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#1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Rosenberg, Texas
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Okay, so as for updates, I removed the rear end and had it taken to get rebuilt. The shop is going to add a posi-traction unit, 3.73 gears, add a forged 1350 pinion yoke, and paint the entire housing. Parts should have arrived on Friday, or today, so I should get that back this week.
I haven't been able to do much because I've been sick with a damn cold that just wiped my energy after a very short amount of time. I'm about 90% now, so I'm hoping I can get back on it and get moving. I did manage to get my water pump heater hose fittings out and tapped for the A/C line type fittings. I'll be using the EZ Clip fittings for the heater hoses as well. Here's a pic of one A/C fitting next to the factory hose barb type fitting. ![]()
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) Last edited by knomadd; 07-14-2017 at 12:35 PM. |
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#2 |
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Location: Rosenberg, Texas
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Here's the pump with both fittings removed and the threads for the A/C fitting.
![]() It's currently off the engine and drying so I can put another coat of paint on it, after washing it out to make sure I don't get any metal shavings inside the engine. That wouldn't be good!
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) Last edited by knomadd; 07-14-2017 at 12:35 PM. |
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#3 | ||
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Quote:
Quote:
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
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#4 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Great idea and I think I'm going to steal it if you don't mind. Did the fittings come from vintage air? Do you have a part number?
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__________________ Mike 70 Med Olive build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=714804 Instagram- protouring66 |
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#5 | ||
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Quote:
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36033-MPA - Manifold Heater Fitting (stainless) Straight 1/2” NPT to #10 male O-ring 36032-MPA - Manifold Heater Fitting (stainless) Straight 3/8” NPT to #10 male O-ring Here's a tip: Just hit the stainless hose barb fitting a few times from different angles to work it loose and pull them from the pump. Once that's done, the hole should be large enough for the tap. Don't waste your money on the drill bits for the 1/2" tap. You'll need to drill the smaller hole a bit deeper for the 3/8" tap to go deep enough into the water pump. It gets difficult to turn the tap, so I bolted the pump back up to the block to tap it. I did tape off both the engine and water pump before I did this though. Oh, and make sure you don't already have the 3/8" & 1/2" NPT taps before you order more. I now have two sets. ![]()
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) Last edited by knomadd; 04-24-2017 at 12:46 PM. |
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#6 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Steal away! I actually got the idea from another forum, but they used AN fittings. These fittings are from Vintage Air, part numbers are:
36033-MPA - Manifold Heater Fitting (stainless) Straight 1/2” NPT to #10 male O-ring 36032-MPA - Manifold Heater Fitting (stainless) Straight 3/8” NPT to #10 male O-ring Here's a tip: Just hit the stainless hose barb fitting a few times from different angles to work it loose and pull them from the pump. Once that's done, the hole should be large enough for the tap. Don't waste your money on the drill bits for the 1/2" tap. You'll need to drill the smaller hole a bit deeper for the 3/8" tap to go deep enough into the water pump. It gets difficult to turn the tap, so I bolted the pump back up to the block to tap it. I did tape off both the engine and water pump before I did this though. Oh, and make sure you don't already have the 3/8" & 1/2" NPT taps before you order more. I now have two sets. ![]() Thank you very much..I was dreading using standard heater hose.
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#7 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Hose clamps... You can kind of see them in the pic in this post. This was when I had my small block in there, but it will be the same thing. It's too bad you can't get the valve with threaded fittings, but this works fine.
Edit: Oh, and I'm using #12 hose for the heater lines. I bought EZ Clip fittings with #10 threaded O-ring ends and #12 hose ends. They work well and fit over the heater control valve just fine.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) Last edited by knomadd; 04-24-2017 at 03:12 PM. |
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#8 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Great, thanks Duane!
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#9 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
OK, so small updates...
I got the rear end rebuilt. 3.73 Posi with a new forged 1350 pinion yoke... all painted up and ready to go in. (It's actually installed, but no pics of that yet). ![]() I also had a machinist friend of mine cut a 2 degree angle in my drop blocks to correct my pinion angle. I had about 5.5 degrees before pulling the rear end for the rebuild (measured on a not-flat surface). This should put me near 3 degrees of angle. I also cut the damn rivets off the track bar bracket (I HATE rivets!) so I could replace the factory bar with the Porterbuilt bar I've had for a couple years (damn, I'm not a fast paced worker!). With an air chisel, the heads came off okay, but I still couldn't get the rivet body out of the frame! Still had to drill them out. ![]() I started installing the carpet in the cab too. Got the under carpet padding / sound deadening material laid in place to help hide some of the wiring. The carpet is laid in there, but not finished yet... no pics (I know, I know, I'm slacking). And lastly, I got the fuel pump trim rings back and installed them and the pump in the tank. ![]()
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) Last edited by knomadd; 07-14-2017 at 12:36 PM. |
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#10 |
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Location: Houston, TX
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Great Progress Duane. Like the fuel cell pump install
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#11 |
A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Keep chipping away, looks good!
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-Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy |
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#12 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Keep chipping away, Duane. I sympathize about the rivets. Had the same problem with some of mine. There's always a few that refuse to give up.
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#13 |
Still Learning
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Oklahoma
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Very nice progress Duane! I need more info about your fuel tank setup. I am preparing to build my own tank and will need a similar pump and sender setup. Did you make that pump housing? What pump are you using? thanks
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#14 | ||
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Location: Rosenberg, Texas
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Thanks Mike.
Thanks Chris. Quote:
Quote:
The tank was purchased from Brothers Trucks years ago. It showed up with Performance Online stickers and instructions in it. If you go that route, buy it from Performance Online and save you the Brothers markup. It's already baffled, so it'll work well for the electric fuel pump setup. I had a friend of mine that owns a machine shop make the retaining rings. As for the pump, it's the pump out of the van my engine & trans came from. I did originally buy a pump and regulator from Tanks Inc, but I read somewhere the pump controls the flex-fuel ability. There isn't a fuel composition sensor in the van wiring, so I don't know how else it would be able to sense how much ethanol is in the fuel if it's not in the pump. I figured I'd run the stock pump to make sure it can determine the ethanol content and adjust the mixture accordingly. I don't plan on running e-85, but it would be nice to have the ability if I ever wanted too. It's mainly to compensate for the added ethanol in the colder months & climates.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) |
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#15 |
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Location: Rosenberg, Texas
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
On some progress notes...
I got the rear end, vent & track bar installed. ![]() I also mocked up the radiator and core support. ![]() I had to do some welding, grinding on the core support and cutting on the radiator. The radiator has tabs that are supposed to be in the retainers, but not one of them was in the right spot. This was the closest one, but it was in the way. ![]() Since they aren't needed, I just cut this one off. The others won't be seen, so they'll stay where they are. There aren't locating tabs like this on the factory radiator, so it's not a big deal.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) Last edited by knomadd; 07-14-2017 at 12:37 PM. |
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#16 |
A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
What did you use for the axle vent filter? Looks clean
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-Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy |
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#17 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
I can't take credit for it. Josh (randomco) did it on Old Olive. I asked him what he used and he sent me this link https://www.spectreperformance.com/m...lters-breather The filter is from Spectre. I just used a splice/union and a couple zip ties on the filter and it fit inside the old track bar bolt hole. I used fuel line to connect the tube in the rear end to the splice/union.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) |
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#18 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
I mentioned it earlier in a reply to Vic, but in case you guys don't read my replies to other comments, I've ordered a replacement trailing arm crossmember. I justified the purchase because the factory crossmember cannot take much more than the 3" driveshaft I had in it before and I want to go with a 4" aluminum shaft. That, and the plasma cutouts for the exhaust pass through is ROUGH (read: UGLY). I ordered the crossmember from Performance Online. It's a lot like the ECE crossmember, but it has multiple positions for the trailing arm mounts.
Anybody happen to know if that style of crossmember will be able to accept a 4" driveshaft?
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) |
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#19 | |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
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#20 | |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Quote:
The green piece is the o-ring gasket. The dark port is the fuel rail feed, the small white port is a vent, the large white is from the charcoal canister. The white parts are from the best I can determine. Since I'm not using the charcoal canister or the evap system, these will be blocked off. My tank has a roll over vent in it already.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) |
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#21 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
My crossmemeber showed up yesterday. I had to go get some dental work done yesterday so I didn't get anything done on the truck. My jaw is sore this morning, like they bruised me with that needle.
![]() The top of the crossmember is pinched, like they didn't use a jig to make it a smooth, wide curve as their pictures show on the website. I may need to cut the top and reshape it (sorry no pics, yet). Other than that, it looks like a nice piece. I think it's zinc coated or something because it appears like a shiny silver color, but not like a powder coating. It'll get painted anyway, but at least it's not raw steel.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) |
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#22 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Time to update... I did progress a little more. I got the core support body worked and sent to paint. Hopefully I'll get that back soon, or maybe after I get back from vacation.
![]() I've also got the old crossmember out ![]() ...and the new one painted ![]() This is a POL unit, which came with hardware. The instructions do not say anything about drilling, but the bolts that are supposed to hold the crossmember in are definitely too large to put into the stock rivet holes. I'll have to drill them out for the 1/2" bolts. I even tried buying 7/16" hardware, but it was still too big. The 3/8" hardware they sent for the trailing arm mounts are a bit too loose to use in the stock crossmember rivet holes, so I'll have to drill the holes larger anyway.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) Last edited by knomadd; 07-14-2017 at 12:38 PM. |
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#23 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Lastly, I installed the Dakota Digital air management pressure sensors in the valve block (and the tank). I'll have to relocate the computer since it was originally mounted where the sensors are, but I'm slowly getting closer.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) Last edited by knomadd; 07-14-2017 at 12:38 PM. |
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#24 |
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
I love the diff vent idea. I'll have to steal the idea.. that you stole. I don't think that cross member will take a 4 inch shaft. Mine wouldn't fit if it were any bigger at 3.5". I mean, it clears, but I'm 99 percent sure another 1/2" might rub. And that's on a static 6" drop spring, not bags.
And on the fuel tank...I did almost exactly the same thing on my 56. I bought an aluminum tank and my father in law made rings to mount a vortec pump. Truck has run flawless for years BUT when the tank is full fuel seeps out of the cork gasket he told me would work. Never caused issues but you can sure smell when I fill up. Hopefully you are using a proper rubber or O ring seal of some kind so you don't suffer the issue I've dealt with.
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#25 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Rosenberg, Texas
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Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10
Yep, I'm thinking the 4" shaft is out. Also, I am using the green rubber o ring seal.
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-Duane C/10 Club Texas member 1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project) 1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby) |
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