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11-20-2022, 06:25 AM
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#801 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 948
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Rather refreshing to know that I have been able to provide an idea rather than shamelessly 'borrow' those from others.
P. 
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Woody's Build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=658621 If it goes wrong, I blame the Internet... |
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11-20-2022, 01:38 PM
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#802 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
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11-20-2022, 01:43 PM
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#803 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok, so on the idea from Paul Y and others, I finished the install of the Fuel and return lines. See pics and found a suitable location for the Pressure Reg.
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11-20-2022, 01:44 PM
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#804 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
More...
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11-20-2022, 01:45 PM
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#805 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Note, the Red and Blue tape is there for me to know which is which... it will be removed.
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11-20-2022, 01:47 PM
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#806 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok now onto pics of CaptainFabs Hydra Brake Booster and Hydraulic Clutch Mount and associated parts. I have the main bracket mounted, just need to Drill the hole out (find the center before... should be fun) then test fit. Then start the brake line routes.
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11-20-2022, 01:50 PM
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#807 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
HELP !!!
Ok, as you can imagine.. I have ALOT of parts and well I am trying to get them all set and laid out and well TADA I found two that I am lost as to where the go! Help please!! I was getting all my brake pedal stuff setout, and ready to assemble with new bushings and all .... Don't laugh to hard at me... lol
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John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless |
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11-20-2022, 02:47 PM
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#808 |
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Revitalizing a 6T C10
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 222
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I think those are both steering column related - I think the elbow shaped one goes on the inner fender and the other one goes in side the cabin where the column goes through.
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1960 C-10 Apache- "Rusty the Redneck Reject"
1/2 Ton short bed step side. 350 crate motor, 3 speed manual (floor shifted) MKII - Buddy Buckets and Glass Packs 20+ year long term project in process Lots of Rust, more memories... |
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11-20-2022, 08:53 PM
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#809 |
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Senior Member
  
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Hickory Flat, GA
Posts: 4,484
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
60short is correct on the location of those two panels.
The updated pics are looking good!
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Christian Carpenter 1963 C10 - Frankentruck 283, Muncie 3 speed with overdrive Overdrive wiring here1963-ish truck bed trailer - Half-Wit 1981 C10 - Penny 305, th350 --> Soon to be 350, Saginaw 4 speed 1995 Dodge Dakota Sport "I'll put it simple: if you're going hard enough left, you'll find yourself turning right." - Doc Hudson |
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11-21-2022, 03:15 AM
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#810 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Braunschweig, Lower Saxony, Germany
Posts: 807
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I love your build, it looks great. The parts have already been identified.
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------------------------------------------- Greetings Harald My 62 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829782 |
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11-21-2022, 11:02 AM
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#811 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
For those of you just reading things on the site and thinking of joining, THIS is a perfect example of why you should! There are many on here that are so willing to help and pass along the knowledge and experience.
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John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless |
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11-21-2022, 11:03 AM
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#812 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
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11-21-2022, 11:05 AM
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#813 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
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11-26-2022, 01:48 PM
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#814 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 2,082
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
It's been a while since I've checked in. You're coming along great and your work is awesome. Keep it up.
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Sanity'66 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=515110 Long bed, Fleetside, Small back window I've Done So Much, With So Little, For So Long, That Now I Can Do Anything With Nothing. 
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11-28-2022, 04:51 PM
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#815 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
Now I am working with the Hydro boost system I bought and making it work with CaptainFab's great Hydro boost and Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder setup. His stuff is just amazing and now I am working with him to make it work right. The issue is with the mounting plate that came with the CPP Beast Hydro Boost. This plate is for universal and has only two holes on it BUT a bunch of dimples that appear to be possible to be drilled holes, and 4 of those line up to CaptainFab's mount, BUT I need to remove that damn Hydro boost nut, so just to make it easy, I ordered CaptainFab's. Then I will look at what way is best to mount it. All this just to figure out how to route my damn brake lines and Hydraulic lines for the Rack-n-Pinion, Power steering pump and Hydro boost. just one more step... lol
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12-01-2022, 02:15 PM
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#816 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok, so I have some update pics.
(CaptainFab if please feel free to use any of the pics or info as you wish sir, great damn product!!) Here are some pics of the Clutch and Brake pedals installed (fully re-built and powder coated) along with CaptainFab's hydro-boost and Clutch Slave Cylinder kit (stuff is amazing that he sells).
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12-01-2022, 02:16 PM
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#817 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
a few more
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12-01-2022, 02:30 PM
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#818 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
For the Hydro-Boost I ordered the universal kit from CPP - Beast Kit - With that said, here is a warning... the mount as you can see has 2 holes only, BUT it has dimples in area that perfectly line up with the holes in CaptainFab's mount (which I highly suggest you get, not just because it is a great piece, but because he has taking the painstaking time to develop it to work correctly with these trucks). So, that fact they have dimples tells me that they are there for drilling out what holes you need to mount it. Now that is all great and dandy... except for 1 small issue ..... HOW DO YOU GET THAT DAMN SPECIAL NUT OFF!! Well again, Thank you to CaptainFab, he sells a custom made socket to do this. So, just a heads up, if you go Hydro-Boost, either CCP's, or anyone elses, you may need to get this special nut socket. Anyways, mine is on the way... lol I need to get it mounted so i can start the fun time of running all my brake lines.
With that said, Question time. I have been looking at other brake line installations and some install a residual pressure valve for each line (1 to front and 1 to rear). In my case I am running all Disc brakes, so a 2lb valve. Are these necessary for this installation? I always believed that if the master cylinder is above the brakes, then these are not necessary. I have bought a set of them and plan to install. If anything, it is a great way to to disconnect the whole brake unit without removing the lines from the block, a disconnection point if you will. Yes I do understand it is another place for leaks, if they are not necessary then I just like the idea of a disconnection point. But back to the question, are they needed? Next question... On the distribution block there are two outs for the front brakes, one for each (left and right) and then one for the rear. So, install one line for each of the fronts from the distribution block that is just under the master cylinder OR run just one and then install a splitter in the line down by the frame and then run separate lines to the front brakes? - And if best to run a separate line to each front, install a residual pressure valve for each and the one for the rear? Thank you to all of you in advance that take the time to respond!!! God Bless.
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John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless |
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12-01-2022, 02:32 PM
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#819 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
pics....
If you look at the Hydro-boost plate you will see the dimples and you will see I have highlighted 4 in Silver, these are the ones that line up to Captainfab's mount. Last two pics are the brake pedals all done and insalled.
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John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless |
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12-01-2022, 02:34 PM
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#820 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,041
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Clutch pedal pivot set-up does look very nice. Should be zero issues w/angles causing wear/problems.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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12-02-2022, 04:20 AM
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#821 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Braunschweig, Lower Saxony, Germany
Posts: 807
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
The deflection to reduce the force is a great product.
I also thought about it when converting the Mustang to hydraulic clutch actuation for the BorgWarner T5. I love clever things like this and your clean structure, great.
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------------------------------------------- Greetings Harald My 62 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829782 |
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12-02-2022, 05:59 AM
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#822 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 948
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Lovely work Jeff.
P.
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Woody's Build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=658621 If it goes wrong, I blame the Internet... |
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12-02-2022, 01:21 PM
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#823 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
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John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless |
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12-02-2022, 01:21 PM
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#824 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
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John 3:16 - Saved me... God Bless |
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12-05-2022, 02:33 PM
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#825 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,651
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok, so I got the Nut for the Hydro boost from CaptainFab and it work flawlessly, just as I expected. I got the C-Clip off, then the nut, removed the spacer and test fit the correct dimples to drill out, and the ones I highlighted in silver are perfect. I drilled them out with my drill press, test fit it again to CaptainFabs bracket and it was a perfect match. So then I install the plate back onto the Hydro boost, replace the clip and test mount the entire system. It was a perfect match. The only kicker here now is the distance to the brake pedal mount is further than than the pieces they send with the kit, and go try to find a damn 3/8" all thread rod with Fine threads!!! Hint, locally hardware stores do not have any! The reality is that the only thing they have that is over 1" long are the hollow all thread for hanging lights, the gold hollow all thread! Ys not using that... so i found a 12" piece of all thread for just over 2 dollars at Granger supply. ANYWAYS... lol I just want it to fit and look right. Getting this 12" all thread will allow me to reach the hole in the pedal. I will have it adjusted to be just off the rubber bumpers.
I have the clutch pedal the same way and it is done already. I have pics coming of this.
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