Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[OrrieG]

Russel thanks, photo is exactly what I needed. Green as I under stand it the big wire on the back charges the battery thru the cable to the solenoid. The small is the exciter that turns the alt off and on. As Russel pointed out the red gauge wire is not used with the stock ammeter.

[OrrieG]

Small progress, too busy a work. Got the starter side wired and the buss for the AC and headlights installed. Wired the AC and over to the headlight relays with fusible link. Mounted the buss on the side of the battery box so its not so visible but accessible when the hood is up. Made a bracket (thanks Denee!) for the relays and routed the wires across the radiator to the right headlight. done with that part until I get the front clip on. Next is the dash area. Wires still exposed because I ran out of loom (I have used up 50 feet and still will need about 15 feet more.

[Denee007]

I'm just pleased that I actually was able offer something other than asking questions all the time! ; ). Slow progress is still moving forward; )
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[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Russel thanks, photo is exactly what I needed. Green as I under stand it the big wire on the back charges the battery thru the cable to the solenoid. The small is the exciter that turns the alt off and on. As Russel pointed out the red gauge wire is not used with the stock ammeter.

Orrie, Just to be clear:

"the red gauge wire is not used with the stock ammeter". This is referring to the jumper from the output terminal to tab 2. The white wire does what this jumper did by applying battery voltage to tab 2 , but only when the ignition is on. This doesn't have any thing to do with whether you are using the original amp gauge or not.

If you want your original amp gauge to be functional you run the red wire from the alternator output terminal through the amp gauge and then back to the connection point at the solonoid. This will require that you cut the wire and add slip-on terminals to connect it to the amp guage. The amp gauge has extra tabs to accomodate doing this. The terminals you add to the wire should be soldered.

[OrrieG]

That is what I was sort of trying to say, I have the 10 ga red wire hanging out of the dash cluster hole as a reminder. Your comments are always welcome, thanks.

[OrrieG]

Small victories, dome light, light switch and column wiring finished. I used angled female blade connectors that go up instead of the harness one that extends out about an inch. That should tuck all the wiring inside the column cover.

[Red Foreman]

Nice work there OrrieG, your getting me inspired to start on my wiring. I've had an American Autowire kit sitting here staring at me for the last 12 mths, still don't have the nerve to crack it open & make a start.

[Daze57]

Red Forman

i was the same way but crack it open -take your time lay it out 1 step at a time and you will do ok - its a real good kit - very userfriendly and the diagrams are in color - that does help alot - holla if ya ned help mate !

[Red Foreman]

Originally Posted by Daze57

Red Forman

i was the same way but crack it open -take your time lay it out 1 step at a time and you will do ok - its a real good kit - very userfriendly and the diagrams are in color - that does help alot - holla if ya ned help mate !

Thanks Daze57, Cheers!

[Kim57]

Nice and clean install.
Kim

[oldman3]

Looks good, like the 90* fittings...Jim

[OrrieG]

For clarity, here is a comparison photo of the dimmer connection. On the eldo column the dimmer is in the turn signal stalk, you pull toward you to toggle between low and high. You can see I had to trim the plastic around the connector too.

Another curious thing about the eldo column, at the bottom you can see two bare spade connections. They are for the auto door locks, when the transmission is taken out of Park the switch closes on and locks the doors on the eldo. Haven't figured what I could use it for. Other connnection down there is for the back up lights. Neutral safety switch is built into the column gutts.

[Daze57]

looks good !

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Red Foreman

Nice work there OrrieG, your getting me inspired to start on my wiring. I've had an American Autowire kit sitting here staring at me for the last 12 mths, still don't have the nerve to crack it open & make a start.

Daze is right, just take the time to organize and understand. Even with all my thought I forgot about the window washer bottle with motor I am going to install and now have to go back and fish another wire thru the front harness! I must have wired my truck every night for a month in my sleep. I also found that I started second guessing, trust the wiring directions and manf. intent, they have it figured out.

[OrrieG]

Bulbs arrived so instrument panel is wired and in. Finished up other minor stuff and done wiring for now until I do the head and taillights. Working on getting the column cover done.

[oldman3]

Looking good...Jim

[Denee007]

Gosh Orrie, that looks great!

[OrrieG]

Had few minutes so I located and cleaned the threads on the driver mirror nuts. Made a template and tranfered to the passenger door. After drilling noticed the factory backing was a little off (or they move the mirror back 3/8"). Threaded nuts onto the mirror screws and tacked them in place. got distracted welding the tail pipe brackets on the Chevelle. Also spent time figuring out what I need to finish the AC.

[_Ogre]

instr panel looks good orrieg, i had mine in and out so much i put spade connectors on all the wires.
fyi, i did the same with my mirrors and noticed the offset. i wonder if the pass mirror was moved back.

[Denee007]

Funny, I just noticed the other day my truck doesn't have the holes for a mirror on the passenger side. So that's what you were doing, making holes/bolt holes for a passenger side? But I don't remember seeing that brace/bracket inside my passenger door to weld something to. I'll be working on the passenger window more tomorrow and check it out. If there is something I can do, it will be before installing the window stuff permanently. However, I've gotten pretty good at taking the glass in and out and the regulator,etc.~!

[Kim57]

Nice job on the dash.
Kim

[OrrieG]

Orge, I think it might have to do with sight lines thru the vent vertical bar, but I am converting on one piece so that is not a problem. I put a 6 plug connector on the dash for all the wires except the ammeter ones. I also lengthend the oil and speedo lines. Don't plan on taking it out, mine fits really tight at the top.

Denee, yes I just drilled 5/16" holes (same size as the mirror screws). If you are not looking for it the extra metal for the backing it would not be obvioius. Good thing is you can hit the spot welds without affecting the outside metal or paint if you stay on the thicker part. Because the screws do not come with lock washers I will just use a little red loctite for final install.

[6BT 56]

Looken good ! it's nice when you get to bolt all the stuff you have in your shop on to the truck !!

Do you know what Speedo cable you used ? I have to cross that road soon.

Keep up the great work.

[OrrieG]

I used the stock cable at the Speedo end connected to an extension about 24" long off of the 74 K10. The 2wd trucks do not need it but 4wd relocates the Speedo drive from the Trans output housings to the xfer output housing.
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[6BT 56]

A extension ? Iv never really seen one . I guess Id better get doin some looken around .

24 in would do it .

Thanks