few kits I just installed out of the box without some modifications, some with minor changes and others with major changes.

The spark plug wire looms fall into the category that the kit listed will not have all the parts seen on my installation, yes modifications have been made by me and will probably be needed by you to meet your installation requirements. For those interested in this installation please take a look back on this build to see posts concerning my attempts to answer questions (see links below) (my attempt to bring it all together)

First seen on this build and some parts listed Page 1 (post #7) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318544

First attempt to answer a question Page 5 (post #101) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=5

Another question Page 12 (post #297 - 300) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=12

Will it work with a different configuration Page 32 (post #794 – 796) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=32

I’ve received some Privet Messages that I did not include the answers in the build thread but might be of help to some in their build in regards to this installation. Names have been removed to protect the innocent (smile). Here are some of the questions and my answers.

Privet Message Question
Can you send me a web link for the ENOS CUSTOM COMPONENTS catalog? I cannot find it on their site.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I just checked the home page for (Enos Custom Components) http://enoscustom.com/index.html they use to have a link on the bottom of the page to download a catalog on this page, the link is no longer there. I did find their (Adobe Acrobat) PDF file catalog on the internet at http://enoscustom.com/images/enos_custom_catalog.pdf . I hope they’re not going out of business, they’ve been around for a long time and I’ve always had good service from them but they’ve never been that web savvy they usually deal primarily over the phone. You might want to give them a call to see if their still in business and if they have an updated catalog.

Privet Message Question
RNM-1101S - R&M billet wire looms
Question about the four wire separators you used on the rear of the engine. They look just like the ones in the kit but I can't find a part number for them... Can I buy them separate from the loom?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I’ve had this question before and I made my attempt to answer it on my build thread page 5 (post #101) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=5. I’m not sure if ENOS Custom Components is still in business their web site shows very little and you would have to call them to see.
If you go to R&M Specialties web site http://www.rmspecialties.com/ they say that (Accessory 4-hole plug wire clamp – black only) is part number A-200. On their web (where to buy) they list a number of different places to buy their parts. Another one of the places other than ENOS is Summit Racing and the A200 is on their web site for $16.97 for a pair.

Privet Message Question
Separator bracket for plug wires
I am getting ready to start making the separator brackets that you posted. I have a couple of questions if you have time.. It looks like the bracket is 1 inch where it mounts to the block and narrows as it goes up.. If you have time I would like to get the measurements on you brackets.. (From the bottom to the first 45 and then second and the overall length.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I can’t get back to the standoffs to take measurements, and I’m not going to take things apart to obtain them. When I make things like this I start with a cardboard mock up and eyeball a lot of it to determine the jog all and then determine how high the wire block needs to be to clear everything I want to clear and how high the block will need to be. The cardboard mock up saves time and wasting metal creating them out of metal. Yes the bottom area of the bracket appears to be about 1 inch square before the first bend, the upper end of the bracket appears to be 1/8 to ¼ inch wider than the block and the taper between the lower area and the upper area is done in the middle area. Once I have the cardboard mockup made I transfer the pattern on the metal cut it out and sand to finish as well as drill the mounting holes. Most of the sanding to final size is done by eye holding close to the mockup but not exact except the hole locations need to be right. Only you can determine the size that you need to clear things on your engine, every engine configuration can be different and thing you need to clear. Save yourself time and make your cardboard mockup as close as possible, you don’t want to make it out of metal to find out it doesn’t fit or work. I would just say that my pictures of the brackets are just a general guide and they fit my engine configuration and not necessarily yours.

Hope this helps you out their not that hard to make, it just takes you paying attention to what your engine needs to clear things and the desired look you want.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Where to buy parts is always changing, parts discontinued, companies out of business, best price today, and so on. As far as all the part numbers listed in this build thread you should treat them as a base that I started with and probably made some minor or major modifications to. I look at it as at least a starting point for you to build a pound for your build if you want to do something similar. You’re going to have to build your own locations of where to get your parts from your local area and on the web. This includes the simple items such as nuts and bolts, raw stock metal for brackets, and so on. I have way too many places that I use to list and some are just local and not available in your area. A good starting point is the manufacture of the kit/part if they have a web site and start building from there.

I hope this post helps in your build and understanding the information that I’ve included in many of the posts on this build thread.

Enjoy your build
Bruce

[mcm1209]

Didn't exactly read through the whole thread but I'm working on a 67 frame off and looked at all your chassis discussions. Needles to say, you sir did a job that only a few shops would do. The attention to detail is insane

Thanks for the thread and i know I will find myself on this thread countless times.

I would disagree with you on the high end shows. I don't see why this truck would not fair well in any show.

[mewddsltd]

Great build thread...thanks for all of the information

Build threads like this make it easier for the rest of us...especially like that you stayed with Gen I SBC...although the Gen III/IV engines are great I think the Gen I has proven itself AND can have almost all of the modern enhancements seen in the Gen III's and IV's

[bowcoffin]

Originally Posted by Bruce88

Clean up, clean up, and more clean up it never seams to end.

As it has been seen in previous posts on this build thread it’s mainly the new, rebuilt, or some of the plans for this build. Thought it’s about time to post some pictures of the disassembly not in the condition ready for installation.

As disassembly progresses I’ve run into some problems that where not planed for but that’s just the way a rebuild goes. It always seems to me that the clean up of part and the shop and prepping the parts for installation takes a lot more time than the disassembly or assembly. (Na it just must be me)

I’ve been spending most of my time working on the mechanical and electrical aspects of the truck rebuild (my strong area of knowledge) and less on the body work and paint at this time (my weak area of knowledge) where I will be looking for a lot of input from the forum as time goes on.

Front end sheet metal removed, I have most of the sheet metal new and used that will be reworked later.

Attachment 413627

The truck bed wood was rotten and was easy to remove with a small pry bar in about 15 minuets and about 2 hours of cleaning up the wood chips that where all over. The nuts & bolts on the metal strips are rusted pretty bad and will be cutting them out. I don’t know what I would do with out my angle cutoff air tool. It can be dangerous and it uses a lot of air but it sure makes short work at cutting bolts and metal fabrication. I use 3 inch x .035 thick cutoff discs rather than the thicker ones.

The work bench always seems to be cluttered and perpetually needs cleaning.

Attachment 413628

This gives me the chance to show off my new acquisition for the shop. A 26 inch HD flat screen TV with a wall mount. It sure brings my shop closer to my second front room, a place to keep up with Hot Rod TV or the football game. I know the shop is not as fancy as the ones you see on TV or some of the other forum members have, but you do with what you have.

Attachment 413629

Free, free, free or should I just request you to help me clean my shop.
I’m not into selling or shipping used items so to any one close to the Everett, Washington area with some truck transportation and a possibly a little swet labor for removal I have a free 350 SB Chevy engine and TH350 Automatic Transmission to rebuild for you.

What I know about the engine and trans is very little. It appears to be the original engine and trans for the truck. No VIN number on front block deck surface (not unusual for GM manufacturing) I have no idea how many miles the engine has on it (speedometer was disconnected when I bought the truck). The engine was running but burning/ leaking oil prior to starting truck rebuild. The trans was slipping some and leaking oil. See attached pic below for block numbers. I will be posting the engine and trans in the for sale area of this forum in one or two days. PM me if your interested

I’ve rebuild a few 350 SB Chevy engines and you never know weather its rebuild able until you take it apart but I see no reason that this engine or trans is not. For any one wanting to rebuild a SB Chevy engine I recommend a HPBooks (how to rebuild your SMALL-BLOCK CHEVY) Book by David Vizard. I’ve used the book more times than I can remember to make sure I don’t forget anything in my rebuilds. Still in print, mine was printed in 1978 can be found at Amazon.com.

Attachment 413630

Rookie question.. In the second picture.. where do you find that number? Trying to figure out what year my 350 is. (Looks to be swapped out since the 350 wasnt till 69)

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by bowcoffin

Rookie question.. In the second picture.. where do you find that number? Trying to figure out what year my 350 is. (Looks to be swapped out since the 350 wasnt till 69)

Hi bowcofin

That number is on the passenger side of the block at the front, just aft of the water pump. It’s a small flat area that sticks from the block that the water pump is attached to. You might also find a VIN number for the vehicle that the engine was installed in, the VIN number is not always there. If someone painted the engine that number could be covered with paint and hard to see, also if the engine has been rebuilt and the block deck has been machined the numbers could be removed by the machining process.

All the small block Chevy engines look very similar in appearance from the outside and many parts between the different engine sizes can be interchanged. For example just because the valve covers say it’s a 350 doesn’t mean that someone didn’t put some 350 valve covers on a 327. So a good starting point is the block numbers before you start rebuilding or trying to find out what you have.

Finding out what the numbers mean is a lot simpler now days with the web. Just do a web search for ( Chevy block numbers ) and you will find a number of web sites that list the numbers and some will even tell you where to find them and what they mean.

Enjoy your build
Bruce

[Triplebuckshot]

Bruce,

First off I would like to thank you for the write up on the wiring of the wiper motor. I know that stuff takes time and I for one really appriciate it.

I have a pretty decent understanding of what your write up is saying but I have a couple questions. I have a windshield wiper motor without wiper pump and have installed a aftermarket wiring harness. I just want to make sure I am doing the right thing wiring this up.

Wire 18 BLK - 91 wires from the bottom terminal on the switch to the number 3 terminal on the wiper motor, Correct?

Wire 18 LT BLU 92 - wires from the top terminal of the switch to terminal number one on the wiper motor (center terminal), Correct?

Then the power from the fuse box wires into terminal number 2 on the wiper motor correct?

This would leave the center terminal on the switch unused. As according to your diagram it goes to the Washer Fluid Pump. Is this correct?

This is the last think I have to hook up on my Blazer and much appriciate any and all help you can give.

Respectfully,
Brentt

Originally Posted by Bruce88

What’s with the confusion some have
Some of it is understandable and some is just a lack of information

The electrical wiring of the windshield washer & wiper motor seem to cause problems for some. When their trying to troubleshoot why it’s not working or how to hook it up with stock wiring and sometimes wiring it from scratch.

The electrical circuit is basic but with a twist, normal on other circuits the power is controlled thru the switches but on the wiper circuit the ground is controlled thru the switches. You need to keep this in mind when understanding or troubleshooting the system.

There’s a good how to (Testing Windshield Wiper Motors) by LockDoc on this forum http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=413551 . I did run into a word that I was not familiar with concerning wiper motors (Non-depressed park motor or depressed park motor). What’s that mean and how does it apply to my installation? Well hears a definition that might help, on a non-depressed park motor when the wiper is turned off the motor will park the wiper blade at the bottom of the window. With a depressed park motor when the wiper is turned off the wiper blade is moved below the window into a stowed position under the cowl or hood (normally found on newer cars and trucks). Our 67 – 72 trucks only use a non-depressed park motor.

The wiring diagram has a small error that could cause a problem especially when wiring with a non-stock wiring harness. The diagrams show the power wire going to the center terminal of the three terminals on the motor, this is the wrong terminal (see picture below)

Attachment 708776

The factory prevented wiring the wiper motor wrong with a special connector and terminals on the motor. The connector has a open slot on one side so that when it’s put on the terminals the small bent tab on the terminals will allow the connector to go on in one way only. If you try to put it on wrong you will probably break the connector or bend the terminal, but we all know some people will try (smile)

You’re not going to see a bent tab on the #3 low ground terminal or slot it’s just a single wire connection. On the washer pump connection the connector has the open slots but the pump terminals (not shown) may or may not have the bent tabs on the terminals. It doesn’t mater how you connect the pump, it’s a electro magnetic solenoid and will work as long as it has power to one terminal and a ground on the other regardless how it’s hooked up.

As you go down to the parts store to get a wiper motor, the first question the parts man asks is what do you need a 3 terminal or 4 terminal wiper motor, (he doesn’t know) both wiper motors can be used and the only difference is a extra terminal not used on your installation. So the answer is what one do you have in stock and do they mind if the one you turn in (Core charge) doesn’t have the same number of terminals. Why the extra terminal I don’t know, possibly the 4 terminal motor is also used on another car or truck. The extra terminal is a jumper terminal to the #2 power terminal.

Attachment 708777

The gasket that goes between the wiper motor and the wiper mount, I picked up from LMC. To give some more sealing in this area I put some glass ribbon sealer on the edge of the wiper mount and after the motor was in smoothed the seal out with my finger on the outside area. Maybe this will help prevent any leaking, the installation drawing doesn’t show any seal being used.

Attachment 708778

A couple of pictures from a view point that you normally can’t see. As I was loading up the dash with some of the parts that go in there and before the steering column was installed or wiring harness. It definitely gets tight in there fast (smile).

Attachment 708779

May your wipers always work well when you need them, in my state I need them a lot (smile).

Enjoy your build

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by Triplebuckshot

Bruce,

First off I would like to thank you for the write up on the wiring of the wiper motor. I know that stuff takes time and I for one really appriciate it.

I have a pretty decent understanding of what your write up is saying but I have a couple questions. I have a windshield wiper motor without wiper pump and have installed a aftermarket wiring harness. I just want to make sure I am doing the right thing wiring this up.

Wire 18 BLK - 91 wires from the bottom terminal on the switch to the number 3 terminal on the wiper motor, Correct?

Wire 18 LT BLU 92 - wires from the top terminal of the switch to terminal number one on the wiper motor (center terminal), Correct?

Then the power from the fuse box wires into terminal number 2 on the wiper motor correct?

This would leave the center terminal on the switch unused. As according to your diagram it goes to the Washer Fluid Pump. Is this correct?

This is the last think I have to hook up on my Blazer and much appriciate any and all help you can give.

Respectfully,
Brentt

Hi Brentt
My understanding is you are (hand wiring / not using a stock wiring harness) wiring a stock wiper motor to a stock wiper switch and are not using the stock washer pump on the stock wiper motor.

Question (Wire 18 BLK - 91 wires from the bottom terminal on the switch to the number 3 terminal on the wiper motor, Correct?) Yes this is correct

Question (Wire 18 LT BLU - wires from the top terminal of the switch to terminal number one on the wiper motor (center terminal), Correct?) Yes this is correct

Question (Then the power from the fuse box wires into terminal number 2 on the wiper motor correct?) Yes this is correct. (note) The number 2 tab on the wiper motor has a small tab that sticks out, it’s a safety feacher to prevent the stock connecter from being put on the wrong way. Since you are hand wiring do not flatten the tab out just turn your single connecter so the open side goes past the tab, this will allow the connecter to go all the way on the number 2 terminal.

Question (This would leave the center terminal on the switch unused. As according to your diagram it goes to the Washer Fluid Pump. Is this correct?) Yes this is correct. (note) you can use this terminal to use an electrical motor washer pump, but make sure the electrical pump is not grounded, if it is grounded the pump will run all the time the ignition switch is on. This is just if you want a washer pump other than the mechanical pump on the wiper motor.

There are two grounds that you need to make sure are good.
1 The switch housing on the dash is grounded thru a star washer that penetrates the paint and makes the switch housing ground. The switch has to be mounted tight to the dash to create this ground.
2 The wiper motor has a coper strip going to one of the mounting bolts. This is for the internal parking switch in the motor. If this ground is bad the motor will not go to the park position when the wiper switch is turned off. If this ground is good and the wipers will not park the internal switch in the motor is bad and the motor needs to be replaced.

Hope this clarifies all the questions and helps you out
Enjoy your build
Bruce

[gdavis]

Going back to page one. I like the wire holders, where did you buy them, or are they home made? I need a set just like them. If you made them How about doing a set for me. Or are they a lot of time involved.

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Going back to page one. I like the wire holders, where did you buy them, or are they home made? I need a set just like them. If you made them How about doing a set for me. Or are they a lot of time involved.

Hi gdavis

The parts for the wire holders can be bought and some of the brackets need to be made to fit your engine setup. All the information and aid to help you build your own set of wire holders that I have can be found on page 33 of this build post #810

Hope this helps you out
Enjoy your build
Bruce

[gdavis]

thanks for answering my question on the wire looms. I will contact the distributor here in Florida

[poway]

Originally Posted by Average Joe

This build thread is worthy of publication. Thank you for going to such detail. I am now subscribed. Happy days.

My sentiments exactly! Thank you for documenting the build!

[hotrod969]

I need some help, if possible. I have a 1967 C10 long bed that my grandfather bought new. It has been "adapted" several times. ie...farm truck, tow truck (to pull a drag boat) and hopefully now a dependable eye catching occasional driver.
My current problem is the high speed of the wiper motor. I have a 3 wire switch which is good(by replacement and testing). The 3wires are LB, DB Black. Without removing the wiper/washer assembly the only connections I can find are 2 yellow/light blue as pictured else where in this forum.
The low speed, park, and washer work. Is this truly a 2 speed motor and if so how do I get it to work?

[UMDSmith]

Here is a link to the wiring diagram that shows the DB, LB, Black, and yellow hook ups.



Here is the link to the full size version.
http://i.imgur.com/h8Qpyh8.jpg

Hope it helps. Wiper motor is in the top center of the diagram.

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by hotrod969

I need some help, if possible. I have a 1967 C10 long bed that my grandfather bought new. It has been "adapted" several times. ie...farm truck, tow truck (to pull a drag boat) and hopefully now a dependable eye catching occasional driver.
My current problem is the high speed of the wiper motor. I have a 3 wire switch which is good(by replacement and testing). The 3wires are LB, DB Black. Without removing the wiper/washer assembly the only connections I can find are 2 yellow/light blue as pictured else where in this forum.
The low speed, park, and washer work. Is this truly a 2 speed motor and if so how do I get it to work?

From what you said that you only have 2 connections on your wiper motor it appears you have a one speed motor installed (see picture below for difference between motors). If you have all the wiring and switch for a two speed wiper system you will need a two speed wiper motor.

If you have a two speed wiper motor make sure its wired to my post on page 22 post#527 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=22

[hotrod969]

Thank you for your reply. I have never been on one of these forums so I am having trouble navigating. I don't know where my post is. I got your response by e-mail notification.
As for the truck as I stated it has been in the family since new with long terms of inactivity. I am trying to get it dependable again. It appears it came from the factory with a single speed motor even-though it has a 2 speed switch and the owners manual lists it as a two speed. The black wire from the switch disappears into the wiring harness with the LB & DB wires never to be seen again.
My options appear to be: leave it as is, put in a 2 speed motor and run a new wire from the switch to the motor or strip out the harness and try to find the "disappearing" black wire?
Thanks again for the input.

[Starrman67]

Bruce,

It may be 'Just A Pickup,' but the "Post Is Off The Hook" as my kids would say. (I am assuming that is good.)

I enjoy your style, brother! Your attention to detail and easy manner will serve many a project wrangler hereabouts for a long time to come! I, too, enjoy the time with my mates working through issues in the garage. It is better, cheaper, (yes!) and a lot more fun than therapy, eh?

I know I am late to this build, but I also know that there are a ton of us who owe you a great deal of gratitude for taking the time to document it all and post it up in here!

So let me add my voice to the others, including those who may never say thanks or howdy, with a great big Thank-you and Cheers, mate!

You are a true Renassainc... Rennescan... Rennaseance.. Umm a true teacher, artist, engineer and all-around great man!!! ;-)

Peace

starrman