Project Grande Slam: Coley's Hot Rod Shop

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Eric's Cheyenne Super, etc. I wouldn't be going this low ..

I sure want to go this low......

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

To give you an idea, here's mine w/ a 6" drop coil and 1.5" blocks. Sits just right, IMO. The caveat here is that I did the trailing arm mount 'flip', which I recommend, but it did raise the rear around 3/4" higher. Top pic is pre-flip. You will absolutely require a c-notch at this height.

What is your front drop?

[CC69Rat]

Help me understand the trailing arm mount flip (?)

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Help me understand the trailing arm mount flip (?)

The spring is the pivot point.
Move the front of the trailing arm up.
The rear of the trailing arm moves down.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by shawno72

What is your front drop?

3" Belltech spindles and trimmed 1" Belltech drop coils. Figure around 5" drop. I have Porterbuilt arms going on to push that wheel forward in the arch...

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Help me understand the trailing arm mount flip (?)

Fixes your rear geommetry at extreme drop levels, bringing it back closer to stock. benefits pinion angle and antisquat/dive. Check these links:

NoLimit Rob's "Make it Handle" thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=270

A couple talking about the 'flip':
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=439768

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=362464

...and the raises ride height discussion:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=496411

[Rusbuilt]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The spring is the pivot point.
Move the front of the trailing arm up.
The rear of the trailing arm moves down.

Originally Posted by gringoloco

3" Belltech spindles and trimmed 1" Belltech drop coils. Figure around 5" drop. I have Porterbuilt arms going on to push that wheel forward in the arch...


Fixes your rear geommetry at extreme drop levels, bringing it back closer to stock. benefits pinion angle and antisquat/dive. Check these links:

NoLimit Rob's "Make it Handle" thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=270

A couple talking about the 'flip':
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=439768

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=362464

...and the raises ride height discussion:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=496411

Thats good info! I may try this!

[CC69Rat]

So, correct me if I'm wrong. .. doing this adds to the rear drop? by ~.75" ? Axle ultimately sits higher / closer to the bed floor?

The original holes in the top would index into the holes in the bottom in a direct 180* true "flip" of this bracket? I can see where it would change the 'tilt' of the pinion angle to correct in low drop angles. Does this put it back to (or close to) the factory pinion angle or would I still need shims?

top to bottom, left to right. Original hole #1 would drop into hole #6 making it a direct 180*flip? Holes #2 and #3 in the bracket would then need to be re-drilled into the cross member because there were no holes there originally. The original cross member holes can be re-drilled and matched for 8 total bolts? Am I seeing this correctly?

[Rusbuilt]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

So, correct me if I'm wrong. .. doing this adds to the rear drop? by ~.75" ? Axle ultimately sits higher / closer to the bed floor?

The original holes in the top would index into the holes in the bottom in a direct 180* true "flip" of this bracket? I can see where it would change the 'tilt' of the pinion angle to correct in low drop angles. Does this put it back to (or close to) the factory pinion angle or would I still need shims?

top to bottom, left to right. Original hole #1 would drop into hole #6 making it a direct 180*flip? Holes #2 and #3 in the bracket would then need to be re-drilled into the cross member because there were no holes there originally. The original cross member holes can be re-drilled and matched for 8 total bolts? Am I seeing this correctly?

Looks to me like it takes away from the drop a bit and it would bring pinion angle closer to stock but not exact.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Rusbuilt

Looks to me like it takes away from the drop a bit and it would bring pinion angle closer to stock but not exact.

correct.

[CC69Rat]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

.... but it did raise the rear around 3/4" higher. Top pic is pre-flip. ..

Sorry .. I see it now.

[NoNeck]

Flipping the trailing arm brackets seems like a lot of work. Plus you are RAISING the truck by 3/4".

Why not use some degree shims like the ones pictured (not these, they are for leaf springs), between the rear end plate and trailing arm? That's what they are designed for. If they don't make 'em, I can have some made up with the exact amount of pinion correction for the U-Bolt design.

Question: Where do you mount the brake line union on the frame rail once the Porter
Built crossmember/shock locator is installed?

POP

[lolife99]

You can buy trailing arm shims here:
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/trkarm1.htm

[CC69Rat]

Pop -- Take a look at the Hotchkis writeup here:

http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/suspe.../photo_27.html

My flipping the mounts for the trailing arms, it not only corrects the pinion angle but it will help the truck with handling, etc. Hotchkis makes a bracket to do essentially this same thing. "Anti-Squat"

I had seen them before but I never knew where they go / mounted. Pretty cool.

[superflysteiny]

I know I am not helping but I think you should lay her out. You and your dad will be the coolest cats in Daisy

[CC69Rat]

Yeah, it's going down but I cant really do air. .. just as low as I can on a static and well built, well handling ls2 candidate..

Did I say that out loud?


The wheel is back in that Chicago sort facility and hasnt moved since 8 last night..If it comes back to Cali were going to need to just stop it, pick it up and maybe reship Fedex. I dont know whats going on in Chicago.
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[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

So, correct me if I'm wrong. .. doing this adds to the rear drop? by ~.75" ? Axle ultimately sits higher / closer to the bed floor?

This mod will raise your truck ~3/4", in my experience.

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

The original holes in the top would index into the holes in the bottom in a direct 180* true "flip" of this bracket?

Correct.

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

I can see where it would change the 'tilt' of the pinion angle to correct in low drop angles. Does this put it back to (or close to) the factory pinion angle or would I still need shims?

It subtracts 3" of the drop your pinion 'sees'. So, in your case it would be like a 3" coil drop worth of pinion angle change. I doubt you would need shims, but each truck is different.

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

top to bottom, left to right. Original hole #1 would drop into hole #6 making it a direct 180*flip? Holes #2 and #3 in the bracket would then need to be re-drilled into the cross member because there were no holes there originally. The original cross member holes can be re-drilled and matched for 8 total bolts? Am I seeing this correctly?

Yes, but I only re-drilled the two closest to the pivot point, and used six 7/16" bolts per side for 12 total. I've also seen guys do 8 per side.

Did I read LS2?!
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[CC69Rat]

Still no movement on the other wheel. Stuck in Hodgkis IL again, since 9/24.

The other one made it just fine. I dont understand it but if its not here by eob tomorrow, ..Im escalating with UPS. This is beyond ridiculous.
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[superflysteiny]

I am on it as I write this. I will have answer for you by the end of the day. I leave for vaction tomorrow but I pmed you my number and I will pm you my uncles lab number too. Thanks Eric

[CC69Rat]

Eric -- it's in Nashville. Hopefully it's on schedule now, I think we're good.

[knomadd]

I wish I had the extra funds right now to do all of that. I want to bag my truck so I can get it low and still tow once in a while but hell, I can't spend that much cash for a while. It will take me forever to save the money, but I'm not disciplined enough to save and not buy other stuff. Been trying to buy a 700r4 for my GTO but keep spending that money on truck parts or tools.
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[CC69Rat]

Originally Posted by knomadd

I wish I had the extra funds right now to do all of that. I want to bag my truck so I can get it low and still tow once in a while but hell, I can't spend that much cash for a while. It will take me forever to save the money, but I'm not disciplined enough to save and not buy other stuff. Been trying to buy a 700r4 for my GTO but keep spending that money on truck parts or tools.
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I really can't spend that much either, .. I just have an incredible wife and parents that helped me pull the coin together for the rear wheels. Had I needed to pay the actual price for these wheels I wouldn't have gone this route. Honestly to run a ~.25 spacer if I need to is worth it to me to save that much on my wheels. I have a bonus check in March (our Annual Performance Based Initiative at work) which should allow me to get the fronts. My truck will look kinda goofy through the winter but it will give me some time (on jack stands) to get the underside cleaned and detailed like I want it, run my hard lines for the rear discs, fix the exhaust.. it will need to go a little higher.. etc. It's just a winter time project for me a my pop. I have decided to go with the Porterbuilt stuff in the rear. Notch, shock bars, track bar, etc. I took the day off tomorrow and dad and I will begin knocking rivets out.. I'm going by tonight to pick up a step bit for the holes. Tomorrow is Dad's birthday. I thought we'd just hang out the whole day and work on the GMC.

I will come out gunning in the spring.. The GMC will be a 'semi-finished up' clean driver for local shows and I can get back on the stepper.

I have inherited a 2006 Acura RSX as my occasional daily, so I now have a garage spot too!

[CC69Rat]

Oh, .. and the wheel is on the UPS truck for delivery today. Woohoo. I just hope it made it ok. Eric, I'll check it out and let you know. Thanks for your help.

[Rusbuilt]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Oh, .. and the wheel is on the UPS truck for delivery today. Woohoo. I just hope it made it ok. Eric, I'll check it out and let you know. Thanks for your help.

Good deal!

[N2TRUX]

Have you thought about air for the rear? If you do manual bags in back you can add a hitch and tow a small trailer since you dont want to scratch up that pretty bed wood.

[CC69Rat]

Ken, I may change to Schrader at some point .. I will probably bag the stepper. We'll see what happens I guess. I do haul a trailer but it's pretty rare I haul more than my bicycle.

In the pictures below, just making sure. The factory upper shock bar comes out, correct? Probably a stupid question. I have the upper bar that I'm 99% sure replaces this one. (Where the hammer is laying in the pics)

I just want to make sure, never done this before.