Make it handle

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Very clear thanks agian..

[Tony@AirRideTech]

Noted about the miss info on the web site.... thanks for busting my balls Rob..

Another note on locking diffs;
I have run a bunch of different brands of lockers on the streets and I can tell you for street driving and getting the best perfornace diff you can... the detroit Tru-Trac is the stuff. If you dont do a tru trac then use the Eaton Pro Posi.

[killerpickup]

Here are a few shots of my project.

[killerpickup]

Originally Posted by killerpickup

Here are a few shots of my project.

Stll trying to figure out pic inserting.

[hgs_notes]

This thread should be required reading for anyone that is wrenching on their truck, period. I have 2 questions, first on the spindles. Does he position of the the pin on the spindle change the effects of the caster? Not saying it changes caster, but will a dropped spindle and a stock spindle feel the same at an equal caster setting?

Second, rear track bars have been discussed, and where the front mount should be located in the vertical. What about moving the mounts outboard or inboard? Seems like wider would be more stable.

[hgs_notes]

One more question regarding rear sway bars, why not mount it through the frame rail? I've seen it done for off road and monster truck designs. Just have to use the kind with removable arms and weld in mounts in the frame rail.

[hotrod1]

HGS notes

Go here and look at the 2nd post down.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=412449&page=4

[chevyrestoguy]

I'm really interested in the low-buck caster mod to the lower control arm that was referenced earlier in this thread. Did it ever work?

I am a big believer in caster, and I am ready to do the spindle swap on my '64 (already swapped it over to a '79 suspension). I would really be interested in doing this mod while I've got it apart.

[BMERDOC]

Here is a question I was just asked and before I sit and ponder it I wanted to post it.

Does lowering the rear (leveling the truck) affect front caster in a "positive" way?

My initial thought is yes. It does affect the effective front caster towards more positive angle because as the rear is lowered the centerline of the front ball joints is turned back. My alignment machine asks for chassis angle so I figure it uses that to help calculate caster. I'm not sure by how much without doing the tests but if I visualize it correctly it would have a Positive effect on front camber.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Here is a question I was just asked and before I sit and ponder it I wanted to post it.

Does lowering the rear (leveling the truck) affect front caster in a "positive" way?

My initial thought is yes. It does affect the effective front caster towards more positive angle because as the rear is lowered the centerline of the front ball joints is turned back. My alignment machine asks for chassis angle so I figure it uses that to help calculate caster. I'm not sure by how much without doing the tests but if I visualize it correctly it would have a Positive effect on front camber.

Sure. You can get one or two degrees. Some Rally classes are famous for that trick, the have to use all stock arms and mounts, so you will see the front up 2" or 3" and the back down 2", for a net gain of 3 deg caster. - and some other bennies.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

I'm really interested in the low-buck caster mod to the lower control arm that was referenced earlier in this thread. Did it ever work?

I am a big believer in caster, and I am ready to do the spindle swap on my '64 (already swapped it over to a '79 suspension). I would really be interested in doing this mod while I've got it apart.

The modified arm, with the new ball joint socket, has been givin a torture test on the JT. they're still there. No problems, and works great. I know of two guys who have drilled a new dimple hole in the lower cross-shaft to move the arm forward an inch. This also requires a bit of grinding for clearance on the back of the crossmember. Both trucks are up and running and this also seams to work great.
Some manufacturers, like Ridetech, are talking about changing there A-arm fixtures to build more caster - This is a direct response to the Pro-Touring/Autocross movent to build better handling cars/trucks. Score one for the good guys.

[robnolimit]

HGSyes, a wider stance on the sway bar mounts is a plus, but you have to clear steering, suspension and tire movement. Also, as the bar itself gets wider, it has to be thicker/stiffer just to have the same spring rate as a narrow bar. Thru frame bars work great. As Hotrod1 showed. We helped him out with all the parts, but this is honestly not something the average guy is going to do. Hotrod1 definately is showing some skills.

[robnolimit]

we're just waiting for powder coat.

[67cheby]

my rear suspension consist of , PB 4 link and a KP watts link, i went with the watts link because i like the looks of it and how it keeps the rearend centered , is there any other benefits of the watts link ? and what would you recommend for a sway bar with this setup ? i would like to do the autocross course for fun next year at a couple of the GG events !

[robnolimit]

That all looks great! The watts does hold things perfectly centered, which makes things really smooth. Check with Nate, I think he has a rear bar. If not check out speedway engineering, use a bar thats about as wide as the 4 bar stance, and a 12" arm. Kugal has a bolt that is 5/8" x 3", with a 3/8" stud out the head for a sway bar mount.

[hotrod1]

Hey Rob:

That bolt sounds like the answer to my problem. I called Kugal and talked to Jeff and he was somewhat unsure. He said that he may have something like that with a 7/16 not a 3/8. Does this sound right? Made of stainless? They use it for their front suspension.

[67cheby]

so are you saying the bolt has an extra set of threads so you can use the same mount on the rearend for the swaybar ? not sure i am understanding this right ?

[hotrod1]

This may be hard to see, but look to the lowest point of the sway bar link hiem. You can see the bolt that bolts the top bar of the 4 link to the axle bracket has a smaller threaded part coming out of it that the link bolts to as well.

I would sure like to know where to get one in 3/8? Maybe have to go up to 7/16?

[67cheby]

too cool, i understand now...pictures , that i can understand ! LOL

[robnolimit]

That may have been the ones, 7/16" Also try TCI in ontario Ca, They have a similar bolt.

[hotrod1]

Hey Rob:

You were right. TCI has it. It is 5/8 x4 1/4 that steps down to a 3/8 for the swaybar heim. The part number is 113-1032 and they sell for $8 each.

[67cheby]

cool , thanks guys going to look into this !

[hotrod1]

Here is their build sheet to see it better.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...r_Sway_Bar.pdf

By the way, I would make sure to use Robs suggestion for the bar. He set me up and saved me a lot of time looking for the right solution. I am running a 1 1/4 hollow 3 piece nascar style bar. Nice stuff.

[robnolimit]

Yep, thats the bolt. I knew TCI was good for something. If you call them, ask for Evan.

[taank]

i recently orderd a rear bag kit from avs. its going to be a stock to 4 inch drop at various times. do i need to replace the panhard bar or do a shock relocate?