TA_C10: Stage 1

[SkidmoreGarage]

If you are thinking to plastic weld with a soldering iron style, I would say try it out before you dive in. The results are really hit or miss based on the type of plastic and the application. You will have one good looking side (after a lot of fettling), and one side that is a globby mess, assuming that it isn't too thin or the wrong type of plastic.

Can you run a cartridge style MAF? The bolt in type?

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

I chose the passenger side because I built my PDU panel on drivers side. I also relocated my battery to frame rail and that left a huge ton of "nothing-ness" on the passenger side so it was the logical place. And logical as well because I wanted to build a box or block off plate in the fender area.



This is good to know, yes I meant the beads. If I don't need those I may have another option here. More on this in a minute.



Thanks for the options fellas. I would much rather do a short run to a filter with a smooth pipe because of looks for the most part. But I see time and time again factory setups going to a box or block off plate(essentially a box) to the fender side away from heat. And we all know here by now I am no expert at any of this business. My father owned a mechanic shop for years so I have more of a mechanical set of skills and knowledge than anything else. So I understand the cooler air intakes. This is ALL I was trying to achieve here. My brain said let's get cooler air, and left out the good looking part... If I had it to do all over again, I would have put the PDU on passenger side, and then ran intake to drivers side not competing with rad hoses. Or different radiator with upper on the drivers side.... But I am at most things here, a newb when it comes to ground up builds. This is my first.

I purchased this expensive kit almost a year ago now, I should have waited.
But the decision behind that was I can't weld aluminum because I don't have the tools for that. This is also going to only be a daily driver, so looks weren't at the top of my priority list. But then that's a lie, I still want it to look good, I just made a hasty decision and now I gotta live with it.

However, I think I still have a small option for better looking, if my idea works out. I am really hoping to be able to hot weld this plastic together in the middle joint removing that sleeve completely. I also plan to smooth all the unnecessary beads if I can do that and paint it perhaps, I dunno. But I will still entertain any ideas from you guys. I will look into the aluminum route and see what it will cost me on top of the expensive kit I have now

The intake looks good. If I can help clean it up at all let me know. I too would go for cool air over aesthetics. I remember in the speed-density days people would stuff a cone filter right off the throttle body. Looked clean, but you're sucking up nothing but radiator air at that point.

[TA_C10]

The plastic is really thick, good stuff. But not sure about the welding yet, I have test pieces to try it first. And I can run a cartridge style MAF but I already bought the stock style. I guess I can look into price on those and maybe sell mine, I just hate wasting money if I can't find a buyer...

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[TA_C10]

Well, I'm back from vacation, and I am trying to get re-motivated on the truck again but this list...... Seems like I keep adding to it faster than I can cross items off





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[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Well, I'm back from vacation

FINALLY! I've been wondering why no updates.

I hope you're all rested up, cause that list ain't gonna tackle itself... Like 71stepside says, just try to switch to a different project when things aren't flowing right. I'll do my best to inspire you, here goes... You're getting very close to having a personally hand built one of a kind classic Chevy daily driver with all kinds of cool amenities. Now lets see another 50 pictures please, I need some motivation too.

Here's an idea, just work on the things absolutely needed to make it drive-able, then maybe the motivation will come naturally?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I'm holding on the rearview mirror until I see what you figure out. Remember the good thing about a big list is if something starts fighting you, you have something else to move on to.

I will be working on the mirror very soon. I plan to polish the metal ball, paint it, and test it out in the socket to make sure it doesn't rub the paint off, and go from there.

Originally Posted by cornerstone

FINALLY! I've been wondering why no updates.

I hope you're all rested up, cause that list ain't gonna tackle itself... Like 71stepside says, just try to switch to a different project when things aren't flowing right. I'll do my best to inspire you, here goes... You're getting very close to having a personally hand built one of a kind classic Chevy daily driver with all kinds of cool amenities. Now lets see another 50 pictures please, I need some motivation too.

Here's an idea, just work on the things absolutely needed to make it drive-able, then maybe the motivation will come naturally?

LOL. Thanks man. We can all use the motivation from time to time. And speaking of motivation, I knocked off an item on my list Tuesday(sealed bulkhead on firewall) and now i'm working on intake tube again.

The original style MAF fits directly into the 4" tube on one end, and needs a coupler on the other end. If a clamp can squeeze the tubing enough to hold the MAF in place I will be happy. Otherwise I will have to come up with something different.

Here is what it looks like so far with mock-up. It's right after a 45 degree curve I know, but this is just to get me started. I may end up going with doing an aluminum tube another day like some of you have mentioned.


I will need to cut off a little plastic notch in the MAF so it sits flush inside the intake tube, but currently it's a pretty tight fit just sliding it in there so this may work.










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[1971Stepside]

I'm holding on the rearview mirror until I see what you figure out. Remember the good thing about a big list is if something starts fighting you, you have something else to move on to.

[SkidmoreGarage]

Slight detour, I noticed that you had a pull type parking brake a couple pages back. I have the big lever under the column and I'd like to switch it out.

Is that OEM or did you make something?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by SkidmoreGarage

Slight detour, I noticed that you had a pull type parking brake a couple pages back. I have the big lever under the column and I'd like to switch it out.

Is that OEM or did you make something?

Where did you see that? I have the regular foot pedal e-brake man

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[SkidmoreGarage]

Yeah, I suppose the mind sees what it wants. I saw the release handle and made an assumption. Carry on!

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by SkidmoreGarage

Yeah, I suppose the mind sees what it wants. I saw the release handle and made an assumption. Carry on!

I'm guessing you have and earlier year truck. I don't know what the cutoff is but the 67 and 68 have the long horizontal lever just under the column. My 72 is the same style as TA's... a foot pedal design near the drivers kick panel.

[TA_C10]

Yeah I forgot to mention the for pedal bracket and assembly is available at a couple different online vendors. They just bolt to dash and firewall. Doubt it would be an issue swapping yours out.

[TA_C10]

Modified a tab bracket to bolt up to the radiator support. Holds it just right. OE MAF fits perfectly inside the tube on the front side, silicone sleeve holds the rear. Now I need to fab up a custom cold air box and get it mounted. New pigtail harness won't be here for a couple weeks so finish wiring up the plug when that arrives.


I used a die grinder to get rid of the tab so the MAF slides inside the intake tube and seats flush.




Here is bracket modified and attached to the rad supoort bracket.




Waiting for pigtail.




I don't have the filter side tube all the way in the silicone sleeve here yet, it fits better than what you see. Later pics show it fitting better.









The kit only came with these 2 silicone sleeves. I don't like the idea of this one on the intake with the bubble ring in it so I will probably get another one to replace this.




Neato Bandito!

[1971Stepside]

Be a lot cooler if that beer was open

[TA_C10]

yes it would wouldn't it...

[TA_C10]

Doh! Ran out of correct size connectors...

[TA_C10]

Update - MAF Sensor / Kick Vents

Got the MAF sensor wired up and tested. Idle seemed a little low at 500 but as I drove around it seemed to learn and it's been at 600 since.

I also got my kick panel vents rebuilt. Found replacement foam online, worked good. Won't install these until I get my little access panel doors/hinges made for door wiring.







Loomed up the wiring, tucked away.







Vents were easy. They were pristine on the insides after I drilled the rivets. Foam was shot. I just took them apart, cleaned them up, painted them, put them back together with new foam, rivets.

[1971Stepside]

Wow! Those vents look great. I started pulling wire yesterday...seems a little daunting. I'm gonna lean on you and Beaterku for help.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Wow! Those vents look great. I started pulling wire yesterday...seems a little daunting. I'm gonna lean on you and Beaterku for help.

Sounds good man. I refer back to my notebook all the time. So glad I built my own wiring diagrams for everything. I would be lost without them. You just can't remember all those details, at least in my pea brain

These new wiring harnesses, the way they are labeled, really are super easy to work with. But. What they don't tell you, is have a plan first. I bought the 67-72 factory assembly manual and it just doesn't help because your doing everything completely fresh and new. So lay it out, bundle it for engine, cab, etc. Then install it in the truck, same way, bundled, laid out front to back, make sure you inventory it all first. And if your really thorough, pin the whole thing out first so you can be sure you have a good harness. And last, diagram everything. Especially anything custom your doing. Oh, and your crimping tool, make sure it's a good one. The AA harness instructions said their factory crimps don't need solder. But when you crimp manually with a hand tool, you should also solder so I did that. Peace of mind knowing they are all solid.

Let me know if you need anything. I am wiring up my cruise control currently and I am pretty much done until I get the bed on. Good luck brother.



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[TA_C10]

Update - Bed Cross Sill(gas tank)

I finally got around to modifying my cross sill that goes over the gas tank. P.O. just simply cut out the center section and tossed it aside.... So I notched it 1.5" and capped it for strength. Funny thing is, the 1.5 inches I cut out was enough material to cap the top making this free except for mig wire... Lazy....

Worked out pretty good. Mocked it up as I went along making sure it would fit. Plenty of clearance. And because I have a long bed, I have those extra supports so this should be plenty of support for whatever I put in the bed.

It's pretty much 16awg steel, but I still had a slight curve when I was done welding. Not sure if heat was the issue or it was already like that. Nothing a little body weight couldn't solve. Straightened her right up after few bounces.

Already primed the cross sills with epoxy, so I just used some VHT roll bar and chassis paint on these.

[TA_C10]

I also got the rest of the cross sills scuffed and painted. When I went to test fit the bed side, I noticed the body lines were not matching up. I installed the cross sills with those aftermarket rubber pads. I saw on Mar-K website their instructions mention to use those. But looks like they are pushing my bed up too high so I may not be able to use them. Either that or I have to jack up my cab and shim the back.... I REALLY don't want to do that... Unless it's a must, or better off doing it that way... Those rubber pads are pretty thick.










Here is a pic of the rubber pads under the cross sills.

[TA_C10]

Mar-K instructions = http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/...nformation.pdf

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[TA_C10]

Brown Truck dropped something off today. Can't get too excited, these are just a fix to a rubbin problem. And rubbin son, is a part of racin...

[TA_C10]

Update - Painting and New Wheels(sorta)

More bodywork and paint... There is only so much of this stuff you can post... Bed sides are now in high build primer. Last step before final paint.

The other news I have is my wheel/tire issue is fixed. After some research I pulled the trigger on 2 new front rims to correct the bowlegged/rubbing problem. Previous owner put 10" rims all the way around with 3.5" backspacing. Well that was fine when the truck was in the air. Now that it's down low, front tires stuck out 2" past the fender lips. I found replacement rims several places, ended up finding them cheapest at LMCTruck(didn't even know they sold wheels). These should work until I figure out what wheels/tire combo I want later down the road(Part of Phase II). I am leaning towards 17 or 18 inch rims. I think the 20s are fine and look good on these trucks but I want more tire but still get some wheel in there too. Proportions

So here is the final setup, no more bowlegged look, no more rubbing.

Front = 8" rims with 3.5" backspacing - 235/60R15 Cooper Cobra G/T
Front = 10" rims with 3.5" backspacing - 275/60R15 Cooper Cobra G/T

Pretty sure both are zero offset as well. Forgot to measure that...



Before pics of front wheels:







After pics:










And I am trying to decide which center caps I like best, my originals that came with the truck are shorter and more rugged truck looking vs the American Racing dome look.








Bed sides in 2k high build. I wrapped my complete garage in plastic this time which really made a huge difference in cleanup. And my little make-shift paint station in the entryway of house(wife loves it when I redneck the front yard )

[SCOTI]

I like the 8's. Def a better fit for your set-up.