Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

then after 3 long days the Muncie SM465 Fel-Pro Gasket Set arrived

that's right my Township Autozone had to special order these gaskets, what special order for a dime a dozen Cheby 350?

so I go to pick 'em up today, and the box is torn in half (as shown) I say to the young lady I hope everything's in there, she assures me it is [aha]

well sure as heck the constructions (as my three year old would call his Lego's instructions) be missin', one of the reasons I get Fel-Pro gaskets is for their 3x5 card instructions, and here they are missing

also see how they packaged that large gasket, why would they do that, why not get a bigger box? [they need to hire Summit shipping guys]

[Chaplain]

Smh...

[Gregski]

I'll be honest wichya all I've spent the evening wrasslin with that pig and I just can't get the lid back on her for the life of me

now something told me don't glue / goop the new gasket on there just yet, first try to just put the lid back on, and sure enuff I can't

I am trying to find some video on YouTube right now to figure it out, I know to take it off I had to put the joystick half way in reverse, but guess what I can not shift at all right now with the lid off the tranny

any advice / tips greatly appreciated

[rich weyand]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=427819

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sm46...nstall.261929/

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=427819

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sm46...nstall.261929/

Thank you so much Rich that did it, to be honest with you the first time I got her sealed I must have missed the darn idler gear cause she would only turn in Neutral, I stuck my finger in her and could slide the idler with my hand, not good

so I took a deep breath and removed the cover and tried again with no gasket this time and she shifted and turned in all gears

so I did a third take (with gasket this time fer good) and got her in - the key is lining up those three large slider bars in the lid like in the pic below, see how the one is longer than the other two, it is not all the way out, nor is it in neutral it is in between, the other two sisters are just snapped in to neutral (very technical explanation I know)

and here's a top tip, after you get the lid back on, the transmission is still stuck half way in Reverse so you may not be able to get her to shift

I took a large screw driver and snapped her all the way in Neutral or reverse I forget which and then I could stick the shifter back in and shift

[Gregski]

I am fixin on re assemblin' the bell housing and the clutch fork and throwout bearing, question is will I be using the Lubriplate lithium grease on the metal ball joint that the metal clutch fork pivots on inside the bellhousing, or is there some other grease I should consider?

[bnoon]

I've always used a dab of heavy axle grease.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by bnoon

I've always used a dab of heavy axle grease.

Might could this work, my daddy bought it 30 years ago

Castrol Multi Purpose Wheel Bearing Grease NLGI No. 2

(now I aint no mathematician but if that aint no oximoron I don't know what is, how can something be multi purpose / wheel bearing grease, that's like saying any flavor / black cherry, LOL)

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Might could this work, my daddy bought it 30 years ago

Castrol Multi Purpose Wheel Bearing Grease NLGI No. 2

(now I aint no mathematician but if that aint no oximoron I don't know what is, how can something be multi purpose / wheel bearing grease, that's like saying any flavor / black cherry, LOL)

"One size fits all"

[rich weyand]

Use the white lithium grease. Axle grease is for load-bearing situations such as axle bearings and U-joints and the swivel plates underneath the tires on an alignment rack. It holds up under those loads better than white lithium grease, BUT it has a higher drag to motion than white lithium grease for low-load applications. That is, it is less slippery for low-load applications. Anything other than axle bearings and U-joints on a vehicle, you are better off with white lithium grease.

For high-load applications, TRC 880 Crown & Chassis Grease is number 1. (IMO, OC!)

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Use the white lithium grease. Axle grease is for load-bearing situations such as axle bearings and U-joints and the swivel plates underneath the tires on an alignment rack. It holds up under those loads better than white lithium grease, BUT it has a higher drag to motion than white lithium grease for low-load applications. That is, it is less slippery for low-load applications. Anything other than axle bearings and U-joints on a vehicle, you are better off with white lithium grease.

For high-load applications, TRC 880 Crown & Chassis Grease is number 1. (IMO, OC!)

once again, thank you so much Rich that totally helps, really good explanation, and by now it aint no secret I am the worlds' worst chemist

[bnoon]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Use the white lithium grease. Axle grease is for load-bearing situations such as axle bearings and U-joints and the swivel plates underneath the tires on an alignment rack. It holds up under those loads better than white lithium grease, BUT it has a higher drag to motion than white lithium grease for low-load applications. That is, it is less slippery for low-load applications. Anything other than axle bearings and U-joints on a vehicle, you are better off with white lithium grease.

For high-load applications, TRC 880 Crown & Chassis Grease is number 1. (IMO, OC!)

I've never had white lithium stand up to long duration applications though, which is why I suggested the heavier grease. The axle grease is heavier and stays put on things like pivot points, especially on ones you can't really reach like this clutch fork. White lithium to me is more for things that need reapplied yearly, like hinges, lock linkage and mechanisms/etc.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by bnoon

I've never had white lithium stand up to long duration applications though, which is why I suggested the heavier grease. The axle grease is heavier and stays put on things like pivot points, especially on ones you can't really reach like this clutch fork. White lithium to me is more for things that need reapplied yearly, like hinges, lock linkage and mechanisms/etc.

That's where I think it makes a difference whether you use white lithium grease or Lubriplate white lithium grease.

[Gregski]

so it was time to button up the transmission I used the Permatex Spray-A-Gasket Sealant to get the gaskets tacky

[Gregski]

cleaned the siamese twins, Phil and D'rain

[Gregski]

and then it was time to paint the transission

Finally, thought this day would never come (I know you and me both)

Wait you gonna paint it white?

No, that paint needs a mixin' though it does look old like it's left over from when they painted the Titanic.

There, that's better... G R A Y

[Gregski]

and here is our subject (I did tape off the electric switches for backup lights and that SMOG thing)

[Gregski]

wait what? You painted it WHITE?

wait a minute, that's not the color I wanted?

It was supposed to be gray, I was picturing cast iron. I know POR15 has a SILVER, but I purposely bought GRAY. LOL

[Gregski]

and what do we have here?

seriously, that's all that was in the box?

Yup, Eastwood's Metal Blackening Solution $14 bucks plus another $5 for shipping, not bad

now back in the day, Eastwood had a two part Metal Blackening kit, it came with:

1. Blackening Solution
2. Sealant

you would dip the metal in the first plastic container than dip it in the second, job done!

then they realized they can make a whole lot more money by adding a bunch of stuff to the kit nobody needed, like safety goggles, rubber gloves, some crappy cleaning product, and by the way they replaced the sealant with clear lacquer in a rattle can

fine but does it work?

well in its full strength (hey I paid for it I will mix it or not mix it how I please, JK) in its full strength this is what it did in 1 minute of soaking

it turned a silver part darker silver, LOL, question is will this prevent rusting, and by the way I did spray it with my own clear in a rattle can

[greg64]

Hey Greg, that transmission looks a lot better painted, and now it won't become a rusty mess. On my 465, I used POR-15 black, which turned out fine. However, I subsequently bought their cast iron grey paint, and I've used that a few times with good results. Basically looks like the part is unpainted, except that it is.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

... I subsequently bought their cast iron grey paint, and I've used that a few times with good results. Basically looks like the part is unpainted, except that it is.

is it the 15 oz spray can stuff? What they call Detail Paint? I didn't go for that cause I wanted their rust treatment product, but now I might.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Gregski

is it the 15 oz spray can stuff? What they call Detail Paint? I didn't go for that cause I wanted their rust treatment product, but now I might.

I think my stuff is "Factory Manifold Grey":
http://www.por15.com/HIGH-TEMP_p_104.html

But this Metal Mask stuff looks like it could work too:
http://www.por15.com/METAL-MASK_p_40.html

I've also used the engine enamels, and they are really tough too. So is the Hard Nose 2-part paint.

[rusty76]

I'm glad you are getting this thing back in order!

[canadian_diesel1964]

man this is a sweet build!!

[LSX408]

Loving this build! Awesome work!